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View Full Version : How To: Eliminate Your Swim Platform Rattle / Slop...



ian ashton
04-25-2011, 02:22 PM
This was one of the cheapest things I've done to the boat yet, and yet one of the things I am most excited about.

I feel like if there is a varying degree of "slop" in the swim platform, mine would have been on the 'worse' end of things. At the very least, its annoying as hell.

Before Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6gXetJpjeI


So, I figured if I could put a few set screws into the bracket, it would at least reduce the rattle a little.

A blank slate:
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7578&stc=1&d=1303689419

So, I just drilled and tapped a 3/8-16 hole about mid-way on the inboard side of the platform bracket. I actually bought Stainless Steel allen bolts for this application, but I couldn't find the correct size wrench, so for testing it out I used a few spare Zinc plated bolts I had laying around. I'll swap in the allens once I get the correct wrench:

http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7579&stc=1&d=1303689419

http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7580&stc=1&d=1303689419

...and the verdict: NO MORE SLOP! It didn't just reduce the sloppy clunking, it completely eliminated it! I'm so happy, I can't wait to get it in the water and see if its a permanent fix, or if I'll need some more tweaking.

I'll add an 'after' video this evening.

Razzman
04-25-2011, 03:18 PM
Awesome idea! I'm going to have to do that as well! One suggestion though, put a nut on the bolt and after you tighten the bolt, tighten the nut good. It will prevent the bolt from loosening up and falling out.

Sea N' Things
04-25-2011, 04:59 PM
This is the same idea as the 2011 style swim platforms, they have a set screw very similar to what you done.

ian ashton
04-25-2011, 06:24 PM
Awesome idea! I'm going to have to do that as well! One suggestion though, put a nut on the bolt and after you tighten the bolt, tighten the nut good. It will prevent the bolt from loosening up and falling out.

That is a great idea, and one I was toying with, I just didn't have any nuts (lol) to use. Another trip to the hardware store and I'll get it right ;)

ian ashton
04-25-2011, 06:25 PM
This is the same idea as the 2011 style swim platforms, they have a set screw very similar to what you done.

It was my inspiration - I saw it on an '11 at the Grand Rapids boat show. I think the whole bracket is a bit different, from memory isn't the set screw quite a bit smaller, and at the top of the bracket? Either way, I just want the noise and knocking to stop, haha!

KSmith
04-25-2011, 07:07 PM
Awesome idea! I'm going to have to do that as well! One suggestion though, put a nut on the bolt and after you tighten the bolt, tighten the nut good. It will prevent the bolt from loosening up and falling out.

Great idea Ian! I have used a similar setup Razz, not on a swim platform however. I usually a nylon lock nut spun onto the bolt "upside down".
Tighten the bolt, tighten the lock nut to tension the bolt and make it harder for the bolt to back out.

If that setup all loosens and disappears into the depths, well you must have pissed off some higher power...

Cheap enough a setup to keep spares on hand if it really bothers someone enough to want a quick on the water fix...

ian ashton
04-25-2011, 09:14 PM
After video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHU-Izm2Opk

pmoomba
05-02-2011, 02:44 PM
Nope, I just took the platform off and used a hand drill and threaded the tap in with a wrench. The whole process took about 10 minutes.

I saw this in the other thread. Maybe this is a dumb question but did you only drill through the platform bracket,or through the bracket plus platform? That seems to imply just the bracket unless you just marked the spots and then drilled/tapped each individually?

ian ashton
05-02-2011, 03:48 PM
I removed the platform, drilled through the lip, then about 1/2 through the base of the transom mount. I had to drill into the base of the transom mount to enable me to properly thread the lip - other wise the tap will bottom out on the base and not cut the threads deep enough to allow you to tighten the bolts.

I did not drill the platform part of the bracket.

The way this works is by putting pressure (IE: filling the void) between the transom bracket lip, and the swim platform bracket, essentially pushing the platform part of the bracket tight against the transom bracket.

hattrick
05-16-2011, 05:25 PM
This was one of the cheapest things I've done to the boat yet, and yet one of the things I am most excited about.

I feel like if there is a varying degree of "slop" in the swim platform, mine would have been on the 'worse' end of things. At the very least, its annoying as hell.

Before Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6gXetJpjeI


So, I figured if I could put a few set screws into the bracket, it would at least reduce the rattle a little.

A blank slate:
http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7578&stc=1&d=1303689419

So, I just drilled and tapped a 3/8-16 hole about mid-way on the inboard side of the platform bracket. I actually bought Stainless Steel allen bolts for this application, but I couldn't find the correct size wrench, so for testing it out I used a few spare Zinc plated bolts I had laying around. I'll swap in the allens once I get the correct wrench:

http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7579&stc=1&d=1303689419

http://moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=7580&stc=1&d=1303689419

...and the verdict: NO MORE SLOP! It didn't just reduce the sloppy clunking, it completely eliminated it! I'm so happy, I can't wait to get it in the water and see if its a permanent fix, or if I'll need some more tweaking.

I'll add an 'after' video this evening.

Ian,

How much of a lip do you have on your brackets which are mounted to the boat for the drilling and tapping of the set screw? I wanted to do the same with mine but after looking at it, it does not appear to be enough of a lip overlapping the bracket from the swim platform to drill and tap the necessary hole.

ian ashton
05-16-2011, 08:45 PM
Its not very large - the end of the bolt probably only comes in contact with 50% of the platform bracket, but its enough to get rid of the slop.

hattrick
05-17-2011, 10:19 AM
Its not very large - the end of the bolt probably only comes in contact with 50% of the platform bracket, but its enough to get rid of the slop.

Would it be possible for you to remove your swim platform and take a close up picture for me looking down the transom bracket with the set screw in place so that I can see the placement?

jmvotto
05-17-2011, 10:55 AM
Are the brackets cast iron or steel?

ian ashton
05-17-2011, 12:15 PM
Would it be possible for you to remove your swim platform and take a close up picture for me looking down the transom bracket with the set screw in place so that I can see the placement?

I can do that, however it won't be until next week - I keep my boat in the water, and I'm not pulling it out until next weekend for a trip. Once I have it on the trailer I'll post up some pics :)




Are the brackets cast iron or steel?

They are Aluminum.






So, the next question is "Are you afraid that you might have degraded the structural integrity of the bracket, by drilling a hole in where there isn't much surface area to start?"

Answer: Nope. The platform had so much movement before I'd be more worried about the slop giving enough leeway to break the bracket - with the bolt in place I am putting more pressure on the bracket, but eliminating the slamming back and forth, which seems like it would do more damage.

jmvotto
05-17-2011, 03:27 PM
I only have slop in my driver side bracket. hmnnn....

jmvotto
05-18-2011, 10:20 AM
Ian, guys at lowes were confused ( imagine) the tap size should equal the bolt size right...

ian ashton
05-18-2011, 02:21 PM
The tap size will be 3/8-16, the drill bit that comes with it is 1 size smaller. The bolts you want are 3/8-16.

This is exactly what I used:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_232576-1083-358101_0__?productId=1065067&Ntt=tap&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dtap

ian ashton
05-18-2011, 02:24 PM
And something like this for the bolt (the picture is wrong):
http://www.lowes.com/pd_136090-37672-880187_0__?productId=3012194&Ntt=3%2F8-16+bolt+hex&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3D3%252F8-16%2Bbolt%2Bhex%26page%3D2

jmvotto
05-18-2011, 03:36 PM
Exactly waht i bought but it took them 15minutes to tell me waht size tap matches the bolt. I made them take it apart to proof that it fits..

I bought 3/8 16 1 1/4" ss hex bolts plus the locking nuts 3/8 .

Thanks for the idea.

brain_rinse
05-22-2011, 11:41 PM
Another copy cat. I used 1/4-20 1" stainless steel allen head bolts and nylock nuts.

mnpracing
05-23-2011, 12:46 AM
Any concern with the threads loosening up or stretching over time since the bracket is aluminum?

brain_rinse
05-23-2011, 01:00 AM
Any concern with the threads loosening up or stretching over time since the bracket is aluminum?
I guess we'll have to see how it holds up over time. It crossed my mind though and that's why I went with a smaller bolt so if it slops out I can drill/tap it again.

squeeg333
05-23-2011, 03:23 PM
This is an awesome idea. I can't wait to do this to my platform this year. I am so sick of hearing the platform bounce up and down with the waves. Solid idea Ian!!

kaneboats
05-23-2011, 04:23 PM
This thread had me thinking about mine. Had to trailer 4 hrs down and 4 back from Clermont over the weekend. I haven't done the set screw yet so I put an extra tie down strap through the opening in the bracket and winched it down tight so it couldn't bounce around.

cab13367
05-26-2011, 04:35 PM
Ian,

How much of a lip do you have on your brackets which are mounted to the boat for the drilling and tapping of the set screw? I wanted to do the same with mine but after looking at it, it does not appear to be enough of a lip overlapping the bracket from the swim platform to drill and tap the necessary hole.

I was thinking exactly the same thing when I looked at mine. The lip on my bracket is only about 1/4" wide. If I did what Ian did, less than half of the bolt would actually contact the platform bracket, but maybe that is enough?

Razzman
05-26-2011, 04:57 PM
I was thinking exactly the same thing when I looked at mine. The lip on my bracket is only about 1/4" wide. If I did what Ian did, less than half of the bolt would actually contact the platform bracket, but maybe that is enough?

You could always use large stainless set screws for this as well I would think.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#about-set-screws/=ch5cpa

ian ashton
05-26-2011, 05:23 PM
The boat is out of the water and in my driveway, but its also monsoon raining outside, so I'm not much up for going and pulling the bolt to take pics, lol. I'll get some up shortly!

cab13367
05-26-2011, 08:08 PM
The boat is out of the water and in my driveway, but its also monsoon raining outside, so I'm not much up for going and pulling the bolt to take pics, lol. I'll get some up shortly!

Ian,

Never mind - I saw your answer in post #11 - I missed it the first time.

Thanks,

Al

mnpracing
05-31-2011, 10:59 AM
anyone know how to access the lower bolt in the swim platform bracket that is mounted to the boat? It looks like it goes in below the floor in the rear hatch.

brain_rinse
05-31-2011, 08:48 PM
My "fix" only lasted a couple of hours. The aluminum on the swim platform side of the bracket quickly deformed and started slopping around again. I tightened the bolts up again but it just deformed the bracket even more. Guess it's back to the composite shims...

ian ashton
05-31-2011, 10:08 PM
Mine has stayed solid, I've put about 12 hours on it, including 4 runs between 20-40 MPH (depending on water conditions) for 18 miles each - basically from the Southern end of Torch Lake to the Northern point, where L's cottage is.)

brain_rinse
05-31-2011, 10:45 PM
Surfing with the platform way under water is what did mine in today.

viking
05-31-2011, 11:05 PM
Surfing with the platform way under water is what did mine in today.

Stripped out? Can you elaborate?

Never mind - saw your post #30. Happy fingers :)

brain_rinse
05-31-2011, 11:08 PM
I used smaller bolts, maybe that's why it didn't hold up.

cab13367
06-01-2011, 12:16 AM
My "fix" only lasted a couple of hours. The aluminum on the swim platform side of the bracket quickly deformed and started slopping around again. I tightened the bolts up again but it just deformed the bracket even more. Guess it's back to the composite shims...

Dan,

Thanks for posting this. I will take this mod off my to do list.

Al

jmvotto
06-01-2011, 12:28 AM
x2 i guess i can return my stuff to lowes, since we surf and all.

dan, you got any pics

brain_rinse
06-01-2011, 12:31 AM
Dan,

Thanks for posting this. I will take this mod off my to do list.

Al
Ian's is holding tough so I may try to enlarge the holes a little and use a bigger bolt and see if I have better luck. If not I guess I'm only out a couple bucks in stainless hardware.

DOCDRS
06-01-2011, 12:35 AM
How about taking a feeler gauge, measuring the gap from the top one the transom side between the boat bracket and your platform bracket, then getting that thickness of ss metal or aluminum then cutting it to proper width and length , putting a bend on the top end then inserting it on the water side between your platform bracket and boat bracket. when you want to remove just tap up on the bend of the piece of metal..........I think some one already has this........just use a feeler gauge to determine the thickness and length you need

brain_rinse
06-01-2011, 12:37 AM
x2 i guess i can return my stuff to lowes, since we surf and all.

dan, you got any pics of the deformaty.
Yes but it's a terrible shot, sorry. I tried to take it from the side you can see how the bolt pushed into the bracket quite a ways.
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/dan_powers/08%20Moomba%20Mobius%20LSV/7bc901e2.jpg

DOCDRS
06-01-2011, 12:39 AM
I found the link and posted it in the how to section Sandm has the metal shims

cab13367
06-01-2011, 12:46 AM
Dan, I noticed you drilled your hole a lot lower on the bracket than Ian did, so there is a lot more pressure on your set screw than on Ians so maybe that is the difference.

brain_rinse
06-01-2011, 12:49 AM
Dan, I noticed you drilled your hole a lot lower on the bracket than Ian did, so there is a lot more pressure on your set screw than on Ians so maybe that is the difference.
Yep, that could be too. I'll keep experimenting... worst case it's back to the shims.

bbuhtz
07-21-2011, 11:56 PM
For anyone who is handy with a welder and welding, here is my fix. One side bracket pin hole was completely wore out, and the other side was getting damn close, hence the welded portion at the top (in picture) or the bottom of the bracket. Swim platform is solid as can be, no more slop, and I'm very confident this will last.

http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/picture.php?albumid=484&pictureid=3917
http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/picture.php?albumid=484&pictureid=3916
http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/picture.php?albumid=484&pictureid=3918

bbuhtz
07-21-2011, 11:56 PM
http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/picture.php?albumid=484&pictureid=3921
http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/picture.php?albumid=484&pictureid=3923

bbuhtz
07-22-2011, 12:56 AM
Nice, not sure why my pics are coming up... here they are my old method of posting pics.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b323/extreme360/swimdeckbracket7.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b323/extreme360/swimdeckbracket6.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b323/extreme360/swimdeckbracket5.jpg

bbuhtz
07-22-2011, 12:57 AM
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b323/extreme360/swimdeckbracket1.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b323/extreme360/swimdeckbracket.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b323/extreme360/swimdeckbracket2.jpg

DOCDRS
07-22-2011, 06:51 AM
Nice fix. I cut some galvanized duct work sheet metal shims a placed on inner and outer sides of both brackets between the rear of the boat bracket and the rear of the platform bracket. It shims the platform up. Also if the platform moves up from wakes rolling in from the stern or pressure from surfing , the shim will drop down wedging it better. Easy n cheap alt to welding

jstenger
07-22-2011, 09:48 AM
Has anyone checked on just swapping the old style brackets with the new style used on the 2011's? I believe that you would only have to replace the ones attaced to the transom and not the ones on the platform. I looked at them the other day, and they appear to have the same mounting hole pattern.

bbuhtz
07-22-2011, 03:34 PM
Nice fix. I cut some galvanized duct work sheet metal shims a placed on inner and outer sides of both brackets between the rear of the boat bracket and the rear of the platform bracket. It shims the platform up. Also if the platform moves up from wakes rolling in from the stern or pressure from surfing , the shim will drop down wedging it better. Easy n cheap alt to welding

I had previous had shims wedging the deck in place, but removing the deck from the boat was a pita for me, so I finally got around to just welding it up. It slides into place easy and removes easy. Hoping to not have to touch it again and I probably won't be the owner of the boat when the deck needs some TLC again.

mnpracing
07-22-2011, 04:16 PM
If i'm looking at this correctly, you added some length to the bracket so now the bracket on the platform extends below the transom bracket. And you also welded some thickness near the top (widest) portion of the platform bracket to fill the gap and wedge the brackets together. Is that about right? Did you also add thickness to the entire length of the platform bracket?

mnpracing
07-22-2011, 04:25 PM
placed on inner and outer sides of both brackets between the rear of the boat bracket and the rear of the platform bracket.

Hey Doc, does that mean the shim essentially wrapped around the bracket attached to the platform?

bbuhtz
07-22-2011, 04:43 PM
If i'm looking at this correctly, you added some length to the bracket so now the bracket on the platform extends below the transom bracket. And you also welded some thickness near the top (widest) portion of the platform bracket to fill the gap and wedge the brackets together. Is that about right? Did you also add thickness to the entire length of the platform bracket?

Basically in the picture (top: before, bottom: present) below I added some material at the bottom to close the gap I had between the deck bracket and the transom bracket to eliminate the slop... and in the circle thats what one side of my bracket looked like, so I cut it out and reformed it the way they come factory. The other side was wearing the same so I just did it too.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b323/extreme360/untitled-2.jpg

DOCDRS
07-23-2011, 11:06 PM
Hey Doc, does that mean the shim essentially wrapped around the bracket attached to the platform?
No I used 4 shims. I put the first 2 in. Cutting them. With tin snips and figures 4 would be better than 2. The platform is a tad higher out of the water as the shims keep it higher but its rock solid.....just ope its easy to tap the shims up in the fall. But I reaLly like the rigidity when sitting at a dock and rollers come in

mnpracing
07-24-2011, 02:31 AM
No I used 4 shims. I put the first 2 in. Cutting them. With tin snips and figures 4 would be better than 2. The platform is a tad higher out of the water as the shims keep it higher but its rock solid.....just ope its easy to tap the shims up in the fall. But I reaLly like the rigidity when sitting at a dock and rollers come in

do you happen to have pictures of your setup? I'm having a hard time visualizing how you did it. How would the platform sit higher with the shims, as the pin still has to go through the hole in both brackets right? Thanks for your help, I'm trying to figure out how to do this on mine.

cab13367
07-24-2011, 03:00 AM
I have the same gap at the top of the bracket. I tried something really simple today - I stuck a stainless lock washer in the gap from the top. It went in about halfway and completely eliminated the slop. I was afraid i was going to have a hard time getting it out afterwards but i was able to remove it no problem with needle nose pliers.

I have to remove my platform every time i put it in the garage so I didn't want to do anyhing that would be hard to remove.

Guess I'll keep doimg this until i find a better way.

mnpracing
07-25-2011, 12:28 AM
I have the same gap at the top of the bracket. I tried something really simple today - I stuck a stainless lock washer in the gap from the top. It went in about halfway and completely eliminated the slop. I was afraid i was going to have a hard time getting it out afterwards but i was able to remove it no problem with needle nose pliers.

I have to remove my platform every time i put it in the garage so I didn't want to do anyhing that would be hard to remove.

Guess I'll keep doimg this until i find a better way.

Today I used a composite shim from home depot. It's the kind of shim that is used to shim a toilet seat :D. I broke them off flush with the top of the platform sot that I had something to grab onto to remove it. It seemed to work well today. I also bought a set of plastic bond scrapers from the automotive aisle to try. I cut them to the width of the bracket. I'll try them next time out.

sandm
07-25-2011, 09:01 AM
I used the shims, but they have developed some slop to them after the season.

going to brainstorm a much more long term fix this winter.

the shims are a good cheap alternative, but it makes removing the platform kind of a pita. the new house I'm going into will not allow the platform to stay on, so I need something removable.

DOCDRS
07-25-2011, 06:58 PM
Here are some pics, took about 5 mins to cut and place these....I know they look ghetto but they work and the platform is rock solid.....I also like the SS washer idea as it is def easier to install......may try that one later
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6028/5975265307_84cbe64ae4_m.jpghttp://farm7.static.flickr.com/6023/5975266043_4c3a6fc964_m.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6027/5975266389_753ca9de6c_m.jpg

KSmith
07-27-2011, 11:34 AM
I need to do this. My platform is not horrible and seems to only have slop on one side, but I see how it could get worse quickly.

For those using washers as shims, could you explain to me a bit more how you get them back out to remove the platform? I think someone mentioned needlenose pliers but mine are way to thick to be able to use to remove the washer once it drops down betwwen the brackets

zegm
07-27-2011, 02:07 PM
I need to do this. My platform is not horrible and seems to only have slop on one side, but I see how it could get worse quickly.

For those using washers as shims, could you explain to me a bit more how you get them back out to remove the platform? I think someone mentioned needlenose pliers but mine are way to thick to be able to use to remove the washer once it drops down betwwen the brackets

I have probably posted this before, it seems like the teak ones don't have these problems. Ours doesn't, not sure the luxury of the soft pad is worth all this work?

Martin Jr
07-27-2011, 02:22 PM
not all platforms have this issue.

but...presonally speaking, yes. it is worth a hassle to have a nice soft pad on the swim deck.

i bet it would be rare that someone who has experienced a thick seadek pad would remove it to go teak

KSmith
07-27-2011, 03:36 PM
I have probably posted this before, it seems like the teak ones don't have these problems. Ours doesn't, not sure the luxury of the soft pad is worth all this work?

What work? How hard is it to drop a washer between the brackets. Getting it out may be another matter LOL, but then there is DOCDRS solution and a bit of AC tin and snips. Doesn't seem like much work to eliminate a rattle.

cab13367
07-27-2011, 04:22 PM
I need to do this. My platform is not horrible and seems to only have slop on one side, but I see how it could get worse quickly.

For those using washers as shims, could you explain to me a bit more how you get them back out to remove the platform? I think someone mentioned needlenose pliers but mine are way to thick to be able to use to remove the washer once it drops down betwwen the brackets

Please note that I used a stainless lock washer (see pic below) NOT a flat washer to eliminate the slop. I inserted the washer between the platform bracket and the piece that the bracket slides into that is attached to the transom. I inserted this at the top of where the two meet, which is where the gap is. Inserted the washer with the cut in the 12 o'clock position (on top) and only about 1/2 of the diameter of the washer went in. Make sure you find a washer that is just slightly smaller in thickness than the gap so that it does not slide all the way in. I just got lucky and happened to have one that was the correct thickness. This way, it takes up the gap yet is easy to remove at the end of the day. The gap on the other side was smaller and I did not have a cut washer for it so I left it as is but even with just one washer in place, 95% of the slop was eliminated.

Do NOT drop a flat washer in there as you may have a really hard time getting the platform off!

Al


http://img4.fastenal.com/productimages/71067_hr4c.jpg

cab13367
07-27-2011, 04:25 PM
I have probably posted this before, it seems like the teak ones don't have these problems. Ours doesn't, not sure the luxury of the soft pad is worth all this work?

It's not the material of the platform but the bracketry that is the problem and it would seem that both platforms would use the same bracketry. So just consider yourself lucky :)

zegm
07-27-2011, 07:48 PM
I will keep my beautiful teak! And not admit that I am old and it might hurt my knees! And the kids don't care! :p

As far as the problem this issue has been on this board for years! And no one with a teak deck has complained. I believe it is because the teak deck is flat on the bottom without a lip and probably doesn't experience strumming as it passes throught the water or any other water induced vibration that might cause things to loosen up and wear some.

But I will not comment on this anymore as I am happy with what I got and you guy don't mind shimming the stuff. :D

In other words Teak is now just for us old timers that appreciate the beauty of the wood and just make their kids suffer. ;)

KSmith
07-28-2011, 08:10 AM
Thanks Al that helped!

DOCDRS
07-28-2011, 06:23 PM
Please note that I used a stainless lock washer (see pic below) NOT a flat washer to eliminate the slop. I inserted the washer between the platform bracket and the piece that the bracket slides into that is attached to the transom. I inserted this at the top of where the two meet, which is where the gap is. Inserted the washer with the cut in the 12 o'clock position (on top) and only about 1/2 of the diameter of the washer went in. Make sure you find a washer that is just slightly smaller in thickness than the gap so that it does not slide all the way in. I just got lucky and happened to have one that was the correct thickness. This way, it takes up the gap yet is easy to remove at the end of the day. The gap on the other side was smaller and I did not have a cut washer for it so I left it as is but even with just one washer in place, 95% of the slop was eliminated.

Do NOT drop a flat washer in there as you may have a really hard time getting the platform off!

Al


http://img4.fastenal.com/productimages/71067_hr4c.jpg


great post Al .......but would it not be better to insert the cut at 10 or 2 or even 3 or 9 as if it slips down there is no way to compress the cut and possibly make it very difficult to remove the platform. Love the simplicity ,just thinking of a possible woopsie

cab13367
07-29-2011, 02:45 AM
great post Al .......but would it not be better to insert the cut at 10 or 2 or even 3 or 9 as if it slips down there is no way to compress the cut and possibly make it very difficult to remove the platform. Love the simplicity ,just thinking of a possible woopsie

I suppose that would work too. But if you look at the washer from the side with the cut on top, it looks like a wedge with the widest part at the top (at the cut). So that's why I did it that way. On my platform, the washer goes in about halfway and that's about where it stayed at the end of the day.

squeeg333
08-09-2011, 07:01 PM
I like your idea Al. I tried this a few weekends back, and did actually put a flat washer in first. Obviously, that dropped in most of the way, then the top of the bracket got the lock washer. This got ride of the slop, but the flat washer down in the brackets made the swim deck nearly permanent. We had to reef on the thing for a while before we could get it out.

I like the tin shims, , but also worry about removing the platform after a day. Might be another pain.

I also tried the toilet shims this past Friday. Worked GREAT! Until about halfway thru the day, then they fell out somewhere... I didn't break them off at all once jammed into the gap, so that might have been the major issue.

I look forward to any other options that may pop up, and might try that ductwork shim idea...

ian ashton
08-16-2011, 03:49 PM
I spoke with Heidi at Atlanta Marine and had her price out the 2011 Swim Platform brackets; they are surprisingly inexpensive, and I plan to order a set. I don't want to post the price here as I don't know the rules with dealers on that, but I'll say that replacing the bracket on the transom and the platform for both sides should cost less than 10 cases of Miller Lite.

mnpracing
08-16-2011, 04:41 PM
I spoke with Heidi at Atlanta Marine and had her price out the 2011 Swim Platform brackets; they are surprisingly inexpensive, and I plan to order a set. I don't want to post the price here as I don't know the rules with dealers on that, but I'll say that replacing the bracket on the transom and the platform for both sides should cost less than 10 cases of Miller Lite.

Ian, can the transom brackets be replaced without ripping up the floor (ie. cutting out fiberglas?)? The bottom bolts/screws are not visible inside of the boat.

cab13367
08-16-2011, 05:40 PM
Please note that I used a stainless lock washer (see pic below) NOT a flat washer to eliminate the slop. I inserted the washer between the platform bracket and the piece that the bracket slides into that is attached to the transom. I inserted this at the top of where the two meet, which is where the gap is. Inserted the washer with the cut in the 12 o'clock position (on top) and only about 1/2 of the diameter of the washer went in. Make sure you find a washer that is just slightly smaller in thickness than the gap so that it does not slide all the way in. I just got lucky and happened to have one that was the correct thickness. This way, it takes up the gap yet is easy to remove at the end of the day. The gap on the other side was smaller and I did not have a cut washer for it so I left it as is but even with just one washer in place, 95% of the slop was eliminated.

Do NOT drop a flat washer in there as you may have a really hard time getting the platform off!

Al



Below are pics to go with the description above. I have been using this method the last three or four times out and it has been working well for me. It eliminates 95% of the movement and is really easy to remove with a pair of needle nose pliers afterwards which is important for me as I have to remove the swim platform after each time out.

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/d43277f8.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/3460176b.jpg

bbuhtz
08-17-2011, 10:48 AM
should cost less than 10 cases of Miller Lite.


Thats still 10 cases! I'd rather the cases than a newer bracket, lol

New Guy
08-17-2011, 11:54 AM
^haha I completely agree!

ian ashton
08-17-2011, 01:27 PM
Ian, can the transom brackets be replaced without ripping up the floor (ie. cutting out fiberglas?)? The bottom bolts/screws are not visible inside of the boat.

I believe that the transom brackets just screw into the transom, I don't think they have backing plates and nuts/bolts, I think they are a sheet metal style screw, but I'm not sure.

Either way, on the Outback if I do have to get to inside of the transom to get to nuts & bolts it shouldn't be too hard, the back floor comes up really easily and a few 12" extensions would get me in the right place, if need be.

cab13367
08-17-2011, 04:00 PM
I believe that the transom brackets just screw into the transom, I don't think they have backing plates and nuts/bolts, I think they are a sheet metal style screw, but I'm not sure.

Either way, on the Outback if I do have to get to inside of the transom to get to nuts & bolts it shouldn't be too hard, the back floor comes up really easily and a few 12" extensions would get me in the right place, if need be.

It kinda makes sense the bottom screws are just sheetmetal/wood type screws but on my boat, the top screws are definitely machined screws and have nuts and washers on the inside of the boat to tighten them down. And on our boats, there is no way to remove the floor at the transom without cutting it out.

squeeg333
08-18-2011, 12:32 PM
That would be nice if the bottom two bolts were just blind threads. Then it would be a pretty straight forward swap. And if the new brackets fit that same bolt pattern, then, wow, that would be awesome.

jstenger
08-18-2011, 10:41 PM
Do the dealers have access to an exploded parts diagram through a Skiers Choice website? If so, that would be the easiest way to see if the bottom screws have nuts or simply thread into blind holes.

DOCDRS
08-27-2011, 02:50 PM
After doing the shims and thinking physics and levers I think Al's idea is best and simple. I didn't have thin enough lock washers so using 2 adjustable wrenches I bent a washer 1/3 2/3 so it wouldn't slip down all the way just incase it was to thin. The bent part also give something to grab to remove. All slop removed definitely quicker than the shims and better I believe.

DOCDRS
08-28-2011, 11:49 PM
Here is a pic of the bent washer. I have minimal spacing so have to insert it from underneath and from the side of the platform. After 1400lbs of surfing regular and goofy, and 2000lbs of wakeboarding ballast these little suckers stayed put and are easy still easy to remove. sorry for picture quality space was tight

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6187/6091068563_4e07a1d6fc_z.jpg

saskie99
09-06-2011, 01:17 PM
well no point in posting pictures......... my platform broke off just the same as the brackets in the earlier posts. They are at the welders right now getting fixed. poor design by moomba, why are the brackets not made out of stainless steel, then you would have no problems.
Did we get an answer on how to tighten the bracket attached to the boat?? I could not figure it out! Again bad design!!!

mnpracing
09-06-2011, 01:35 PM
well no point in posting pictures......... my platform broke off just the same as the brackets in the earlier posts. They are at the welders right now getting fixed. poor design by moomba, why are the brackets not made out of stainless steel, then you would have no problems.
Did we get an answer on how to tighten the bracket attached to the boat?? I could not figure it out! Again bad design!!!

did the bracket on the transom break, or the bracket on the platform? Also, are you saying that when tightening the bottom bolts on the transom brackets that you can't get them to tighten? The top bolts should be accessible from inside the boat, you might have to pull the carpet back from the wall of the transom.

saskie99
09-06-2011, 01:41 PM
The bracket on the swim platform broke just like in the pictures, when i took it off I noticed the boat bracket was a little loose so I tried to tighten it and the screws just turn. I didnt realize that you can get at them from the inside of the boat, I thought they were glassed in.

mnpracing
09-06-2011, 02:32 PM
The bracket on the swim platform broke just like in the pictures, when i took it off I noticed the boat bracket was a little loose so I tried to tighten it and the screws just turn. I didnt realize that you can get at them from the inside of the boat, I thought they were glassed in.

on my boat, only the top bolts are accessible, the bottom bolts are below the level of the floor.

saskie99
09-06-2011, 02:37 PM
Do they just have a nut on them? I sure hope I can get at them!
Anybody out there have a 05 lsv and had to tighten the bolts on the swim platform boat bracket???

mnpracing
09-06-2011, 03:02 PM
Do they just have a nut on them? I sure hope I can get at them!
Anybody out there have a 05 lsv and had to tighten the bolts on the swim platform boat bracket???

yes, the ones that are accessible have a fender washer and a nyloc on them.