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jmvotto
05-07-2012, 10:23 PM
I removed my factory installed kicker and going to put a 12 inch exile dvc to max the kicker amp 420 for now.

I pulled down the fake wall and look what is smack center of the wall, the chase wire hole...

I need a seeled 1.1 cu ft and really don't want to loose any foot room,storage.

Pics of humpless sub area. Are appreciated.

So far I came up with a wedged truck box mounted upside down and hole on the flat side to mount to the backside of the panel , of course enlarge the hole front 10 to 12 .

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/IMAG0207-5.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/IMAG0211-5.jpg

Nobodyrides4Free
05-08-2012, 08:10 AM
You think by now SC and other boat manufactures would figure out that people upgrade the stock stereos. They could accomodate this by placing wiring and whatnots in better places.

ian ashton
05-08-2012, 09:13 AM
Is it open under the floor a few inches back? I wonder if you can drill a new hole where you want it and fish the wires back. To save time you could cut a channel connecting the 2 holes, so you don't have to disconnect and re-connect everything. Are the wires and the vent in your way, or just the wires?

You should be able to get 1.1ft^3 out of that area EASILY (especially if the woofer in the picture is a 12).

I would go 1 of 2 routes;
1: Build feet for the box to raise it off the floor enough to clear those items. If its just the wires I'd say you can get away with 2" or so, if you need to go around the vent see option 2.

2: Build the box you want, then cut a channel out of the center so your box will fit around those items. When you calculate dimensions make sure go big, to account for the size of the channel you will cut.

Or, #3: Build the box as large as possible (I bet you can get 4ft^3 out of that area with some planning), put it on 3" feet, and go PORTED! I'm so glad I switched from sealed to ported, a major improvement.

jmvotto
05-08-2012, 09:30 AM
I thought sealed has more accurate bass. I need 1.1 sealed and 2.2 with a port

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

dusty2221
05-08-2012, 09:32 AM
Ian's recomendations were exactly what I would go with. We have the hump in our boat, but the wires/steering cable came right through the center just like yours. You could possibly build a similar hump so you would have something to place the hump on, and build it around the cables. There should be enough slack in them so you have some wiggle room, however be cautious not to move it to much from the original position and cause the steering cable to be in a bind or wear out prematurely.

You might also check with Earmark, as well as Youdaman. I know he has several Moomba's in the gallery online and I can assure you they don't have truck boxes wedged in. Might be of some help.

Not sure if these pics help, but here is how mine is done. Of course, pre-planned it in paint. My dimensions ended up changing after this pic, but I didn't take the time to update the drawing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/dusty2221/Boat/subb.jpg

I did not end up using the legs drawn in this picture. I used L brackets on the side, and compressed a few to less than a 90 degree bend and used them underneath, as well as attached thru the box to the hump.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/dusty2221/Boat/sub.jpg

This one shows how the box ends up elevated off the floor all the way to the hump, with the facade coming right past the box by and inch or so. Every inch of footroom is still there. After I built it, I realized I could have still made the box 2" deeper all the way around and gained alot more "size" but I wasn't sure so this is what I ended with.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/dusty2221/Boat/subside.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/dusty2221/Boat/sub1.jpg

The cutout on the right side of my box is where my heater hose comes thru to connect to the facade. On the side view, you can see the area of the hump that the box does not set on, that is where all my cables come thru. So everything is for the most part un-moved behind it in the factory position.

ian ashton
05-08-2012, 09:34 AM
What was your initial plan, to do like 24" wide, 18" high, and 6" deep? With all the space behind that seems like kind of a waste.


Looking at the picture and using my guesstimates for measurements, I'd do this;

Trapezoid shaped box;
Bottom length: 10"
Height: 18"
Top length: 18"
Depth: 10"

This will give you 1.45ft^3 before material thickness and driver displacement, likely getting you right where you want to be in the end.

http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=14204&d=1336484008


That's what I'd do, final answer (that is if you don't go ported.)

jmvotto
05-08-2012, 10:37 AM
Thanks guys this is really giving Mr a head ache. The sub in the pic is a 10. But I would really like it centered under the helm. Ian I like the creativity, really like to build around the wires.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

Cigars n scotch
05-08-2012, 10:41 AM
I know nothing about subs and building sub boxes but I am in the same boat with the wires right behind my kick panel.

But Ian, given your diagram isn't the mounting of the sub going to be off center? I'm assuming that the top length and right side is hugging the interior wall of the hull? So the sub would be more at your right leg?

Are other boat manufacturers doing something different with the placement of that hole for wire runs? It seems foolish to put it right in the middle.

dusty2221
05-08-2012, 10:51 AM
JM, that's the reason mine is designed the way it is, I also wanted the sub in the center. This is all I could come up with to have it centered with the steering wheel.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/dusty2221/DSCN0953.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/dusty2221/DSCN0965.jpg

KG's Supra24
05-08-2012, 10:53 AM
Cigars, do you have a hump? Dusty solution is a solid one but it needs the factory hump to be utilized.

I don't think being off to the right would be that big of an issue. Also, what are you centering with as their are alot of different focal points. You will make a fascia for it so its all uniform across the front anyways. Or you could put a sub on each side :cool: Or build a storage box, LED Moomba logo, etc to offset the sub being on the right side?

moombahighrider
05-08-2012, 11:31 AM
JM, what boat do you have (sorry, I'm on tapatalk and can't see your sig)? How hard was it to take the hump out completely? I am thinking about going this same route for the sub on my 08 lsv.

jmvotto
05-08-2012, 12:36 PM
2012 xlv, no hump in the newr models. they mounted a sub to a flat board and called it free air. my polk mounted in the hump on my obv sound 100x better...compartable perfoming subs.

jmvotto
05-08-2012, 09:18 PM
Here is what I am looking at , thanks to Ian and dusty it got the brain moving...

Any pros or cons from you expert builders.

1.1 cu ft sealed box. Smallest footprint of the three. Best way to deal with wires
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/subwedge.jpg

1.15 cu ft sealed.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/subrectangle.jpg

2.2 cu. ft ported may have o move forward and lose three to five niches of leg room.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/subwedgeport.jpg

Cigars n scotch
05-08-2012, 09:35 PM
Cigars, do you have a hump? Dusty solution is a solid one but it needs the factory hump to be utilized.

I don't think being off to the right would be that big of an issue. Also, what are you centering with as their are alot of different focal points. You will make a fascia for it so its all uniform across the front anyways. Or you could put a sub on each side :cool: Or build a storage box, LED Moomba logo, etc to offset the sub being on the right side?

Edit: I read Votto's post above and it seems by hump I was thinking of that thing on the right that the kick panel that it screws into but I am guessing no, it seems there's an"actual" hump on some models.

Mine is open like Votto's.

I have a Supra so I wouldn't be putting any LED Moomba logo on the panel. Now an LED Supra logo, hmmm, might be tempted.

jmvotto
05-09-2012, 03:20 PM
looks like i am going with option one or a similar version.

Dang this exile sub is niooce!! 12 DVC 12xi

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/IMAG0233.jpg
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/IMAG0234.jpg

ChrisK
05-09-2012, 03:31 PM
jmvotto, I may have missed it earlier in this thread, but what materials are you using to construct the box?

dusty2221
05-09-2012, 03:32 PM
My, what a beautiful sub you have there.

:)

jmvotto
05-09-2012, 03:55 PM
3/4 mdf and seal it will a couple coats of resin inside and out , then carpet it grey to blend in.

mmandley
05-09-2012, 05:33 PM
looks like i am going with option one or a similar version.

Dang this exile sub is niooce!! 12 DVC 12xi

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/IMAG0233.jpg
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/IMAG0234.jpg


BOOM BOOM POW baby.

ian ashton
05-09-2012, 06:44 PM
3/4 mdf and seal it will a couple coats of resin inside and out , then carpet it grey to blend in.

MDF will soak up water, no matter how much resin you coat it with. My first box had a full gallon of resin inside and out and it still got destroyed by water. I would (and did) go with a nice ply, like Birch.

jmvotto
05-09-2012, 08:16 PM
I plan on putting feet on it to get it off the floor a bit. With the xlv freeboard I should not have to worry about waves over the bow.... Famous last words.

Why would the resin not protect the wood. I was told it would waterproof it.

dusty2221
05-09-2012, 08:50 PM
I'd build it out of ply as well. Go that route first and save some headache. Moisture is a beast...it gets where it wants when it wants.

EarmarkMarine
05-10-2012, 09:49 AM
jm,
Polyester resin is micro porous. Epoxy resin is a little better. If your boat had no gelcoat coating to seal the resin/glass hull it would sink like a rock.
You can build a resin-coated mdf box and run a hose over it continuously with no problem....IF drainage is part of the equation and if the box execution is perfect, ie; no seams, no staple/nail/screw depressions, radiused edges, etc. But a boat is a little different. It's a sauna under cover with a little moisture in the bilge. With a rare roller over the bow water gets everywhere. If the box sits on carpet you have a mold and mildew trap that will wick up moisture through any coating and will eventually delaminate even the best grade of solvent based ply. Don't use automotive carpet in any case as it will hold moisture. If carpeting use only a marine grade mildew resistant rubber-backed carpet. Again, the materials are important but the construction and installation details are critical in any case.

David
Earmark Marine



I plan on putting feet on it to get it off the floor a bit. With the xlv freeboard I should not have to worry about waves over the bow.... Famous last words.

Why would the resin not protect the wood. I was told it would waterproof it.

jmvotto
05-10-2012, 10:05 AM
David,

Thanks for the input. I can change the materials. Should I go plywood instead of mdf?

Will the sound be audible in differences. What does earmark use on there sealed boxes for material.

EarmarkMarine
05-10-2012, 10:38 AM
We use resin-coated or polyurethane-coated (real bed liner) mdf with all the disciplines that I described and quite a few more. We have products in the market that have not failed since '98. As an upgrade we use MEDEX which is a solvent-based construction fiberboard. The MEDEX has greater water resistance and holds screws better than standard mdf. Either is highly acoustically inert. MDO, a ply product, is the equivalent of the MEDEX. I would still coat anything. If you use 0.75" stock I cannot see how the sound will differ. Again, focus on the execution of making a perfect box no matter what you use. No caulked holes to pass the wire. Elevate the box. Build in drainage and evaporation. No automotive carpet. etc.

David
Earmark Marine



David,

Thanks for the input. I can change the materials. Should I go plywood instead of mdf?

Will the sound be audible in differences. What does earmark use on there sealed boxes for material.

jmvotto
05-10-2012, 11:06 AM
Build in drainage and evaporation.

David
Earmark Marine

Not sure what this means in a sealed enclosure?
Joe

EarmarkMarine
05-10-2012, 11:10 AM
Elevating the enclosure off the sole with HDPE pads and always maintaining space between the enclosure and carpeted surfaces.

David
Earmark Marine


Not sure what this means in a sealed enclosure?
Joe

jmvotto
05-10-2012, 12:51 PM
got it drainage of the boat with clearance vs the internal speaker drainage.

Thanks gain for chiming in on this..

New Guy
05-10-2012, 02:16 PM
For elevation use hockey pucks they are cheap, easily accessible and durable.

Cigars n scotch
05-10-2012, 10:04 PM
For elevation use hockey pucks they are cheap, easily accessible and durable.

That is a pretty good idea

EarmarkMarine
05-11-2012, 03:18 PM
Hockey pucks? That's just typical of the northern region. Here in Texas we elevate our sub enclosures with stacked armadillo scutes.

jpetty3023
05-11-2012, 03:20 PM
Hockey pucks? That's just typical of the northern region. Here in Texas we elevate our sub enclosures with stacked armadillo scutes.

Or some good ol fashion horse shoes


Sent from my home phone..

jmvotto
05-18-2012, 11:08 PM
Got built last week, waiting for Marine carpet from SC to match .

Heard is tested on a 300 watt car amp in a Tahoe And. I was more than impressed with tightness and low end. Exil delivers on the 12

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/IMAG0250-4.jpg
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/IMAG0251-3.jpg

Yes I know the the grille is sideways ...

jmvotto
05-28-2012, 10:35 PM
Grille fixed , installed Friday in the xlv, sounds great. With all the angle planning the wire would not budge much so I did loose one foot space. This thing sounds great. Of course the grey oem matching carpet from sc showed up at my house,while we were at the lake house for the long weekend.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/85549fad.jpg

Cigars n scotch
05-29-2012, 12:32 PM
Looks great! Nice job.

dusty2221
05-29-2012, 12:52 PM
Looks great Jm!

New Guy
05-30-2012, 11:09 AM
That turned out great!

jmvotto
05-30-2012, 11:21 AM
thanks everyone. the sound is terrific as well.
i think i almost got it dialed in.

Brianinpdx
05-30-2012, 12:24 PM
Jm - I just read through your thread... sounds like the install journey is finished. overall are you pleased with your result? I think I a lot of guys can learn from this. I can't remember, how much power do you have behind your Xi12d?

-Brian
Exile Audio

jmvotto
05-30-2012, 10:02 PM
Jm - I just read through your thread... sounds like the install journey is finished. overall are you pleased with your result? I think I a lot of guys can learn from this. I can't remember, how much power do you have behind your Xi12d?

-Brian
Exile Audio

The kicker 700.5 so at 2 ohms it's at 420 watts. It has plenty of as mike says" BOOM BOOM POW".....

Brianinpdx
05-30-2012, 10:48 PM
oh boy ... time to double down on that power for the Xi12. She's under powered. I see a future upgrade in your future. I'm sure it sounds plenty fine with 400W tho. Nothing wrong with that by any means :>

jmvotto
05-30-2012, 10:51 PM
oh boy ... time to double down on that power for the Xi12. She's under powered. I see a future upgrade in your future. I'm sure it sounds plenty fine with 400W tho. Nothing wrong with that by any means :>

Yep we talked about cabin amp and sub amp upgrades, prolly next season.....

04OUTBACK
05-31-2012, 08:53 AM
Suzy says he's done! ;-)

Looks great joe

jmvotto
05-31-2012, 09:52 AM
Suzy says he's done! ;-)

Looks great joe

So true..... LOL

jmvotto
11-04-2012, 10:17 PM
Here is the pic deleted from above from this summer

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/5d28c3e2.jpg

I pulled the sub to bed line the box on top of the resin and carpet it with sc matching grey carpet.

Finally got to it and with a recommendation here I bought some cool speaker posts from parts express .

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/5BAA3B8D-874D-4F1D-BB2D-6238A34CFC9B-9715-000009F1B8C228A0.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/23CD577E-72F8-4C54-BFEE-9787D3699F32-9715-000009F1BEA42758.jpg

jmvotto
11-04-2012, 10:20 PM
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/8FC068DB-2DBE-446C-B607-3C3EB080BE16-9715-000009F1C3F5C881.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/E1D1F08B-4A82-49A7-ADE2-AAB9A1ECCE3F-9715-000009F1C84A6DF9.jpg


http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/9110DCCC-A181-49C7-BB43-473D86273C47-9715-000009F1CDBF398C.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/CDFFB679-14E7-4F94-A51A-A1C8945473C2-9715-000009F1D2C2505D.jpg

jmvotto
11-04-2012, 10:25 PM
More

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/478AA405-198A-49B1-A518-A330A1760F5F-9715-000009F1D702B5F8.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/3D3B5B9B-3351-43B3-9C74-E37FA2269E44-9715-000009F1DD4A0121.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/E2869743-0ACC-4E27-9BBF-3309E3BE1A5A-9715-000009F1E2D6E12C.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/2C0EE435-3CA0-4825-90B3-D41FA4B3C2D2-9715-000009F1E81E5647.jpg

moombadaze
11-05-2012, 08:34 AM
Joe, looks great and thanks for posting these photo's, you may have solved my sub placement issue. going to do some measuring when I get home.

jmvotto
11-05-2012, 08:44 AM
Joe, looks great and thanks for posting these photo's, you may have solved my sub placement issue. going to do some measuring when I get home.

let me know if you need the dimensions. I wish the sub was mounted on the flat side of the box. maybe it was by design to have the sub bounce off a flat surface. Mine fits well, the wires restrict the depth thus the upside down wedge shape. sounds great.

moombadaze
11-05-2012, 09:52 AM
Joe, did you reuse the factory panel and just box the back side in ?

jmvotto
11-05-2012, 10:53 AM
Joe, did you reuse the factory panel and just box the back side in ?

Yes, and increased it from a 10 to a 12" to accomadate the new exile sub. its the black plastic board , but a coated carpeted or vinyled birch ply would work also.

Boonejeepin
11-05-2012, 11:33 AM
I would love dimensions.

jmvotto
11-05-2012, 03:08 PM
I would love dimensions.

check post #13

I used the first basic option, except the shop pt the sub on the angled side insted of the flat side liked I asked.
I did not have time to build it myself after i found out the factory sub was pretty lousy in open air. so I "subbed" it out do to time restraints LOL i will measure the eaxct tonight for ya.

jmvotto
11-12-2012, 07:45 PM
Measurements are close to my first drawing 20 wide by 17.5 height. 5.5 on the bottom and 9.5 on the top for the wedge. These are all outer diameter measurement .

Woody929
03-30-2014, 03:48 PM
Yes, and increased it from a 10 to a 12" to accomadate the new exile sub. its the black plastic board , but a coated carpeted or vinyled birch ply would work also.

Joe,
Did you glue this to your box, or are the screws around the sub holding it in place?

jmvotto
03-31-2014, 09:34 AM
Joe,
Did you glue this to your box, or are the screws around the sub holding it in place?

I used the sub screws to hold it in place, worked just fine.

MichiganMoomba
05-19-2014, 10:09 AM
Measurements are close to my first drawing 20 wide by 17.5 height. 5.5 on the bottom and 9.5 on the top for the wedge. These are all outer diameter measurement .

Looks perfect for what I'm looking for. Thanks for the measurements. Here comes another project.