View Full Version : Tower Speaker Wiring
05-06-2008, 10:11 PM
Sorry if this has been covered before. I just bought two tower speakers loaded with Polk Audio db651's, same speakers that I have in the boat. I have a 2006 Mobius LSV. The tower has a couple (?) wires running through it for the tower mounted navigation light. The wire enters the tower thru a hole under the front starboard tower leg and exits via a hole on the back side of the front tower cross tubing then runs a few inches to the light. It also exits and re-enters at the front leg pivot point. My question is, has anyone been successful pulling two sets of speaker wires through the same holes that the nav light wiring runs thru? I would prefer to not drill any additional holes in the tower.
BTW, below are the tower speakers that I bought. Is anyone else running these? Hope they are okay. I got a pretty good deal on them.
05-06-2008, 11:24 PM
I can't speak for running the wires as mone was done when i picked it up. They did however run the speaker wires through the tower leg on the other side, it mirrors the nav light side.
Those speaker cans are made by DIY Wake (http://www.diywake.com/shop/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=71&cat=Speaker+Cans) in Folsom, CA. I used the exact same cans from them when i built the sound system on my old Tigé. They are quality cans but there are a couple things to watch. First the allen bolts that hold the speakers to the clamps can back out so use a large flat washer, lock wasker and add a touch of blue locktite to them. Second, the binding posts on the top can also back off so use an open end ring or spade connector on the end of your speaker wire so you can really torque them down.
Otherwise they are great and should sound killer with the Polks. Some say to add a bit of sound deading material inside to deaden the tinny sounds. I was using Rockfords and it didn't seem to make that much of a difference to me but you might notice it.
05-07-2008, 12:07 AM
Thanks for the tips, I appreciate it.
05-07-2008, 09:41 AM
I just ran two 12g wires through the port holes, and it was pretty tough even with no other wires going through. If I were you I would go with something smaller than 12g in this case.
05-07-2008, 10:02 AM
I ran my wires down the opposite side as well. The reason being is my amps are located there. I had to drill the holes in the tube to run the wires. Not really that hard. I had a new bit for this. I then ran a 14g wire down the inside of the tube. I made a hook on the end. At the opposite end, I fished the wire through with another pieceif 14g wire. I also made a hook on this end. Were the tower meets the boat, I removed the foot and drilled a hole throught the boat. I made sure when I put the foot back that it does not pinch the wires. A little time and patience, and it will look great.
05-07-2008, 04:04 PM
Thanks for that info. I will not be using 12 gauge, probably more like 16 or 14 gauge, so I hope I can make it work.
Thanks for the input. I want to try to use the existing holes first but it's good to know that I have the option of going down the other leg. It's just a lot more work.
Look forward to seeing the pics of your recent projects.
05-07-2008, 07:29 PM
I just got confirmation about my new speaker and light cambo. It should be here on Thursday. When everything is finished, I will post picts from start to finish. I think we can now use a photo gallery on this sight.
05-08-2008, 01:30 AM
When you removed the tower foot to drill the hole, did you have to remove the rear foot as well?
05-08-2008, 10:06 AM
No, Just the front foot. When I removed the front foot, I had place lots of padding arond the leg. This prevented the boat from getting scratched.
05-08-2008, 03:17 PM
On my 2006, the front foot is welded to the down tube which is welded to the rear down tube and the rear foot. So how do you get enough play to move the front foot out of the way in order to drill the hole if you don't also unbolt the rear foot?
05-08-2008, 06:58 PM
I guess my down tube is different. I have two allen screws that hold the tube to the foot. Do you think there will be any play if you take off the bolts that connect the tower to your deck. If you do, try to look under the foot to see if the is a hole there for the wire to go through
05-09-2008, 01:51 AM
That's interesting. Mine is definitely welded together. I will get under there when I get a chance to see if they pre-drilled a hole under the port side front tower leg.
05-10-2008, 12:12 PM
There is no hole under the port front tower foot. However, the screws to the rear foot are easily accessible so it won't be a problem to remove the entire lower half of the tower on that side. I didn't realize the area under the rear foot was open so I can access the nuts directly - I thought I had to remove a speaker and stick may arm thru the opening.
I got my tower speakers yesterday and they are excellent quality - very happy with them.
I will test fit first though to make sure there's room to fully open the bimini under it.
Did your new custom light/speaker bar come in yet? Hopefully it fits this time?
05-10-2008, 08:02 PM
Yes, it came in. I had to work today. I did not have time to finish the install. I will work on it this week. I hope to hit the water for the first time this year this comming Saturday.
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