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View Full Version : tsunami power and grnd distro block with meter



jmvotto
01-14-2013, 03:01 PM
Anyone have a pro or con with this block to feed three amps.


http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_28008_Tsunami-TPFDB-4PG.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=productads&gclid=CNus4c_Q6LQCFQWe4Aod00kAww

bergermaister
01-14-2013, 04:14 PM
Built in digital voltmeter is nice, but personally my distros are hidden. Don't really need/want to see a big gaggle of wires coming or going unless I'm tearing something apart.

sandm
01-14-2013, 05:13 PM
used that same one. you need access to is as it has the fuses for the amps on it. it's a solid unit that installed very easy. just don't forget to buy the required fuses ahead of time. I didn't realize that until I was ready to power up the stereo. local shop didn't have 125amp fuses so had to use something different just to get the system powered up. now I have to go buy more in the spring for the correct ratings. I thought it was nice to have power and ground in the same unit. mine has 2 1/0 gauge to it and 3ea 4gauge to the amps..
only con would be the cover. kind of hokey how it fits and I think if you remove/reinstall it several times, it's not going to stay on.

MLA
01-14-2013, 05:56 PM
Great for adding a little bling to an install, especially if the gauge is easily visible. Other wise, a simple fused/GND combo block will serve just fine. It may even possible to skip the redundant fuses and just use a pair of non-fused blocks for the B+ and GND. If you helm has an analog volt gauge, you can wire it to a SPDT toggle and use it to monitor the voltage level in both the house and cranking banks. or, install a simple digital volt gauge. They come in a few different colors and come in round or rectangle. Metra, Xscorpian and Scosche all offer them.

Brianinpdx
01-14-2013, 06:45 PM
JMV - thats a good block. It's the only block that I've seen that does the power and ground (o ga input to 4 (4)ga outputs), both within the same block. It comes in two versions. Stay away from V1 as they had a lot of LED screen failures. I met with Metra at the consumer electronics show last week and my product development friend over there confirmed that they have now discontinued V2. A pitty because it really does everything all in one block. For that matter all Tsunami products have been disco'd by Metra. If sonic has it. I'd jump on it. Metra has been BO'd for the last 60 days on it.


-Brian

mmandley
01-14-2013, 08:00 PM
Same exact one i used in Fierah. The display only powers up for a couple minutes when you first turn the system on. Then it will re display randomly every so often for a short amount of time.

I had no issues with mine

MLA
01-14-2013, 08:08 PM
JMV - thats a good block. It's the only block that I've seen that does the power and ground (o ga input to 4 (4)ga outputs), both within the same block. It comes in two versions. Stay away from V1 as they had a lot of LED screen failures. I met with Metra at the consumer electronics show last week and my product development friend over there confirmed that they have now discontinued V2. A pitty because it really does everything all in one block. For that matter all Tsunami products have been disco'd by Metra. If sonic has it. I'd jump on it. Metra has been BO'd for the last 60 days on it.


-Brian

I was there on Monday, sorry a missed you ;).

As Brian stated, the Tsunami name has been retired by Metra, but its being replaced with the T-Spec line up. All new look for their install accessories. Cabling and RCA's are being offered in a variety of performance levels, much like thy were under the Tsunami name.

jmvotto
01-15-2013, 08:28 AM
Thanks guys i picked one up with some 125amp anl led fuses hope to replace that bulky factory bus bar that was in stalled on the amp board..

moombadaze
01-15-2013, 08:30 AM
makes for a much cleaner wiring

rdlangston13
01-15-2013, 09:04 AM
Same block I have, no complaints!

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m523/rdlangston13/Stereo%20Upgrade/DSC01255.jpg

jmvotto
01-15-2013, 06:25 PM
Thanks David,

Was not sure how it looked wired up.

rdlangston13
01-16-2013, 12:02 AM
No problem


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jfox8807
01-17-2013, 04:39 AM
same block i use in my boat i like it works good the cover is a little kesie i guess. when i first skrewed it down i got it to tight and the cover wouldnt snap on loosend up the skrews up a bit and the cover snaped on and been good ever since the volt meter does go out un less u got the system jacked up loud and it causes ur voltage to jump around a bit.

i also noticed u said u got anl fuses. if u got regular anl fuses they want work u gotta make sure u got mini anl fuses hate for u to not be able to use ur new toy cause u and got 5 dollars worth of fuses

jmvotto
01-17-2013, 10:07 AM
Thanks, i did get the mini anl fuses, with blue led.

good feed back on the cover, i hope the volt meter works better than what you guys have reported, but no big deal if not,

muehlcj
01-17-2013, 05:09 PM
JM-Exactly what I used on my amp panel. Panel is in basement not on boat if you want I can remove and you can take a look in person.

jmvotto
01-21-2013, 08:05 AM
Two more questions?

since the boat is in winter lock down....

on the 2011,2012,2013 models have a 125 fuse or breaker running from the stereo battery to the bulky stereo bus bar configuartion or do i need to get one.

Two, will i need three batteries with three amps ( Exile, harpoon,800.4 and 1500.1) we dont spend all day party coving it, so stereo is usually running when the boat is.

MLA
01-21-2013, 08:51 AM
J,

In actuality, you only need a single cranking battery to run the boat and entire stereo. Now, how many house batteries will be needed to power the system with the engine off, will be determined by their estimated current draw at "Z" volume level x "Y" minutes you want to play the system with the engine off. This will give you an estimated battery Ah number. From there, you can figure out what group size and how many will be needed.

Im not sure I understand what you are asking in your first question. If there is an OEM installed B+ and GND BUSS Bar on the amp wall, they may be usable for your install as all 3 of those amp have internal fusing. But, you will need to supply those BUSS bars with proper gauge cable and circuit protection.

jmvotto
01-21-2013, 01:48 PM
J,

In actuality, you only need a single cranking battery to run the boat and entire stereo. Now, how many house batteries will be needed to power the system with the engine off, will be determined by their estimated current draw at "Z" volume level x "Y" minutes you want to play the system with the engine off. This will give you an estimated battery Ah number. From there, you can figure out what group size and how many will be needed.

Im not sure I understand what you are asking in your first question. If there is an OEM installed B+ and GND BUSS Bar on the amp wall, they may be usable for your install as all 3 of those amp have internal fusing. But, you will need to supply those BUSS bars with proper gauge cable and circuit protection.


GTK on the 3rd batttery,

on the stereo bus bar + and -. It takes up alot of real estate on my amp board and thus the combo distro block, wanted to know if they fused the power supply from the battery to the + side bus bar for the stereo.

I will try to post up a pic.

jmvotto
01-21-2013, 01:54 PM
upper left hand corner

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh254/jmvotto/moombabusboard_zps9c918d8e.jpg

MLA
01-21-2013, 02:53 PM
That is a rather large BUSS. I would hope it has some sort of circuit protection, but im not sure of that cabling would be sufficient to carry the possible load of those 3 amps combined. I have a feeling that you will need to upgrade the trunk like, regardless of swapping out that BUSS for a B+/- combo distribution block.

It also looks like that is 10ga running to that 700.5 amp. 4ga minimum, IMO. Not uncommon to see them bench test at over 900W rms.

jmvotto
01-23-2013, 09:56 PM
Got the block, why are there two power inputs? I'm confused

MLA
01-23-2013, 09:58 PM
Dont sweat it, they're BUSS'd. You only need a single B+ in to make all 4 fuse slots hot.

jmvotto
01-23-2013, 10:05 PM
Dont sweat it, they're BUSS'd. You only need a single B+ in to make all 4 fuse slots hot.


Thanks, I did notice that, but maybe it's a preference for top or bottom positioning. Not sure why you would use both B+ at the same time.

rdlangston13
01-23-2013, 10:32 PM
Quick question on the block. I'm running a exile harpoon, 800.4 and 600.1. What size fuse is needed for each amp in the block?


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MLA
01-23-2013, 10:49 PM
Quick question on the block. I'm running a exile harpoon, 800.4 and 600.1. What size fuse is needed for each amp in the block?


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The sum of the fuses on the ends of each amp are an indication of the approximate max current draw that the amp will ever pull. No need to ever exceed this with your fuse. Most amps will average between 50% and 75% of there max. Depending on the amp's efficiency and the load placed on each chnl, you could calculate a little closer. But, its still a estimate based on the type of music played and the volume level. I would shoot for 75% of the amp's max potential draw, but not exceeding the capacity of the cable between the block and amp.

The fuse for the trunk line feeding the block needs to be able to carry the load of all the amps, yet not exceed the capacity of the cable. We always want the fuse to be the week link.

rdlangston13
01-23-2013, 11:43 PM
Ok so what's the max for 4 gauge?


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jmvotto
01-24-2013, 05:37 AM
Ok so what's the max for 4 gauge?


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David, the exile site has the specs and recommended wire gauge and fuses.

I believe mine are 125 each at the block.

MLA
01-24-2013, 08:00 AM
Ok so what's the max for 4 gauge?


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The max current capacity for 4 ga would depend on the total length of the B+ and GND running to it. Another way to look at it. There is no advantage to having a fuse thats rated higher then the amp's max potential load (the sum of its internal fusing). So if your cable is of sufficient gauge to carry that amps potential load, then your fuse size should be within a safe range. The key is, if a short were to occur, we want the fuse or breaker to trip before the cable melts.

moombadaze
01-24-2013, 08:06 AM
no simple answer for David ?

I ordered the distribution block and wireing from Brian, he sent 5 fuses for it, 2 were larger, 3 were smaller (Think 125)
I've installed the smaller ones for all 3 amps

jmvotto
01-24-2013, 08:35 AM
no simple answer for David ?

I ordered the distribution block and wireing from Brian, he sent 5 fuses for it, 2 were larger, 3 were smaller (Think 125)
I've installed the smaller ones for all 3 amps

here it is the kit info
MAIN POWER & GROUND HOOKUP KIT INCLUDES:Ring Terminals 3 RED + 2 Black ZERO gauge
-6 ft 1/0 gauge power cable
-6 ft 1/0 gauge ground cable
PWR + GRND 4 Position Fused Distribution Block MiniANL with Digital Voltage Readout
(3) 150A Mini ANL fuses
(3) 100A Mini ANL fuses


This site has the better specs on the exile amps
http://www.exilecaraudio.com/

mmandley
01-24-2013, 08:39 AM
This site has the better specs on the exile amps
http://www.exilecaraudio.com/

I like that Video Spotlight right thar in de middle

MLA
01-24-2013, 08:49 AM
no simple answer for David ?



From Exile's website, I was able to gather his amp's total fusing.
800.1 = 60A (2 x 30) I would use a 50 or 60 amp
Harpoon = 80A (2 x 40) I would use a 80A
SM600.1 = 50A (2 x 25) I would use a 40 or 50 amp

For the main circuit protection, I would use a 120A or 150A breaker or fuse. As noted, the amp's estimated current draw will depend on some variable factors such as battery level, volume and music type, but it also depends on how many chnls are running at 4 ohm and how many or running at 2 ohm. The load on the chnl dictates the amps output, thus the current draw.

jmvotto
01-24-2013, 09:05 AM
From Exile's website, I was able to gather his amp's total fusing.
800.1 = 60A (2 x 30) I would use a 50 or 60 amp
Harpoon = 80A (2 x 40) I would use a 80A
SM600.1 = 50A (2 x 25) I would use a 40 or 50 amp

For the main circuit protection, I would use a 120A or 150A breaker or fuse. As noted, the amp's estimated current draw will depend on some variable factors such as battery level, volume and music type, but it also depends on how many chnls are running at 4 ohm and how many or running at 2 ohm. The load on the chnl dictates the amps output, thus the current draw.

MLA thanks for the input i was going to use 125 across the board

here are two more amps



Xi2500.1



Xi1500.1



into 1 ohm

2500W x 1


1500W x 1



Reccomended Fuse Size

200A


100A



Power / Ground Wire Size

1/0 Gauge


4 Gauge

jmvotto
01-24-2013, 09:06 AM
I like that Video Spotlight right thar in de middle

I thought that Rockstar looked familiar...

bzubke1
01-24-2013, 12:26 PM
Would a single 1/0 gauge input be enough for four 4 gauge outputs? Thinking about adding a fourth amp in the future.

MLA
01-24-2013, 12:59 PM
Would a single 1/0 gauge input be enough for four 4 gauge outputs? Thinking about adding a fourth amp in the future.

Yes it can, but it would depend on the collective potential load of your 4 amps and the total length of the 1/0 cable.

jmvotto
01-24-2013, 05:02 PM
If your running the harpoon at 2ohm would it increase the fuse rating from 80 to 160?

MLA
01-24-2013, 05:41 PM
If your running the harpoon at 2ohm would it increase the fuse rating from 80 to 160?

No. The Harpoon has 2 40A fuses plugged into the end panel by the power terminals. This is based on its max potential current draw @ 2 ohm x 2.

jmvotto
01-24-2013, 08:37 PM
cool so i can use a 250 resetable breaker from the battery to the block, then match each amp rating from there on out assuming the cables are properly rated..

great info thanks.

MLA
01-24-2013, 08:55 PM
With 12" of 1/0, you're with a 250A breaker. I think you could go with a 200A if you are going to run the 1500.1 @ 2 ohm as opposed to 1 ohm.

jfox8807
02-07-2013, 05:09 AM
I had that same stupid bus bar I also replaced it with that distro block. I used two 0ga trunk lines with the 200amp circuit breakers one per line. I fused the block with the manufactor recommended size fuses. And the nice thing about that distro block is if one 0ga line isn't anuff then u have a second one two back it up. I did mine mostly for looks tho.