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View Full Version : Attwood T800 directly to ball valve?



mnpracing
07-02-2012, 06:23 PM
Was planning to mount a T-800 (from wakemakers) directly to a ball valve to fill my IBS and noticed that the T800 has straight threads and the ball valve has tapered threads. Any issues with making this connection? Attwood makes p/n 4653 which is the T800 with NPT threads. Do I need to get the NPT threaded T-800?

brain_rinse
07-02-2012, 06:57 PM
People do it all the time (though that doesn't make it right). If it were me I'd get the right threads. You probably know this but remember that you can't cut tapered threads shorter so make sure your sizes will work.

mnpracing
07-02-2012, 07:00 PM
People do it all the time (though that doesn't make it right). If it were me I'd get the right threads. You probably know this but remember that you can't cut tapered threads shorter so make sure your sizes will work.

Thanks Dan, I think I'll order the p/n with the right threads. Hey thanks again for the pics you sent of your setup. Helped immensely.

brain_rinse
07-02-2012, 08:18 PM
No problem, glad the pics helped. Looking forward to seeing some pics of your completed setup. What all do you have planned?

MLA
07-02-2012, 10:06 PM
Is your ball-valve straight or pipe threads?

jmvotto
07-02-2012, 11:45 PM
Why not just get an adapter?

mnpracing
07-03-2012, 12:50 AM
Why not just get an adapter?

Not sure I follow but I'm not very knowledgable when it comes to plumbing. Is there an adapter with NPT on one side and NPS on the other?

mnpracing
07-03-2012, 01:00 AM
No problem, glad the pics helped. Looking forward to seeing some pics of your completed setup. What all do you have planned?

Basic setup is:
1. iBS plumbed with dedicated fill pump and two drain pumps ( one on each leg). 3/4" lines with separate switch.
2. 1100's in the rears with dedicated T1200s. 1" lines. Drains are Rule 1100s with one inch lines.
3. Center bag on dedicated fill pump with 3/4" lines

Nothing too complicated but some thing that speeds fill times a bit and allows automation of the IBS. Still have to fill a 400 on the seats but not sure how to get around that other than a custom Enzo-style sac.

mnpracing
07-03-2012, 01:02 AM
Is your ball-valve straight or pipe threads?

Ball valve is pipe threads as is the thru- hull fitting.

jmvotto
07-03-2012, 01:20 AM
I would assume there is. Lowes carriers tons of different adapters

http://www.lowes.com/pd_34753-104-A-669_0__?productId=3134239&Ntt=3%2F4+adapters&pl=1&currentURL=&facetInfo=

mnpracing
07-03-2012, 05:10 PM
Anyone know for sure if the stock 3/4" ballast intake scupper is pipe threads or standard threads? I want to T off this intake and I bought a pipe thread T, but wanted to find out if the intake was NPT as well before I started disassembling. Thanks.

jmvotto
07-03-2012, 05:15 PM
pretty sure mine was standard t pipe

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/IMAG0171-3.jpg

brain_rinse
07-03-2012, 05:20 PM
Basic setup is:
1. iBS plumbed with dedicated fill pump and two drain pumps ( one on each leg). 3/4" lines with separate switch.
2. 1100's in the rears with dedicated T1200s. 1" lines. Drains are Rule 1100s with one inch lines.
3. Center bag on dedicated fill pump with 3/4" lines

Nothing too complicated but some thing that speeds fill times a bit and allows automation of the IBS. Still have to fill a 400 on the seats but not sure how to get around that other than a custom Enzo-style sac.
Sounds like a winner to me. I need to upgrade my rear drains on the 1100 bags. Let me know how this works out for you. Are you switching to 1" thru hull ports then?

jmvotto
07-03-2012, 05:21 PM
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/IMAG0161-2.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/IMAG0160-2.jpg

mnpracing
07-03-2012, 05:34 PM
Sounds like a winner to me. I need to upgrade my rear drains on the 1100 bags. Let me know how this works out for you. Are you switching to 1" thru hull ports then?

Yes, I did the drains last season. I changed the drain thru-hulls to 1" ports and all the lines (drain and fill) to 1". To drill out the 3/4" ports to 1", I put a cork in the hole so that the hole saw bit had something to bite on to; worked like a champ. Someone on the forums here suggested that, and it worked great. One note on the drain pumps. I am using the 1100 Rules from wakemakers, but I'm going to switch one of them to the T1200 for comparison. I feel like Rule is not pumping out very fast, and I'm only thinking that because the water doesn't shoot out very far from the boat when draining. Could just be that it's a 1" column of water so thus it doesn't go out as far, but I want to compare it to the T1200.

mnpracing
07-03-2012, 05:35 PM
Jmvotto, that's perfect, thanks for the pics!

MLA
07-03-2012, 10:05 PM
Yes, I did the drains last season. I changed the drain thru-hulls to 1" ports and all the lines (drain and fill) to 1". To drill out the 3/4" ports to 1", I put a cork in the hole so that the hole saw bit had something to bite on to; worked like a champ. Someone on the forums here suggested that, and it worked great. One note on the drain pumps. I am using the 1100 Rules from wakemakers, but I'm going to switch one of them to the T1200 for comparison. I feel like Rule is not pumping out very fast, and I'm only thinking that because the water doesn't shoot out very far from the boat when draining. Could just be that it's a 1" column of water so thus it doesn't go out as far, but I want to compare it to the T1200.

Dont bother switching. Ive done the flow testing on the Rule 1100 and the Attwood T1200 and the Rule is faster. Heres the just of the testing that I posted on another forum back on Sept. 2011.


Ballast Pump Flow Comparison

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I was able to finely get some time this weekend to do some flow comparisons amongst some of the common ballast pumps used.

In this test, I used an Attwood Tsunami T800, T1200 and a Rule 1100 All 3 are common live-well style Aerator pumps used for ballast installs.

I have been wanting to do this anyway, but it moved to the forefront this weekend when it was posted in another thread that the Rule pumps were always over rated, as there is no standard of measuring that is used. Well, doing some investigation, I fond two interesting things: 1) Rule does not list a standard of measurement used to rate their pumps (but that doesnt mean they are over rated). The next bit of info was the most interesting. I found that Rule is under the same parent company as Jabsco, ITT Flow Control, and that in the flow rating for the Jabsco, there to is no std of measurement listed. So, is it safe to say that the Jabsco Ballast Puppy too is over rated?????? Well, we will have to answer that question later, as I did not break out the only Puppy I have on hand and test it, but i will here at some point.

Here is how I laid the test out. I tried to make at as real-world as possible, so I set up a mock ballast setup.

I used a Fly High W713 v-drive sac rated @ 400 lbs
5 gal bucket fed by hose as water supply
deep-cycle battery with 2A trickle charge
5' fill hose from pump to top of sac
2' hose from vent on top of sac.

The water supply was lower then sac, typical of a ballast install, and the vent was higher then sac. Sac was drain dry between each test. The clock started as soon as the pump was turned on, and the clock was stopped as soon as I had a steady flow from the vent. Each pump was run 3 times to get an average. For the Rule and T1200, I used 1" hose and 1" fly High quick-connect fittings. For the T800, I used both 1" and 3/4" hose slid over the threads, as well as 3/4 hose on the supplied 3/4" barbed fitting. For on of the T1200 tests, I also used the Fly High W747 3/4" sac valve threads x 1-1/8" Tsunami threads adapter.

Rule 405FC 1100 GPH pump. 3/4" threaded inlet and a 1-1/8" outlet and 1" hose: 4:29 avg fill time.

Attwood Tsunami T1200 pump. 1-1/8 inlet and 1-1/8 outlet and 1" hose: 4:37 avg fill time.

Attwood Tsunami T1200 pump. 1-1/8 inlet and 1-1/8 outlet and 1" hose and W747 adapter: 4:44 avg fill time.

Attwood Tsunami T800 pump. 3/4" inlet and outlet with 1" hose. 4:57 avg fill time.

Attwood Tsunami T800 pump. 3/4" inlet and outlet with 3/4' hose and 3/4 Fly High quick-connects. 5:11 avg fill time

Attwood Tsunami T800 pump. 3/4" inlet and outlet with 3/4' hose and 3/4 Fly High quick-connects and the supplied 3/4 hose-barb connection on the outlet of the pump. 5:25 avg fill time.

Two surprises, here! 1, the Rule 1100 was actually faster then the Tsunami T1200. Not by alot, but IMO, certainly not well over rated 2, the W747 adapter did not slow the T1200 flow down as much as I expected. This is great news, because with the use of the adapter, you can easily mate this pump right to a 3/4" thru-hull setup, and not loose a ton of volume.

Again, this was not meant to be scientific, but simply to compare these pumps flow rates in what is as close to a real world situation as possible. So, take the info with a grain of salt.

kaneboats
07-05-2012, 12:53 AM
Good stuff. Thanks for sharing it.

bergermaister
07-05-2012, 02:53 PM
Could just be that it's a 1" column of water so thus it doesn't go out as far, but I want to compare it to the T1200.

Looks like MLA has it down. I noticed that with my old 3/4" lines out the back for draining it was more of a pressure spray shooting out a few feet, even with just the little Rule 700 powering it.

With the T-1200 on a one inch drain line it's more like a, uh, ever seen a cow taking a piss?

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1070816.jpg

wolfeman131
07-05-2012, 03:13 PM
L
With the T-1200 on a one inch drain line it's more like a, uh, ever seen a cow taking a piss?

Pleasant mental image as I sit down for lunch.

rdlangston13
07-05-2012, 08:50 PM
im still curious how low yall have these aerator pumps mounted in order to get prime without the scupper and forward motion method the stock system requires...

MLA
07-05-2012, 09:12 PM
im still curious how low yall have these aerator pumps mounted in order to get prime without the scupper and forward motion method the stock system requires...

The trick is to have a constant uphill travel all the way from the thru-hull to the pumps outlet. If the pump is below the waterline, and air is allowed to pass through it and out the outlet, then the pump will prime without forced induction by a scoop.

If you have the bilge depth, mount the pump directly on top of the ball-valve. If not, then use a 90* elbow between the t-hull and valve, then the pump. Just be sure to keep that upward travel. If the elbow is higher then the pump body, then an air pocket will be trapped in the top of the elbow.

bergermaister
07-06-2012, 02:28 AM
im still curious how low yall have these aerator pumps mounted in order to get prime without the scupper and forward motion method the stock system requires...

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1060975.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k414/grberglund/MoombaMobiusV/P1070279.jpg