PDA

View Full Version : Less friction on trailer bunks?



pmoomba
05-02-2011, 11:53 AM
My local ramp is a little too short for me to back in deep enough to make loading the boat without power pretty difficult. It's nigh impossible to just hand winch it, and I need quite a bit more power to get up than is comfortable. If I go in too deep there's a big drop off on one side where the trailer will become unlevel (to the point of risking being bent), so I can't really get any deeper. Anyone with a similar length boat or longer has similar issues, so everyone loads under a good amount of power which just makes the drop off worse over time.

I'd prefer not to load under power if I can help it, or at least significantly less power than is currently required. Anyone have experience on what might be a good option?

I've heard of and seen some posts about Liquid Rollers. It's supposed to work great (and would of course never go up or down the ramp while unhooked). Is a winch + boat buddy clip going to be safe bringing the boat up/down the ramp with slicker bunks? (06 obv, ~3k lbs dry/empty) Has anyone used it and had or not had any issues?

Or does anyone have experience with other options? Googling/searching brings up a few ideas from dish soap, lemon pledge, wd-40, armor all (or any other number of household lubricants), ez slide pads/slick sticks, etc. I need to do something but looking for some feedback on what will be both successful and safe. For the sake of discussion let's assume it's the only ramp in town :P

pmoomba
05-02-2011, 12:28 PM
Oops meant service/repair and don't see an option to delete.

Mikes
05-02-2011, 12:33 PM
We had the same problem years ago,we finally just filled the hole with big rocks then smaller rocks in the gaps. I know it sounds crazy but if you take the time to do it right it works very well.

pmoomba
05-02-2011, 12:41 PM
I was talking to one of the other guys that use the ramp this weekend and they mentioned maybe trying something similar in the past and it was washed away (it's a river), or maybe someone just thought they'd wash away so they didn't try. I'll see if I can bring it up again though, but still looking for some other options just in case.

mmandley
05-02-2011, 12:58 PM
We do a combo power on and winching. I hate to power the boat all the way to the stop and i have broke straps trying to muscle it up with just the winch.

We run the boat up about half way on the trailer under power. Then i connect the winch and while my driver gives it light throttle i winch it up. This splits the power and force needed and i find it works really well.

I would caution putting rolling bunks on the boat as the shear weight of the boat might cause damage to the rollers or hull. Id think SC choose the best option for a reason.

The household lubricants are decent choices for use if you go out every day but as soon as they dry they arnt going to work.

pmoomba
05-02-2011, 01:22 PM
I would caution putting rolling bunks on the boat as the shear weight of the boat might cause damage to the rollers or hull. Id think SC choose the best option for a reason.


Yeah I wasn't thinking putting rollers on, liquid rollers (ie : http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_11151_10001_15045_-1?cid=chanintel_google&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=15045 ). Supposed to work great, only concern would be that they become so slick as to cause other issues like extra stress on winch/boat buddy clip since the bunks don't have the friction they used to. Maybe something that dries off would be better and just apply it before each loading.

Hoopskier
05-02-2011, 01:34 PM
Here is a video of Liquid Rollers in action. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTNe5mJMF_s&feature=related I used to have the same jet ski and that ski around 900lbs.

If you were to use this product; I would not unstrap the boat PRIOR to going down the ramp. Don't want the boat sliding off the trailer onto the ramp. I wouldn't foresee any problems with winch holding the boat on. If concerned about being to slippry, just do half of the bunk board instead of all of them.

When I load my boat, I have to use some power. In fact since I do it by myself I have to leave the boat in gear with some power, then jump out to winch. I don't use liquid rollers, but I do back the trailer in deep then pull it back out to where I need it. That what the bunks are wet. Since it sounds like your ramp is short, maybe use a bucket, fill with lake water to wet the bunk boards, if they are dry.

mmandley
05-02-2011, 01:46 PM
Thats pretty slick stuff Hoop

Im lucky we have very long ramps here in the NW where i go and i never go alone so i always have someone to drive the rig or drive the boat.

zabooda
05-02-2011, 10:47 PM
You may want to try the plastic covers that go on the bunks. Our dive rescue boat had the plastic bunks but the boat slide off twice coming out of the water so we put carpet down. You should be able to slide it on in shallower water but remember to secure it before taking off.

Hoopskier
05-02-2011, 11:02 PM
Also wanted to add, that depending on the angle of your ramp, a different height of hitch may help. I found that for me, getting the front (nose) of the trailer down lower, helped with loading/unloading as well. It helps getting the bow to float in the water sooner, rather then just the back.

So instead of my trailer sitting perfectly level with the tow vehilce, is actually slightly down. I'm not talking crazy low here either, like 8", just an inch or 2 depending on what you have now.

cab13367
05-04-2011, 09:02 PM
We run the boat up about half way on the trailer under power. Then i connect the winch and while my driver gives it light throttle i winch it up.

Mike,

Another option is to have the driver in the truck SLOWLY back down the ramp while you winch the boat forward. That way, you are not eroding the lakebed under the prop.

Al

mmandley
05-04-2011, 09:36 PM
Yea i guess we could try that but it seems that runs the risk of running the boat into the winch stop to hard.

We really dont use to much throttle im the one winching and well i can crank that winch pretty well seeing how i broke to straps already muscling the boat up.

At the Hagg i don't worry to much about the lake bed as we both know how long that ramp is and all that's under us is concrete lol.

Also if i recall me and you actually have different hull cuts, on the back. I know they say there the same but if i recall looking at yours and mine i have these 2 ridges and i only have about 2 inches of cross movement before my rear end is on a bunk on one of the ridges in the hull. So i have to be very careful when trailering to make sure the rear is very centered on the trailer and the best way is to drive it onto the trailer so as the rear seats on the trailer its centered.

I will have to show you how mine is slightly different. I might be confused with the XLV though as i know Eric < Stretch > boat has a different hull then ours and even when coming off plain he gets a suction sound from the air and water at the rear corners of his boat. Pretty interesting sounding when he comes off plane if your in the back of the boat.

sandm
05-04-2011, 09:50 PM
hoop, that stuff is cool.

I'm assuming the big downside to powerloading is disturbing the ground below the boat?
I float mine on the trailer and winch up, then let the self-centering part of the trailer center it up as the driver pulls out slowly. our ramps are all concrete and steep to the point that when the boat drops down the incline, if not for the tower, you would lose it completely in your rearview mirror. I have seen some try to powerload with the trailer partway out. fun to watch :)

cab13367
05-05-2011, 12:36 AM
Yea i guess we could try that but it seems that runs the risk of running the boat into the winch stop to hard.

We really dont use to much throttle im the one winching and well i can crank that winch pretty well seeing how i broke to straps already muscling the boat up.

At the Hagg i don't worry to much about the lake bed as we both know how long that ramp is and all that's under us is concrete lol.

Also if i recall me and you actually have different hull cuts, on the back. I know they say there the same but if i recall looking at yours and mine i have these 2 ridges and i only have about 2 inches of cross movement before my rear end is on a bunk on one of the ridges in the hull. So i have to be very careful when trailering to make sure the rear is very centered on the trailer and the best way is to drive it onto the trailer so as the rear seats on the trailer its centered.

I will have to show you how mine is slightly different. I might be confused with the XLV though as i know Eric < Stretch > boat has a different hull then ours and even when coming off plain he gets a suction sound from the air and water at the rear corners of his boat. Pretty interesting sounding when he comes off plane if your in the back of the boat.

Mike,

It's all good - there's more than one way to properly load a boat onto a trailer, I was just suggesting an alternative to power loading. Brenda watches me real close when she slowly backs it in as I winch it up and is ready to stop as soon as I raise my hand up or yell "good". Most of the time, I coast it onto the trailer far enough that I don't have to have her back it in any further - I can easily winch it up the rest of the way.

I really think you have my boat mixed up with stretch's as I am pretty sure our hulls are identical. I know what you mean about only have about 2" of side to side margin or else you are high sided on one of the bunks. I have the same issue.

Al