PDA

View Full Version : 1 reversible pump/ 2 bags



z28ke
04-19-2012, 01:53 PM
I want to upgrade from a gI to gIII on a budget and had a couple quick questions(leaving the center system alone):

Could I use one reversible pump with a dedicated thru-hull, tee off after the pump and run hoses to both rear bags, putting a valve just before each bag so I can close one and fill/drain the other?

Would I need to vent the bags or not because of the reversible pump?

I am correct in that with a reverible pump you only need one hose going to each bag and it will push water back out the thru hull?

I've been doing alot of research on others modifications and found jesters how to thread very helpful!

Thanks for any help!

KSmith
04-19-2012, 02:53 PM
You could do that yes. You would need to add vents lines and thru hulls (above waterline) for each bag. Yes using the reversible you have one hose for each from the pump (or T) that fills and drains it out the thru hull in the bilge. There is a Y type valve on wakemakers that could be used as your T and the just one valve rather than two

MLA
04-19-2012, 03:16 PM
Z28,

I am a firm believer of venting any ballast sac, regardless of the type of pump system used. It allows air to purge and be replaced with water. The benefit of this is that water is just a little heavier then air ;) It also gives us an audible and visual indicator that the sac is full when the water purges out of the vent. Last, it prevents the sac from blowing up like a balloon. its ok to have a little bulging, but too much pressure can push out speakers, cup-holders, engine walls, split sac seams and break fittings on the bottom side of a locked locker door.

And yes, you can use a couple of manual ball-valves to control the direction of flow from/to the pump between 2 sacs.

lsvboombox
04-19-2012, 03:18 PM
Yep WM sells a Directional y valve for 50.


The rversible pumps suck all water and air out of the bags and doesnt let air in. So u technically dont need vents. Without them u could blow a bag though. If you put vents u then need check valves outherwise the bag will not drain as well.

z28ke
04-19-2012, 04:13 PM
Thanks for the replies guys! A couple more questions for ya

Is there any need to run a filter before the pump?

What kind of reversible pump do you recommend for ease of wiring and switch options?

Where would you mount the pump on a 2008 OBV?

Thanks again!

MLA
04-19-2012, 05:17 PM
Thanks for the replies guys! A couple more questions for ya

Is there any need to run a filter before the pump?

What kind of reversible pump do you recommend for ease of wiring and switch options?

Where would you mount the pump on a 2008 OBV?

Thanks again!

If your lake is know to have a lot of floating debris, then installing a grate over the thru-hull might be a good idea.

The Johnson is only slightly faster then the Jabsco, but once in use in a real world ballast setup, it very minimal. Both are quality pumps. The Jabsco Ballast puppy comes with pre-wired 20A DPDT Carling toggle switch with a labeled actuator and in a switch bezel. In the end, since both pumps draw about the same current and are 12V DC reversible motors, they get wired the same and operate the same. I suggest steering clear of the cheaper non ignition protected fluid transfer pumps.

Since the pumps are self-priming, you can just about locate them any where. I would look for a location that makes it easy to mount and easy to service the pump if needed. Orient the pump so the motor is up and the pump head it down if you mount it on a wall. IF the shaft seal leaks, this prevent the water from entering the pump. Keep in mind that these pumps are not waterproof, so do not locate it below the water line in the bilge.

The forward wall of the engine bay is a popular spot on a lot of tow boats. Thats also a good spot for your manual diverter valve.

jmvotto
04-19-2012, 05:45 PM
Yep WM sells a Directional y valve for 50.


The rversible pumps suck all water and air out of the bags and doesnt let air in. So u technically dont need vents. Without them u could blow a bag though. If you put vents u then need check valves outherwise the bag will not drain as well.

do you put the check valves on the vent lines?

lsvboombox
04-19-2012, 06:37 PM
do you put the check valves on the vent lines?

Yep, i put them right next to the thru hull. When installed they suck the bags dry. If u dont have them you can stick your finger in the thru hull and see how much of a difference they make

z28ke
04-19-2012, 10:15 PM
Awesome, I'm going to get on the horn with wakemakers and get this show on the road! Thanks for the help guys

z28ke
04-20-2012, 09:34 PM
Another quick question: Can I use a 90 degree ball valve on top of the thru hull and leave the jabsco pump right there? ie don't physically mount it with screws, but let the plumbing on the intake side hold it up.

Thanks for all the help, trying to get a game plan!

lsvboombox
04-20-2012, 10:22 PM
Another quick question: Can I use a 90 degree ball valve on top of the thru hull and leave the jabsco pump right there? ie don't physically mount it with screws, but let the plumbing on the intake side hold it up.

Thanks for all the help, trying to get a game plan!

The pumps are heavy and i would mount them a little higher. I swa
P the bow and took a lot of water on. Had the pump been that low it would have been history.

MLA
04-20-2012, 11:40 PM
Another quick question: Can I use a 90 degree ball valve on top of the thru hull and leave the jabsco pump right there? ie don't physically mount it with screws, but let the plumbing on the intake side hold it up.

Thanks for all the help, trying to get a game plan!

If clearance in the bilge is an issue, you can came right off the thru-hull with a 90* elbow, then the ball-valve. From there, use a thread x hose-barb then hose to the pump. The pump needs to be hard mounted to the boat and needs to be above the bilge/water level. Does that answer your questions.

In all my ballast installs, I use ALL bronze from the thru-hull to the ball-valve. From that pint, PVC, hose, etc.

z28ke
04-21-2012, 11:26 PM
Yea I understand the logistics of plumbing it, just wasn't sure if the pump was to heavy mount to the manifold only. It seems like I found a thread on here where someone did that with reversible pumps but I'm not positive, they could have been aerators which are obviously lighter. I also saw where someone mounted pumps to the engine compartment side of the back seat which would be easy to do, but t'ing off the outlet and running a hose to the opposite side would force a tight bend. Mounting it to the manifold would make for the cleanest install if it can handle the weight. I can bring it up high enough that I wouldn't be concerned with the pump getting wet, plus I've never had a problem with getting much water in the boat even when rollers come over the bow. Sorry for all the questions

MLA
04-22-2012, 12:17 PM
QUOTE=z28ke;175070]Yea I understand the logistics of plumbing it, just wasn't sure if the pump was to heavy mount to the manifold only. It seems like I found a thread on here where someone did that with reversible pumps but I'm not positive, they could have been aerators which are obviously lighter. I also saw where someone mounted pumps to the engine compartment side of the back seat which would be easy to do, but t'ing off the outlet and running a hose to the opposite side would force a tight bend. Mounting it to the manifold would make for the cleanest install if it can handle the weight. I can bring it up high enough that I wouldn't be concerned with the pump getting wet, plus I've never had a problem with getting much water in the boat even when rollers come over the bow. Sorry for all the questions[/QUOTE]

A Jabsco Ballast Puppy weights in at about 6 lbs, so hard-mounting them is a must. You would not want thier weight resting on other components. They also exert a fair amount of torque, especially when they first start to rotate.

When a tight hose bent is inevitable, I use a hose barb x hose barb elbow. Other wise, just lengthen the hose run and make a larger radius turn.

Instead of a "Y" diverter, I use a "T" diverter for what you are looking to do. I use one similar to whats pictured in the link. Inlet is on the bottom and the outlets are left and right.

http://www.flow-rite.com/files/Image/marine/v1-ql.jpg

I would mount the pump below the diverter. Then come out of the pump, into the bottom of the diverter. Now you got a straight exit out of the diverter going port and starboard to the lockers.

z28ke
04-22-2012, 02:14 PM
That's what I needed to know! Thanks again