PDA

View Full Version : Complete Winterization Procedure '05 LSV



pfarmen
10-13-2010, 01:36 PM
2005 Moomba LSV Indmar 310 Assault Complete Winterization Procedure
(carbureted models)
Shopping List / Stuff you need
- 6 Quarts Penzoil 15W40 Marine oil (5.5 quarts required).
-or-
6 Quarts Rotella 15W40 Heavy duty oil is also acceptable.
- Penzoil PZ3, Fram PH30, Qaker Satate QS30, Purolator L20049, NAPA 1069
- 3 Gallons RV / Bio degradable antifreeze
- 1 Quart Penzoil SAE30 or equivalent (Walters Vdrive takes .5 quart)
- Marine fogging oil
- Sta-bil marine fuel treatment
- 2 Quarts Dexron III ATF (Dexron VI is backwards compatible)
- Fluid evacuator / extractor (if you need one). Must have hose to fit dip stick hole.
- Oil filter wrench.
- 5 gallon bucket
- 3.5 foot radiator hose (1.25 interior diameter). This hooks up to raw water intake.

Winterization Procedure
{With boat still in the water or at water level in the boatlift}

1. Use fluid extractor to remove transmission ATF (ZF Hurth). Cold engine is fine. There is a cover on the underside of the transmission which can be removed and a screen inside which can be cleaned. This is hard to get to. Fill transmission with up to 2 quarts ATF checking the level as you go.

2. Use fluid extractor to remove V-drive oil (suck out dip stick hole). Cold engine is fine. Fill reservoir from fill fitting (not dip stick). This should take quart Check level as as you go.

3. Run motor up to temperature (180 degrees) then shut motor off. Use fluid extractor to remove engine oil - running the hose down the dip stick.

4. Remove and replace the oil filter using the filter wrench. Smear some new oil on the rim of the new filter along the rubber gasket.

5. Fill oil with 5.5 quarts Penzoil 15W40 Marine oil. Rotella 15W40 works also. Check the level of the oil and make sure it is in the operating range.

6. Drive boat to launch and load on trailer. (bring RV antifreeze, 5 gal bucket and the 3.5 ft. radiator hose)

{After boat is out of the water and on trailer Engine should be hot}

7. Unscrew water strainer from water intake and clean screen and replace.

8. Remove the housing from the carburetor and air filter.

9. While engine is still hot, fill 5 gallon bucket with the RV antifreeze.
**Note If engine is not hot, you will need to run the boat with water in the bucket until engine comes up to temperature (180 degrees).

10. Remove hose from raw water intake and put the 3.5 ft. radiator hose on the raw water intake pump and insert the hose into the bucket.

11. With your fogging oil handy, start the motor and let the RV antifreeze be sucked into the motor. **Note it sucks it down fast. When there is about 4 of antifreeze left in the bucket, start spraying the fogging oil into the carburetor which should kill the engine by the time the antifreeze is gone.

12. Remove the front nut on the V-drive and drain. Remove the rear nut on the V-drive and drain. (Not sure if antifreeze is sucked into V-drive but it is water cooled. If so, this step is not necessary)

13. Remove your ballast bags, remove the ballast water strainer and clean the screen then replace the strainer. Drain ballast fill hoses (blow out lines), then run the pumps for a few seconds on empty to make sure the pumps are dry.

14. Add Sta-bil marine fuel stabilizer to your gas tank (use amount appropriate for the level of fuel in the tank).

15. Check air pressure in your trailer tires and top off if necessary. You are now ready to do the final cleaning and ready for winter layup.

lewisb13
10-13-2010, 01:42 PM
Great writeup. Interesting how some of the 05 models have TBI and some are carb.

Razzman
10-13-2010, 05:29 PM
Good writeup but a few things to remember here, first many lakes/rivers will not allow you to due this process on water due to environmental issues. If they catch you it's a fine so i'd check before hauling all your gear to the lake, many won't even allow it on property.

Second, the anti-freeze is not required to winterize but many in cold climes elect to do so where it freezes regularly.

Third, i would definately make sure you can remove the oil filter before getting there and finding out you can't! Many of us here have had to resort to drastic measures to remove it.

pfarmen
10-13-2010, 07:27 PM
Thanks for the feedback. The reason I did the oil changes in the water is b/c the engine sucks water from the bucket faster than the hose can deliver, so it is hard to get the engine up to temp without the boat in the water. You make a good point to check out the regs before doing it this way.

james yarosz
10-13-2010, 08:26 PM
Have you done this procedure before or is this the first year? Let us know if you have a cracked block in the spring.

pfarmen
10-14-2010, 03:47 PM
I did it this way last year and everything worked out perfect. No cracked block and we live in NY where it gets well below zero.

DOCDRS
10-14-2010, 07:32 PM
I strongly advise you to never suck the oil out thru the dipstick tube. First you will not get the same amount you will out the quick drain, and second you risk getting the plastic tube hung up on the end of the dipstick tube or worse something else......it does happen

DOCDRS
10-19-2010, 12:02 AM
Ok I just read your entire post .....you better drain your block or there is a good chance it will crack.....all that or most of the antifreeze went out your exhaust......the thermostat lets the water out of the engine when its too hot, so unless your reving it as you suck it up i doubt much of it ends up in your motor......drain your block and remove the jtube from the top of your thermostat housing and pour the 5 gallons into your block....now your set.......just trying to prevent a heafty bill next year

viking
10-19-2010, 12:08 PM
I'm confused :confused: I thought you WANT to get engine to operating temp before running antifreeze through?

DOCDRS
10-19-2010, 01:00 PM
The thermostat allows the hot water to exit the block and flow out thru hoses to the exhaust manifold and out the exhaust if the water in the block is greater than 160 or 180 depending on your thermostat. New cooling fluid enters the circulating pump from the impeller line across the tstat housing down the Jtube and into the circulating pump and into the engine.
Excess fluid will bypass the jtube and flow directly into the exhaust mani if the tstat is closed.

So you bring your engine up to temp, the tstat is open a little to maintain that temp, its not like your working the engine and its wide open to cool it as in 2-3-4-5000 rpm. You stop the engine to undo hose and stick in bucket and you think the tstat will be wide open and that antifreeze will flow all into your block? No way!! unless your block is screaming hot. jmo

viking
10-19-2010, 02:51 PM
agreed........but if you circulate the anti-freeze in a catch basin and let er run for 5-10 minutes I would suggest that the opening/closing of the tstat would allow enough anti-freeze to cycle through the block for winter protection - no?

I wouldn't trust sucking a few gallons of anti-freeze out and immediately shutting it off either which is what is referenced in the post as I go back and read it. Just got confused from your comments is all :)

DOCDRS
10-19-2010, 04:21 PM
agreed........but if you circulate the anti-freeze in a catch basin and let er run for 5-10 minutes I would suggest that the opening/closing of the tstat would allow enough anti-freeze to cycle through the block for winter protection - no?



yes definitely using a catch basin and cycling will work as long as the water to antifreeze dilution is ok for your climate your in. The cooling system capacity of our engines is prob around 3 gallons so if your using 3 gal of antifreeze you are diluting it 50 %