View Full Version : 2000 Outback LS Alternator?? Amps??
03-27-2006, 11:48 PM
Does anyone know how many amps the standard alternator on a 2000 Outback LS puts out? What is the amp rating for the alternator?? Standard 315 hp Indmar engine. Thanks for the info.;) ;)
whoops....sorry....dont know why it posted twice...must be my PC.
03-28-2006, 12:05 AM
The amps on that model should be 51 Amps. Just had mine rewound to 95 Amps and the original stamp said 51. Hope that helps. Hope that you get to enjoy the boat.
03-28-2006, 05:52 PM
How much did it cost to have it rewound....can any standard alternator shop do the work??
03-29-2006, 12:51 AM
The rewind cost 200 dollars and was done by a standard alternator shop in, my area. It took about a week to get the parts in and they had it done the day the parts arrived.
I am also adding another battery with a combiner switch for the charging cycle and then when we are listening to the stereo while sitting it will isolate the batteries from each other.
04-07-2006, 03:18 PM
If you call indmar with your engine serial number they should be able to tell what your Alternator is. At least they will give the make and model they you can go on line to look it up at your alternator manufactures web site. I just did this with my 2005.
As far as the 2nd battery setup, I have started down this path and let me tell you it is not picnic. I first tried an isolator and it will not work because the alternator senses the battery over the larger cable from the engine. The isolator would not allow the battery behind it to be sensed.
I am interest in your setup Tygger. Are you just going to use a standard 2 position switch(1 or 2 or both or off)? If so are you worried about over charging one battery when you have it on both? Have you wired it up and does the alternator sense the batteries past the switch?
The easiest method for this is the voltage regulator from your dealer. It is about 100 buck but no manual switches. It charges the engine battery first then it automatically switches to the house(acc) battery when the engine battery is fully charged.
04-08-2006, 12:27 PM
I am using a constant duty switch, the switch is hooked up directly to the run position on the ignition switch. When you go to start the motor the switch connects the batteries for charging while you are running and isolates them when the key is in the off position.
I too looked at all the alternatives, checked with the local shops around town and finally decided to go this route. When checking the output on the alternator, I found that the first battery and the second battery were both getting about 13.5 volts during the charge. So far it appears to work very well.
The nice part is that it is all automatic with very little chance for both batteries to run all the way down at the same time. Hope that this helps, also the constant duty switch(soliniod) was only 35 or 40 dollars depending on were you get it from.
04-11-2006, 02:27 PM
The RV battery disconnect relay is about $15 and can be found at RV stores. I would recommend running the relay activation wire from a accessory wire (hot when the engine is running) to a manual disconnect switch and then to the relay. The batteries will be isolated when the engine is off or when you hit the disconnect switch while the engine is running. Simple operation and takes up very little space.
04-11-2006, 02:31 PM
I put a website on my last post but it is a latching relay and is different than what I explained. It would work but would be more expensive. The operation is similar but activation during engine run is just as good as a latching system. Sorry for the confusion,
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