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View Full Version : Please critique my ballast upgrade list (to order from wakemakers)



offaxis82
05-13-2010, 12:42 PM
The current set up:

2005 Mobius LSV
- single ballast bag in ski locker
- stock sprinkler valve setup

The plan is to add two 750lb bags in the rear lockers, ran on a separate thru-hull fill line, with two tsunami 800's (one for each bag) to fill and two to drain (one for each bag. Can you guys take a look at my parts list? I'm planning on ordering from wakemakers, so maybe jasonwm can chime in on this. I have tried calling the store but they don't pick up their phone.

2 - 750lb Fly High bags
4 - tsunami 800gph pumps
40' - 3/4" ballast hose
3 - ballast rocker switches (3rd one is just for consistency, put it all on one panel)
6 - 3/4" elbow quick release connectors
2 - 3/4" vented loop anti-siphon valves
3 - 3/4" thru-hull fitting - chrome
1 - 3/4" bronze thru-hull intake
1 - ball valve
2 - y-connectors - to join the overflow/vent line into the drain line
- lots of 3/4" hose clamps
- various 3/4" fittings to create the manifold ... I assume I can get these at a hardware store so won't be ordering from wakemakers?
2 - tubes marine adhesive

I know lots of people would recommend to swap out the sprinkler system on the ski locker while I'm at it, but this puts me at around $800 and I don't really have extra cash to throw at the ski locker upgrade if it seems to work just fine at the moment, I figure may as well leave that for another time...

JesseC
05-13-2010, 01:46 PM
My last order of the Quik Loks came from Flow Rite. They were a little cheaper.

I see you have 6 quick connect fittings, don't forget the ones that thread onto the bag, you will need 6 of those as well.

https://www.flow-rite.com/catalog/united-states/marine/3/4-fittings

Also, have you considered using a larger intake since you will be splitting it to two pumps? You may want to go 1" on the thru-hull intake and 1" valve. You could always reduce it right before each pump maximizing the flow to each pump.

cab13367
05-13-2010, 03:26 PM
I am in the middle of upgrading mine as well with minimizing cost a priority and here are my suggestions.

Go with a 1" instead of 3/4" thru hull for the two T800's to maximize the flow rate out of the pumps and so that if you decide to upgrade to the T1200 later on, you won't have to redo the intake.

You may have to put a tee on top of the intake then a ball valve off each tee then one T800 after each ball valve. I initially went thru hull then valve then tee but found that I was sitting too high and the pump was interfering with a motor mount. You'll have to look at your bilge area and assess this yourself.

Ditch the sprinkler valve and add a vented loop to the fill line to your front bag.

You should only need two 3/4" fittings for the drain line - you show three. You should already have one for your front sac.

One tube of marine adhesive is plenty. Use it only on the thru hulls. Use teflon tape and/or pipe dope for the various fittings in case you want to remove/rework them in the future.

JesseC
05-14-2010, 05:14 PM
I also went with ta 1" thru hull strainer, but I ditched the straight ball valve and ordere a 1" full port diverter valve. Diverter valves have three seperate inlets and the flow is 90 degrees. I just put a plug in the other port. When I put the strainer in, I had the same problem as Cab, I hit an engin mount. I wanted the valve to be on the strainer to keep the valve as close to the entry point as possible.

cab13367
05-14-2010, 05:33 PM
I also went with ta 1" thru hull strainer, but I ditched the straight ball valve and ordere a 1" full port diverter valve. Diverter valves have three seperate inlets and the flow is 90 degrees. I just put a plug in the other port. When I put the strainer in, I had the same problem as Cab, I hit an engin mount. I wanted the valve to be on the strainer to keep the valve as close to the entry point as possible.

Jesse,

I was trying to find a three way ball valve (a combination tee and ball valve) but I guess they don't make such an animal. The diverter valve would not work for me since I used both ends of the tee.

That's a good idea though to use diverter valve and cap off one end instead of using an elbow then a valve, especially when space is at a premium.

Al

JesseC
05-14-2010, 05:47 PM
Jesse,

I was trying to find a three way ball valve (a combination tee and ball valve) but I guess they don't make such an animal. The diverter valve would not work for me since I used both ends of the tee.

That's a good idea though to use diverter valve and cap off one end instead of using an elbow then a valve, especially when space is at a premium.

Al

I believe the diverter would work for you. Just thread the T into the front of the diverter valve and then thread the diverter valve to the thru hull. The T would end up being parallel to the bottom of the boat and you could mount both of your pumps horizontally one to each side of the T. This is the only method that worked for me so everything stayed low profile. The T actually ends up about half as high as it would if mounted to a ball valve and thru hull.

Here is a pic of my diverter , I only used a single outlet, but you could thread a T where I threaded the fitting.

The diverter is the one on the left, the one on the right was some 3/4 stock stuff. I put a threaded cap on the top outlet (cap is not in the photo, it was a white PVC threaded cap).

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q21/StarkRaven/1aNewScupper.jpg

offaxis82
06-25-2010, 02:48 PM
Just placed my order from wakemakers with the sweet Moomba discount code :D

Hopefully I can pull this off, I have been studying different ways of doing it for like a year now, haha...

Just curious, where did you guys put your switches? I only had one ballast switch on my control panel so I have to make a switch plate of some sort, what material do you guys use?

JesseC
06-25-2010, 11:41 PM
Just curious, where did you guys put your switches? I only had one ballast switch on my control panel so I have to make a switch plate of some sort, what material do you guys use?

I had the three stock switches and added a fourth one as well as moving all of the power from the switches to relays. The hole the factory cuts looks really rough, but it is behind their panel and is not noticable. I built my fourth switches panel out of ABS plastic. Here is the link to my install -->
http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/showthread.php?t=10483


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