Mojo Surf Ballast Setup

[wolfeman131]

As mentioned in many posts this year, our family REALLY enjoyed surfing behind our 2012 Mojo this season! With help from Moombadaze and Spencer from Wakemakers and stealing ideas from lasvboombox, by the end of the season we got the ballast system figured out. I believe that this setup will work for the 2013 Mojo as well as the 2013 LSV.

My objectives for the system were as follows:



1) Provide a "better than good" regular surf wave.

2) Entirely hidden.

3) No additional pumps, drilling into the hull, etc.

4) Controlled from the driver's seat.

5) Reasonable fill time.



Using a tsunami pump & throwing bags around the boat for the first half of the season, we found the best wave was achieved by weighting the boat as follows:



1) 1,100 lb sac full in port locker

2) 370 lb "tube" sac full under port seats

3) 1,100 lb sac about 40% full in starboard locker

4) 450 lb stock, center hard tank full

5) 650 lb bow sac full



Yep, that's just over 3,000 lbs of ballast. The 345hp Indmar surf motor has no problem getting the Mojo up on plane.

Here is an overview of the system I set up. The blue are fill lines, and the red are vent lines.

The port (or left "L") pump fills/empties the port 1,100 and 370 tube sac. The fill line is simply "T'd" and the line for the 370 runs under the 1,100. The 370 is vented back into the top port on the 1,100 and the 1,100 is vented thru a check valve out the side of the boat. If I do not want to use the 370, I filled a connection with epoxy and can easily cap the fill ine off.

The starboard (or right "R") pump fills/empties the starboard 1,100 sac. No mods done to the factory fill and simply added a check vavle to the vent line.

The center ("C") pump fills/empties the center hard tank and the IBS. At the point the factory tank vent lines runs out from under the floor in the bow storage, I installed the Bosworth directional Y valve. If I choose not to run the IBS, I can vent the center tank out the side. If I want to run the IBS, I rotate the valve and the center tank vents into the IBS. The IBS vent line is "Y'd" back into the factory vent line with a check valve installed.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/MojoBallast.jpg

[wolfeman131]

It starts here, the box o' goodies from Wakemakers

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-06-24_11-27-38_163_zps44506c2e.jpg

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-06-24_11-28-09_182_zpse35978d1.jpg

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-06-24_11-53-43_917_zps438f9d06.jpg

Bags laid out on the dock: left to right - 650 bow sac, 370 tube sac, 1,100 rear locker bag, 1,100 rear locker bag

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-35-49_617_zps32551a4c.jpg

[wolfeman131]

First install step was the port locker plumbing. After some experimentation of using the port pump for the 1,100 and the starboard pump for the 370 tube, I realized that the boat really needs some weight in the off side to get a great wave. I also realized that by designing the system where the center vent would fill the IBS, that my fill time was going to be dictated by that total 1,100 lbs so running the 1,100 locker bag and 370 tube together wasn't going to cost me too much additional time.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-30-29_532_zps9dd2c105.jpg

pic from inside port locker towards bow and fill line hooked up to 370 tube sac

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-33-21_380_zps18d79e81.jpg

1,100 in port locker full

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-16-04_174_zps5b3a6999.jpg

370 under port seats full

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-16-15_159_zpsb86e3819.jpg

[moombadaze]

whats with all the empty coolie cups.

[wolfeman131]

Plug I made by filling a fitting with epoxy.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-34-24_649_zps2deaca1c.jpg

Plug installed at the end of the 370 fill line. I thought this was a simple solution vs another valve. We keep it in the glovebox for when/if it's needed.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-34-02_346_zpsc8dbb771.jpg

Note the boo-boo on my thumb above! That was the result of NOT being patient and waiting for the hair dryer to heat up the tubing well and instead trying to push, twist and muscle crank it on. Take your time and let the tubing heat up, then have some towels or light gloves on to work the tubing over the fittings.

Starboard side was next and was easiest as all I did was install a check valve on the vent line.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-30-17_223_zpsf265b8df.jpg

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-15-56_223_zpse87864f2.jpg

[wolfeman131]

Finish it up with the IBS. I cut the factory center hard tank vent line just as it comes out of the floor in the starboard bow storage area. It's tight in there and the Mojo storage compartments are deep. So, another word of caution, have somebody around to pull you're fat arse outta there. I was on my back installing the check valve & vent line and popped right into that hole. I had to wiggle and squiggle to get turned back around to get out of there. You may also want to start with the bow so you're not too many beers into the job.

I pre-measured all my lines and installed the IBS fill and the vent lines to the valve before attaching the valve to the center vent line. From the left is the vent line if you're only using the center tank and no IBS, from the middle is the fill to the IBS and from the right is the incoming center tank vent/fill line.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-18-39_340_zps083682bf.jpg

everything hooked up.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-18-31_686_zps814aa997.jpg

The vent off the top of the IBS is tricky. Since the center hard tank vent is a 1 in line, you need to order a 1 inch Y connector (it's listed as 1 1/8 in on Wakemakers) and a 1 in check valve. I missed that it was 1 in the first time and ordered all 3/4 in parts. Sorry for the bad pic below, but you can see the larger check valve leading to the thru hull vent. That is the only connection I put a hose clamp on. I thought "just in case" it would be easier to get to remove that versus a crimped connection.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-19-40_591_zps322f06f5.jpg

pic of the IBS installed, but not filled. It had been filled as you can see from the missing cupholders. I ordered the bow cushion which means these are normally covered anyway, so no worries.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-18-02_865_zps29c0020c.jpg

[wolfeman131]

Finished, filled and leaning.

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-15-24_563_zps8e11f9e1.jpg

[jpetty3023]

time and money spent on his project sir


sent from my home phone

[E4NASH]

time and money spent on his project sir


sent from my home phone

Yeah, this is my plan this offseason too. I like your use of the Directional Y Valve vs. the Distribution manifold I was thinking about using...much cheaper and I can hide it in more places. I'm planning on running an IBS and 1100's in the rear. I already have the 370's under each side seat. Gonna need a new prop though for sure!!

[wolfeman131]

E - let me know when you plan to do this and I will bring the crimp tool home for you to use. I really like the factory look versus the hose clamps and you avoid the sharp edges.

[E4NASH]

Oh don't worry, you WILL be present at the time of installation!

I am thinking about adding an additional pump though for the IBS. Not sure yet...We'll discuss later and decide what way I should go. I have both regular and goofy riders on my boat so I have to fill both sides.

[wolfeman131]

I wouldn't bother with the additional pump. I was set to put one in, but that light bulb went off above my head about the timing. For you, you're going to fill at least an 1,110 (probably plus a 370) off of a single pump. So, that's you baseline, if you will. What do you gain by adding a 4th pump to fill a 650 IBS? Nothing, IMO, except complexity & cost.

If it were me, I'd run the port side off one pump (1,470 lbs), the starboard off another (1,470 lbs) and your IBS (650 lbs) and center (not sure what you have, but I know it's not 820 lbs which is the delta between 1,470 & 650) off the 3rd pump.

Does that make sense? You don't gain any time filling the IBS off a dedicated pump. Your center & IBS will be full while you're still sitting around waiting on the 1,100/370 combo for whatever side you want to surf.

Now, you can get all fancy and set up Y valves to run 2 pumps into a side or to run from one side back to the other - which might be cool for you, but in the end, Moombadaze gave me the best advice before we started my project:

KEEP IT SIMPLE.

[rca]

How well does the IBS drain in this setup? Looks like it might leave quite a bit of water in the port side of the bag the way you have it seutp.

[wolfeman131]

Nope, not a drop. With the check valve installed, it drains completely flat.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[parrothd]

How long does it take to fill the 1100 and the tube sac?

I have some darn goofy foot riders so I'm wondering how long it takes to switch.. :)

[lsvboombox]

I wouldn't bother with the additional pump. I was set to put one in, but that light bulb went off above my head about the timing. For you, you're going to fill at least an 1,110 (probably plus a 370) off of a single pump. So, that's you baseline, if you will. What do you gain by adding a 4th pump to fill a 650 IBS? Nothing, IMO, except complexity & cost.

If it were me, I'd run the post side off one pump (1,470 lbs), the starboard off another (1,470 lbs) and your IBS (650 lbs) and center (not sure what you have, but I know it's not 820 lbs which is the delta between 1,470 & 650) off the 3rd pump.

Does that make sense? You don't gain any time filling the IBS off a dedicated pump. Your center & IBS will be full while you're still sitting around waiting on the 1,100/370 combo for whatever side you want to surf.

Now, you can get all fancy and set up Y valves to run 2 pumps into a side or to run from one side back to the other - which might be cool for you, but in the end, Moombadaze gave me the best advice before we started my project:

KEEP IT SIMPLE.

This was my thinking as well. No need to run an extra reversible pump to service an ibs. Unless you are going to y valve it and let it share duties on another bag. I have three pumps and only surf regular so i put a y valave on the goofy pump and have 2 pumps filling the 1100 pounder. I also have a couple of other bags i use a over the side pump to fill.

[sandm]

if I was riding with several goofy and had to switch back and forth, I would install the transfer pump setup that wakemakers installed in ragboy's boat. you are now filling one side, draining one side and also transferring water from side to side. you can now also use that same setup to effectively double your drain times when done as you drain one, transfer to the other side and drain that side as well. I like wolfe's "keep it simple" mantra from daze, but this really makes sense and only adds a single pump, some fittings, no thru-hulls and a single switch to change directions.

I can't attest to it's speed, but have heard they are switching sides with 1100's in under 5 minutes.

glad we're all regular :)

[wolfeman131]

I think my timer for the 1,100/370 combo is set at 12 1/2 min, but I prefer to have the water spill out the vent to know the bags are full vs the gauge on the dash. You can hear the difference in the pumps and/or air bubbles hitting the hull to know when to shut them off.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[wolfeman131]

I have heard the X-link from wakemakers cuts the time in half to switch. But, it still takes the same time to fill the first time. At $290, you need to really value that 5 min. I'd rather spend that cash on beer and use that 5 min to enjoy a cold one.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[parrothd]

I have heard the X-link from wakemakers cuts the time in half to switch. But, it still takes the same time to fill the first time. At $290, you need to really value that 5 min. I'd rather spend that cash on beer and use that 5 min to enjoy a cold one.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

We do this with the tsunami pumps and work well, could probably plumb/reuse my tsunami pumps when I install my new setup with reversible...

[sandm]

it shouldn't take more time the first time out as you are filling both left and right and transferring the water to whichever side you are starting on. that should be 2 pumps filling at the same time and one transferring to the side you surf on..

I don't disagree with you on the beer/time thing :) but if you are riding with a group of both regular and goofy, I would think that cash would be well spent being able to switch over quicker. heck, I bet you have 15x that cost in ballast and exile upgrades. now it's just 16x :p

[moombadaze]

boy do those crimp fittings make the system look so much nicer.

[jmvotto]

boy do those crimp fittings make the system look so much nicer.

pictures please.....

[wolfeman131]

You can see them in all my pics. The little silver bands around the black tubes.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[rca]

Are those Oetiker crimp rings? A little hard to discern from the pics.

[wolfeman131]

Ron,

You stumped me on that one. I ordered the rings and crimping tool from wakemakers.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[kaneboats]

Looks great and great writeup. Got me thinking about some things.

[bergermaister]

Very nice writeup and pics - very clean and of course love the blue bags in the blue boat. Wish I would have used those crimpers now too.




1,100 in port locker full

http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/wolfeman131/Mojo%20ballast/2012-09-09_14-16-04_174_zps5b3a6999.jpg


The space you have in there even with the 1100 full blows me away... When experimenting did you ever stack any more sacs in there to max it out and see what effect it had on the wave?

[lsvboombox]

Are those Oetiker crimp rings? A little hard to discern from the pics.

Yes thy are. Wakemakers sells them just as cheap as most others unless your buying a butt load

[wolfeman131]

The space you have in there even with the 1100 full blows me away... When experimenting did you ever stack any more sacs in there to max it out and see what effect it had on the wave?

There isn't a ton of room left on top to stack anything significant, IMO. I've thought about strapping one of the stock bags to the port seats or on top of the sun pad and the other under the bow cushion, but don't really like the thought of having to mess with the dang handheld tsunami.

[mnpracing]

Yes thy are. Wakemakers sells them just as cheap as most others unless your buying a butt load

I get them from Menards for $3.49 for 25 clamps

[bergermaister]

Oh I'm not a big fan of bags all over and using the handheld pump (if possible). Was more fantasizing of how big of a custom sac you could fit back there to max out space available and the size of wave.

Just curious if you had done any testing before the install.

[moombadaze]

I've thought about strapping one of the stock bags to the port seats or on top of the sun pad and the other under the bow cushion.

Next summer lets do it. Lets go big tho-xtra 1100 on sunpad, 650 top of seat and a 650 on the bow seats.

[wolfeman131]

Yep, did lots of testing and I only posted my FINAL install. I had a much different install originally with the port pump filling the 1,100 & 370, the center pump filling the center hard tank and the port pump filling the IBS. I didn't like the wave without any weight in the starboard side and seemed to get too much cavitation, so was throwing the tsunami over the side.

I also tried a setup with the port pump filling the 1,110 and the vent line off it spill into the 370 to fill it. This seemed to work fine for filling, but I couldn't get teh 370 to drain completely. That lead me to the current setup with the shortest, straightest run I could get from the pump to the 370. I haven't noticed any issues with having the fill hose for the 370 running under the 1,100.

I was going to put the directional Y in the locker or under the rear bench and run the IBS & starboard off the starboard pump, but the more I thought about it, the more I liked being in control from the driver's seat vs having to hop up and flip the valve(s).

In regards to a custom sac, Spencer and I went thru it and just weren't sure we could get much more weight back in there to justify the cost. I did buy a brick sac and am going to look at tying that into the port side leg of the IBS and have the brick located behind the observer's seat. I've also considered adding lead, but just not sure I want to put extra strain on the lift and I have no interest in loading/unloading lead all the time.

[bergermaister]

Roger that. I like what you've done. I'd want to see the end result before committing to the cost of custom sacs.

I have zero storage room left when filled so am always interested in alternatives. Not even sure where to get lead around here, but don't have to worry about a sitting on a lift either.


After the other review and all your updates the Mojo is definitely starting to grow on me more and more. I need to get out in one!

[moombadaze]

. I need to get out in one!

bring your checkbook and just stop off at the dealer on your way home from your ride and pick your colors.

2 things kept me from getting one. Garage door hight for storage, and our local lake, its just small and shallow. the Mojo is just 2 big for both, heck the LSV is pushing it.

[kaneboats]

Looks like I'm going to an 8 ft garage door next week. Hmmm.

[jpetty3023]

@kane, closing on a new house?

@wolfey, I've often thought about lead for up front, opinions one way or other? I also like Berg have no lift concerns, I trailer to my storage unit



sent from my home phone

[wolfeman131]

well, my thought on lead is that it's either in, or it's out. I'm not going to hassle with moving it in and out based on what we're wanting to do. So, why haul around a couple hundred extra pounds and burn more gas when you don't need the weight?

[bergermaister]

True - I kind of convince myself it would be like having a few extra people along for the day. I'd just leave it in the boat all day. Maybe move it from all on one side to spread evenly under the rear bags when we're done?

[jmvotto]

Drew,

Great write up. The mojo locker in the rear is huge, my1100 pops my locker on the xlv.

What's the directional valve for, wouldnt you have the ibs and the center locker full at the same time?

[wolfeman131]

What's the directional valve for, wouldn't you have the ibs and the center locker full at the same time?

I was thinking maybe not for the kids when wakeboarding.

That's IF they ever try wakeboarding again. :)

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[jpetty3023]

I was thinking maybe not for the kids when wakeboarding.

That's IF they ever try wakeboarding again. :)

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Right!! My kids the same way here lately. Had a two hour window the other day. To easy to put boat in and lace up but no, had to spend half our allotted time getting boat surf/trailer ready. Weirdos🏄


sent from my ipad2 via a wireless network which usually sucks

[jmvotto]

funny my kids really are into boarding and with the xlv , no additional weight needed at this time, wake plenty big...

I wish they wanted to surf more so, the DD could get some time in.

[tnbrooks01]

The vent off the top of the IBS is tricky. Since the center hard tank vent is a 1 in line, you need to order a 1 inch Y connector (it's listed as 1 1/8 in on Wakemakers) and a 1 in check valve. I missed that it was 1 in the first time and ordered all 3/4 in parts. Sorry for the bad pic below, but you can see the larger check valve leading to the thru hull vent. That is the only connection I put a hose clamp on. I thought "just in case" it would be easier to get to remove that versus a crimped connection.

Going to order some check valves today. My boat is not here at the house to measure, so does the 2013 have 1" hose or 3/4? or is the 1" only on the center tank?

Thanks

[moombadaze]

Going to order some check valves today. My boat is not here at the house to measure, so does the 2013 have 1" hose or 3/4? or is the 1" only on the center tank?

Thanks

its all 1" hose, no 3/4 stuff anywhere on the ballast

[tnbrooks01]

its all 1" hose, no 3/4 stuff anywhere on the ballast

Great thanks! I thought it was bigger hose than in my 2010 but wanted to make sure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mojodog]

thanks for being so detailed and all the great pics...got our new mojo late last season and so far only boarding. Definitely plan to get into surfing this yr and looking at ballast upgrades now. My son works at a shop that can only get straightline and I have spent a good bit of time reading about the fly high bags and that seems like the way to go...did you also consider the L shaped bag to sit on the rear seats? Also, Mike at barefoot int. said that rather than the one bag system in the bow use 2 separate under each seat so you can just weight the side you are surfing on...

[mmandley]

thanks for being so detailed and all the great pics...got our new mojo late last season and so far only boarding. Definitely plan to get into surfing this yr and looking at ballast upgrades now. My son works at a shop that can only get straightline and I have spent a good bit of time reading about the fly high bags and that seems like the way to go...did you also consider the L shaped bag to sit on the rear seats? Also, Mike at barefoot int. said that rather than the one bag system in the bow use 2 separate under each seat so you can just weight the side you are surfing on...

First Welcome, great to hear you have a Mojo.

I have been doing some testing on mine, and i dont want to share it in this thread due to not wanting to mess up Drews thread.

I personally have found some different set ups im messing with. I took some video yesterday and will have to get it uploaded.

Also as fore the Straightline bags, there is no problem using them. I used them in my LSV and i actually have the 900s in the rear of my Mojo right now, while i am waiting on the 1100 to arrive.

I will share, in my Mojo it wants a TON litterally of nose weight. I was getting a much nicer, cleaner, wave with 1500+lbs in my bow then just the 500 center and 650 IBS.

As for dividing up the weight in the bow, i have been thinking of running the 2 450 bags in my bow to weight the nose more but i personally dont want to weight only 1 side of the nose.

Look for a thread on my Mojo surfing experiences comming soon.

[wolfeman131]

I had 3 objectives: good/great wave, no drilling holes in the boat & all hidden. So, I didn't consider the L shaped bag and I didn't/wouldn't consider splitting the front into a 2 bag system. I do wish the IBS was larger.

[mmandley]

. I do wish the IBS was larger.

This is why im thinking of running my 2 450s in the nose, just daisey them together so they run off the single pump and drain still. Not sure if it will work but worth a try. I have no desire to only run 1 eighter.

With the IBS full i still have so much extra room in the bow LOL.

My goal is the same as yours Drew, i dont want a bag in my walkway, or a bag i have to manually fill eighter.

[wolfeman131]

This is why im thinking of running my 2 450s in the nose, just daisey them together so they run off the single pump and drain still. Not sure if it will work but worth a try.

Maybe I'll give that a shot this weekend. I'm sure it will fill fine, but not sure about draining. I did get one of the cube bags with the handles on it to throw around and it helped but I hated throwing the pump over the side & having the kids bang it on the side pulling it in. If chaining them together works, I may do that to this cube and hide it in the space behind the observers seat.

[TeamLockhart]

What prop are you running?....thanks

[wolfeman131]

Cant remember. Whatever the upgraded one is from the factory.

[mcdye]

The recommended upgrade is the Acme 1235.

[slingo]

I sent a long note yesterday with questions and info, but it still hasn't posted, will retype here and if it pops up later, you'll know what happened... :-)

Picked up new Mojo two weekends ago. LOVE IT, but so far unable to get any sort of a 'surfable' wake using the factory ballast and wakeplate, no matter how we've configured it. So looking for suggestions. REALLY appreciate all the info posted here!! That said, I'm sort of miffed that a "surf boat" isn't surfable somewhat right out of the box...even just a recreational wave. I surfed last summer behind a stock MB B52 v23 last year (2,300lbs ridged self-filling ballast) and it had a pretty good wave with no aftermarket ballast and only 4 medium-sized people in the boat.

We have the 345 surf engine with the upgraded Acme prop option and so far I've learned the Mojo does like a lot of nose weight, but the stock 500 tank doesn't appear to be enough. We seem to get close to a surfable wake at 10.7mph with the front tank full, and back port bag (650lbs) full, and a couple of bodies on the port side. But can't create a wave that we can can actually surf. We are currently using a 2011 Hyperlite Broadcast board, which came highly recommended, so that shouldn't be a big problem. Thoughts? Would really appreciate any ideas.

I would HOPE I don't have to buy another $1500 in bags and manual pumps to get a surfable wave.

p.s. The Footers Edge dot com has really good info about configuring ballast. See their Ballast guide PDF.

Thanks!
Steve

[mmandley]

I sent a long note yesterday with questions and info, but it still hasn't posted, will retype here and if it pops up later, you'll know what happened... :-)

Picked up new Mojo two weekends ago. LOVE IT, but so far unable to get any sort of a 'surfable' wake using the factory ballast and wakeplate, no matter how we've configured it. So looking for suggestions. REALLY appreciate all the info posted here!! That said, I'm sort of miffed that a "surf boat" isn't surfable somewhat right out of the box...even just a recreational wave. I surfed last summer behind a stock MB B52 v23 last year (2,300lbs ridged self-filling ballast) and it had a pretty good wave with no aftermarket ballast and only 4 medium-sized people in the boat.

We have the 345 surf engine with the upgraded Acme prop option and so far I've learned the Mojo does like a lot of nose weight, but the stock 500 tank doesn't appear to be enough. We seem to get close to a surfable wake at 10.7mph with the front tank full, and back port bag (650lbs) full, and a couple of bodies on the port side. But can't create a wave that we can can actually surf. We are currently using a 2011 Hyperlite Broadcast board, which came highly recommended, so that shouldn't be a big problem. Thoughts? Would really appreciate any ideas.

I would HOPE I don't have to buy another $1500 in bags and manual pumps to get a surfable wave.

p.s. The Footers Edge dot com has really good info about configuring ballast. See their Ballast guide PDF.

Thanks!
Steve

Steve Congratz on the new Mojo, looking sharp man.

I am going to assume you have the 650 in the rear of the boat yes?

Out of the Box the Mojo will surf but you have to remember that out of the box this boat has to deal with a Factory Load rating, and this takes into account the ballast and PEOPLE so the Factory wont put a slamming 2500LBS system in this boat.

Although through my dealer i got to upgrade the rears to 1100 and add an IBS.

First lets start with whats your surfers weight?
Pic of the wave would be awesome to see if its dialed in correctly.

As for factory setup, to maximize what you have you will need to fill hard tank, fill port side rear, and prolly 30% on Starboard rear. This will add more weight in the back of the boar to make the wave pop up and push a little better.

Also tell me what you feel when you surf?

Does it feel like your constantly on the front of your board trying to speed up?
If so try more wake plate on the boat
Try moving your back foot slightly forward
Move your front foot near the front 8inches of the board
Slow the boat down by .2mph in increments

10.7 is pretty fast for a stock wave, the problem with a stock wave it will be shorter, and the pocket will be small and tight but its there.

Want to experiment before you invest in bags, take your starboard bag, fill it and toss it in the nose and watch how the wave changes, or you can also tell people to sit up there momentary.

[slingo]

MM, thanks for the super fast reply! Yes, we have the standard 650lb backs in each of the back lockers. We've played with varied fill amounts in the other bag (yes, it does help to have ~30-50% in the starboard bag), varied speeds from 9 up to 12, varied plate positions and can't seem to produce a wave that anyone can stay on...including experienced surfers (not world class boat surfers...just guys who have surfed other boats and beaches and have some knowledge).

If I replace the rear 650 bags with 1100 bags, will that get me something?

(btw, what is "IBS"?)

Thanks!
Steve

[mmandley]

MM, thanks for the super fast reply! Yes, we have the standard 650lb backs in each of the back lockers. We've played with varied fill amounts in the other bag (yes, it does help to have ~30-50% in the starboard bag), varied speeds from 9 up to 12, varied plate positions and can't seem to produce a wave that anyone can stay on...including experienced surfers (not world class boat surfers...just guys who have surfed other boats and beaches and have some knowledge).

If I replace the rear 650 bags with 1100 bags, will that get me something?

(btw, what is "IBS"?)

Thanks!
Steve

Also to note the Broadcast is a Slower heavier board, this is why its such a great beginner board. I personally havnt rode it but i have the Ride Board in my quiver and i cant surf it unless i remove the rear center fin to speed the board up.

Yes 1100 in the rear will help tremendously if your not running a lot of nose weight. It will make the wave steeper giving it more push or power but it wont help the pocket length.

IBS integrated bow sack for under your bow seats.

Personally i cant say for sure, as i haven't surfed my idea in my theory yet. Next time we go out <hopefully> this next week we are going to take the 1100 out of the rear and add the 650 back and weight the nose to 1500 and see how it surfs. With my visual testing the wave is much nicer with only a 650 in the rear and a heavy nose but like i said i haven't surfed it yet. If its a stellar set up ill be posting TONS of pics and video to prove this point, but as of right now i cant say its better at all.

[slingo]

Wow, 1500lbs in the nose...watch out for rollers coming at you when you're slowing down! :-)

What's the 411 on pumps? The stock ones seem to take quite a while to fill. If I change out the stern 650s for 1100s, It'll take a VERY long time to fill them. Is it advisable to put in a higher volume pump? Additional pumps?

I'll try taking off the middle fin on my Hyperlite Broadcast and see how that works. IS there a better "intermediate" board I should look at? And what size? I'm 6'5" 200lbs, and my wife is 5'5" 135lbs.

[mmandley]

Wow, 1500lbs in the nose...watch out for rollers coming at you when you're slowing down! :-)

What's the 411 on pumps? The stock ones seem to take quite a while to fill. If I change out the stern 650s for 1100s, It'll take a VERY long time to fill them. Is it advisable to put in a higher volume pump? Additional pumps?

I'll try taking off the middle fin on my Hyperlite Broadcast and see how that works. IS there a better "intermediate" board I should look at? And what size? I'm 6'5" 200lbs, and my wife is 5'5" 135lbs.

Surprising with 1500 up front i still have a good 2-3 feet of nose out of the water when she is approaching you at idle

Pumps will be fine

Fill time should be apx 1 minute per 100 lbs of ballast. 6-7minutes for the 650s and 10-12 minutes for the 1100s

That board is fine for what your doing, as in learning, there is another thread talking about boards to try out.

General rule of thumb, the lighter a board is the faster it is in the water, and the more expensive a board is the lighter and faster it is in the water.

http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/showthread.php?21885-Looking-at-new-wake-surf-boards-Which-one

[slingo]

Good link. Thanks!

[TeamLockhart]

Ok aftercmuch research order my IBS 650 will be in next week so we can work our surf wave......also have upgraded the rears to 1100 and just got another Acme 1235 to replace the one on the boat to send out and have a spare....will keep everyone updated on install and results......great page guys!

[pkh]

Hi guys - I am helping my bud get his new Mojo dialed and want to find out where is a good starting point. He wants a good wave but probably won't run as many bags as OP.

It sounds like 1100's in the rears and a bow sac might be a good start? Does the Mojo care if the weight is centered in the bow vs. all on one side?

Thanks!

[wolfeman131]

1). Post pics
2). Order 1,100's from wakemakers. They are plug & play
3). Order IBS, bosworth Y,1" fixed Y and a some hose & clamps from wakemakers.
4). Install #2
5). Enjoy a few cold ones
6). Install #3
7). Enjoy a few cold ones
8). Go surf
9). Enjoy a few cold ones
10). Post pics of you all surfing and enjoying a few cold ones

[wolfeman131]

[QUOTE=mmandley;212762]

General rule of thumb, the lighter a board is the faster it is in the water, and the more expensive a board is the lighter and faster it is in the water.
[QUOTE]

you need to ride more boards . . . . .

The shape and buoyancy are what make a board go faster. Fins also make a difference and quad fin or twin fin set up will offer more speed on a surf style board because there is no fin down the middle like a thruster that holds it back a little.

Flyboy (Jeff & James Walker) do a ton of prototyping of boards. Sometimes technical, but always entertaining read:

http://flyboywakesurf.com/

While these were written specific to traditional surfboards, the terminology is basically the same for wakesurfers:

http://www.islesurfboards.com/surfboard-shaping-fundamentals.aspx
http://allaboutsurfboards.com/surfboard-bottom/

[mmandley]

[QUOTE=mmandley;212762]

General rule of thumb, the lighter a board is the faster it is in the water, and the more expensive a board is the lighter and faster it is in the water.
[QUOTE]

you need to ride more boards . . . . .

The shape and buoyancy are what make a board go faster. Fins also make a difference and quad fin or twin fin set up will offer more speed on a surf style board because there is no fin down the middle like a thruster that holds it back a little.

Flyboy (Jeff & James Walker) do a ton of prototyping of boards. Sometimes technical, but always entertaining read:

http://flyboywakesurf.com/

While these were written specific to traditional surfboards, the terminology is basically the same for wakesurfers:

http://www.islesurfboards.com/surfboard-shaping-fundamentals.aspx
http://allaboutsurfboards.com/surfboard-bottom/

I will check that out but i have ridden more then a dozen different boards and almost all of them have been different styles of surf and my general finding is exactly how i put it. Some boards are heavy such as a couple IS board and they are fast but nothing is as fast as the Soul Craft i have and like i said a lighter board will be faster in the water because it too has less drag.

Also some, but not all boards that have 3 fins will be faster by removing the center fin.
On my Soul Craft its faster by removing the 2 smaller fins and also replacing the rear fins with slightly smaller ones makes it more maneuverable.

Also another consideration is Rider Weight, if your light or well under the boards maximum weight limit the board will of course be much faster then if your heavier and closer to the boards weight limit.

[kaneboats]

Fins make a big difference if the rider is heavier and sinking the board deeper in the water. In other words, different sized riders may feel different things from the same fin setups.

[wolfeman131]

fins 101:

http://www.surfing-gear.net/surfboard-fins.html

A number of pros are now running up to 6 fins on surf style boards. The number of fins shouldn't impact the speed of the board, it's the size of the fins, specifically the base.

[wolfeman131]

Also another consideration is Rider Weight, if your light or well under the boards maximum weight limit the board will of course be much faster then if your heavier and closer to the boards weight limit.

This impacts the board's buoyancy. If you're too heavy for a board, you are impacting the bouyancy (i.e. sinking it) and therefore not gaining the full potential of the design. Ultimately, this is why there isn't a "one size fits all" surfboard.

[pkh]

1). Post pics
2). Order 1,100's from wakemakers. They are plug & play
3). Order IBS, bosworth Y,1" fixed Y and a some hose & clamps from wakemakers.
4). Install #2
5). Enjoy a few cold ones
6). Install #3
7). Enjoy a few cold ones
8). Go surf
9). Enjoy a few cold ones
10). Post pics of you all surfing and enjoying a few cold ones

That sounds like good advice! Thanks!