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2007 Outback V
03-22-2010, 01:10 AM
I'm getting supplies together to retrieve my boat from hibernation. This being my first inboard, I am nervous, but have decided to take on the task.

Had the local dealership winterize last fall........:mad: I still get angry when I think about that experience. For those that don't know, in short: boat was a mess, no respect what so ever, ski locker full of water and dirty shop towels, and to think I paid ~$350.

I have looked over Al's winterization procedure (awesome by the way), do I reverse it and put everything back together? Hope I found all the bolts that were scattered all over the floor? I know the impeller was not pulled (thanks to the dealership :rolleyes:), and I don't believe it was ever replace (boat has 40 hrs), so I will be ordering a new one. Dealership didn't change the oil either, so I will be doing that as well.

Any thing in particular I should know about or watch for? Anyone want to write up a summerization procedure for the " How to" section? Al, you out there? :D

DOCDRS
03-22-2010, 10:22 AM
They didn't change the oil? That is absolutely wrong unless maybe it had been changed within maybe 10 hours or 4 weeks prior which ever is less.
For summerization pretty much a reverse, but after winterization some of the nuts/screws may have been replaced so check them, and check fluid levels and battery charge (best you have had it at home on a maintainer),change impeller . I would put in water, warm engine up , check for leaks, watch engine temp to make sure proper coolant flow, then change oil and filter. Make sure there is a water strainer gasket , if you have a water strainer.
probably more but what i can think of now.

2007 Outback V
03-22-2010, 11:54 AM
Wondering if the garden hose will supply enough water to allow me to heat up the engine before I change the oil? If I use a system like this http://moomba.com/msgboard/showthread.php?t=9968

Or am I best off putting the boat in the lake?

mmandley
03-22-2010, 12:01 PM
Absolutely do not rev your engine with a Hose!!!

Hose attachments and fake a lakes are only good for idle. If you rev the engine more then a few seconds the impeller will suck the hose closed. Also as the engine revs the impeller will demand 5 or 6xs the water and your normal house cant provide that pressure and the engine will starve for water creating catastrophic damage.

To check your systems you can fake it or hose it like that and many of us do but if you want a true test of temps you have to take the boat out to a lake and preferably off the trailer. Keeping it on the trailer and putting her in gear can damage the trailer, or worse the boat will climb over the trailer front brace. You can leave it on the trailer and put the boat in neutral and rev the engine and it should warm up but it will depend on lake water temp, as truly the engine needs a load on it to warm up properly.

2007 Outback V
03-22-2010, 02:10 PM
Thanks for the info mmandley. I didn't think the fake a lake would allow the engine to warm up properly. Sorry if it was a dumb question, but like I said, this is my first inboard. I'll just take her down to the lake for a little ride. Maybe due the fake a lake prior to that just to make sure I'm not the guy who can't get his boat to start at the dock.

DOCDRS
03-22-2010, 02:34 PM
Your only warming the oil up so it makes it easier to remove it thru the quick oil drain. But as Mike says do not rev the engine if on a fake a lake or your hose......

2007 Outback V
03-22-2010, 05:26 PM
Your only warming the oil up so it makes it easier to remove it thru the quick oil drain. But as Mike says do not rev the engine if on a fake a lake or your hose......

That said, will the oil warm enough on fake lake?

DOCDRS
03-22-2010, 05:59 PM
yes , it makes it flow quicker thru the quick drain, thats all

byronkoz
03-22-2010, 07:48 PM
I installed one of these and it works great. I just let the boat run at around 1500 rpm for 10-15 minutes and the oil is warm enough to empty out quick.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DP7

jester
03-24-2010, 06:35 PM
sounds like you have everything down. Putting the boat back together is easy but just check all the bolts and screws.

If you have issues pulling the impeller then get an impeller puller. I had to fight with mine for about 15 hours then got an impeller puller and took me less then 2 min to get it out. Took more time to pull the cover open then pull the impeller.

Also i made a fake a lake with a clear hose that connects up to the transmission where the water line from the bottom of the boat connects. It is clear so i can see the water flow to make sure it is not sucking air or nothing.

cab13367
04-02-2010, 01:42 AM
I'm getting supplies together to retrieve my boat from hibernation. This being my first inboard, I am nervous, but have decided to take on the task.

Had the local dealership winterize last fall........:mad: I still get angry when I think about that experience. For those that don't know, in short: boat was a mess, no respect what so ever, ski locker full of water and dirty shop towels, and to think I paid ~$350.

I have looked over Al's winterization procedure (awesome by the way), do I reverse it and put everything back together? Hope I found all the bolts that were scattered all over the floor? I know the impeller was not pulled (thanks to the dealership :rolleyes:), and I don't believe it was ever replace (boat has 40 hrs), so I will be ordering a new one. Dealership didn't change the oil either, so I will be doing that as well.

Any thing in particular I should know about or watch for? Anyone want to write up a summerization procedure for the " How to" section? Al, you out there? :D

Yeah, I'm out here but don't have a lot of time unfortunately to spend on this forum, as much as I would like to.

Yes, basically put everything back together that you took out or took apart. Be sure to reconnect all the hoses and tighten the hose clamps. Put all the plugs back in that you took out (I like to put teflon tape on the plug threads). Then when you first back it in and start it up, open the engine cover and look around with a flash light while it's running and look for any water leaks. If you forgot to put a plug back or reconnect/tighten a hose, water will be shooting out. Be careful of the spinning belts and such as you are looking around. Don't forget to open the valve for the ballast intake.

I don't think the oil will get hot enough running the engine at idle using fake a lake in your drive way. Suggest you get it out on the water and drive her around a bit, then pull it out and change the oil in the boat ramp parking lot while the engine is still hot, unless you are lucky enough to live 5 minutes from the ramp.

Hope that helps.

Al

2007 Outback V
04-08-2010, 11:39 PM
Any problem with feeding the oil drain line out the drain hole in the boat to drain the oil? I see some opt to use a pump of some sort to get the oil out. Any particular reason?

DOCDRS
04-09-2010, 12:06 AM
No problem at all it just takes about 2 beers of time, maybe 3 for it to all drain out.

cab13367
04-09-2010, 01:19 AM
Any problem with feeding the oil drain line out the drain hole in the boat to drain the oil? I see some opt to use a pump of some sort to get the oil out. Any particular reason?

I tried that the first year I had the boat. I ran it in the driveway with Fake-A-Lake attached, at a fast idle for about 15 minutes, shut her off and immediately drained the oil. Took FOREVER - hours - and all the oil never did come out. I gave up after about two hours as it was getting dark. I think the problem is that running the engine at idle doesn't get it hot enough to flow freely, and there was not a lot of slope from the oil pan to exit point of the oil. So now I pump it out. Takes about 5-10 minutes so long as the oil is hot and it gets it all out.

2007 Outback V
04-09-2010, 11:18 PM
Ok, thanks for the info.

I picked up the parts for a fake-a-lake and a drill pump. Took me a LONG time to find the fittings to fit on the oil drain line......I think I have what I need. Hard to go from 3/8 fitting to garden hose. I am going to take cabs' advice, and run the boat on the water before I change the oil (gives me an excuse to go take the boat for a ride :D).

Looked for the recommended Pennzoil 15w-40 all night????? Ended up getting Rotella 15W-40. Is that ok.

cab13367
04-09-2010, 11:33 PM
Looked for the recommended Pennzoil 15w-40 all night????? Ended up getting Rotella 15W-40. Is that ok.

Yes, Rotella is ok. See post by engine nut of Indmar in the thread below:

http://moomba.com/msgboard/showthread.php?t=449&page=2&highlight=rotella

DOCDRS
04-09-2010, 11:35 PM
yes that oil is fine , it meets all indmars specifications, I've used it for over 10 yrs, no probs. The penzoil is a b#^&% to find.Makes me wonder why they even use it. I have heard that synthetic is good but not till after 100 hours. I change mine ever 50 hrs which is a far cry less than 1000000 miles the rotella diesel is rated for :)

pmoomba
05-16-2010, 02:43 PM
Just looking a quick sanity check. I got an 06 OBV last fall and had it winterized right away, and is my first boat and I'm more a computer guy than an engine guy so just making sure I don't do anything stupid.

I had it winterized out of state where I bought it and the place I went is now out of business, so trying to just figure out where to go to start. I have reason to believe that they would have just put everything back together except for the battery which I took out. I took it out of storage yesterday and am trying to assess if I'm ready to go.

I went through the winterization thread and was able to identify all of the plugs and hoses listed, and they are all plugged in or connected. I know that they changed the oil and filter in the fall, and I know the impeller was also changed in the fall right before I bought it.

Is there anything else that I might be missing, or is my next step to make a flush kit, and start her up at home? Then just check for leaks and make sure everything is good, and then I'm good to go? Is there something else I might be missing that would cause damage if I started it up on a flush kit?

Thanks

2007 Outback V
05-17-2010, 02:50 PM
Hmmmmm...? I'm bothered that all the water lines/plugs where in place after winterizing? I would think they should've been left out to allow any water left in the engine to expand w/o causing engine damage. What part of the woods are you from? Do you get freezing temps?

If everything is in place, you should be able to run the engine with fake-a-lake. Worst case, you turn the engine of if water starts squirting.

I'm no mechanic, hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge can chime in.

viking
05-17-2010, 03:05 PM
Hmmmmm...? I'm bothered that all the water lines/plugs where in place after winterizing? I would think they should've been left out to allow any water left in the engine to expand w/o causing engine damage. What part of the woods are you from? Do you get freezing temps?

If everything is in place, you should be able to run the engine with fake-a-lake. Worst case, you turn the engine of if water starts squirting.

I'm no mechanic, hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge can chime in.

My dealer winterized my boat last fall and replaced all the drain plugs and everything so it's ready to go in the spring. If running antifreeze method then I don't see why putting all the plugs back in place would be a problem?

cab13367
05-17-2010, 04:18 PM
Sounds like you are ready to go. Just check the engine oil level to be sure they didn't foget to fill it, attach the fake a lake, then start it up. Oh, I would check all the hose clamps to make sure they remembered to tighten them all. Then look all around with a flashlight to see if anything is leaking. You may get a slight drip thru the packing nut but other than that, there should be no water leaks anywhere.


Just looking a quick sanity check. I got an 06 OBV last fall and had it winterized right away, and is my first boat and I'm more a computer guy than an engine guy so just making sure I don't do anything stupid.

I had it winterized out of state where I bought it and the place I went is now out of business, so trying to just figure out where to go to start. I have reason to believe that they would have just put everything back together except for the battery which I took out. I took it out of storage yesterday and am trying to assess if I'm ready to go.

I went through the winterization thread and was able to identify all of the plugs and hoses listed, and they are all plugged in or connected. I know that they changed the oil and filter in the fall, and I know the impeller was also changed in the fall right before I bought it.

Is there anything else that I might be missing, or is my next step to make a flush kit, and start her up at home? Then just check for leaks and make sure everything is good, and then I'm good to go? Is there something else I might be missing that would cause damage if I started it up on a flush kit?

Thanks

2007 Outback V
05-17-2010, 05:06 PM
My dealer winterized my boat last fall and replaced all the drain plugs and everything so it's ready to go in the spring. If running antifreeze method then I don't see why putting all the plugs back in place would be a problem?

Agreed, sorry I didn't think about antifreeze at the time

pmoomba
05-22-2010, 12:10 PM
Thanks guys. Finally got a chance to get out there today to put the batteries back in and give my Franken-lake a shot. It started right up and everything looks great, starting to get excited for the first season.