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jester
08-20-2011, 03:52 PM
Gi to GIII with reversible pumps, 08 OBV

So I finished my GI to GIII after several years or planning and redesigning. Thank you group buy for the deal in the reversible pumps. I will start off this is not a simple plug it in and go install. You need some knowledge of plumbing and electrical to do this. I am missing some photos since I was taking the photos with my phone and it went belly up. I might also be missing a step since I am recreating it from my memory. I got my parts from Home Depot and Wakemakers.com. I will try to provide links on each part to help you out.
Please note I used 3/4 right now because I did not want to replace out the current 3/4 connection during the summer. My winter project will be replacing out all the lines with 1”.

Needed parts.
3/4 tube. I used clear so I can see the water flow. I do not know how much I used since I keep changing where things set.
3/4 T – brass X 2 - http://www.wakemakers.com/3-4-brass-tee.html
3/4 shutoff ball valve X 2 - http://www.wakemakers.com/brass-ball-valve-3-4.html
3/4 thread to 3/4 hoes connection X 6. - http://www.wakemakers.com/3-4-thread-3-4-inch-barb-adapter.html
3/4 hose T X 1 - http://www.wakemakers.com/3-4-inch-hose-barb-tee.html
3/4 thread to 3/4 hoes 90*. Link is for a 1” but you will get the point. http://www.wakemakers.com/1-inch-thread-barb-elbow-adapter.html
Three reversible pumps – I used Johnson pumps. http://www.wakemakers.com/johnson-ultra-ballast-pump.html
12 gauge wire. Around 60 feet. http://www.wakemakers.com/12-awg-2-cond-marine-ballast-pump-wire.html
12 gauge female crimp terminal X 27 ish . - http://www.wakemakers.com/12-awg-crimp-female-terminal.html
14-16 gauge male crimp terminal X 6.
Rocker switch X 3 - http://www.wakemakers.com/supra-moomba-ballast-switch.html
Inline fuse holder. I used 12 Gauge but the photo is from a 16 gauge. http://www.wakemakers.com/16-awg-inline-fuse-holder.html
20 Amp fuses X 3. One per pump. You can find that at your local auto part store or home depot.
12 gauge ring terminals X 6
Two bags for the rear compartments. I used 400LBS fly high I got from someone that upgraded to 700’s.
You will also need all the fittings to connect the hoes to the bags. http://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-pro-x-series-fitting-w742.html
Hose clamps. After using the 3/4 ones they are a pain to get on so step up to ones that can go down to 3/4 but also can go up to 1” - Not sure if these can but you get the idea. http://www.wakemakers.com/1-inch-hose-clamp.html
Electrical tape and plumbers tape. I keep forgetting mine at home and now have about 6 rolls of the stuff.
Bolts – nuts and washers
A board to mount the pumps on. I did a Teflon board.

Tools you will need:
Electrical tools to cut/strip and crimp on the connections.
Voltage meter.
Screw driver
Drill with different bits
Socket set
Crescent wrench.
A tool to cut the hose. I recommend buying one and not using a knife or else you will spend a lot of your day cutting down hose.
A hole saw.
soldering iron.
Table saw
Jig saw
Ok now down to business:
There are really two main parts. The electrical and the pluming.
The first part is to remove everything from the thru haul fitting to the hoes that goes to the front bag.
Install the T and the shutoff values. Past the shutoff values install the threaded 3/4 to hose connections. One on each side.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-01102152.jpg
Next you will need to mount the pumps on the board. This board will be installed on top of the V-Drive unit where the GI sprinkler value is installed. You will have to remove the metal plate and my new plate will be bolted in the same place. That photo is to come late.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-01150651.jpg
I did some of the pluming outside of the boat. Two of the pumps are connected together using the hose T adaptor.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-01151603.jpg
Because of the location of the pumps I needed to use some of the 3/4 thread to 3/4 hose connections that are straight and some that are the 90*s.
Each pump has a 3/4 thread to 3/4 hose since the pumps you can do a 1” direct to the pump.
Now that the pumps are mounted to the plate you can install it on the V-Drive unit.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-01193811.jpg
NOTE: you cannot install the left pump until after the plate is mounted to the V-Drive unit. On my plate there are two holes behind the left pump that I made line up with the holes that metal plate was attached too.

jester
08-20-2011, 03:52 PM
Pump on the left goes to the right ski locker, center pump goes to the center ski locker and the right pump goes to the port locker bag.
The last step is to run the lines to the bags. On the port side of the boat I used the hole saw to cut out a hole in the black plastic between the locker and the engine compartment. (Photo to come later).
For the center hose I just cut down the hoes and plugged it in.
I ran a hose from the thru haul T to the left pump and the center/right pump to the T that was installed earlier.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-01193811.jpg

Now on to the electrical.
First is since these are reversible pumps the positive and negative need to have several connections to allow the positive and negative to be switched depending if you are filling or draining.
This is where soldering fun comes in.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-11182350.jpg
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-11192200.jpg
The next part is to use shrink tubing to make sure everything is good.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-11193325.jpg

jester
08-20-2011, 03:53 PM
The next is to connect the inline fuses to the cables to the switches. This I also soldered.
Then since the switches require two negative lines to make sure the lights work I took the negative line and did the same thing as above.
After everything was soldered I put the cables into the bundle and ran them from the front of the boat to the back.
I ran the power on the right side of the boat above the speakers then followed the fuel line down to the fuel tank There is a little gap area that the fuel line runs down that allow you to hide the cables. Zip ties are your friend. (More photos to come later)
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-20100149.jpg

Once the cables are in the back by the pumps it is as easy as plugging them in. This is where I used the male and female terminal connections to switch them around depending if I hook up the switches backwards.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-16201456.jpg
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-16201715.jpg

jester
08-20-2011, 03:54 PM
New we are on to make a switch plate. I first did a template of the size I need for the switch.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-14123751.jpg
After I had the size I made the plate using a jig saw and table saw.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-14123800.jpg
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-14133424.jpg
I installed the switch plate under the other switches. I do not know if I like this location yet that is why I have slack on the cables.

jester
08-20-2011, 03:54 PM
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-16201739.jpg
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-16201744.jpg

After the switch plate was installed it is time to wire up the switches. The switches come with a document on how they should be wired up. Easy to follow. (photos to comes later)

Now the test. Other then needing to switch around two of the pumps everything worked as planned. Bags filled and emptied with the touch of a finer.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-20100125.jpg

jester
08-20-2011, 03:55 PM
You will notice I did not drill thru the haul because that I need more beer to do. So for the vent I just ran the hose to the speaker locations then when I fill I will just push it overboard until I get enough nerve to do this.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-20100131.jpg
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-20100752.jpg
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-20100757.jpg


Now I drained the bags on land to makes sure lots of water was coming out.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-20100338.jpg


Sorry for all the posts but I am limited to 4 photos per post.

08LSV
08-20-2011, 05:32 PM
Hey Jester that looks great! I finished my upgrade to Tsunami 800's and had lots of issues... I should have listened to wakemakers before, but I was also uneasy about drilling holes. However now after removing my factory thru hull intake and taking a big chunk of gelcoat with it, I found that the fix was not that difficult. I have ordered all the new stuff with the group buy to go with the Johnson pumps. I am glad to see you went that route for the first install rather than a redo like me. Were there any issues that stick out in your mind I should look out for?

moombadaze
08-20-2011, 05:40 PM
very impresive, wish I had done this--may still

jester
08-20-2011, 05:48 PM
08 LSV, I was going down the Tsunami 800's route and kept running into issues. Going the reversible option is a much better way to go. Good to know about the removal of the current thru haul. I will keep that in mind and might just drill a new intake.

For issues with the install it was most of my own issues like being under the dash and dropping the screw driver on my head a few times. Photos of the fuses and how that is run will be tomorrow after i get off the lake. Once I had all the parts the install was kind of fast. One thing i would do differntly would be to leave more wire on the ends that I soldered that go into the switches. It was a bit short on the cables but i was still able to make it work.

saskie99
08-20-2011, 05:54 PM
nice, clean install, looks super good!

mmandley
08-20-2011, 06:47 PM
Very very nice Jester one of the best installs of ballast i have seen done. If i was you id take the sticker off at the throttle and flush mount that switch plate right there. Where its at your going to cut your hand or one of your drivers will and be cursing your ballast LOL. Bro honeslty if you want let me know a good day i will be more then happy to drive down and drill all the holes you need man. As you know i have added threw hulls on the side of my boat, under my boat, cut the glove box wider for my HU, installed the flush mount Nav light. I have extensive experience in cutting into the boat and not causing damage. I will be happy to drive down in the AM get it all done, then we can hit the lake for the afternoon have a few brews. Let me know bro.

jester
08-20-2011, 07:08 PM
Mike,
I was thinking of installing the switch there also. You know my master plan was to bring the boat up one day and get you or Al to help me drill a few holes.

mmandley
08-20-2011, 07:13 PM
Bring it brother i got tons more parking room then Al lol Or if your comming to LBC i can do a lot of it there in the AM before we head out. We got a full shop with Electricty at the property there. You let me know man lol.

wolfeman131
08-20-2011, 10:44 PM
Very very nice Jester one of the best installs of ballast i have seen done.

word to your Mother!

jester
08-21-2011, 12:34 AM
Thanks guys. I have a few more photos.


This one is of the power block from under the dash on the drivers side. Also note all the zip ties will be changed out to black ones as soon as i get some more black ones. The white ones really bug me since they stand out.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-20195732.jpg

Next one is from behind the switches. Also shows how I mounted the switch pannal without drilling. This is a temp solution until I but Mike or Al some beer and cut away.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-20195810.jpg

The last one is the hole i had to drill on the port side ski locker.

http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/B%20upgrade/2011-08-20195841.jpg

jmvotto
08-21-2011, 07:28 AM
jester. great install. i should have gone this reversible pump route as well.

you are almost home. the thru hulls seem scary but really are not. just as easy as that hole you cut in the locker divider. just get a hole saw slightly larger than the fitting. painters tape. go slow in reverse and presto. your done.

i had to drill 4 ballast holes in the hull and three heater holes. tip measue twice or three times.

other thoughts. you could wye vent them off the center drain thru hull (factory drilled g1) or tie into the ballast drain.

jester
08-22-2011, 02:33 PM
Jmvotto, Thanks for the advice. For the front bag i pulled the drain line that was factory installed and i am using that as the vent line now.

On another note i went out wakeboarding yesterday and wow does that put a lot of weight in the boat. the swimplatform no longer is ontop of the water when the bags are filled. I now need to play with the weight and my speed to get the perfect wake. Anyone running 400 lbs on each side plus the center 400 know a good speed and rope length?

saskyrider
08-22-2011, 06:51 PM
jester.. what are your fill times like?? that looks like an awesome setup and i want to upgrade my pump system... filling 2 750's a 400 and a couple extra 400's under the nose takes a long time with the stock rule pump!!! plus then you get to do away with those sprinkler valves!!!

mmandley
08-22-2011, 08:27 PM
Jmvotto, Thanks for the advice. For the front bag i pulled the drain line that was factory installed and i am using that as the vent line now.

On another note i went out wakeboarding yesterday and wow does that put a lot of weight in the boat. the swimplatform no longer is ontop of the water when the bags are filled. I now need to play with the weight and my speed to get the perfect wake. Anyone running 400 lbs on each side plus the center 400 know a good speed and rope length?

When we ran the 400s the first year we were running them all full and 22 mph at 65ft this year we have been filling the 750s about 1/2 and the 1000 in the nose and running at 23 70ft rope. Best thing to do is just go wake board speed and play with plate and watch the wave. The more weight the more speed to clean it up but it will feel really firm and you hit the wave.

jester
08-22-2011, 10:09 PM
jester.. what are your fill times like?? I did not use a stop watch on my Fill times. Right now my major problem is the intake only bein 3/4. If i run all three pumps or even two of the pumps one starts to get starved for water. I think once i get one 3/4 and one 1" or two 1"'s installed I will not have this problem. I think it took about 5 min for each bag to fill . By the time the truck and trailer where parked and my driver made it back to the boat almost all three bags where filled. Next time i go out I will get a time on them and let you know.

08LSV
08-23-2011, 03:58 AM
Right now my major problem is the intake only bein 3/4. If i run all three pumps or even two of the pumps one starts to get starved for water. I think once i get one 3/4 and one 1" or two 1"'s installed I will not have this problem.

Hey Jester I am having the same problems with running my Tsunami upgrade on one 3/4 intake. If I try to fill more than one bag at a time the first pump just robs most of the water from system. I am planning on drilling three 1" holes for the new Johnson pump redo and just using the 3/4 intake for my center bag which is my smallest. Let me know how it works if you get yours done first.

saskyrider
08-25-2011, 03:43 PM
cool thanks jester!!

08LSV -- that would be super quick i'm thinking. Your talking one intake for each pump and 1" to boot right?

geoff

Canuckle Head
08-25-2011, 05:33 PM
I did four 1" intakes and have 4 Johnson pumps and couldn't be happier. I didn't install in the same place as Jester and will have to rethink that as it would be nice to get some of my storage space back. I installed under the rear seats, just ahead of the rear bags, 2 pumps per side. Would be easy enough to relocate them like that.

I also took the GII swtch, stripped it and then rewired it in 10g and installed it it the factory location. I also had to strip the existing switch and rewire it too. Nice to have it fully automated.

Times are as follows:

400lb Centre bag: 4 Minutes
650lb Bow: 6 minutes
750lb Rears: 8 minutes

The best part is I can switch surf sides in the 8 minutes as I can be draining and filling at the same time. I also ran a T-fitting on the line that runs up to my IBS which has 2 shut off valves that allow me to have an additional fill line for another bag inside seating area if I don't have enough human ballast on board. (750 lbs)

Works slick!

I don't have any pictures of the seating fill line yet but will try to remember the next time I'm out on the boat.

Cheers,

Wade

Canuckle Head
08-25-2011, 06:17 PM
Sorry, I meant to say GIII switch.

08LSV
08-25-2011, 08:42 PM
08LSV -- that would be super quick i'm thinking. Your talking one intake for each pump and 1" to boot right?

Geoff, I will have four separate intakes 3 @ 1" and one 3/4" to the four separate pumps then out 1" hose from all the pumps to each bag. It may sound a little crazy but I just want it to be as easy as possible once its done. I should have just listened to wakemakers in the first place, but I needed to learn the hard way.




I also took the GII swtch, stripped it and then rewired it in 10g and installed it it the factory location. I also had to strip the existing switch and rewire it too. Nice to have it fully automated.

Hey Wade, I just got all my stuff in from wakemakers so I can start the install maybe this weekend or next week. Do you happen to have a wiring diagram that you used to wire your stuff up. I am in the same position using my GIII switches and running new wire from the pumps to the switches. Did you have to run heavier wire from the fuse/breaker block to the switches?

Craig

Canuckle Head
08-28-2011, 02:50 AM
Yes, I have a wiring diagram bit you'll have to wait till Monday as I am currently in Lake Oswego hanging with my in-laws and wakeboarding it up.

Will be back on Monday and will get it to you then.

Cheers,

Wade

mmandley
08-28-2011, 05:42 AM
Yes, I have a wiring diagram bit you'll have to wait till Monday as I am currently in Lake Oswego hanging with my in-laws and wakeboarding it up.

Will be back on Monday and will get it to you then.

Cheers,

Wade

Nice man, not to fare from me only about 30 minutes actually. Good time of the year to come we have been having awesome weather lately and the rivers are actualy pretty decent temps mid 70s.

08LSV
08-28-2011, 06:12 AM
Yes, I have a wiring diagram bit you'll have to wait till Monday as I am currently in Lake Oswego hanging with my in-laws and wakeboarding it up.

Will be back on Monday and will get it to you then.

Cheers,

Wade

Thanks man I really appreciate it!

Canuckle Head
08-28-2011, 10:15 AM
Nice man, not to fare from me only about 30 minutes actually. Good time of the year to come we have been having awesome weather lately and the rivers are actualy pretty decent temps mid 70s.

Yeah, the lake has to be at least 75 and it feels like a bath. Went to Active yesterday and did some damage there too. New wakeboard and jacket for my 7 year old who is now up and riding like a champ. (Such a proud dad I am!), new prop (Acme 1847), jacket for me, wetsuit and slalom gloves for the wife. Man, that place is the bomb! They treat you right that's for sure!

Stoked to get back home and switch out that old OJ prop for the new Acme. Not so stoked about the 6.5 hour drive but whatevs. At least we have the entertainment system in the back for the boys to keep them occupied.

jmvotto
08-28-2011, 07:54 PM
Thanks man I really appreciate it!

wade, would you mind sending that my way as well. it may help me figure out my backfeed issue on my ibs. i am absolutely stumped.

thanks.

joe

08LSV
08-29-2011, 01:16 AM
Stoked to get back home and switch out that old OJ prop for the new Acme.

We just got to try out our 1847 for the first time today. It was freakin awesome. You will be super stoked when you try it!

DOCDRS
11-23-2011, 10:58 AM
Great write up, and great upgrade job ,can't believe I'm just reading it now....a definite how too

newty
11-23-2011, 03:51 PM
Great write up, and great upgrade job ,can't believe I'm just reading it now....a definite how too

I'm with Doc, never even saw it before today. Great job! Holes are easy... measure and saw! You'll be fine. The first one is always the hardest.

jester
11-30-2011, 01:35 PM
Thanks guys. This winter I should be putting the holes in the side of the boat. Just need to tow to Portland for some friends (Mike, AL and you Ryan) to help me out.

mmandley
12-01-2011, 09:42 AM
Thanks guys. This winter I should be putting the holes in the side of the boat. Just need to tow to Portland for some friends (Mike, AL and you Ryan) to help me out.

NP man anytime after Jan and my 27ft garage will be empty. We can back right in and do it up right. My boat will be at Exile after that.