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miscwtf
01-21-2013, 04:27 AM
Hello,

I bought a new 2012 LSV last week and am hoping to upgrade the audio sometime soon. Having only four cabin speakers powered by the deck makes me cringe. This is my first marine install so I do feel a little bit overwhelmed.


List so far-

Clarion EQS746 - I think I will have to split one signal for the cabins and use the other for the tower?
Kicker ZXM700.5 - cabin amp for stock kicker speakers and sub
Kicker Solo-Baric S12L34
Sub box- I'm building one
Xscorpion CB200L - 200amp breaker inline to the distro
Tsunami TSDB-8021 - (2) power and ground distro
2 Exile XM9, with Harpoon amplifier
RCA's
Various speaker/power wire/connectors
Second battery, BW R3098 relay, Battery box


Does it look like i've overlooked anything? Any suggestions?

Also, I havent had a chance to really look at it but my stock 1 battery system has a Blue seas battery switch (only options are 1 and off). Would it be alright to leave this intact and just install the isolator after the switch?


Thanks,

Proud new boat owner :D

moombadaze
01-21-2013, 09:06 AM
Congrats on the LSV, make sure and post a photo or 2 of it

jmvotto
01-21-2013, 09:30 AM
yes, same here

Welcome, you are certainly on the right track.

MLA
01-21-2013, 09:37 AM
Miscwtf,

EQ: If you are just looking for zone control, then check out the Kicker ZXM-RLC. add in the Kicker bass knob and you now have 3 independent zones. Its also a line driver and build for the marine world.

Amps: Good choices power wise, but I would suggest looking into more efficiant Class-D or Class-G/H amps. Your house battery will last longer at the same volume level. The Kicker IX1000.5 will deliver 75W rms to each of your in-boats and 500w rms to your 4 ohm dvc L3 12. For the tower, something like the Arc Audio KS600.2, which will deliver 300W to each of your 4 tower pods. Or the JL HD750/1 delivering just shy of 190W to each.

battery bank: Yes, you could add in a diode type isolater, leaving the basic ON/OFF switch intact.

EarmarkMarine
01-24-2013, 08:10 AM
miscwtf,
One very strong sugesstion.
At this late date in amplifier evolution I would go with 100 percent Class D amplification. Why?
Much smaller footprint.
One quarter of the heat generated at the same level of current draw.
60 percent more efficient. Longer playtime. Shallower cycles are healthier for batteries, even consumer grade deep cycle.
Less supply voltage sag at any comparable current draw which translates to more available output power.
There is no discernable sound quality difference between the better Class AB and the better Class D amplifiers.

David

bzubke1
01-24-2013, 01:37 PM
I would replace the battery switch with once where you can select each battery individually or combine the batteries, blue sea and perko each make one for around or less than $50. Might as well do it now if you think you may want to add it in the future. If you can fit it in the budget I would think about adding a shore charger. Having not had one for a few years and now having one, I love the peace of mind it gives me when I head out to the lake knowing both of my batteries are fully charged, it will also extend the life of your batteries.
http://www.starmarinedepot.com/ProMariner+ProSport+12+Gen+2+Battery+Charger.html? gclid=CJmJiOLDgbUCFUeRPAodp2UA2Q