View Full Version : Relocate GIII switches
07-14-2012, 04:46 PM
I am thinking about moving the ballast switches in my '07 LSV from their original location to the panel next to arm rest. I have searched old threads and haven't found anything. The only possible problem I've thought of is that they could get bumped by a stray elbow. Otherwise it would make for a much handier location. Anybody got some helpful advice? Thanks
07-14-2012, 09:40 PM
Cab did this search his threads I will try and find it
07-15-2012, 02:07 AM
Yup, I did this. Below is the thread. And your concern about a stray elbow accidentally hitting a switch is a valid one so I used a spare switch on the dash as a main power switch for the GIII switches. Once the ballast is the way I want it, I flip the dash switch to cut power to the GIII switches. Works like a charm.
07-15-2012, 02:17 AM
And here is the thread about adding a main power switch for the GIII switches.
07-15-2012, 10:57 AM
Al, that is exactly what I've got in mind. And adding a power switch is a great idea. Thanks a lot for your help.
07-19-2012, 03:01 PM
15442 I got the ballast switches relocated today. Thanks Al for the walking me thru it. I was a bit lazier and rather than remove the panel after cutting the hole in it, I used a roto-zip bit in router to cut the hole in the fiberglass. Also, to cover the original hole I got a a push plate for a door at Lowes. It measured 3 1/2"x 15" so it's big enough to give you 2 chances to cut it and drill holes correctly (which my dumb a$$ needed). Even better, 2 of the holes are already in correct position, so you only have to measure and drill 2. Anyway, now it's time to tackle the swivel seat mod. With luck I can get that done tomorrow and be ready to hit the lake. Also Al, I like that you switched out the battery and the wake plate gauges, I gotta get that done too, just makes a ton of sense.
07-19-2012, 03:24 PM
Great job Scott. And good idea on the door plate. I put a cheesy plastic tray to cover the hole temporarily (and it's still there :) ). I keep my cell phone and wallet there so it's functional, if not attractive.
07-19-2012, 06:27 PM
Great job Scott. And good idea on the door plate.
Agree! Nice work.
07-20-2012, 11:59 AM
Thanks guys. I just finished my swivel seat and was able to get a full 180 degrees of rotation so I can kick legs up on the back seat.1544915450
07-20-2012, 04:18 PM
Looking sweet Scott,
I burned out an inpeller on my new ballast pump last week, someones foot hit it. DOH!!! So im seriously considering the ballast switch mod now.
What thread or where did you get the swivel seat mod from. I know Newty did it but i wasnt sure if you reread a thread. Other wise got a list of parts or where you got them from? I think its time i did this mod as well.
07-20-2012, 07:07 PM
I went with the thread that Newty posted, I know someone else did it too but I could never get their pics to download on my computer, for some reason I can't always get the attachments included in some threads. I got the Bass Pro seat swivel for 9.99 ( I'll see how it holds up), I got a 5/16" aluminum plate 9"x13" at Metal by the foot and 1" angle cut 9" long, costing $30. I used a cheap poly cutting board that I got at Walmart for $3, I cut that to match swivel and took Newty's advice and cut another piece to double up the spacing. I think the cutting board was 5/16" thick. I got all bolts and nuts at Lowe's, The screws that go into boat seat attaching 2 pieces of cutting board and swivel are 1/4-20x 1 1/2" and are perfect once you tighten 'em down with driver- if you screw in by hand they appear too long. Step by step goes like this: 1- remove seat cushion and remove seat.
2-cut the cuting board(2) and attach them and swivel to seat, I used the 4 center holes in seat, with 4 sets it gives you a few options to play with.
3- drill holes in plate and attach it to slide rail ( I centered mine)- leave out all 4 poly spacers that were originally there and place 1" angle just forward of the back bolts
4- place the seat and swivel assembly on plate and play with positioning until you get it where you like, then mark and drill holes in the plate
5- attach the plate to the seat assembly
6- attach that entire assembly to the slide rail
7- get a cold brew, swivel around, kick feet up on rear seat and take a drink or more
Parts list: 5/16" aluminum plate 9"x13"
1" angle aluminum 9" long
seat swivel- most will work just chek bolt pattern on seat bottom (mine is 5x5)
4- 1/4-20x1 1/2" machine screw and washers to attach swivel and cutting board to seat
4- 1/4x1" carriage bolt and washers to attach swivel to plate
2- carriage bolts original diameter as front 2 in slide rail but you need them 1 1/4" long
I think that's got it, if I left something out let me know. Pics should help.
07-21-2012, 11:45 AM
One thing I forgot to list in parts was 4 lock nuts for the 1" carriage bolts
07-21-2012, 08:06 PM
And 1 more update the 2 carriage bolts for front I used are 5/16"x1" and I used lock nuts on them as well. And one more mod I completed today was switching the wake plate gauge with the battery gauge. Now it's time to hit the water tomorrow.15491
And one more mod I completed today was switching the wake plate gauge with the battery gauge. Now it's time to hit the water tomorrow.15491
How much wire, if any, did you have to add to do the gauge swap??
07-23-2012, 07:28 AM
I used around 16' of 14 AWG. I ended up splicing 8 wires for mine. We took our boat out yesterday and it is well worth the effort put in to switching them around.
As soon as I can I'm switching them around too. Just wanted to make sure my wire was long enough...;)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0 Copyright © 2015 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.