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rdlangston13
06-01-2011, 02:05 PM
While replacing a seized up brake caliper on my trailer it came to my attention that bolts/screws that screw into the bottom of the trailer bunks to hold them on the trailer we all about 1/4 to 1/2 the way falling out. I went around and tried to tighten them and it seems like the wood is just rotted and none of them would go in. I have decided to replace all the bunks and hardware when I get home and have a few questions about carpet.

I was talking to one guy who owns a boat repair facility and he said that he prefers to double wrap the bunks with carpet to prevent the carpet from tearing. My question is has anyone ever had a problem with their trailer bunk carpet tearing? And also, should I be able to reuse the carpet that is on the trailer right now? The carpet looks to be in decent condition and west marine charges an arm and a leg for trailer bunk carpet. It will run me 130 bucks for carpet alone for this project.

My plan is to drill mounting holes straight through the wooden bunks and use bolts washer and nuts instead of the crappy wood screws. This way I can secure the bunk from the top and bottom instead of just the bottom. I plan to use a router to make a recessed area in the bunk to so the head of the bolt will no contact the bottom of the boat. By putting the bolts in from the top and the nuts on the bottom it should prevent the bunks falling off even in the event of the nut falling off.

Also does anyone know the size of the wood screws that go into the bunks? I have to buy all the hardware before I go work on it and I wont see my boat till next Wednesday to check it.

http://moomba.com/msgboard/picture.php?albumid=380&pictureid=3746

bergermaister
06-01-2011, 07:44 PM
Hmmmmmmmmmm

My bunk carpet is 10yrs old - never torn but worn thin in a few places to the point where it looks like it could tear. It's tough stuff though.

Question on your channeled design there. If you are going to bolt the bunks down, then carpet them so the bolt heads are not exposed, what do you do if you need to tighten them up at some point? Cranking that nut will likely get to the point where the bolt itself spins too - only be able to get it so tight without getting a wrench on the bolt head, but it's hidden under the carpet.

May not be an issue if the bolt head sinks into the wood and bites. I suppose you could peel up the carpet to get to it but what a pain. ???

rdlangston13
06-01-2011, 08:29 PM
Hmmmmmmmmmm

My bunk carpet is 10yrs old - never torn but worn thin in a few places to the point where it looks like it could tear. It's tough stuff though.

Question on your channeled design there. If you are going to bolt the bunks down, then carpet them so the bolt heads are not exposed, what do you do if you need to tighten them up at some point? Cranking that nut will likely get to the point where the bolt itself spins too - only be able to get it so tight without getting a wrench on the bolt head, but it's hidden under the carpet.

May not be an issue if the bolt head sinks into the wood and bites. I suppose you could peel up the carpet to get to it but what a pain. ???

My carpet looks to be in good condition, it is coming loose of the bunks from the staples being pulled out of the wood however. I plan on using thread locker and lock washer so hopefully i wont have to tighten them until the bunks or carpet needs replacing. That is my plan anyways. In the event of one coming loose i guess i could cut an X in the carpet where the bolt head is, access it to tighten it. I dont think my bunks can be any looser than they are now without coming off entirely though... at least with this sytem no matter how loose they get they wont slide off

bergermaister
06-01-2011, 09:11 PM
Good plan with the locktight - that ought to hold for a few years! You could do a locking nylon style nut too for good measure.

I power load my boat 99% of the time and try not to do a lot of skidding up or winching across the bunks so I'm sure that helps to prolong their life.

rdlangston13
06-01-2011, 09:27 PM
Good plan with the locktight - that ought to hold for a few years! You could do a locking nylon style nut too for good measure.

I power load my boat 99% of the time and try not to do a lot of skidding up or winching across the bunks so I'm sure that helps to prolong their life.


I also plan to apply liquid rollers to the front two bunks and the front half of the middle two bunks. I think this will help when launching and loading the boat. wont have to power it off and on. i hope

maxpower220
06-02-2011, 07:40 AM
Seems like a lot of extra work. The carriage bolt design that is used works. If you bolt spins when you try to tighten it, it is telling you that your wood needs to be replaced. Using a carriage bolt and some locktite will prevent the nut from backing off also.

Carpet on the wood is less likely to move and less likely to tear. Once you start stacking carpet, the carpet will move acroos itself. That, would seem, to be more likely to create a tear. Again, every boat trailer maker used the same process. It has worked for many, many decades. No need in changing it now.

kaneboats
06-02-2011, 09:31 AM
I have recarpeted and replaced bunks many times. The first thing I would tell you is that there is nothing spectacular about "bunk carpet" other than the price. I go to Lowes and grab the outdoor/porch stuff and have had it last for years, even outlasting original bunk carpet.

rdlangston13
06-02-2011, 10:25 AM
I mainly just want to replace the bunks, The carpet seems alright, its just the bunks that are rotted

bzubke1
06-02-2011, 12:05 PM
What kind of caliper did you use to replace your seized one? Also where did you get it? I need one.

rdlangston13
06-02-2011, 01:08 PM
It came with 4 UNP calipers i believe, I used a Kodiak to replace the right front UNP. It is a slightly difference design but comes with a bracket to make it fit. Its not blue like the rest of mine but it works. It came in a kick with new wheel bearings and a hubbed rotor so I went ahead and replaced everything. I got from a place called Husky Trailer in Houston. Im sure you can find it online somewhere. You can probably find the UNP one that came with it but I did not have time to wait on shipping.

lsvboombox
06-02-2011, 01:25 PM
What kind of caliper did you use to replace your seized one? Also where did you get it? I need one.

check www.pacifictrailers.com


they are ufp calipers

rdlangston13
06-02-2011, 01:35 PM
check www.pacifictrailers.com


they are ufp calipers

There you go UFP, i knew it was a U something P!

rdlangston13
06-21-2011, 09:09 PM
ok so i got this done and thought i would share some pictures of the job and some things i can into.

http://moomba.com/msgboard/picture.php?albumid=380&pictureid=3807

http://moomba.com/msgboard/picture.php?albumid=380&pictureid=3808

http://moomba.com/msgboard/picture.php?albumid=380&pictureid=3809

http://moomba.com/msgboard/picture.php?albumid=380&pictureid=3810

rdlangston13
06-21-2011, 09:15 PM
http://moomba.com/msgboard/picture.php?albumid=380&pictureid=3818

I ran into some issues with the stainless bolts and nuts seizing up well before they were tight. one even broke off! i ended up putting at the bolts in the freezer and pulling them out and installing them as needed. this seemed to fix the problem but i would assume lock tite would work as well. i fill the top of the boards with silicone sealer to prevent water from sitting in there. job took a lot longer than i expected and in 98 degree heat and humidity it was pretty miserable. needless to say i was very dehydrated when i finished which made the rest of the evening interesting

mnpracing
06-22-2011, 12:28 AM
Thanks for sharing this. Please post additional pics as you get the carpet on. Also let us know if you run into any issues with getting the bunks centered so the bow hits the roller centered. What tips can you share about how to get the holes drilled correctly to make sure the bunks are lined up?

rdlangston13
06-22-2011, 09:32 AM
all i did to get the holes lined up was make out a template of the bracket for the bunks, and then when I would remove an old bunk and measure when the bracket was on it and mark the new bunk with the template in the corresponding spot. then place the new bunk on top of the brackets and line it up with the template drawings i made on the bottom. once the front and back of the bunk were aligned i would mark the holes for the bolts with a permanent marker, take the bunk off and flip it over and drill the holes.

carpet was by far the most difficult part of this since you have to wrap the boards AFTER they are mounted. and i forgot my carpet adhesive spray at home which would have made the carpeting easier. i used an entire box of 1000 stainless steal staples and could have used more but i ran out. i also installed 4 3/4 inch stainless steel screws and washers for every 4 feet of bunk board to help hold the carpet on. so the front 2 4 foot boards had 4 screws each, and the middle and rear 8 foot boards had 8 screws each. i may even place some more screws in them just for good measure.

the carpet i used was black outdoor carpet and i got all i needed for like 40 bucks

i also sprayed the front two bunks with liquid rollers as well as the front half of the middle bunks. i figured this would make loading and unloading much easier since it will help the front of the boat slide up on the trailer. i figure once the boat is out of the water and sitting on the rear bunks that they supply sufficient friction to keep the boat in one spot.