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walb0244
06-15-2010, 05:47 PM
Trying to find 15W-40 Pennzoil Marine oil. Can't find it locally. Wondering what everyone else runs.

Also, do you replace the impellor every 100 hours no matter what? I just took the one out of my boat. The boat has 300 hours on it. From what I can tell the impellor has never been replaced. The impellor says Johnson 812 which is the OEM impellor also the screws were covered in paint and the paint broke loose when I took the cover off. So all in all it looked like it had never been touched. I'm replacing the impellor anyways but just was wondering if you guys replace them every 100 like says or just 1 a year. This one has 4 little tears in it but still has all the flaps and no pieces are missing.

thesack
06-15-2010, 05:53 PM
I'm using Mobile One Synthetic 5-30.

I just changed my impeller for the first time since I got the boat new 2 years ago. My impeller had 400 hours on it. It looked brand new still. I know the manual for the motor says to change it every year, but I would say it depends on how often you are using your boat and how feasable it is to suck things up into your impeller. I have a water strainer on mine.

brain_rinse
06-15-2010, 06:03 PM
There are several threads on recommended oil for these engines if you do some searching. In the end many go with Rotella 15-40 because it's cheap, easy to find, and meets all the performance specs.

As for impeller I would tend to favor replacing every 100 hours as cheap insurance. I suppose you could remove and inspect more frequently, but for the hassle I'd keep one decent spare and just replace every 100 hours regardless of condition.

moombadaze
06-15-2010, 06:22 PM
In the end many go with Rotella 15-40 because it's cheap, easy to find, and meets all the performance specs.

.

I'm one of the many for the reasons above cause I could not find the Pennzoil anymore-wallmart was the only one I could find it at but they dont carry it anymore.

sandm
06-15-2010, 08:21 PM
napa here doesn't. special order, or so I was told. no one in the valley sells it and dealers have it in some kind of drum.
I switched to mobile synth like thesack. several dealers here have said to switch around the 50hr mark once a good breakin is done. just remember if you go full synth, you shouldn't ever go back to regular oil..

walb0244
06-16-2010, 12:29 AM
I was just seeing. Was trying to find something that O'reilys would carry. Since I can get the oil there for about 40% off. I know they don't carry the pennzoil marine.

phospher
06-16-2010, 10:32 AM
if your not going to use a synthetic I would probably use a diesel oil.

K_E_N
06-18-2010, 02:52 PM
just remember if you go full synth, you shouldn't ever go back to regular oil..

Why? I've heard that before, just curious as to your reasoning.

phospher
06-18-2010, 03:24 PM
Why? I've heard that before, just curious as to your reasoning.


Yeah, that's not true anymore. You can switch back and forth all you want, you can even mix them together.

K_E_N
06-18-2010, 03:36 PM
Yeah, that's not true anymore. You can switch back and forth all you want, you can even mix them together.

I just like to hear people's reasoning on issues such as that. As a young man, working in my dad's auto garage, we had a particular customer who would have us change oil in his Toyota pick-up. He would always supply the oil, Texaco Haveline HD30, 10W40, AND (not or) 5W30, in vayring amounts, every oil change. His reasoning? He heard that multiple viscosity was better for engine life and he wanted to get all he could out of his truck. We never even attempted to explain that to him. We simply agreed, did what he asked, and got paid.

maxpower220
06-18-2010, 06:39 PM
Yeah, that's not true anymore. You can switch back and forth all you want, you can even mix them together.


Oh no, that's way wrong. See, the dynosaur juices have a chemical that doesn't react well to the synthetic man-made oil. Basically, without being too technical, the molecules that normally bond at 152 degrees C in synthetic oil will not attach to the free electron of the dyno oil. That reaction doesn't occur until 212 degrees C, which we all know doesn't occur in the Indmar engine unless your boat is at least 9000' in elevation on a standard day. It's all very scientific, you can read more about it on Wikapedia.

Now, none of this applies if you use Exxon or BP oil. See, they treat their oil with a saltwater compound. The sodium chloride additive has been shown to reduce the free radial electron's orbit around the photon enough to allow molecular adhesion at 174 degrees C, which is very acheivable in our boats.

The more you know.

phospher
06-19-2010, 01:49 AM
Oh no, that's way wrong. See, the dynosaur juices have a chemical that doesn't react well to the synthetic man-made oil. Basically, without being too technical, the molecules that normally bond at 152 degrees C in synthetic oil will not attach to the free electron of the dyno oil. That reaction doesn't occur until 212 degrees C, which we all know doesn't occur in the Indmar engine unless your boat is at least 9000' in elevation on a standard day. It's all very scientific, you can read more about it on Wikapedia.

Now, none of this applies if you use Exxon or BP oil. See, they treat their oil with a saltwater compound. The sodium chloride additive has been shown to reduce the free radial electron's orbit around the photon enough to allow molecular adhesion at 174 degrees C, which is very acheivable in our boats.

The more you know.


Your kidding right? I don't think any automobile engines ever reach 413 degrees. They even make blended oils that are both conventional and synthetic. Furthermore, I know people who run synthetic in winter and conventional in summer.


From valvolines site at: http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/full-synthetic-motor-oil/

Is it ok to switch back and forth between regular and synthetic motor oil? I heard this causes leaks? Is this true?

Switching between synthetic and conventional oil does not cause problems. Because the oils are compatible, you can switch back and forth as often as you like.


Also, just read something from an amsoil site: http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-change-and-filters.com/amsoil_articles/myths-of-synthetic-oils/


Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.

Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used untested ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synlubes to suffer a bum rap. Fortunately, those days are long gone.

Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.

maxpower220
06-19-2010, 10:28 AM
Your kidding right?

I have a twisted sense of humor and a lot of time on my hands.

BTW, this topic has been written before.....several times. Use the search function and I won't make my remarks that don't help,but serve to confuse.

Hoopskier
06-19-2010, 01:37 PM
I stick with Rotella 15w40. Inexpensive and easy to find at the local walmart. Meets the oil requirements. I just don't put enough hours on to justify switching to synthetic and the additional cost of synthetic.

walb0244
06-20-2010, 10:21 AM
Well I just put the Rotella in. Motor seems to be running pretty good with everything.