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KINGCOBRA
07-26-2012, 09:31 AM
I went with the thread that Newty posted, I know someone else did it too but I could never get their pics to download on my computer, for some reason I can't always get the attachments included in some threads. I got the Bass Pro seat swivel for 9.99 ( I'll see how it holds up), I got a 5/16" aluminum plate 9"x13" at Metal by the foot and 1" angle cut 9" long, costing $30. I used a cheap poly cutting board that I got at Walmart for $3, I cut that to match swivel and took Newty's advice and cut another piece to double up the spacing. I think the cutting board was 5/16" thick. I got all bolts and nuts at Lowe's, The screws that go into boat seat attaching 2 pieces of cutting board and swivel are 1/4-20x 1 1/2" and are perfect once you tighten 'em down with driver- if you screw in by hand they appear too long. Step by step goes like this: 1- remove seat cushion and remove seat.
2-cut the cuting board(2) and attach them and swivel to seat, I used the 4 center holes in seat, with 4 sets it gives you a few options to play with.
3- drill holes in plate and attach it to slide rail ( I centered mine)- leave out all 4 poly spacers that were originally there and place 1" angle just forward of the back bolts
4- place the seat and swivel assembly on plate and play with positioning until you get it where you like, then mark and drill holes in the plate
5- attach the plate to the seat assembly
6- attach that entire assembly to the slide rail
7- get a cold brew, swivel around, kick feet up on rear seat and take a drink or 2 or.....
Parts list:
5/16" aluminum plate 9"x13"
1" angle aluminum 9" long
seat swivel- most will work just check bolt pattern on seat bottom (mine is 5x5)
cutting board
4- 1/4-20x1 1/2" machine screw and washers to attach swivel and cutting board to seat
4- 1/4x1" carriage bolt and washers and lock nuts to attach swivel to plate
2- carriage bolts 5/16x 1" to replace the original 2 in front slide holes
I think that's got it,Pics should help.
1555015551155521555315554

KINGCOBRA
07-26-2012, 09:51 AM
155551555615557Only problem we had with the non-locking swivel was when surfing the seat wants to turn to the side that is weighted down. It really wasn't a problem for me, but my wife has shorter legs and had to work to brace herself. A comfortable driver makes a better driver, so I decided to add a removable peg to hold seat in forward position if so desired. I used some spare 3/4 aluminum angle bar I had. I mounted that to the holes in the seat on right side that were originally used to mount to the slide rail. I made it long enough to stick out beyond seat about 3", but short enough to be covered up by the bolster when it's down. I then lined up the hole I drilled into the angle bar with the aluminum plate and drilled that hole. Then insert peg and you have a fixed seat again.0

kaneboats
07-26-2012, 10:22 AM
Brilliant! This is next on my list after I move my check valves to fix my non-priming issue on my two surf bag pumps. Gotta have me some swivel action.

brain_rinse
07-26-2012, 10:41 AM
Nice work, and great pics! For us that haven't done this yet could you just get a locking swivel or would that create other problems? Would another piece of cutting board work in place of the aluminum plate?

mnpracing
07-26-2012, 10:57 AM
Brilliant! This is next on my list after I move my check valves to fix my non-priming issue on my two surf bag pumps. Gotta have me some swivel action.

Kane can you describe what you have to do to the check valves to fix the issue?

E4NASH
07-26-2012, 11:27 AM
EXCELLENT! I have the swivel and the cutting boards I just need to get the bolts and the metal. This is exactly what I needed to see!


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kaneboats
07-26-2012, 12:20 PM
Kane can you describe what you have to do to the check valves to fix the issue?

According to Moombadaze's theory I have to move my check valves way closer to the bag and farther from the pumps.

moombahighrider
07-26-2012, 02:51 PM
I used a locking swivel and it works great. It locks in multiple positions all the way around. I think I got it from overtons or some place similar.

brain_rinse
07-26-2012, 02:57 PM
I used a locking swivel and it works great. It locks in multiple positions all the way around. I think I got it from overtons or some place similar.
Got pics? Curious where the handle to release the lock is at and how it looks.

KINGCOBRA
07-26-2012, 03:18 PM
Nice work, and great pics! For us that haven't done this yet could you just get a locking swivel or would that create other problems? Would another piece of cutting board work in place of the aluminum plate? I don't think a cutting board in place of the metal plate would be rigid enough to support the weight of the seat and driver. It isn't mounted flat onto the slide rail, so the plate has to be strong enough not to flex (2nd pic). The reason that you don't mount it flat is to be able to slide seat back and forth. I used aluminum mainly because it's a bit easier to work with than steel, although a steel plate could be a bit thinner, I believe Newty said his was 3/16" thick. Hope that helps.

brain_rinse
07-26-2012, 03:38 PM
I don't think a cutting board in place of the metal plate would be rigid enough to support the weight of the seat and driver. It isn't mounted flat onto the slide rail, so the plate has to be strong enough not to flex (2nd pic). The reason that you don't mount it flat is to be able to slide seat back and forth. I used aluminum mainly because it's a bit easier to work with than steel, although a steel plate could be a bit thinner, I believe Newty said his was 3/16" thick. Hope that helps.
Perfect - thanks!

E4NASH
07-26-2012, 06:21 PM
How exactly does the plate mount on the rail? I know screws or bolts but where does it mount? Do you have to drill new holes?


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moombahighrider
07-26-2012, 07:21 PM
I used 1/4" metal plate, as I was concerned about the strength issue and I'm a bigger guy. I simply measured the plate to be wide enough and long enough to bolt to the factory holes on the sliders and then used the swivel part as a template and centered it on the plate (I think). End result was that in the forward position, the seat is at the same place it would be without the swivel part, just an inch or so higher.
As far as the swivel part mounting to the seat base, I am a little foggy on that, but I believe that I had to drill new holes in the base so that the seat matched/ lined up with the swivel holes. I will look at the boat and refresh my memory this weekend. I will also be sure to take some photos to document my efforts/ where the levers are and such.

KINGCOBRA
07-26-2012, 08:15 PM
[QUOTE=E4NASH;187856]How exactly does the plate mount on the rail? I know screws or bolts but where does it mount? Do you have to drill new holes? As moombahighrider said the plate mounts to the slide rail using original holes. The bottom of my seat has 4 pairs of pre-drilled and machined holes which lining 4 of them up makes a 5"x5" square and the swivel has elongated holes that are able to line up with that pattern and possibly a 4x4 or 6x6 pattern. i'll attach a pic and you can see the swivel mounted to seat and in left and right you can see the holes that I didn't use (they have silver threads in them) I mounted seat to the center set of those holes.15558

jmvotto
07-26-2012, 10:11 PM
Do all models require the angle brace to level the base, funny that all the seats slope bow to stern..

chawk610
07-27-2012, 11:43 AM
Great mod!!

HEY Where is Newty??? Haven't heard from him in a while have we?

kaneboats
07-27-2012, 12:16 PM
Chooo Chooo.

newty
07-27-2012, 02:23 PM
Nice! That's exactly how I did mine.

Here I am! Just finished all my on the job training and passed my conductors final/certification for the RR. Hoping to get a little more moomba time coming up.

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E4NASH
07-27-2012, 04:01 PM
Just got my seat in...don't know if I'm going to keep it though. All of the bolts are tight but there seems to be a LOT of movement in the swivel itself. Not sure if it is because it is a cheap swivel or what. Now the seat is shakey and feels cheap. Does anyone else have this problem. I worry about all that play eventually causing damage...


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chawk610
07-27-2012, 04:59 PM
Nice! That's exactly how I did mine.

Here I am! Just finished all my on the job training and passed my conductors final/certification for the RR. Hoping to get a little more moomba time coming up.

Sent from my duhroid

Congrats Newty!

jpetty3023
07-27-2012, 05:06 PM
Welcome back Newty

moombahighrider
07-27-2012, 07:42 PM
I have to say mine is/ was shaky too. I had to do some ingenious work on the swivel to stop it from falling apart (mine has a plastic spacer that separates the two halves and that spacer would get caught and come out, creating even more play). Once I repaired that, it was a ton better, but still has a little play.
I would like to see the part that the mojo and new lsv seat comes with, but I'm sure it is different and won't work for my application. In the end, if one could find a high end swivel that is of a different manufacture or design, it might be worth the extra cost.

E4NASH
07-27-2012, 08:25 PM
Yeah that's the same type of swivel this is. My ingenious work was to just take it out. Bummer really thought that would be a nice have. Oh well...if you've never had it you won't miss it...


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KINGCOBRA
07-27-2012, 10:22 PM
Yeah that's the same type of swivel this is. My ingenious work was to just take it out. Bummer really thought that would be a nice have. Oh well...if you've never had it you won't miss it...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk If you've never had it you won't miss it, but if you have had it before, especially on a boat well below the standards of these boats, you will definitely miss it. Point being, my wife is not much of a detail oriented person on a lot of things with the boat, but upon driving this boat her only complaint was that the seat was not a swivel. It is not a necessity but it is freakin' nice to be able to turn the seat around and kick your feet up. Newty said to avoid the poly insert swivel, so I did and gotta say I love this mod. Was that too much passion? I've had a couple gin&tonics.

kaneboats
07-28-2012, 12:20 AM
Allright. Where the heck do you get the 9 x 13 piece of aluminum? Everybody says they got it from work. I looked around the office today and couldn't find one. Checked behind the water cooler; under the boss's desk (don't ask what else I found there) and even in the conference room by the globe. No dice. So where do you get one of these????

KINGCOBRA
07-28-2012, 09:31 AM
Allright. Where the heck do you get the 9 x 13 piece of aluminum? Everybody says they got it from work. I looked around the office today and couldn't find one. Checked behind the water cooler; under the boss's desk (don't ask what else I found there) and even in the conference room by the globe. No dice. So where do you get one of these???? Have you checked the back seat of his car? I got mine at a metal supply shop called Metal BY The Foot, the sell all sorts of metal in any quantity. Any metal supply shop should have it or a fabrication/machine shop might have a piece big enough that they would sell you. The place I got mine had a scrap bin with a bunch of left-overs in it, but I couldn't find what I needed in it. The cool thing about the place where I got mine is that they cut it to size, all I had to do was drill holes in it. Good hunting.

parrothd
07-28-2012, 11:00 AM
I use this place..They ship.. :)

http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/

ian ashton
07-28-2012, 05:47 PM
I just finished mine too, but did it a little different. I made my adapter out of 1" Starboard. It works awesome, I'm so gla I finally did it.



http://img.tapatalk.com/18c01843-5da2-5f03.jpg
I also cut a channel into the end and added blue LEDs all around :)

http://img.tapatalk.com/18c01843-5dc6-0301.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/18c01843-5dd3-81b5.jpg

It actually rotates 180 degrees, just don't have a pic.

moombahighrider
07-28-2012, 05:52 PM
That's cool with the LEDs. Should look great at night!!!

moombahighrider
07-28-2012, 07:35 PM
Got pics? Curious where the handle to release the lock is at and how it looks.

You can see the two levers here. The one towards the bow is the factory slide lever. The other is obviously the swivel lever.
15581

Here you can see the swivel lever poking out below where the bolster part of the seat is.
15582

With the bolster section down, you can hardly see the swivel lever, but it's easy to reach when seated.
15583

jmvotto
07-28-2012, 09:06 PM
Anyone look at this and just replace the whole sliding mechanism as well.

http://www.iboats.com/Garelick-Low-Profile-Seat-Slide-And-Locking-Swivel/dm/cart_id.812299146--session_id.211000145--view_id.237951

ian ashton
07-29-2012, 08:43 AM
I looked at that (or similar) at West Marine. I didn't like the lever locations, so I stuck with the same.

kaneboats
08-31-2012, 11:51 PM
Allright, got 'er done. Thanks so much to everybody who contributed to this thread. I am very happy with the result right now. We'll see on the water tomorrow!

wolfeman131
08-31-2012, 11:52 PM
Well, I don't see any pics so at least clue us in on how many beers it took.

kaneboats
08-31-2012, 11:58 PM
It took two maybe three tall Miller Lite can/bottles. My pics show exactly what the first pics in this thread show except for more blood. I'll post up a pic from tomorrow with me chilling on the water listening to my Exile tunes in my new lounge.

jmvotto
09-01-2012, 08:08 AM
Yep, need some chillin pics. You use the locking swivel with metal bearings?

kaneboats
09-02-2012, 02:26 PM
Nope and glad I didn't. I was constantly swiveling around. I like it free to move around and wifey didn't complain.

E4NASH
09-11-2012, 01:45 PM
Thinking of tackling this again. So what is the recommended swivel to get and where can I get it? I know now to avoid the one with the plastic inside. I can get the metal from a site someone listed above www.metalsupermarkets.com.

kaneboats
09-11-2012, 02:59 PM
I just grabbed the 9.99 walmart one. But I did see a nice looking all stainless one at West Marine.

It looked kinda like this one:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=427853&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50821&subdeptNum=50835&classNum=50836#.UE-Jz1H5tcI

The swivel eze one is the one I got at Wallys- same price as here:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=19036&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50821&subdeptNum=50822&classNum=50825#.UE-J_VH5tcI

Looks like they have the 12 way locking one on clearance for $20.

jmvotto
09-11-2012, 02:59 PM
Thinking of tackling this again. So what is the recommended swivel to get and where can I get it? I know now to avoid the one with the plastic inside. I can get the metal from a site someone listed above www.metalsupermarkets.com (http://www.metalsupermarkets.com).

i called overtons and they have the swivel with the metal bearings.

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Wise-Boat-Seat-Flat-Swivel&i=75631&str=swivel&merchID=4005

E4NASH
02-21-2013, 03:32 PM
What thickness is the 1 inch angle bar? I am doing the same thing and my supplier offers 1/8" and 1/4" thickness in the 1 inch bar. I am doing 9x13 1/4" plate. They do also have .375 inch thick plate as well. Maybe I should go with the thicker on the plate?

tcallis
02-21-2013, 05:54 PM
moombahighrider,

Looks great! Which locking swivel did you use?

moombahighrider
02-24-2013, 11:42 AM
moombahighrider,

Looks great! Which locking swivel did you use?

It was something very similar to this one. I can't tell if this one has metal bearings or the poly insert, but mine had the poly insert and that is the one negative to my version. Definitely go metal bearings if you can....

http://m.overtons.com/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5vdmVydG9ucy5jb20vbW9kcGVybC9wcm9kdW N0L2RldGFpbHMuY2dpP3BkZXNjPUxvY2tpbmctU3dpdmVsJmk9 MzcxMzQmYUlEPTYwMUM3RSZtZXJjaElEPTQwMDY%3D

E4NASH
02-24-2013, 02:25 PM
I got mine at bass pro....metal bearings.


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