View Full Version : winterizing
11-07-2005, 05:29 PM
Winterized the LSV over the weekend, those above the frost line know what I mean.
I found the 2004 LSV a lot more work to winterize than the 2001 LS.
Here are a few things I found and I thought people might want to check.
The LSV has two water strainers, one for the ballast and one before the v-drive housing. Both are about the size and shape of an oil filter, clear plastic and they are located by the v-drive housing under the rear seat.
If you have a heater donít forget to blow out the lines and heater core.
I have two questions
1. I removed the ďwater drainĒ plugs from the v-drive housing; I didnít get much water out. I found it odd that both plugs are on the top of the housing. How is H2O supposed to drain out?
2. Removing the impeller
Do you remove the complete impeller housing to get the impeller out?
If not how do you get the impeller out.
P.S. donít forget to change oil, fuel filter, and drain each side of the block along with the exhaust manifolds!
"Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well
preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out,
shouting"...holy shit...what a ride!"
11-09-2005, 01:51 PM
1. Thought the same thing.
2. I took the back plate off the impeller housing. I little water in there. I was not able to easily get the impeller out given its location. I gave up pretty easy as I didn't want to damage it. I'm sure the right tool would allow you to pull it out, but from a winterizing perspective I was confident there wasn't any water it there.
11-09-2005, 02:08 PM
I also noticed it looks difficult to get to the impeller. Just something to note. The 2005 Mobius LSV also has a quick connect that looks like a water hose connection in front of the engine, hanging way down low to drain the intake manifold. I am also going to fog the engine. I just can't justify $250 to let the dealer do it. Plus, I live 75 miles from the dealership. Also make sure to put Stabil in the fuel and let it run a while.
Any helpful hints from anyone would be appreciated.
Bruce, I have read on a few other websites that that easiest way to get the impeller out is to go to your hardware store and buy two paint can openers and use one one each side to slide it out.
I have read it works on both DD and Vdrives.
11-09-2005, 02:35 PM
So the question remains.
How do you get the impeller out to inspect as the manual suggests?
Heck, how do get the impeller out if you were going to replace it?
Bruce, did you read my post i just put up there.
11-09-2005, 03:01 PM
Also have an '05 LSV and did my winterize last weekend. I remove the complete impellor housing by removing the three allen lugs that attach it to the engine and the allen lug that attaches to a support bracket on port side. Removed the complete assembly and then pulled the cover plate and removed the impellor with a couple of vise grips that I jiggled back and forth until the impellor is pulled out of the housing. I will reinstall the housing and impellor in March. Store the rubber impellor in a plastic bag and cover it with vaseline as noted in the manual.
Curious regarding your experience in replacing engine oil. I ran my engine for close to 45 minutes to get the oil up to temperature, however, could not get a good flow out of the hose that can be put through the hull plug. To get a good flow going, I finally used pressurized air down the dipstick to get the oil flow going. Anyone else have this problem?? I ran the engine using fake a lake and let it idle at about 180 degrees for close to 45 minutes.
11-09-2005, 03:44 PM
qb12 your post wasn't there when I posted. Thanks for the info I will try that before I remove the impeller housing.
As fas as the oil change. I just let the oil take it time. I do loosen the oil cap which helps the oil flow. It by no means does it flow fast.
I am able to keep my boat in a garage so I let the oil drain over night.
No one has mentioned the water drain plugs on the v-drive housing.
I am going to try using my shop vac and see if I get any water out that way. If not I will try the air compressor and blow the water out. There can't be much H2O in ther.
11-09-2005, 07:16 PM
Will,I would be very carefull with "compressed air". A-lot of oil seals might not like that!I just put the hose in a drain pan and wait a few hours.
11-10-2005, 08:53 AM
I'm curious if there's much difference in between the v drives and d drives when it comes to changing oil. Everyone here with a v drive seems to have a problem with the oil draining very slowly even after being warmed up. With my d drive I run the fake a lake and warm it up to operating temp and let it run for about 10 more minutes. After I screw the plug off of the drain hose it takes about 5 minutes or so for the cold oil in the drain tube to run out. After that, the hot oil from the motor runs out like it's water.
The other thing I always do is adjust the angle that the boat sits. I can't remember off the top of my head if the drain hose is at the front or rear of the oil pan, but I raise or lower the tongue of the trailer to make sure all the oil runs to that point.
11-10-2005, 09:08 AM
What weight oil are you using?
15/40 Rotella. Only kind I can find in that weight and Indmar say it's fine and it's avail at Warmart.
Question to all, Are you running Antifreeze in your boat when you winterize. The reason I ask is Indmar say yes on closed cooling systems and they say to just drain the block and transmission on raw water cooling systems.
11-10-2005, 11:40 AM
I don't in the block. I leave hoses and plugs out as the manual suggests.
I have not decided on the v-drive housing. As I have said I am going to try to suck the water out with a shop vac. I might drop some anti-freeze in the v-drive water jacket.
11-10-2005, 03:05 PM
Was is difficult to remove the housing. By just looking at where the housing is located, it looks like it would be easier to remove it instead of just the impellor. My boat is also a 2005 Mobius LSV and I am considering not doing anything with it this winter at all and do it next year. Has anyone done that. I am wondering if the instructions for winterizing is used as a best scenario and if each and every item needs to be done. This is the only one I am thinkig about omitting. I agree that removing all water is vital to prevent freezing.
On the oil change. Consider buying a oil changing pump. I bought one last year at West Marine for around $25 and I just leave the hose where it is. Mine is hooked to the top of the engine. I just run the engine to get to operating temp, then hook the pump hose to the hose on the engine and pump it out. It is very easy. One trick,,,, take the end off of an old or new spark plug wire (the end that would hook to the spark plug) and attach it to the end of the pump hose. It will slide right over the brass fitting on the hose from the engine. Perfect fit. The service mgr at my dealership told me about it.
11-11-2005, 08:13 AM
I did the impeller thing this morning. I found Will's suggestion worked best.
I also removed the impeller housing, once that is off you can get the impeler out fairly easy. At least you can get to the impeller!
11-25-2005, 02:23 PM
After talking to a local boat mechanic he told me to pour some straight anti-freeze in the v-drive water jacket just to be sure. I thought it was a good idea.
12-03-2005, 02:22 AM
I spoke with the service mgr at my dealership and he suggested putting RV Antifreeze in the motor. I just disconnected the large hose just below the thermostat housing and poured 2 gallons in there. That is what he recommended. An added benefit is the RV Antifreeze is totally safe. When you start it up and it comes out of the exhaust, it will not harm anything like automotive antifreeze. If the dealer says it, I will give it a try.
12-04-2005, 11:22 PM
I put two freeze plug's in a friends boat this summer.He used RV antifreeze.That stuff does freeze.Put a gallon in your freezer and check it in a couple day's.;)
12-06-2005, 04:14 PM
That is not good.
12-06-2005, 07:30 PM
Well there is definitely some kind of env. safe antifreeze, cause my mechanic is using it and if it is going to freeze anywhere, it'll freeze in Minnesota. We are at a balmy 8F right now. We have been using antifreeze in the engien every year for the last 5 winters with good luck.
But I can not tell you what it is. I just hope it is not automotive...
12-06-2005, 08:12 PM
Getting the Allen wrench on the screws was a real pain. The screws are fine thread and I have some concern with getting them back on next spring without cross threading them. One was a real bugger getting off and will see what it takes next spring and how many busted knuckles I get. I really don't know how someone could get in that area to remove the impeller without taking the complete housing off first.
About your comment of not doing anything, I would have some concern that the impeller may fuse to the housing and get damaged when the engine is run in spring. Also, I suspect the rubber deteriorates over time which is why they have you coat the thing with Vaseline once it is removed.
All I did with the V-drive was to remove the plugs and I let gravity do the rest. Did not try sucking out the water or adding antifreeze. It does get below freezing here for short durations, I leave in Seattle area close to a large body of water (Puget Sound) and we rarely have long duration freezing periods. If we do get several below freezing days (doubtful) I may put a safe trouble light in the engine hold for an hour or two each day.
12-07-2005, 12:13 PM
Thanks for the info. I live in the Atlanta Georgia area. It has hit freezing temps each night this week, but also only have short freeze conditions. I have also thought about putting a light in there. I have done that in the past, usually at night. I am with you about trying to get to the impeller housing. There is not much room back there to do anything, especially getting both arms back there to get to that housing. Dealerships must use very small mechanics.
12-08-2005, 12:34 AM
I use "sierra" anti-freeze.It is an automotive anti-freeze but it is enviromently safe.After I drain everything I suck it in through the water pump full strength.I figure if there is any water left in the motor it won't get too far diluted.I believe it also keep's my impellers soft and pliable. I've been doing this for 15 years with no problems.
12-08-2005, 10:47 AM
Filling the engine/manifolds/trans/v-drive with some sort of antifreeze (I've always used the RV but it also never gets below 10 in Kentucky) also helps prevent the water jackets from corroding over the winter.
An easy way to fill the engine with antifreeze is to rig up a 5 gallon bucket with a hose spigot and attach a short hose from the bucket to the fake-a-lake. Before running off the antifreeze, run the engine on water until it is up to temperature to open the thermostat. If your from the frozen tundra and donít like the idea of having any water in the engine I suppose you could drain the engine and just remove the thermostat before doing the next step. Fill the bucket with the 4 gallons of antifreeze and run the engine off the antifreeze while fogging. When the antifreeze is gone kill the engine.
12-08-2005, 11:29 AM
With this many ideas for winterizing, I'll stick with the dealer cus it does get cold in Ohio.
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