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Ironcross25
05-17-2013, 12:34 PM
I'm getting a steady trickle of water comming between the prob shaft and brass fitting before the hose clamps. Is there a seal that can go bad? What's the fix like? It's enough of a leak to kick the bilge on after a while.

maxpower220
05-17-2013, 03:39 PM
Based on your options: you can re-pack the seal in there. It's fairly easy after you remove the cowling and the rear panel. You could just tighten up the adjusting nuts and see if that reduces/stops your leak. Lastly, you could convert it to a dripless.

While I have been able to repack them and have no leak at all, the manual states that is will leak a few drops per minute.

When I flew the Navy's E-6B, the engines were "allowed" to leak "up to" 30 drops per minute and still be "good". I only saw them leak once and it was in a "greater than 30" flow.
In helicopters: if it ain't leaking, it must be out of fluid.

motosno963
05-17-2013, 03:52 PM
any cons to a dripless? i think i might pick up a dripless drive seal

chadjitsu1
05-17-2013, 05:22 PM
Yea there is a draw back with having a dripless shaft seal. I personally had to change mine because they wear out just like any other seal. They are more complicated and in my opinion unnecessary. The biggest issue is when they go, they go. So you could be on the lake and fill up pretty quick with water with no way to empty it out. With the rope type seal you can generally tighten the nut a little in case of an emergency.

Also the dripless still drips. Well at least mine does. So if you want a totally dry bilge your out o luck either way.

cab13367
05-17-2013, 05:42 PM
I'm getting a steady trickle of water comming between the prob shaft and brass fitting before the hose clamps. Is there a seal that can go bad? What's the fix like? It's enough of a leak to kick the bilge on after a while.

It's supposed to drip a little, that's what keeps the packing rope lubricated. After a while, the rope needs to be replaced. Below is the replacement procedure. It's not hard and is much cheaper than going dripless.

http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/showthread.php?10841-Shaft-Packing-Replacement-on-2006-LSV&highlight=shaft+seal+cab13367

bergermaister
05-17-2013, 05:45 PM
Yea there is a draw back with having a dripless shaft seal. I personally had to change mine because they wear out just like any other seal.

How many hours do you think you got out of it before having to change it?

DOCDRS
05-17-2013, 05:48 PM
The dripless does not drip if its installed correctly and your alignment is within tolerances. So yes , why not have a dry bilge?

chadjitsu1
05-17-2013, 06:57 PM
The boat has about 550 hours on it and I would assume that the shaft seal has never been changed before. That is a long time and I understand that its a wear item but the worst part for me was the fact that it really went all at once. I noticed that my bilge was running a lot so I just happened to take a look and there was a lot of water in there and the shaft seal was dumping in a steady stream of water.

I had Atlanta marine install the new seal but it still leaks a little. I noticed it dripping the other day a little. I would also expect it to hold up to the name of "dripless" but it still leaks. I drive from Atlanta to the SC factory to pick it up so its a factory part literally. I just don't feel like paying another 750+ dollars to have it replaced again.

If I were to order a new boat from the factory I would not buy a dripless seal is all I'm getting at. Everyone has their own opinion on the issue but mine is keep it simple, who cares if you have a little water in the bilge. More then likely you will have a little water in there from people getting in and out of the boat, from life jackets and wet suits holding water, and from the rain that makes it through the cover.


How many hours do you think you got out of it before having to change it?

chadjitsu1
05-17-2013, 07:06 PM
The dripless does not drip if its installed correctly and your alignment is within tolerances. So yes , why not have a dry bilge?

I would think that they got it aligned correctly but I really have no way of telling. That's why I paid a ton for them to do it but who knows what they actually did. I personally don't have any feeler gauges to check alignment, maybe I should buy some and take the bolts out to see what it looks like. It may be off. I don't want to totally crap on the dripless idea, and I know a lot of boats have them, even really big boats. I just had a bad experience, I like the idea of just tightening a nut a half turn every few years and knowing I'm good to go. Also if it fails I like not having to tare off the V-Drive and all that stuff. Dripless is just really easy.

rdlangston13
05-17-2013, 08:43 PM
The boat has about 550 hours on it and I would assume that the shaft seal has never been changed before. That is a long time and I understand that its a wear item but the worst part for me was the fact that it really went all at once. I noticed that my bilge was running a lot so I just happened to take a look and there was a lot of water in there and the shaft seal was dumping in a steady stream of water.

I had Atlanta marine install the new seal but it still leaks a little. I noticed it dripping the other day a little. I would also expect it to hold up to the name of "dripless" but it still leaks. I drive from Atlanta to the SC factory to pick it up so its a factory part literally. I just don't feel like paying another 750+ dollars to have it replaced again.

If I were to order a new boat from the factory I would not buy a dripless seal is all I'm getting at. Everyone has their own opinion on the issue but mine is keep it simple, who cares if you have a little water in the bilge. More then likely you will have a little water in there from people getting in and out of the boat, from life jackets and wet suits holding water, and from the rain that makes it through the cover.

this really costs $750 bucks to get done???? i had a motor mount replaced for cheaper than that!!

chadjitsu1
05-17-2013, 08:45 PM
Well it was 550 for them to just install a new one. I actually already pulled off the v drive and everything. I just wanted them to install it and make sure it was aligned correctly so I'm guessing it would have been double that if I had them do the whole thing. I bought the 150 dollar part myself.

This is why I value this forum so much. It's ridiculous what these places charge. The boat was literally done in 3 hours.

rdlangston13
05-17-2013, 09:33 PM
Well it was 550 for them to just install a new one. I actually already pulled off the v drive and everything. I just wanted them to install it and make sure it was aligned correctly so I'm guessing it would have been double that if I had them do the whole thing. I bought the 150 dollar part myself.

This is why I value this forum so much. It's ridiculous what these places charge. The boat was literally done in 3 hours.

I just cant see my dealer charging that much for that repair. I have had much more work done for much less cost on my boat at my dealer



edit: my dealer just quoted me far less than 750 for the part and labor

chadjitsu1
05-17-2013, 09:34 PM
Me neither, oh wait ........

VA LSV
05-18-2013, 08:48 AM
Converted my 05 LSV to dripless. Over 400 hours later and still no drips. Tight working area but no need to remove the v-drive. I read where some installations fed the seal water supply off the manifold cooling line and had problems with the hot water causing the seal to expand and leak.

Ironcross25
05-18-2013, 10:51 AM
Thanks. I'll try to tighten first. I'm torn between the dripless and the regular now. I'll wait till after Memorial Day since we are taking our almost 2 year old camping for the first time. He loves the boat. Lets just hope he loves a tent. Lol

DOCDRS
05-18-2013, 11:12 AM
Converted my 05 LSV to dripless. Over 400 hours later and still no drips. Tight working area but no need to remove the v-drive. I read where some installations fed the seal water supply off the manifold cooling line and had problems with the hot water causing the seal to expand and leak.

There are some good points in this thread. The vdrive does not have to be removed to install a dripless seal. What some mechanics say is aligned is not. They may be one of the most knowledgeable mechanics but if they consider a .005 unsymmetrical or multiposition tolerance as aligned there is a problem. Manuals state a symmetrical or single position .002 max tolerance so I fail to see why anything greater is acceptable. The seal on the dripless seals is fragile and can be nicked if not carefully installed. Plus a cool water supply is needed as well. They are great when working but a pain if not installed correctly. The packed seals are great as well and if installed well should yield a drop a minute or less, even they can be close to dripless. I would take it back if I spent 750 and it dripped. Something is wrong and wrong things usually don't get better. There is no breaking on the dripless seals they just get worse as you have already experienced.

Va lsv, it's the seal housing they expands with the heat not the seal

rdlangston13
05-18-2013, 01:50 PM
so im pretty sure my dripless shaft cooling line comes from the hoses between the exhaust manifolds, it sounds like yall are saying this is wrong so here are my two questions, why would they design it wrong from the factory and where should it be tied in at?

Boonejeepin
05-18-2013, 02:32 PM
so im pretty sure my dripless shaft cooling line comes from the hoses between the exhaust manifolds, it sounds like yall are saying this is wrong so here are my two questions, why would they design it wrong from the factory and where should it be tied in at?

Theoretically the cooking line would tie into the raw water hose.

rdlangston13
05-18-2013, 02:39 PM
that just seems odd those because until that line gets to the impeller isnt it under a vacuum kind of?

VA LSV
05-18-2013, 03:07 PM
The kit included a 1x1x3/8 tee with instructions to install in the line before the manifolds.

And yes it is the housing that expands due to the water temp.

I would also take it back if I paid someone to install it and it still leaked.

jmb
05-18-2013, 09:50 PM
I think I may stick with my old seal. Don't have to replace it but about every 5 years. Would never add up to a dripless price

motosno963
05-19-2013, 01:38 PM
i was thinking about getting this one: http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=2181

NCSUmoomba
05-21-2013, 12:15 PM
I'll put my 2 cents in here. First, a dry bilge? What is that? If you have a dry bilge, you are playing hard enough!

As for which shaft seal to use, I think it depends on the boat. For a DD, a standard seal is probably the way to go. For a V-drive, they are harder to get to, so I can understand having a dripless. My original packing still works just fine, and I am at 560 hours, and only tightened it once.

Lake Bound
05-21-2013, 07:41 PM
I just took mine apart and there wasn't a piece of packing left in the nut! I was going to go dripless as well but since I have it apart I ordered the Gortex and going to give that a shot as I am trying to get the boat ready for Memorial weekend and there is no way my mechanic would have it done!

DOCDRS
05-21-2013, 11:51 PM
so im pretty sure my dripless shaft cooling line comes from the hoses between the exhaust manifolds, it sounds like yall are saying this is wrong so here are my two questions, why would they design it wrong from the factory and where should it be tied in at?

trial n error....they discovered the problem in 2009 so some 09 have them that way and some do not. As far as i can figure.....just an oopsy

Ironcross25
05-24-2013, 08:36 AM
I checked mine and it was super loose. I tightened a little. I will make my final adjustments on the water tonite when we get to camp.