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View Full Version : Dripless Seal Replacement



DOCDRS
09-27-2010, 10:16 PM
seal $20-30 specify 1 1/8 or 1" oj props sells them and skidim
OJ complete dripless system is $125- 149 skidim maybe oj props



There are clamps that hold the red rubber boot to the boat , then clamps that the boot holds the seal housing to the shaft. These need to be tight. From the seal housing there is a blue hose that brings water from the exhaust mani to keep the seal water cooled/lubricated ,these clamps need to be tight. Then there is the seal in the white housing.
These 4 areas are sources of leaks, if its your seal it can be replaced.

-Undoing the 4 coupler bolts, mark your propshaft coupler and your v-drive couple so they are positioned the same when reassembling.

-Loosen coupler nut retaining set screw, remove coupler nut and coupler off prop shaft ( I have posted this before on how to). (Loosen the nylock nut off the coupler, but not all the way off the prop shaft threads, then insert a smaller nut or socket inside the nylock against the end of the propshaft so that it is protruding past the nylock and the coupler, then pull back against the drive shaft coupler and using 2 bolts tighten until propshaft coupler breaks free. (if driveshaft coupler has center opening you will need flat stock or lay another wrench across opening and use longer bolts to pull the 2 couplers together) tighten each nut about 1/8 of a turn at a time......this will act as a press to free the shaft coupler). You can add some heat with a torch to the brass coupler to expand and help free it as well.

-Loosen clamps on seal housing . Slide housing off shaft. Remove blue seal cover, remove inner C-clamp that holds seal inside seal housing and remove seal. Or you can just remove C-clamp and remove seal and leave housing in place.

-Now take 1200 wetdry sandpaper and make sure prop shaft end edges and key way are smooth so they won't cut new seal as it is slid back on shaft (there is also a protector that should come with your new seal that you can slide over the threaded end).
Also smooth shaft in area of seal to make sure there are no pits on the shaft
that may have caused failure.

-Remove cardboard ring that has kept double lip seal slightly expanded, oil shaft and slide on new seal , retaining clip and blue cover
and reassemble.

-Now check your alignment before bolting your couplers and adjust if necessary as this may be the cause of premature failure.


Seals should last about 400 hours before leaking.


http://skidim.blogspot.com/2008/10/oj-dripless-shaft-seal-installation.html

squeeg333
05-24-2011, 02:44 PM
Doc, question for you regarding this. I need to pull my prop shaft to replace the strut bushings (one is missing... not sure why that is). That's another story. I will be reinstalling the same dripless ahft seal, and am concerned that the seasl won't be 'slightly expanded' as it sounds they come from the factory with the cardboard tube... so my concern is re-installtion of the shaft and seal system wtihout this tube. Do you think that should be a concern, or just use a good amount of silicon lube or plumbers grease on the shaft when I install it.

Thanks for any info you can provide man.

PJ

DOCDRS
05-24-2011, 03:00 PM
You should be ok Just make sure there are no burrs on the shaft that could cut or damage the seal. You may want to take the seal and housing off the shaft in the boat rather than just pulling the shaft out of the seal so the coupler shaft threads don't damage the seal. Lots of lube as well. Did not have an issue when reinstalled my new shaft on old seal.

squeeg333
05-24-2011, 03:21 PM
Perfect, thanks Doc. I thought I would probably pull the seal off before pulling the shaft, just to protect from what you mention here. And I'll be sure to use lots of plumbers grease or silicon lube or something.

Thanks again man.