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cab13367
07-02-2007, 02:03 PM
I have a 2006 LSV and am planning to change the oil tonight. I have located the oil drain hose and have routed it out the drain plug hole. Can someone please confirm that I just need to remove the cap at the end of the drain line hose to drain the oil, and that there is no additional valve at the oil pan that I need to open to drain the oil? I hope not as there is not much room at all in that area, and I can barely get my hands on the fitting.

Thanks,

Al

qb12
07-02-2007, 02:21 PM
just remove the cap and let it drain. try to make sure the oil is warm or it will take forever to drain.

Yellowmobius
07-02-2007, 03:13 PM
I have an 04 LSV and I change my own oil as well.
I jack up the left rear side of the trailer so the oil drains off the right rear corner of the wakeplate.
Other tips.

Put a ziplock or some other kind of plastic bag around the oil filter before you take it off, keep the oil mess in the bag and not in the engine compartment.

Also loosen the oil fill cap, the oil will drain a little faster. I always let mine drain overnight.

cab13367
07-02-2007, 04:36 PM
Thanks for the tips. I plan to park the boat in my driveway so that the nose is pointed up my sloped driveway and allow the oil to flow downhill. I will also run the boat prior to draining to ensure oil is warm/hot.

About the wakeplate, I am planning to unscrew it from the cylinders to get it out of the way of the path of the oil.

Al

Yellowmobius
07-02-2007, 04:57 PM
It is really not a big deal letting the oil drain on the wakeplate. after I just use a paper towel to wipe the oil off the plate.

qb12
07-03-2007, 10:01 AM
cab, if you plan on doing your own service, why don't you just buy a oil changer. simply insert the hose into your dip stick and suck the oil out. no mess.

Chefwong
07-03-2007, 10:21 AM
You can buy a hand pump that sucks it all out from habor frieght tools pretty cheap, I dont even mess with the line out the back

cab13367
07-03-2007, 01:16 PM
qb and chef,

It just seems to me, and maybe I'm wrong, that you get more of the oil out (and the metal filings - this is the 1st oil change) if you drain it out the bottom rather than suck it out the top. Having said that though, I only got 4 quarts out the drain hose (supposed to get 5) even after letting it drain for about two hours. I think I made two mistakes: (1) I did not run the engine long enough to get the oil warm enough and two, (2) I positioned the boat such that the bow was quite a bit higher than the stern thinking that it would allow the oil to flow out the back a little easier. This strategy proved faulty because the oil drains out of the front of the oil pan which means some oil got stuck in the back of the oil pan, or at least, that's what I concluded. I guess I should have positioned the boat level and let gravity do it's thing.

I will be getting a pump to suck the V-drive and tranny fluid out though. There's no (practical) option to drain those out the bottom that I know of.

Thanks,

Al

04OUTBACK
09-09-2007, 12:54 AM
AL,
I tried today and it seemed as though I could not get the hose stretched far enough to get it out of the drain plug.. maybe I missed a routing of it and it was caught on something. From reading the above posts, I am guessing you can't get it much farther out than just enough to remove the nut...
I have been thinking since I tried about getting about 2 more feet of hose with that type of screw on fitting... that would be nice!
Anybody good with hose and fittings?

teamctl
09-09-2007, 01:14 AM
I have the 07 Outback V and I could only pull about 4 qts from the dipstick. My oil drain hose goes to (not through) the rear boat drain plug. I definately agree with a 2 ft extenstion. It would be nice if the oil drain hose extended past the wakeplate. I, too, want to know how other people deal with this. Is there a fitting that can be attached to this hose that's readily available?

Thanks for the insight!

Jay

Nafplio
09-09-2007, 02:09 AM
Had the same problem last year. There are two large nylock nuts with threads protruding right under the oil pan. I had to route the hose over them and to the other side before it reached out the drain hole.
I let the oil drain overnight and used a large syringe at the end of the drain hose for the rest. Got about 5 quarts out.

lowdrag
09-09-2007, 08:58 AM
A couple of tips that I can give for draining the oil. Go to a hardware store and just buy some plastic tubing that will slide over the threads or drain tube if you don't want the oil running on the wake plate. Unscrew the nut off of the fitting and slide the tubing on, easy. Check the routing of the drain tube prior draining the oil. I noticed that mine has a tendency to get hung up on the control arm for the rudder, causing a high spot. It also shortens the tube enough that you don't have much to get through the hull. Use a pair of vice grips and lightly clamp them around the drain tube on the outside of the hull. This will keep you from accidentally knocking the tube back in the hull and draining oil into it. It also helps if you are trying to slide an extension hose over the drain hose.

04OUTBACK
09-09-2007, 11:50 AM
Good ideas guys.. My thought process right now is to get some air compressor hose fittings to see if they fit the threads on the hose. Then I'll craft an additional length of hose.. I'll let you know how that works.. although sliding some tubing over the threads sounds pretty simple...

Psmartell
09-09-2007, 09:03 PM
Gentlemen,concerning the draining of your oil and not getting more than 4 qts. out of the pan is not out of line.You must remember that there is roughly one qt.in your oil filter which makes 5 qts which is pretty much the standard capacity of a 5.7 litre engine. And as for using a used oil drain pump to pull out your used engine oil it will do a very good job of removing any suspended babbit material that is a normal occurence in any babbit bearing engine and as for any metal"chunks"that might be on the bottom by any slim chance would not drain out that 3/8 in line any way. If you happen to have any large debris in your crank case ie carbon deposits they will more than likely stay on the bottom of your pan and stay there until the pan is actually removed. I have used lubricant extractors for many years to remove all types of fluids during my career as a auto technician and agree with the one gentleman who spoke of a clean oilchanging procedure. I use mine all the time to change all my fluids on our 06LSV and would bet money they use them at all service centers as time is money in the repair world. Just my thoughts

04OUTBACK
09-09-2007, 11:36 PM
Curious question?
When you use the pump to suction oil out of the dipstick, is the release of vacuum pressure coming from the open oil filler cap?

I fished mine around a bit today and got a clear piece of hose and a hose clamp and fed the hose out of the drain and down to my oil pan. Engine was a room temp (NOT HOT) and the oil dripped FOREVER! Never again will I do that cold without a pump.

Sounds like the pump is the way to go for all fluids. I am sure I will need a VDrive fluid change this winter. I'll look into the pumps.
I set out to build a whole new hose assembly with air compressor hose but lowdrag suggested sliding hose over the threads.. worked like a charm. no need to build a new hose extension with threaded end.. too much work.


ON an aside, has anyone taken their boat to a drive through oil change place? just curious. I imagine there is at least one locally that has experience... My nearest dealer is 180 miles away, although they have a guy nearby that is contracted with and there is an Indmar service center on the water here.... I try to do as much as I can to keep from making the drive.
BW

Psmartell
09-10-2007, 06:19 PM
04Outback,to answer your question you do not have to open your filler cap to release any vacuum from the pan. Your engine is not sealed tight enough to be able to pull a very deep vacuum and the pump is some thing in the line of a fuel pump or the manual ones work off pressure differences ie a vacuum if you want to call it that. There are also extractors that use shop air that does use a venturi principal also to remove fluids. It all depends on how much money you want to spend on a piece of equipment so going on a Snap On truck would not be my first choice if I were you. Believe me I know how much they charge on those loan sharking oh i mean buisness vehicles. A very cheap one from harbor frieght or even from Overtons that runs off your battery will do. I hope that helps you out

04OUTBACK
09-10-2007, 08:03 PM
Thanks PSMartell
I think I'll get the Harbor Freight model or the Overtons 12v electric.

moomba_armada
09-13-2007, 07:57 AM
This is my experience.
First time I used an electric pump for the oil change..but pump was too slow and I had to get the battery out to connect it...pump dead before, when doing second oil change so...I bought a manual pump, run the hose into the engine oil drain pipe and took almost whole oil out..but still couldnīt took out all of it..so I used a hose clamp on the oil drain pipe because it sounded like no vacuum was being done...it worked perfect then, took all the oil out, around 4 litres...
Planning to use the pump for transmission and V- Drive oil changes also.
Thanks again to that person who posted the plastic bag tip for the il filter change..really great idea!!
Sorry again for my english, not enough vocabulary so I use too many words to mean a simple concrete thing maybe :lol: