View Full Version : Tower Plug in connections
06-14-2004, 05:41 PM
I am trying to wire a light bar on my new '04 Mobius LSV. Does anyone know of a source for the connector pins Moomba uses. There is empty space on the side with the stern light but I can't find any pins that small.
My dealer contacted Moomba but they sent a Supra wiring harness that cost $180.
Has anyone else wired in a light bar? How did you do it? I welcome any and all suggestions.
06-14-2004, 06:29 PM
I have the same problem. The dealer showed me the $180 wiring harness it comes with 2 switches and a 6 pin thru the hull connector. Not worth the $180 when all I need is the connector. If your light bar has front and back lights you may want to wire them seperate due to the current draw which is why you need the 6 pin connector 2 for the nav. light and 4 for the light bar
06-15-2004, 10:37 AM
I'm not sure I understand what you're saying. Granted I'm a little wiring challenged but I want to wire the lights to the empty Accessory switch on the dash. I do have the 4 back 2 front light bar but I thought I was wiring them separately from the stern light.
Can you "enlighten" me?
06-15-2004, 12:41 PM
The way I understand it is you want to wire your tower lights into the same switch as the mooring light, correct? And you are looking for the female end to go on the wire so you could connect it to the circuit board under the dash.
If this is what you want you could get it at any auto parts store. However if you want some other connector try Radio Shack, take a digital picture to show them what you are talking about. Chances are they would have something or will be able to tell you where to go.
06-15-2004, 01:38 PM
I get all of my wiring/switches from Waytek. www.waytekwire.com
I *think* they may OEM Moombas wiring. The connectors on my boat look exactly like whats in their catalog.
06-15-2004, 02:11 PM
I don't know if I can truly answer your question. However, I do have some input. I have wired a light bar. It has 7 lights on it. 3 front and 4 back. I did not put a connector in the wire at all. I do not remove my tower at this point, and decided I did not need a connector at this point. I may go back and put one in later. However, I did connect to the extra ACC switch on my dash. I ran into a problem with this. Since that switch has a built in breaker on it. That breaker, though I am not sure what size it is, was not large enough to carry the draw that my light bar put on it. The lights would come on, and within 15 to 20 seconds the breaker would trip, and the lights would go off. I had to use two seperate switches, which I mounted below the ignition switch under the dash.
I don't know that you will have this problem, but it is something to watch out for.
06-15-2004, 07:54 PM
You can use the switch on the dash to activate 30amp 12VDC relays and wire the lights to the relays. The switch on the dash is only rated at 20 AMPS and most light bars draw more current than that. If you wire the front and back lights to turn on seperate then you will need 4 wires for the light bar plus 2 wires for the existing light.
06-15-2004, 08:29 PM
The connector I'm looking for is a 6 pin thru the hull connector that will replace the existing 4 pin connector. I don't see them on the Waytec web site. The current 4 pin connector is mounted on the hull next to the front mount of the wakeboard tower.
06-16-2004, 01:00 PM
I am wiring the lights through a 30 amp relay to the exisiting switch on the dash. If I understand you correctly the switch on the dash won't handle 30 amps so I need to wire the front lights seperate from the rear facing lights? Then, like you I would be looking for a six wire plug?
08-04-2005, 11:38 PM
On my 04 XLV, I ran five lights total. Three forward facing and two rear facing. On my light bar/speaker system, I ran the wires down both sides of the tower. One side was for electrical, and one side was for speaker wires. I ran the wires out the bottom tube portion of the tower, just above the machined end that mounts to the fiberglass. I then ran the wires in a black plastic loom, and dropped it through the air vents on each side. I did not use any connectors, and did not have to drill through the fiberglass. I think it came out very sanitary. If you are not going to totally remove the tower from your boat, you will not need any quick disconnect plugs. If you only collapse your tower, the front foot portion of your tower should not move.
I do not know how to attach photos. If someone can teach me, I will post photos so you can decide if this system would work for you.
I ran the forward and rear lights on two seperate switches, both seperate from the navigational lights. This allows me to use only the navigation lights while entering a marina without blinding everyone else. The lights are very bright.
You should definately run the switches to a relay. It is relatively simple, and the relay should also have its own fuse. I ran with the Hella FF50, and their lights came with a easy to follow instructional on wiring the relay. Hope that helps.
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