View Full Version : Cockpit remote won't work---and other electrical questions
03-05-2010, 01:15 AM
I should have posted this sooner in case this starts a large task.
Anyone have a detailed look at a 2005 LSV's wiring system? I have a fairly good understanding of a cars wiring, as I put a small system in my first car.
The thing is, my tower speakers quit working period. No power at all. And then the cockpit remote quit working as well.
What can I start checking? The only thing I looked at were the fuses under the dash. All were good.
03-05-2010, 01:28 AM
First check the battery.
Check the tower amp for power.
look on the back side of your deck and check to see if the blue wire with a barrell connector is connected. Some of tthe wires are stretched really tight and pop off.
Just make sure all the plugs in and around the deck are secure.
03-05-2010, 10:09 AM
If you have the Factory remote with the white puck.
It will have a harness all its own also.
Newty is correct check the Blue wire with a Red stripe and it will have a Male round connector pluged into the back of the deck.
Behind the Puck Remote is a wire harness. Yellow Red Black Blue/Red Strip
Red is Power
Yellow is Power
Black is Ground
Blue/Red is remote signal
There should be a White connector in the dash where all these wire connect, Power wires should be going to the switch on your dash for the stereo. Black is a common ground. The Blue/Red strip wire goes all the way back to the deck.
On the Deck side you will still see the Yellow Red Black wires coming out of the deck and this is the power. Red is switched power. Yellow is power all the time. Black is common ground. I'm not sure why the remote is powered separately but it is. The Blue/Red wire is strictly the interface line from the remote to the deck but both deck and remote require Red Yellow and Black wires to be connected. They can be connected to the same sources but they must be connected for the remote and deck to work.
03-05-2010, 01:58 PM
You can't start meaningful diagnosis until you've verified that your voltage level is good. As part of your supply side checks, verify that your positives and grounds are secure at the battery and battery switch (if applicable), especially after winter/summeration cycles.
The amplifiers get their main power from the battery via a fuse block or breaker and circumvent the helm buss/fuse block. So start at the tower amplifier with a multimeter and confirm good voltage at the main amplifier positive terminal and the remote trigger terminal when the source unit is on plus continuity on the amplifier ground terminal. Hopefully you'll discover that your equipment is good and that you've only got to replace an amplifier fuse or tighten/clean-up/secure a physical connection or two.
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