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cab13367
09-07-2008, 12:01 AM
So I've been noticing the bilge coming on more frequently lately so today, with the engine off and adrift, I checked the packing nut and there's a steady stream of water coming in.

After I got the boat home and out of the water, I took a close look at the packing nut and lock nut. They are tight against each other and I tried to move the packing nut by hand but couldn't. This is a 2006 with 67 hours on it. How do I go about tightening the packing nut? Should I back off the lock nut a few turns, tighten the packing nut, then tighten the lock nut against the packing nut? Or is it time to replace the packing already?

I am going to Lake Billy Chinook on Wednesday and will have the boat in the water continuously until Sunday so I'd rather not have the bilge kick on every few minutes 24/7.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Al

04OUTBACK
09-07-2008, 10:17 AM
Al
as you said, yes, go ahead and back off the lock nut, then tighten the packing nut. then retighten the lock nut.

It is best to do this in the water so you don't over tighten.. you want a slow drip (1 drip every 30-45 secs.) to lube the packing nut..

I have replaced mine this summer with the goretex packing from skidim.com .
But I doubt you "NEED" to replace yours yet.. probably just tighten it down some...

BW

james yarosz
09-07-2008, 10:37 AM
I have a 2003 ls with over 300 hours and I still have the original packing.I have adjusted the packing nuts two or three times so far.As stated it's best to do it in the water and just tighten it up till it drips about once every 30 seconds.

cab13367
09-07-2008, 12:24 PM
James/Brad,

Thanks for your replies.

Brad,

Since we have the same boat, could you tell me how you accessed the packing nut to tighten it? On the port side, looks like the raw water intake is in the way. On the starboard side, the raw water hose is in the way. Seems like I need to remove the raw water hose to make room for the channel locks but I can't do that on the water. Or can I?

Thanks again.

Al

wayne_v
09-07-2008, 03:15 PM
I also have a 2006LSV and just noticed the same problem last weekend. A steady stream of water from the packing nut. Any tips on how to get into the jam nut to loosen and then tighten it would be helpful.

04OUTBACK
09-07-2008, 09:18 PM
Al,
I remove the white Fiberglass cover under the back seat and reach under from the port side. Channel locks Definitely!
I don't have the strainer.. I am thinking that removing it on the water is a bad idea...

I have to reach my arm under the hose to get to it I think.

cab13367
09-08-2008, 12:25 AM
Okay, will give it a try.

Thanks,

Al

spyder
09-08-2008, 04:57 PM
replacement you need to pull theboat out of the water, but tightening leave it in for sure... did my 06 with about 125 hours on it at t he time this spring.

RobertJ
09-08-2008, 06:39 PM
Hey guys I have the same problem on my '02 LSV and the service manager said the best wrench to use for adjustments is an adjustable sink drain wrench. I am sure this sounds cheesey but they are compact and can be used without removing the hoses. You can find them at Home Depot for about $15.00 each. These wrenchs also are smooth and they won't chew up the brass like channel locks.

RobertJ
09-08-2008, 06:42 PM
This is the wrench found on www.grainger

2GWK4
Adjustable Combo Wrench,1 To 3 In,Zinc
Adjustable Combo Wrench, Capacity 1 To 3 In, Overall Length 10 1/2 In, Construction Zinc, Features Non-Slip Rubber Grip Handle SUPERIOR TOOL
3840 1 1-3 Days $17.13 N/A

cab13367
09-08-2008, 10:20 PM
Thanks Robert - I'll give that a try.

cab13367
09-15-2008, 04:12 PM
Hey guys I have the same problem on my '02 LSV and the service manager said the best wrench to use for adjustments is an adjustable sink drain wrench. I am sure this sounds cheesey but they are compact and can be used without removing the hoses. You can find them at Home Depot for about $15.00 each. These wrenchs also are smooth and they won't chew up the brass like channel locks.

Robert,

Just wanted to say thanks again for this suggestion - it worked great and it left no marks on the packing nut like the channel locks would have.

BTW, for others that need to do this, I found that you had to access the packing nut from both the port and the starboard sides. You can only turn it so far from one side, then you can't get the wrench back on from that side so you have to go to the other side. So you go back and forth like that until you get the drip within spec. It also helps to hold the prop shaft coupler so that the prop shaft doesn't turn when you tighten the packing nut.

Al

Buttafewcoe
09-15-2008, 07:27 PM
I've been able to loosen the jamb nut then tighten the packing nut by hand to get the proper drip, then tighten the jamb nut back up
.
hope this helps
.
B

cab13367
09-16-2008, 03:46 AM
I've been able to loosen the jamb nut then tighten the packing nut by hand to get the proper drip, then tighten the jamb nut back up
.
hope this helps
.
B

butta,

I tried tightening it by hand at first but could not get the proper drip rate that way.

Al

Buttafewcoe
09-16-2008, 04:38 PM
Eat yer wheaties, then try it again.....jk,......I was afraid of tightening it too much and really causing probs. In over 4 years, I've only had to adjust it once.
.
B

cab13367
09-16-2008, 05:43 PM
Eat yer wheaties, then try it again.....jk,......I was afraid of tightening it too much and really causing probs. In over 4 years, I've only had to adjust it once.
.
B

It would have taken more than Wheaties, maybe a can of spinach :D

I had to give the packing nut quite a few turns with the wrench to finally get it to drip within spec. Unfortunately, I didn't notice that the prop shaft was turning every time I turned the packing nut until the very end so maybe that had something to do with it.

Al

lowdrag
09-17-2008, 08:34 AM
I've always been told that if you have to do much more than hand tighten the packing nut to get the correct drip rate that its a good sign that it's probably time to replace the packing.