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View Full Version : Replacing 3/4 thru-hull fitting with 1" best way?



jester
02-09-2012, 02:12 PM
Now that it is cold out i want to replace out the 3/4" thru-hull fitting with a 1". What is the best way to break the 3/4" free so i can remove it and install a 1" thru-hull?

kaneboats
02-09-2012, 02:27 PM
I think Al had to heat his up and stick a piece of pipe in the hole to work it free. I'm leaving mine and just adding another inlet.

mmandley
02-09-2012, 02:37 PM
Theres nothing olding the 3/4 in once you remove the hose and spin on retaining ring. You should be able to just push it right out.

As for putting the new one in you might need a long file, file the insides down a but to make it fit. Let me know if you have any troule. Call anytime man.

moombadaze
02-09-2012, 04:06 PM
crawl under the boat and look up at the scoop, Just to be safe as I could swear mine had 4 philips headed screws going up into the hull

mmandley
02-09-2012, 06:00 PM
Ohh my bad did you mean the main water intake. I thought you just meant the threw hulls for bilge and ballast drain lol

Yea there's is also screws. I'd also use a heat gun if possible to heat the area and help release the fitting.

Pretty sure were doing this as part of my ballast upgrade later this month. Just waitng on Spens from WakeMakers to return from vacation to take boat in.

lsvboombox
02-09-2012, 10:39 PM
It could also have some 4200 on it. You can fashion a tool that fits in the mouth of the thrull fitting and try twisting it out. Like they side above remove any screws if there are any

jester
02-12-2012, 12:04 AM
Guys. Thank you. I think the heater and the trying to twist it out are the best ideas. Now anyone know of a great tool to get the nut off of it? It is an OBV so space it limited so the tool has to come up but still have to be able to break it free.

eblom
02-14-2012, 10:27 AM
I am looking at doing this as well... Whats the best way to patch the screw holes from the old thru-hull fitting?

lsvboombox
02-14-2012, 10:38 AM
I am looking at doing this as well... Whats the best way to patch the screw holes from the old thru-hull fitting?

You can use marine tex or you can use gel coat and thicken it with cabosil

brain_rinse
02-14-2012, 11:16 AM
I am looking at doing this as well... Whats the best way to patch the screw holes from the old thru-hull fitting? I put some marine adhesive in the holes then put the screws back in.

rdlangston13
03-06-2012, 02:31 AM
i know this is about the bottom of the boat but if i wanted to replace the rest ones on the ride with a 1" i assume you have to drill the holes out a little to make them fit?

mmandley
03-06-2012, 03:18 AM
i know this is about the bottom of the boat but if i wanted to replace the rest ones on the ride with a 1" i assume you have to drill the holes out a little to make them fit?

When i removed the black plastic ones on the sides, to install my SS ones, there was already enough room for 1inch. There was a spin on locking nut on the back that makes it tight. If yours was to small it can be dont pretty easy with a file or a dremmel type sanding wheel.

On my new SS i added a rober O ring so they wouldnt gouge the gell coat.

rdlangston13
03-06-2012, 05:18 AM
When i removed the black plastic ones on the sides, to install my SS ones, there was already enough room for 1inch. There was a spin on locking nut on the back that makes it tight. If yours was to small it can be dont pretty easy with a file or a dremmel type sanding wheel.

On my new SS i added a rober O ring so they wouldnt gouge the gell coat.

i want the SS thru hulls but I want them in 1" so when i upgrade my ballast to 1" eventually i wont have to double buy everything, i figure i can just use an adapter to go from 3/4 to 1 for the time being

kaneboats
03-06-2012, 08:49 AM
That's thinking ahead. You're in for it now.

mnpracing
03-06-2012, 10:33 AM
i know this is about the bottom of the boat but if i wanted to replace the rest ones on the ride with a 1" i assume you have to drill the holes out a little to make them fit?

I had to do this to go to 1". On someone's recommedation, I used a cork from Home Depot and stuffed in in the 3/4" hole (get the right size to be able to leave about 1/4 inch sticking out, but fitting tight), then used a 1-1/8 carbide hole saw by hand to enlarge the hole. The cork allowed the pilot bit of the hole saw to be guided in, and it worked like a champ.

kaneboats
03-06-2012, 10:42 AM
I tried that cork thing but by the time I didn't need the cork for the bottle anymore I forgot what I was supposed to drill and didn't care anymore.

wolfeman131
03-06-2012, 11:20 AM
11Outback V gave me a hint on how to easily go from a smaller diameter to a larger diameter opening:

buy one of the drill bit sets that allow you to interchange the size and simply stack the bits so the smaller/original size is sticking beyond the larger/new size. should line up perfectly.

if it doesn't work, blame him!

lsvboombox
03-06-2012, 12:31 PM
11Outback V gave me a hint on how to easily go from a smaller diameter to a larger diameter opening:

buy one of the drill bit sets that allow you to interchange the size and simply stack the bits so the smaller/original size is sticking beyond the larger/new size. should line up perfectly.

if it doesn't work, blame him!

Thats pretty tricky

rdlangston13
03-06-2012, 10:02 PM
what kind of drill bits are these???

wolfeman131
03-06-2012, 10:18 PM
Hole saw. You can get a kit that has multiple sizes that you normally swap out on on the mandrel. Check out the Milwaukee kit in the link below.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?keyword=Hole+saw&selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1

rdlangston13
03-07-2012, 05:03 AM
one more question! if you elimate the factory aerator manifold system and make a thru hull in the bottom for each sack and run a 1200 gph tsunami for each sack and have the vented loop system, do you still have to drive up on plane to prime the pumps?

also do you just use the hole saw on a normal cordless drill?

kaneboats
03-07-2012, 09:49 AM
That should not be necessary if you locate your pumps low enough. I guess it's always possible to get an air bubble stuck in there though. My understanding is also that the mushroom type thru-hull intake doesn't really force water up when the boat is moving like the factory intake does.

rdlangston13
03-07-2012, 09:55 AM
That should not be necessary if you locate your pumps low enough. I guess it's always possible to get an air bubble stuck in there though. My understanding is also that the mushroom type thru-hull intake doesn't really force water up when the boat is moving like the factory intake does.

yeah, water moving past it real fast seems like it would have the opposite effect

eblom
05-05-2012, 01:34 PM
I have a 2008 LSV & am attempting to switch out my 3/4" thru hull for a 1"... I have the 4 screws out on the hull & I have loosened the nut on the floor... Does the brass ebow unscrew from the threaded shaft? What is my next step? I could really use some pointers before I get too aggressive. Thank you!

mnpracing
05-06-2012, 01:45 PM
I have a 2008 LSV & am attempting to switch out my 3/4" thru hull for a 1"... I have the 4 screws out on the hull & I have loosened the nut on the floor... Does the brass ebow unscrew from the threaded shaft? What is my next step? I could really use some pointers before I get too aggressive. Thank you!

It would have been best to unscrew the elbow prior to taking out the screws and the nut, but you'll have to get the elbow off first. Then use some heat (hair dryer) on the thru-hull to soften the adhesive, then twist and wiggle it out. you're almost there.