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ian ashton
03-07-2011, 12:28 PM
I've got a bunch of stuff on the way, and I can't wait to get started and back into boating season.

Here is my to-do list, so far:
Install transom LED (thanks again for the group buy newty!)
Install Exile interior speakers (thanks again Brian!)
Install new LED switches
Re-do Kicker Dual Zone Volume control and Sub volume knobs
More interior LEDs
Blue LEDs for guages

All of this stuff is either sitting here, or in the mail. Needless to say I've gone on a bit of a shopping spree this week, haha.


So, my plan is to use some nice push button switches to create a new switch panel in the area marked by the red box:
http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7196&stc=1&d=1297095590
Also on the list is to get rid of ^^that^^ depth sounder and get a round guage that also reads water temp, in the factory guage location.

The layout will be something like this (not to scale):
http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7198&stc=1&d=1297095590
I plan to make a template on paper with the proper spacing, then use it to drill pilot holes in the fiber glass for each individual switch/knob, then mounth each piece into the hull individually, rather than making a piece that will screw into the boat as one, I think this will look much cleaner. I'm also thinking that I'll switch out the Kicker knobs for something in Stainless or AL, to match the switches.

This is what the push button switches look like. I got 'em on eBay and they are coming from Hong Kong, so it will probably be a long wait, lol:
http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7197&stc=1&d=1297095590

If I'm able to sell my Kenwood Head Unit (http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/showthread.php?t=13962) I also plan to switch to an Alpine unit, as I like their remote with the LCD screen, and the option of having a wireless RF remote, and the 3 sets of 4V pre-outs.

sandm
03-07-2011, 12:43 PM
gave my boat a bunch of stereo love last year, so it's the trailer's turn this year :)

-new fulton winch
-new f2 jack
-new boat buckles
-new non-skid black matting(thinking about sea-dek)
-new guidepole covers
-new boat numbering

saskyrider
03-07-2011, 01:28 PM
Ok... here we go.

1. install stereo upgrade consisting of 4 SXT65's, 6 SX65C's, Harpoon 1K, Kenwood KMR-700U, Kicker Dual zone control, and build a new amp rack with wiring upgrades.

2. Install perfect Pass Stargazer

3. Install IBS system

4. Install Transon Led, (thanks Newty!!)

5. Install leds in boat purchased from Oznium

6. Install spare tire mount on trailer

7. Put at least 75 hours on the boat this summer enjoying all the hard work i put into it!!

ian ashton
03-07-2011, 01:51 PM
3. Install IBS system

I find that a night of drinking followed up with some Taco Bell will help with the initiation of IBS.



I also want to get a spare tire for my trailer, did you get the mount from BoatMate?

sandm
03-07-2011, 01:57 PM
got mine from boatmate. jerry is the bomb. came colormatched to the trailer and looks just like it was ordered from day one :)

jmvotto
03-07-2011, 02:02 PM
spring list

1. sea dek transom pad.
2. 4 port heater install ( going need the forums help)
3. New manifold and IBS ballast config. ( old sprinkler system, dual pump fill)
4. line hlcd's with dynamat

Maybe the transom led, but doubtful for this year.

mcdye
03-07-2011, 02:36 PM
1. seadek platform pad (0% complete)
2. 4 port heater (90% complete)
3. redo battery setup for more room (95% complete)
4. teaking spare platform (80% complete)

moombadaze
03-07-2011, 02:44 PM
projects for the year are done-ran out of mula :mad: Now I gotta start saving for summer gas prices and the summer vacation out of state.

projects were

cabin speakers
tower speakers
sub
amp
batt charger
tower lights


Time to enjoy it all now.

saskyrider
03-07-2011, 03:39 PM
I find that a night of drinking followed up with some Taco Bell will help with the initiation of IBS.



I also want to get a spare tire for my trailer, did you get the mount from BoatMate?

Nope i fabbed it up myself, i'm going to be sandblasting and redoing my whole trailer with the spray on box liner the local dodge dealer sells, i travel gravel 90% of the time and even with rockguards the trailer takes a beating. So it will get colour matched when the trailer gets done.

Hell i don't need the booze taco bell will do it all on its own!! lol or a night of draft beer and clamato juice..

moombadaze
03-07-2011, 05:18 PM
I think this may be the year I wash and wax my boat


you will as I have a gift from someone for you sitting on my dinning room table

ian ashton
03-07-2011, 05:27 PM
draft beer and clamato juice..

Silly Canadians...

moombadaze
03-07-2011, 05:48 PM
Nope, next guess

Razzman
03-07-2011, 05:51 PM
Getting ready to do the third incarnation of the stereo system. Since I already have the Exile SXT65's and Harpoon I'll be adding the following;

Exile Xi800.4 amp for the Polk MoMo cabins
Exile Xi1500.1 amp for the Exile sub & box
Third battery
Custom battery enclosure
Tower & cabin volume control
Upgrading main system power wire to 1/0 gauge
Tsunami voltage display distribution block
Maybe some additional LED work if funds permit

Just waiting on the weather to turn a bit :cool:

ian ashton
03-07-2011, 09:27 PM
The mailman dropped off a couple small packages today...

The blue LED lights for my guages;
http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7199&stc=1&d=1299547416
I tested one out with a 9V battery, and they are definately bright, I can't wait to get these in. A great looking, cheap and easy mod (for once!)

And something I forgot I ordered - Pin Switches for adding lights that turn on when you open the storage compartments (inspired by dusty2221 and KG's Supra 24). I ordered 4, but I've only really got plans for 2 of them.
http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7200&stc=1&d=1297128264
I'm going to use one for the LEDs behind the spotters seat, one for the LEDs under the sun pad (aka "ski locker" on the Outback), and I'm thinking I might try to work one into a glovebox light, although I'm not sure on that just yet.

harmsway
03-07-2011, 10:43 PM
Thoroughly cleaning the boat inside and out. Un-winterizing. Then finish putting the interior back together after the winter installs.
Which consisted of:
Tower speakers
Amplifier
HU
Driver remote
Depth finder
Tower lights
New OJ prop
4 new boards

viking
03-08-2011, 12:01 AM
And something I forgot I ordered - Pin Switches for adding lights that turn on when you open the storage compartments (inspired by dusty2221 and KG's Supra 24). I ordered 4, but I've only really got plans for 2 of them.
http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7200&stc=1&d=1297128264
I'm going to use one for the LEDs behind the spotters seat, one for the LEDs under the sun pad (aka "ski locker" on the Outback), and I'm thinking I might try to work one into a glovebox light, although I'm not sure on that just yet.

Ian, My goodies list is alot like yours. Where did you order these Pin Switches? Haven't looked for them as of yet and was thinking maybe Parts Express might have them?


Nope i fabbed it up myself, i'm going to be sandblasting and redoing my whole trailer with the spray on box liner the local dodge dealer sells, i travel gravel 90% of the time and even with rockguards the trailer takes a beating. So it will get colour matched when the trailer gets done.

Sasky - post some pictures of the trailer as you go will ya? Been thinking that would be a good mod especially where I live. Interested to see how it turns out!


I've got a bunch of stuff on the way, and I can't wait to get started and back into boating season.

Here is my to-do list, so far:
Install transom LED (thanks again for the group buy newty!)
Install new LED switches
interior LEDs
Blue LEDs for guages




Same Mods as Ian listed above (except RED).

Ian, where did you get the push button switches? Ebay? I ordered a couple rocker switches and planning on drilling them into that void as well. But I love the push style. Kinda like the keyless start buttons I've seen in the past.

I already have all the LEDs on the way, Transom LED (thanks Newty), non-skid pad for walk-through, dual zone control DONE, window tint and going to de-badge for this summer.

ian ashton
03-08-2011, 11:09 AM
Yep, on eBay. I sent ya the link :)

dusty2221
03-08-2011, 11:32 AM
Those switches are similiar to what we used, however, I'll tell you why we went a different style. That switch needs that nut on the front side for the front "mount" The thickness of that nut keeps the switch from being a near flushmount switch. The ones we used had a flat threaded faceplate, and I used nuts on the backside. Makesense?

ian ashton
03-08-2011, 01:05 PM
Those switches are similiar to what we used, however, I'll tell you why we went a different style. That switch needs that nut on the front side for the front "mount" The thickness of that nut keeps the switch from being a near flushmount switch. The ones we used had a flat threaded faceplate, and I used nuts on the backside. Makesense?

Yea, when I looked back at your pictures I noticed that yours are different than mine, and I like the way yours look much more. I might re-buy, this time from PartsExpress, or I might make a bracket and mount them from behind, with just the pin popping through a hole, I'll have to tinker with it and see what I can figure out.

dusty2221
03-08-2011, 01:08 PM
They are pretty easy to work with, I'm sure something like you suggested would be pretty easy to do.

PatL
03-08-2011, 01:32 PM
2 major items on my list:

1. Install Perfect Pass - I just ordered the basic RPM cruise system and plan to work on installation this weekend (will take some pics to share). We mainly slalom ski and with the adjustable Beede speedos this may fill the bill for me. If not I may add the Stargazer upgrade later this year.

2. Stereo upgrade - I replaced stock speakers with DB651s last year. Lookn to upgrade head unit and possibly add an amplifier. Not settled on which head unit yet. Priority for me is getting rid of CDs on the boat. Like the systems w/USB capability to use thumbdrive vs. Ipod I think.

mmandley
03-08-2011, 02:12 PM
Besides reinstall all my ballast system i removed for winter.

Have to reinstall most of the stereo.

New amp rack x2
New power distribution rack
New power distro block with LED V readout < like Razzmans i expect >
New Main fuse block for Amps
Install all new Tower speakers
Install new Xi 2500.1 amp
Finaly Mount the sub to the floor < never did last year as i had to keep removing it to work on something >
Rewire Depth Finder / Temp gauge
Replumb Ballast system with additional pump
Add Second drain pump and outlet for IBS bag
Replacing Windshield tint
Repainting Windshield framming. < Newty is helping >
Build a wake board rack for the bed of my truck < got the idea from another member on here last year just never got to it >
Install my FAE system once we get the new garage as it wont fit in my current one if i install it.
Once new house is built and we move in i have to make board racks for the wall
Making a rack to hold the swim platform

I think that is it for this spring.

kaneboats
03-08-2011, 03:18 PM
You guys are pretty ambitious. I changed out the impeller when I did my spring service; added 2 Exile SXT65's and an older Exile 600 amp for the tower; and added a Perko switch and a second battery. I think that's going to be it this year.

saskyrider
03-08-2011, 03:32 PM
Silly Canadians...



Lol... best hangover cure ever!!

rdlangston13
03-08-2011, 04:33 PM
my spring to do list consist of my entire exile upgrade which will begin in ONE week! im sure alot of you have been anxious to see this...and if not i dont care. ive been anxious to get it done

brain_rinse
03-08-2011, 04:49 PM
I had a big to-do list but I narrowed it down since it's already March...

Install Exile sub enclosure & new sub (just waiting on new enclosure, first one got busted up in shipping.)
Install Alpine m1000 amp to power new sub
Replace all spa hose with ballast hose
Wetsand a few board dings on the transom and polish the whole boat
Repaint lower windshield frame and somehow secure those stupid snaps

squeeg333
03-08-2011, 04:58 PM
Brain, please keep us in the loop as to how you go about securing those snaps. Them moving around and scratching the thin layer of paint off the window frame is bugging me. Not enough yet to make me remove the entire frame and re-paint, but, if I don't get them secured, it'll get to that point!!

My only mod for this summer is going to be istalling an IBS, and upgrading my rear sacks to 750's. If anyone knows of someone looking to sell just ONE 750 sack, let me know! :D

Oh, yeh, maybe install better speaker wire for my tower speakers, and clean up my modest stereo mod that I did last summer.

The list will grow, I'm sure... though with baby #1 on the way, funds are going to get tight!!

Razzman
03-08-2011, 05:11 PM
New Main fuse block for Amp


Mike you won't need a fuse block, the Tsunami LED distro is also a fused block for each output lead, it uses ANL fuses up to 200a. :D

ian ashton
03-08-2011, 06:08 PM
though with baby #1 on the way, funds are going to get tight!!

Congrats! I just bought a ring, so I'm trying to get as much done now as I can, haha!

Canuckle Head
03-08-2011, 06:11 PM
Install new Ballast System with reversible pumps
Install Interior LED lighting into the cup holders (Ian Ashton style) and LED speaker rings for the cabin speakers
Install New Polk Audio speakers
Install 3 Transom lights

Once these are complete I'll probably move on to upgrading the stereo system.

ian ashton
03-08-2011, 06:14 PM
Not a modification, but this just arrived (another thing I forgot that I ordered, lol) I can't wait to test it out!

http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7201&stc=1&d=1299622424

sandm
03-08-2011, 06:21 PM
ian,

you'll love that stuff. does take some effort, but works amazing. you won't be able to do a small spot. once you do, it'll stand out to do the whole interior :) don't forget that you need to protect after you do it. I like babes cause it smells amazing..

newty
03-08-2011, 06:37 PM
I had a big to-do list but I narrowed it down since it's already March...

Install Exile sub enclosure & new sub (just waiting on new enclosure, first one got busted up in shipping.)
Install Alpine m1000 amp to power new sub
Replace all spa hose with ballast hose
Wetsand a few board dings on the transom and polish the whole boat
Repaint lower windshield frame and somehow secure those stupid snaps


Brain, please keep us in the loop as to how you go about securing those snaps. Them moving around and scratching the thin layer of paint off the window frame is bugging me. Not enough yet to make me remove the entire frame and re-paint, but, if I don't get them secured, it'll get to that point!!

My only mod for this summer is going to be istalling an IBS, and upgrading my rear sacks to 750's. If anyone knows of someone looking to sell just ONE 750 sack, let me know! :D

Oh, yeh, maybe install better speaker wire for my tower speakers, and clean up my modest stereo mod that I did last summer.

The list will grow, I'm sure... though with baby #1 on the way, funds are going to get tight!!

When I repainted my windshield last year I was determined not to let those stoopid snaps scratch up the frame again. Heres what I did:
1. Having removed all the snap clips and painting the frames, I laid the cover over the boat.
2. I used the velcro on the bow cover to hold the front in place, and I loosely attatched the straps on the back of the cover to keep it in place.
3. I made sure the cover was perfectly centered and the cover was laying right where it was supposed to be.
4. One at a time I reinstalled the snaps right under the cover snaps and snapped them in place.
5. I then tightened the rear cover straps down.
6. One at a time I went back and unsnapped, and squirted superglue through the middle of the snap clip, making sure not to get glue on the snap itself, but also ensuring that the glue was starting to seep out from under the clip.
7. Snapped it together and moved to the new snap.
8. Although overlooked it is often the most important step in any boat mod... You must have a cold beer and admire your work while it dries.:cool:

I ran all season with no issues and no scratched frames, and I tow with my snap covers all the time.
Super easy fix and a cure to scratched frames. I wish I had done it when it was new.


As for my Mods this year,
Going to the 3 pump 1" ballast
4 SXT65's to complement the tower
Dumping the two kicker 10" and shoehorning 2 JL 12W6's in there somewhere.
Delete carpet add seadek, Hydroturf, Nuteak. This is going to take some work but I think I'll be much happier in the long run.
I'd like to do some LED's in the Z-5.

sandm
03-08-2011, 07:12 PM
speak from experience.. 1-12w6 will rock your boat :)

ian ashton
03-08-2011, 07:33 PM
Delete carpet add seadek, Hydroturf, Nuteak. This is going to take some work but I think I'll be much happier in the long run.

I would LOVE to do this. Let me know what you do and how you buy; if you need someone to go in on it and get a "bulk" rate I'm game!

newty
03-08-2011, 08:23 PM
speak from experience.. 1-12w6 will rock your boat :)

Then two should be perfect!:p


I would LOVE to do this. Let me know what you do and how you buy; if you need someone to go in on it and get a "bulk" rate I'm game!

Ian, yours would be easy with the 1 piece floor. I'll keep you posted on sheet size availability.

PatL
03-08-2011, 08:44 PM
The more I read this string...the more I see a stereo upgrade in my future...Alot of great ideas.

moombadaze
03-09-2011, 08:11 AM
Deleat carpet add seadek, Hydroturf, Nuteak. This is going to take some work but I think I'll be much happier in the long run.



Now that will be something

newty
03-09-2011, 10:21 AM
Now that will be something

Now if I could quit talking about it and just do it... I've been threatening to do it for 2 years now.

brain_rinse
03-09-2011, 10:48 AM
That would be a fantastic upgrade... have you estimated the cost? How will you deal with the removeable panels? Maybe you could get Seadek to make a kit using your boat as a template.

moombadaze
03-09-2011, 10:48 AM
and Ive been waiting for 2 yrs for you to get off your lazy butt and get it done. HA.

kaneboats
03-09-2011, 11:34 AM
Yeah, Ryan, quit dragging your feet and do some mods to your boat already. :)

newty
03-09-2011, 01:32 PM
Just giving you guys some time to catch up. I after my display of mad skills with a sewing machine and the "broady knob" install, I could tell by the increasing jealousy on the boards, you guys weren't ready for more mods just yet. LOL:p!

Oh yea... I'll be doing a gel coat repair that I'll document coming up soon as well.

Had a little boo boo with the swim step and grab rail.:(

Note to self... don't depend on your (mildly intoxicated deep in thought) friends to guide you into to the garage.

kaneboats
03-09-2011, 02:55 PM
No excuses necessary for me. I'm the one who knocked the garage door off the track with an open locker door.

moombadaze
03-09-2011, 03:29 PM
same here, door is still bent and the sundeck was bent up about 6"-but that boat is sold and gone

squeeg333
03-09-2011, 03:30 PM
Congrats! I just bought a ring, so I'm trying to get as much done now as I can, haha!

Congrats to you man! One word of advice is buy your toys now! Luckily you already have the boat, so you're a few steps ahead of the game! I bought my truck as a pre-wedding present to myself... before she could say no.

And thanks man, we're excited to say the least. It'll be a life changer for us, but I'll make sure to get the little bugger on a board as soon as I can.

jmondl
03-09-2011, 11:57 PM
Delete carpet add seadek, Hydroturf, Nuteak. This is going to take some work but I think I'll be much happier in the long run.


This is definitely of interest to me. I have thought about doing this since I took possession of my 2010 Outback. I am waiting for the carpet to become a little more worn, and maybe wait for someone else to do it first. I had a Glastron with no carpet, and that part of the boat was fantastic.

PatL
03-10-2011, 08:55 AM
Originally Posted by newty
Oh yea... I'll be doing a gel coat repair that I'll document coming up soon as well.Had a little boo boo with the swim step and grab rail.

Newty...I have a gel coat repair to do as well. I got in a disagreement with a dock over who had the right of way and I lost. Just wanted to pass along that at least for 2005 Spectrum Gel Coat was the supplier and I got a very cool color matched repair kit for the platinum base color on my 2005 Outback. I got the kit last season but plan to start working on it soon. I think there is a string out here somewhere with Spectrum's number.

ian ashton
03-10-2011, 11:16 AM
I am waiting for the carpet to become a little more worn

Give it a minute, lol. The carpet in my '08 looked pretty rough at the end of 1 season (100 hours), and I am finatical about cleaning and vacuuming it. I would say that is the biggest flaw in our boats, the carpet is too light, and not removeable. For '11 I think they offer a darker carpet, but I haven't seen it in person to compare.

mmandley
03-11-2011, 09:48 PM
The carpet in the 2011 is a little different style. Its harder because its kinda already mashed down. So i expect the wear to not show as much. I dindt get to walk barefoot on it but to the touch its stiffer.

newty
03-13-2011, 04:26 PM
I pulled the carpet yesterday and laid all the panels back in place. I assumed that there would be some spacing issues because of the carpet missing seams. I figured I would have to bulk up the panels to fill the gaps because they would now be exposed. Holy crap when I laid the panels back in, there were up to 1" gaps everywhere. The floor gaps aren't straight, and the panels don't lay flat in place. the carpet really fudges and hides a tone of imperfections in the floor. EVA is just not going to be doable. Looks like I'll be going back to new carpet with a sacrificial inlay of more carpet to protect it.

I'll post pics of the step by step when I get it all done. In the mean time I'm going to be ordering more carpet.

This would be a very easy job for you guys with the 08 and older outbacks, but with the multiple panels in the floor in the LSV its just not going to work.

viking
03-13-2011, 04:42 PM
hey newty,
thanks for the update but that is TOO BAD that it's not going to work. I was really looking forward to what you came up with as far as finished product :(

I guess there really was no other way to find out other than dig into it like you did? Unless you'd have been there every step of the way during the build and/or know exactly how they put these boats together.

Razzman
03-13-2011, 04:55 PM
I pulled the carpet yesterday and laid all the panels back in place. I assumed that there would be some spacing issues because of the carpet missing seams. I figured I would have to bulk up the panels to fill the gaps because they would now be exposed. Holy crap when I laid the panels back in, there were up to 1" gaps everywhere. The floor gaps aren't straight, and the panels don't lay flat in place. the carpet really fudges and hides a tone of imperfections in the floor. EVA is just not going to be doable. Looks like I'll be going back to new carpet with a sacrificial inlay of more carpet to protect it.

I'll post pics of the step by step when I get it all done. In the mean time I'm going to be ordering more carpet.

This would be a very easy job for you guys with the 08 and older outbacks, but with the multiple panels in the floor in the LSV its just not going to work.

A bit of advice from experience, go with a tight weave berber carpet. May not look as plush but it will hold way better than a pile carpet. The carpet overlay from Matworks I have it a tight weave, rubber backed Berber and it looks as good beginning of year to end. The only drawback to it is it's harder to deep clean but i use a carpet shampoo'er on it.

ian ashton
03-16-2011, 05:24 PM
My push buttons came in, and I love 'em! They are a touch smaller than I thought they'd be, but that actually works out good for what I am thinking.

http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7241&stc=1&d=1300307051

tazz3069
04-02-2011, 07:20 PM
I removed the pin for the center locker and added the same type of lock to the door that the engine cover has. Now this way, the center locker door does not pop up when the bag is full. Now no one can complain that they are stubbing their toes. I will post pictures later.

E4NASH
04-08-2011, 11:57 AM
Eventhough I just got my boat I have already started on a project list.

1. Integrated Ski Locker Ballast (Complete)

2. Replace headunit with Kenwood KMR440U (Waiting on arrival)

3. Replace 4 factory cabin Speakers with new Polk DB651's, bow already had them. (Complete)

4. SeaDek pad (Ordered)

5. New Amp Rack

6. Subwoofer install

deafgoose
04-08-2011, 12:23 PM
My spring project will be scratch removal.

I purchased all new OEM hull stickers and plan to remove my original stickers to buff out all the scratches in my gelcoat.

- Porter Cable 7424XP with yellow, black and while 6.5" Pads
- Wetsand Paper
- 3M Marine Rubbing Compound
- 3M Marine Finesse-It II Glaze
- Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze

bergermaister
04-08-2011, 02:20 PM
I've finally started just in the last week here:

1) Move batteries from stern to front passenger compartment *in progress*
2) Upgrade Tower Amp *in progress*
3) Upgrade(?) Cabin Speakers *in progress*
4) Redo front of sub enclosure
5) Complete ballast system overhaul - 1100 bags in rear both sides, 750 in belly, T1200 pumps filling and draining everything, all new switches/wiring
6) New cover, possibly rear deck upholstery redone/repaired
7) New trailer tires & spare tire mount
8) New skid steps on trailer
10) New guide bunk pads
11) Small trailer fender dent repair
12) Add more LED accent lighting
13) iPod Nano touch mounted by driver stereo remote
14) General cleanup and tightening anything with a screw, nut or bolt on it
And probably a few more little things I've forgotten about.

I'd already be done if only I had a heated garage to work in! Going to be an expensive year... :(

New Guy
04-13-2011, 05:29 PM
Perfect Pass Wakeboard Pro (just arrived)

Rewire amps / tower speakers (75% complete)

3rd Battery (done)

All new ballast 3-1200 fill stock drains, 750's in rear lockers. (50%)

Swivel seat (done)

Full service.

bergermaister
04-13-2011, 05:46 PM
You forgot one - installing the Polk MM651's in your cabin... :p

ian ashton
04-21-2011, 07:27 PM
Slowly but surely I'm checking things off the list. I guess its a good thing that the weather is so bad here in Michigan - we've only had the boat out once this season - more time for projects!

Anyway, I've got all the Exile speakers in, and LED's wired up. The other night I bit the bullet and ordered a Lowrance LST-3800 depth/temp gauge, and a Kenwood 107MR remote, and they both arrived yesterday!

http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7549&stc=1&d=1303424590

So, I popped the gauge into where the factory "blank" was;
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7550&stc=1&d=1303424631

http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7551&stc=1&d=1303424646

I'm still waiting for the transducer and temp sending unit to arrive, so its not functional yet, but I wanted to see how it looks. So far this is the closest to a 'factory' look that I've come across that does dept and temperature, and it was fairly inexpensive.

I need to get a rotozip or something to do the install of the 107MR, I'm not super excited about cutting a large hole in the boat (seems like a pretty permanent modification for something electronic, that I seem to change / upgrade frequently, lol) but I guess I don't really have a reason to change after this is in, the MR440U and 107MR do everything I want, so I should be good for at least a few weeks, lol.

viking
04-21-2011, 07:34 PM
Ian,
Is that a "stretch-n-slide" dockline in the bow? I've got a couple of those and they are the cat's meow.

Looking good on the upgrades. I can relate to the "good for a few weeks" comment.

ian ashton
04-21-2011, 07:45 PM
No, thats actually my wire stripper/crimper. I don't have any 'strech-n-slide' lines - I keep the boat in a marina and have pre-tied lines that I leave on the boat slip, so I just pull up and pop the rope through the cleats. All my ropes, fenders, throwables, and other thingamajigs are blue, to match the boat ;)

bergermaister
04-22-2011, 09:01 PM
And I had friends/family regularly pitching me crap about having a yellow rope/handle, yellow anchor buddy and yellow buoy, yellow beach line, yellow on my board shorts, yellow lifejackets,... What do you expect - the boat's YELLOW!

(And that way I know that any yellow stuff left laying around is most likely mine.) :cool:

ian ashton
04-24-2011, 09:33 AM
I figured that it would be a good idea to get the Kenwood 107MR installed before I did the interior cleanup, since it has been my experience that cutting fiberglass is pretty messy, lol. I started by removing the current Kenwood Marine remote;

http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7564&stc=1&d=1303648100

Next I was liberal with the masking tape, and place the cutout template;
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7565&stc=1&d=1303648100

I ran up to Home Depot and picked up a RotoZip DR1, which is meant for Drywall, but its a 30,000 RPM rotary tool, so I figured it would work - I was right! This thing chopped through the fiberglass like a hot knife through butter. I just used the provided bit (didn't even have to break into the extra bits I bought, which surprised me!)
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7566&stc=1&d=1303648100

A nice flush mount:
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7567&stc=1&d=1303648100

ian ashton
04-24-2011, 09:38 AM
I also decided that I would re-purpose the old remote up to the bow (I can't remember who I stole this idea from, but I know it was someone on here)

http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7568&stc=1&d=1303648534
(Don't judge the nasty interior - this was pre-cleaning! I have since Malco'd it, and it looks awesome)
I haven't wired it yet, but thats not too hard, just gotta tape back into the same wires I cut to remove it.



Not sure if I posted these, but here is how I did the LEDs for the tower (which are also only partially wired, and thus don't work yet, lol) Basically the same way I did the Exile inboat spekers, just with the larger LED strips;
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7569&stc=1&d=1303648629

http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7570&stc=1&d=1303648629

mmandley
04-24-2011, 10:54 AM
Looks really nice Ian you will love that remote man i got the same one and i like it a lot. The only thing to get used to is if the Deck buttons get pushed and its not on the home screen there is no way to fix that from the remote and the remote will act like it doesnt work.

Other then that its an awesome remote, easy to see in the sunlight and the buttons work well.

Only thing i would want different is the volume is slow to go up and down, as you have to push on it a lot or hold it for a few seconds to get the tunes up and down, the Mute feature works great but only mutes your system to like 15%

viking
04-24-2011, 01:39 PM
I like that remote and looks good flush mounted right there! Nice work!

sandm
04-24-2011, 02:08 PM
looks good ian. I like the look of the depthfinder. not an exact, but really looks like a factory option.

ian ashton
04-24-2011, 03:30 PM
Exactly my thoughts. If the factory gauge did water temp I would have gotten it.

viking
04-24-2011, 04:58 PM
Exactly my thoughts. If the factory gauge did water temp I would have gotten it.

That's my only complaint. Wish I would have searched around a bit more before putting the factory unit in.

ian ashton
04-24-2011, 09:01 PM
This was one of the cheapest things I've done to the boat yet, and yet one of the things I am most excited about.

I feel like if there is a varying degree of "slop" in the swim platform, mine would have been on the 'worse' end of things. At the very least, its annoying as hell.

Before Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6gXetJpjeI


So, I figured if I could put a few set screws into the bracket, it would at least reduce the rattle a little.

A blank slate:
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7578&stc=1&d=1303689419

So, I just drilled and tapped a 3/8-16 hole about mid-way on the inboard side of the platform bracket. I actually bought Stainless Steel allen bolts for this application, but I couldn't find the correct size wrench, so for testing it out I used a few spare Zinc plated bolts I had laying around. I'll swap in the allens once I get the correct wrench:
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7579&stc=1&d=1303689419

http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7580&stc=1&d=1303689419

...and the verdict: NO MORE SLOP! It didn't just reduce the sloppy clunking, it completely eliminated it! I'm so happy, I can't wait to get it in the water and see if its a permanent fix, or if I'll need some more tweaking.

Question: Does anyone know how I can get that oxidization off the platform brackets? I've tried everything, and nothing seems to work...

kaneboats
04-25-2011, 10:50 AM
Ian, I think this is good enough to copy and paste up a HOW TO. Nice work!

Razzman
04-25-2011, 12:47 PM
So which transducer did you go with to get the water temp, thru hull I'm assuming?

ian ashton
04-25-2011, 02:19 PM
I ordered a Lowrance PDRT-WSU - I believe the depth transducer is a 'shoot thru hull' and the water temp sensor is a drill thru hull. They are slated to arrive this week, so I'll post up my progress on that project when they do :)

ian ashton
04-25-2011, 02:22 PM
Ian, I think this is good enough to copy and paste up a HOW TO. Nice work!

Good idea! Done:
http://moomba.com/msgboard/showthread.php?p=134767#post134767

kaneboats
04-25-2011, 02:36 PM
Perfect! Thanks!

moombadaze
04-25-2011, 08:05 PM
ideas always show up after I do something. thats it. no more mods for me

mmandley
04-25-2011, 08:33 PM
I liek the idea Ian, i have the same slop but its pretty small compared to what you had in your video.

Did you take the brackets off to drill and tap?

ian ashton
04-25-2011, 09:16 PM
I liek the idea Ian, i have the same slop but its pretty small compared to what you had in your video.

Did you take the brackets off to drill and tap?

Nope, I just took the platform off and used a hand drill and threaded the tap in with a wrench. The whole process took about 10 minutes.

ian ashton
05-02-2011, 02:23 PM
The new dash lights and depth/temp gauge in the dark:
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7609&stc=1&d=1304356963
The gauge has a white back light with black letter/numbers, but they apparently don't show up in photographs.

ian ashton
05-06-2011, 11:51 AM
Took the boat out for the first time with the new depth/temp gauge, and I must say, I absolutely love it! Its nice knowing that the water I was wakeboarding in (without a wet suit, or dry suit) was 57 degrees, lol. The depth gauge is much nicer than the unit I had before too, it seems to be very accurate, and very quick - my old one never really got consistent readings in deep water, it was more of just a shallow water alarm than a depth sounder, haha.

At any rate, I didn't snap any pics of the install of the transducer or temperature probe - the transducer was easy, I just epoxied it to the hull in the bildge, right behind the transmission.

Installing the temperature probe was a little different - I couldn't decide how I wanted to do it - the temperature probe consists of a round wire (a little smaller than what you'd have for coaxial cable for your TV), and a small sensor, about 1" x .25" x .375" - this is where the trouble came about. I had to decide between drilling a larger hole, and either filling it, or using something like this (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=35103&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=10109&subdeptNum=10611&classNum=10612) to get the piece through the hull as one, or between cutting the probe from the wires, poking the leads through a smaller hole, and re-connecting.

I decided on the latter, with the hope that cutting the wires wouldn't negatively impact the readings. Fortunately, I was right - so I ended up popping a 1/4" hole through the bottom of the boat, feeding the temp sensor wire up through the hole into the bilge, then filling the hole from the inside with epoxy. On the outside (so far) I have covered the sensor with a 10"x10" piece of sheet vinyl (like what you'd use for a wrap) - I need to get under there and epoxy it to the hull, I just wasn't sure this was all going to work so I wanted a less permanent solution until I could get it in the water.

ian ashton
05-20-2011, 11:51 AM
Had the boat out last night and snapped a few pictures of my LEDs, I'm really happy with how these projects came out. I love the 'newty' underwater LED - I wish I could remember the brand, I think I want to get two more floods to go along with my sole spot in the middle, I think that would fill out the color in the back.


This was taken at about 6pm, well before dusk - not super bright, but definitely visible:
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7852&stc=1&d=1305902852

This was just after sunset, still kinda light out but kinda dark:
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7854&stc=1&d=1305902852
^^This was taken in about 3' of really merky water - so much so that if you look into the water you can't really see the bottom, just darkness.


Another picture of the interior LEDs:
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7853&stc=1&d=1305902852


As with all things, this just makes me want to add more! I've got several more "pods" and strips to install, so I'll keep updating as I add them.

bergermaister
05-20-2011, 08:02 PM
That totally rocks Ian! Do you have the cupholders by your glove box lit up as well or did that seem like it would be too distracting at night?

I received my orders from Oznium and Superbright a week or so ago and a few more SMD strips are on their way via ebay. Got a bunch of the cupholder style ones and some more of these in the chrome finish. I already have a couple in the cabin and really like them so adding more.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/images/products/accent/ALM/ALM-x4.jpg

Planning on having the cabin pretty well lit and something in each compartment, maybe even the cooler. Also considering a strip shining down from the tower if it doesn't look too tacky. I can't do the inside lip under the grill of my Polk cabin speakers so I can't copy you there like I was hoping... ;)

Probably won't get around to installing them all until the ballast project is completely done and tested, which will hopefully be by month's end. I'll definitely post up some glowing in the dark pics when I get it finished up!

ian ashton
05-20-2011, 08:29 PM
My boat doesn't have cupholders by the glovebox, at least yet. Not sure if I'd put them there or not, it seems like they'd reflect pretty badly off the windshield, especially if I have it tinted. Maybe cupholder rings would be best for that location.

iwaterskihard
05-21-2011, 10:38 AM
I installed a hot water shower in my boat this past weekend. Wasn't too hard except we had to deal with pouring rain as we had the boat all apart and spread across my buddies lawn. Should be hitting the water with it today hopefully to give her the 2011 maiden run and get the temp on the shower set up! Then look out fisherman! LOL

ian ashton
05-21-2011, 09:43 PM
I decided it would be a good idea to get the ACR wired up, since I've just been running both batteries in parallel all this time - anyway, I think the ACR is broken - it was an 'open box special' at West Marine, and with it all wired up, nothing happens. Both batteries remain connected, regardless of voltage, during starting, all the time. No action on the LED on the unit either.

http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7864&stc=1&d=1306024798

So I think I'm going to take it back and exchange for one that (hopefully) works.


Anyway, this setup won't last long, I just ordered some circuit breakers and distribution blocks and I'm going to put everything on the right side wall (ACR, battery switch, which is still not yet installed), distro blocks, breakers, and fuses), similar to Razz's setup. Also going to up to 1/0 instead of the 4AWG.

newty
05-22-2011, 01:49 AM
Ian looks good bro! Let me know if you want more, I still have access to the transom lights.

cab13367
05-22-2011, 03:57 AM
Ian,

Sorry for asking this but are you sure you have the acr wired correctly? How do you know that they remain combined all the time? You say you've been running both batteries in parallel. What exactly do you mean by that?

You say the LED does not light up. Are you aware that the acr waits two minutes from the time it detects a charge until the acr closes (and the LED lights up)?

Also, if you have the stock alternator, you don't need anything larger than 4 gauge from the acr to the battery or switch.

Al

ian ashton
05-22-2011, 08:41 AM
Ian,

Sorry for asking this but are you sure you have the acr wired correctly? How do you know that they remain combined all the time? You say you've been running both batteries in parallel. What exactly do you mean by that?

You say the LED does not light up. Are you aware that the acr waits two minutes from the time it detects a charge until the acr closes (and the LED lights up)?

Also, if you have the stock alternator, you don't need anything larger than 4 gauge from the acr to the battery or switch.

Al

Re: always combined- I used a multimeter and measured voltage at both terminals, and it was the exact same in all scenarios.

Re: batteries in parallel - the positive terminals combined and negative terminals combined - the way your 2 stereo batteries are wired.

I believe I have it wired correctly: terminal B to my stereo battery +, terminal A to my start battery +, batteries grounded together, ACR ground direct to batteries, SI to the ignition switch cranking wire (used your guidance and verified with a multimeter)


I did know about the 2 minutes after start thing, I tried it a bunch of times. Today I'm going to run a different wire to the ignition switch and see if that fixes it - thinking maybe the wire I used got pinched or split or something.

cab13367
05-22-2011, 11:43 AM
Ian,

How many batteries do you have in total? 2 or 3?

Give me a call - I can help with this. I don't think there is anything wrong with your ACR and I think this is a simple fix.

Al 503-333-5099

cab13367
05-23-2011, 12:45 AM
Ian,

I am going to assume that you only have two batteries - one for the stereo, one for starting. If so, then you don't want them wired parallel - remove the cable connecting the pos terminals together. But leave the cable connecting the negative terminals together.

Now the ACR can automatically combine or isolate your batteries as needed.

Al

ian ashton
05-23-2011, 01:30 PM
Al,

Thanks for the offer! I did remove the jumper connecting the positive terminals before I installed the ACR - I didn't have a chance to mess with it in Sunday, so I don't have any new info, but I'm pretty certain that the wire I used for SI was bad - its a really small gauge 'left over' I found in the garage from an old project.

cab13367
05-23-2011, 03:15 PM
Al,

Thanks for the offer! I did remove the jumper connecting the positive terminals before I installed the ACR - I didn't have a chance to mess with it in Sunday, so I don't have any new info, but I'm pretty certain that the wire I used for SI was bad - its a really small gauge 'left over' I found in the garage from an old project.

Ian,

I don't think the SI wire is the problem but let me know what you find out.

Al

mmandley
05-23-2011, 05:09 PM
SI wire has nothing to do with the switching as i havnt wired my SI line and the switching is working like it should.

ian ashton
05-23-2011, 08:16 PM
I definitely think it's the ACR - I completely disconnected and at rest its connected (measuring resistance between A & B)

Hooked it back up, disconnected the battery ground jumper (separating A & B ground) measured voltage at A & B terminal on ACR using battery A ground and got the same voltage (IE: connected)

It also makes no noises or anything - I figured you might hear a click or something when it combines (like how relays click) - is that not the case?

cab13367
05-24-2011, 01:24 AM
Ian,

Do me favor and wire the ACR exactly as shown below. Disconnect the SI wire for now. I assume you don't have the switch wired yet and that's fine. Then start your engine or connect a battery charger to the starting battery. Check the voltage at the starting battery and verify that it reads at least 13.0 volts. If so, wait at least two minutes and the green light should come on and stay on (and yes, you will hear a soft click). If not, then yes, the ACR could be faulty.

Al

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/SimpleWiringDiagram.jpg

ian ashton
05-24-2011, 12:13 PM
That's exactly what I did - what I found odd was that the voltage drop read at both terminals while starting too - that was kind of my tip that it was faulty. No worries, I've got it in my car ready for exchange :)

THANK YOU for all the help trouble shooting! Beers on me if you are ever in Michigan!

cab13367
05-24-2011, 07:12 PM
No problem Ian. Hope the next one works!

ian ashton
05-28-2011, 11:22 AM
I exchanged the ACR and started working on panel that all this stuff is going to be mounted on. My ground distro block arrived, but not the power, so I'll wait 'till I have that to actually wire it up.

First I made a template with posterboard, then transferred it to 1/8" birch:
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7929&stc=1&d=1306592124

Playing around with the layout (I painted the panel black):
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7930&stc=1&d=1306592124
I decided to flush mount the switch, and I'm going to drill holes for each wire and run everything through the back. Once I get the layout right and the holes drilled I'll wrap it in grey vinyl to match my drivers side sub facia.




I also finally got around to putting a spare on the trailer. I rarely tow, but when I do its a few hundred miles each way, so I figured it would be a good investment. I got the matching wheel & tire from Belle Tire for like $190 out the door, and just went with the Fulton mount from West Marine - it was kind of an impulse thing before our trek to Torch Lake. I think it looks good and it works, so thats all that matters :)
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7931&stc=1&d=1306592124


I also installed a reverse camera into the trailer - this is the coolest thing ever, makes backing into the drive way or getting out of gas stations extra easy, and probably a little safer too. It plugs directly into the in-dash in my car, so there is no screwing around with stuff.

cab13367
05-29-2011, 03:10 AM
Ian,

Nice work flush mounting the switch. I was going to do that as well but the panel I mounted it to was too thick so I ended up driling a hole behind the switch and running all the wires to it that way.

Looking forward to seeing the finish product. Did you get a chance to check the new ACR?

Al

ian ashton
05-29-2011, 05:22 PM
Cab: haven't tried the new ACR yet; I forgot it at home, now we are at the cottage.



Ian is your spare a 5 or a 6 bolt hole pattern?

if it's a 6, what did that spare Mount cost you?

My trailer is 6 lug, the spare holder is 4 or 5 lug, as such there is cuttently only 1 bolt holding the spare to the bracket. It seems solid enough, it's lasted 300 miles so far (famous last words) It was $40 at West Marine.

ian ashton
05-31-2011, 10:42 PM
A few more pictures :)

I re-did the LEDs above the subwoofer - before I had a single 12" solid tube - I replaced it with a ~36" flexible LED strip (the same as what I used to illuminate my tower speakers.)
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7958&stc=1&d=1306891999

I was so happy with how it looked that I ordered 2 more 48" strips to put in the gunnels, pictured below with the same 12" LED tubes that I replaced above the sub. The 48" strips will go all the way across, which will look a lot better.
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7957&stc=1&d=1306891999

At some point I plan to add some blue LED pods under the back seat area - I have ballast plumbed in, so when the bag is there you won't be able to see the lights, but after my injury I haven't wakeboarded with ballast in the boat, and I certainly don't with use the ballast when skiing. In fact, the 800 pound bag is in my garage, and the 400 pound bag is in my car, lol.

bergermaister
05-31-2011, 10:51 PM
I'd like you all to give a nice round of applause to the founding member of LEDs Anonymous, Mr Ian Ashton...



Ok - did I miss a pic of the tower speaker LEDs or just didn't post here?

viking
05-31-2011, 11:04 PM
Looks damn good! I'm jealous as mine is sitting in the garage all finished up and ready to hit the water. Unfortunately we've been hit with the 100year storm and it won't let up. Thanks for posting for us Northerners!

ian ashton
05-31-2011, 11:31 PM
I'd like you all to give a nice round of applause to the founding member of LEDs Anonymous, Mr Ian Ashton...



Ok - did I miss a pic of the tower speaker LEDs or just didn't post here?

LOL

I haven't finished wiring the tower LEDs, but they are the same idea as the in-boats, just bigger LEDs.

cachais
06-01-2011, 12:19 AM
Ian you mentioned that you installed a reverse camera on your trailer. How and where did you mount that? I can see that being real handy.

ian ashton
06-01-2011, 09:44 AM
Ian you mentioned that you installed a reverse camera on your trailer. How and where did you mount that? I can see that being real handy.

I drilled a hole in the right side down tube for the prop guard - I used a flush mount camera that I got on eBay for $20, and it works great. I tied the power into the trailer reverse lights, and then ran the video RCA all the way up to the front. For now the RCA is on the outside of the trailer, I didn't have a lot of time, but I imagine that at some point I'll re-run the wire on the inside of the trailer tube. I'll post a picture in a bit...

ian ashton
06-01-2011, 01:12 PM
Trailer camera:
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7968&stc=1&d=1306944727

http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7969&stc=1&d=1306944727

ian ashton
06-30-2011, 03:35 PM
I spent a little time last night finishing up some more on the LED system. I replaced the 12" LED bars that I had in the gunnels with 48" flexable LED strips. The problem that I was having with the strips is that they bend, alot, making the light distribution look kinda off. My solution was to secure them to 48" AL channel, then mount the channel into the gunnel. It worked perfectly, now I get even distribution of light, and its much brighter.
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=8206&stc=1&d=1309458670
(If you look closely you can kind of see my rusty screws, haha)



I also finally wired up the lights in the tower speakers - our lake does 4th of July fireworks on the water, so I wanted to have all my lights up and running for that. I didn't stay out late enough to see them in the dark, but at dusk they were noticeable, I'm sure at night they'll look killer.
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=8207&stc=1&d=1309458681

I know, I know, Krypt speakers, OMG they are the worst company ever, they steal designs, yada yada. I'll say this; I've used the tower speakers about 5 times, I mostly wanted them because they look cool (LOL), so given the low cost, they were a no brainer. They sound decent, and fill the tower giving it that 'look'. Some day I'm sure I'll switch to something fancier, but thats pretty low on the list.

bergermaister
07-01-2011, 04:15 PM
(DONE) Move batteries from stern to front passenger compartment
(DONE) Upgrade Tower Amp
(DONE) Upgrade Cabin Speakers
4) Redo front of sub enclosure
(DONE) Complete ballast system overhaul - 1100 bags in rear both sides, 750 in belly, T1200 pumps filling and draining everything, all new switches/wiring
6) New cover, possibly rear deck upholstery redone/repaired
(DONE) New trailer tires & spare tire mount - (Well at least the spare part anyway)
(DONE) New skid steps on trailer
(DONE) New guide bunk pads
(DONE) Small trailer fender dent repair
12) Add more LED accent lighting
(IN PROGRESS) iPod Nano touch mounted by driver stereo remote
(DONE) General cleanup and tightening anything with a screw, nut or bolt on it
(NEW/DONE) Moved driver side stereo remote.

I think next for me will be the LED lighting after looking at another one of Mr Ashton's fine updates :p I've got a box of strips, cuholder and other modules just sitting there waiting to go in!

ian ashton
07-01-2011, 04:55 PM
Most of my projects sit for a while before I get the motivation and time to actually do them. My ACR, battery switch, Kicker ZX1000.1, and new amp distro blocks are all sitting in a box waiting on me, haha.

viking
07-11-2011, 09:05 PM
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7564&stc=1&d=1303648100



Ian,
I used 2 of the same switches for my LED's and have used them for about a month now. I'm having issues with a short in them. I've narrowed it down to the switches. I had noticed that when they are off, sometimes there is a dull glow in the switch LED and therefore some power going to the LED's wired to the switch.
Have you encountered any troubles similar? Maybe it's due to my connections on the back. I did not solder them and maybe that will solve it?

ian ashton
07-13-2011, 11:42 AM
Ian,
I used 2 of the same switches for my LED's and have used them for about a month now. I'm having issues with a short in them. I've narrowed it down to the switches. I had noticed that when they are off, sometimes there is a dull glow in the switch LED and therefore some power going to the LED's wired to the switch.
Have you encountered any troubles similar? Maybe it's due to my connections on the back. I did not solder them and maybe that will solve it?

I haven't noticed this issue at all. I also didn't solder mine, although I plan to over the winter. I used heat shrink on each of the individual terminals, and then electrical tape'd them all together, with the hope that it would give some added strength to the super tiny terminals.

I also have mine wired into other switches though; IE: the top 2 switches control interior LEDs and Underwater LEDs - they tap into the accessory switch, so they only work when that switch is On. The bottom 2 control tower speaker amp turn on, and tower speaker LEDs, and tie into the Radio switch; again, they only turn on when the Radio switch is On.

I did this to avoid accidentally leaving one of the buttons pushed and not noticing, this way when I kill the power on the dash switches, I know everything else is off as well.

ian ashton
07-13-2011, 11:13 PM
The other day I decided to move my zone volume controls into the panel with the ignition. I had ordered some nice aluminum knobs for them to jazz it up a bit.

What I started with:
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=8303&stc=1&d=1310609345


Testing out the spacing, as the circuit boards for each knob is quite a bit larger than the knob its self:
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=8304&stc=1&d=1310609345

To keep them on the same plane I measured down from the "Blower" text at the B and the R, then laid out the blue masking tape. Each knob is 3mm apart;
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=8305&stc=1&d=1310609345

The finished product; I need to tweak the center knobs position, as its angled up making it look unlevel. I think its due to the way I circuit boards positioned, I haven't really tweaked it yet.
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=8306&stc=1&d=1310609345

cab13367
07-14-2011, 07:55 PM
Looking good Ian! Where did you get the aluminum knobs? I am about to do the same.

ian ashton
07-14-2011, 11:28 PM
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=290571855707

bergermaister
07-15-2011, 02:25 AM
LED Project - nearing completion. I had a few already, but then a few is never enough...

Added two strips tucked up under the back cushion. Love that glow.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1070616.jpg

I had ordered 10 of the cupholder Ozniums, but after adding the strips up above the speakers I decided that would be a bit too much. Kind of like the simple glow.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1070617.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1070624.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1070618.jpg

bergermaister
07-15-2011, 02:30 AM
And more-
One module for the storage which is also where all the lifejackets and sweatshirts usually end up at the end of the day.

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1070615.jpg

Each storage compartment.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1070627.jpg

And the last beer is mine! I thought twice about drilling a hole in the cooler but then again, it's not like it works all that great anyway... This would look really cool if it were packed with ice having the blue light reflect off it.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1070626.jpg

Rear compartments shining down on the ballast bags - usually covered by wet towels and stuff by night time.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1070629.jpg

bergermaister
07-15-2011, 02:35 AM
Dude where's my keys and phone? In the glovebox...

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/glovebox.jpg

And this one I've been wanting to do for a while. I'm not quite ready to spring for underwater LEDs so I added a few strips up under the lip of the hull shining down onto the platform. Pics don't really do it justice - looks way cool in the pitch black and will look even better reflecting off the water.

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1070619.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1070640.jpg

[IMG]http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1070625.jpg

bergermaister
07-15-2011, 02:44 AM
The bow is looking pretty dark now... May need a few strips tucked in up there too.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1070622.jpg

Thinking about speaker rings for the tower as well. I can't tuck them into the grills to copy Ian like I was originally hoping to so we'll see what happens.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1070637.jpg

Not sure if this is starting to look like a UFO or Vegas Baby!

ian ashton
07-15-2011, 10:38 AM
NICE! I love the glove box LED - for mine I put a 5 'puck' in the lid, and covered the wires with black vinyl, but yours is much cleaner, I might have to switch it up.

Do you have any daylight pictures of the rubrail LED? What did you use for that?

It looks absolutely awesome - inspiration for me to wire up some more in my boat, lol.


Beware; bugs are on their way!

dusty2221
07-15-2011, 10:56 AM
Looks great man! I absolutely love the lights I added to my glovebox and cooler, it just makes sense!

KG's Supra24
07-15-2011, 11:13 AM
Looks great. Im also interested to see daylight pics of under the rubrail.

bergermaister
07-15-2011, 11:57 AM
Looks great man! I absolutely love the lights I added to my glovebox and cooler, it just makes sense!

Thanks and thanks for the idea! I was following your upgrade thread with all the red LEDs everywhere.

I have a few flood style modules left over as well as 5 of the cupholder lights and another 4' strip since I changed plans on the fly. Not sure if I'll use them or where. Kind of felt like a kid in an arcade with a handful of quarters that I'm just dying to use up. Also found that I like the glow from the strips a little better than the flood light modules so I am going to get a few more shorter ones for under the bow cushions.

Don't have any daylight shots of the lip under the rubrail but I'll snap one soon. That is two 3ft sections. Single hole drilled in the middle for the wires to go through so it looks like one continuous strip when lit up. Just looking straight at it you'd never know it's there.

bergermaister
07-16-2011, 08:10 PM
Under rubrail of the LED strips. Not sure if the newer hulls have the same ledge that I do there?

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/6678b18a.jpg

You can see a few of the dimples where it started to curve that I had to go back and flatten out again - used a bit of superglue to keep them from wrinkling like that again.

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/f73b5072.jpg

jester
07-16-2011, 08:57 PM
Berg, Looking good. Where did you get all the LED's from?

schuylski
07-16-2011, 11:53 PM
Berg- looks great. love the platform light that looks awesome.

newty
07-17-2011, 02:10 AM
Nice work Berg!!! We need to talk! I'm going to have to get some LED info from you.:p

bergermaister
07-17-2011, 11:45 AM
Jester -

Oznium Superflux 4-chip for the glovebox, cooler, and rear compartments. These are the ones most guys use in the cupholders.

SuperBrightLeds - I used a few of their ALM Series accent lights. Two in the bow, one shining forward from under the rear cushion up the walk way, one underneath the glovebox by the amps. And a similar one under the helm shining down on the subwoofer. I actually have a couple of the ALM rectangles that aim out sideways above the rear speakers but they don't do a whole lot. Kind of shine across the cabin. Oh and a couple of waterproof flex strips shining down in the rear comparments

Ebay - The strips, which I'm starting to like the best, are the SMD flexible waterproof ones with 3M backing. I tried a few from a seller in Hong Kong or China, they took almost 3 weeks to get here, and were brittle - cracked in half and died as soon as I unrolled them. Found a US seller out of Cali that ships quick and they work great.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150620050116&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

You can cut these down as needed - every 3 LEDs without destroying them. Same ones I believe that Ian and Dusty used in their installs as well.

Newt - My trip today may be foiled by crap weather once again. If so I'll be bumming around the house. May be able to come and drink all your beer if that's the case. Or vice versa. :p

newty
07-17-2011, 09:28 PM
Dang! Just read this! Sipping on a marg, chillin with the family. Sorry.

viking
07-18-2011, 04:00 PM
Berg,
Nice install. The rear rubrail is the shit :)
Could not pull that off on my model as it doesn't have that lip but yours looks awesome.
I do also love my LED's in the Glovebox as well.
I'm not near as good at snapping pics to upload for you all. I'm too busy trying to wrangle the kids to remember to take snapshots.........sorry