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View Full Version : Winterization Procedure with pics - new and improved



cab13367
10-27-2008, 02:39 AM
I posted a winterization procedure a couple months ago. This is the new and improved version. I had the service guy at the Mooma dealership walk me thru the procedure when I first bought my boat. These are the notes from that walk thru which I have edited and improved on the last couple of years.

I winterized my boat today and took some pics, so below is the new and improved winterization procedure with pics. Note that I ran the boat on the river for about 15 minutes then winterized her at the boat ramp parking lot so the oil would still be hot.

Hopefully, this will help someone who is considering self-winterizing.

Winterizing Instructions for 2006 Moomba Mobius LSV
(other years and models may vary)

A. Put Sta-Bil in fuel, 1 ounce per 2.5 gallons so 16 ounces for a full tank (40 gallons).
B. Run the boat on a body of water for at least 10-15 minutes to get the engine oil nice and hot. This suspends the bad stuff in the oil and allows it to be sucked out or drained with the oil. It will also allow the oil to drain/be sucked out faster. Drive it back on the trailer and with the engine still running, remove the spark arrester (held in place by a large hose clamp). Spray 4-6 ounces of fogging oil into the throttle body then shut off engine immediately. Replace flame arrester.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3026.jpg

C. Let the boat sit 5 - 10 minutes to let the oil cool a little. This would be a good time to disconnect the battery to avoid accidentally causing a spark if your ratchet handle touches the positive cable on the starter while removing the block drain plug. Drain/Change the oil and oil filter (I use a Fram PH30 filter and Shell Rotella T 15W40, crankcase capacity is 5.5 quarts including filter). Use a gallon size ziploc bag around the filter to catch the oil and the oil filter and avoid getting oil on the carpet. I drained the oil at the boat ramp parking lot as it’s a 30 minute drive back to the house and the oil would cool off too much by then. Best method I found is to use a fluid extractor (Pela 6000 worked great for me) and suck it out of the oil drain hose, not the dipstick tube. This way, you know you are sucking it out of the low point of the oil pan since the oil drain hose is attached to the oil pan where the oil pan drain plug would normally be.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3024.jpg

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3025.jpg

cab13367
10-27-2008, 02:44 AM
D. Drain all water from the block and hoses as follows: (note that for the purpose of this write up, aft is the end of the engine closest to the transom of the boat and fore is the end closest to the bow).

From port side of engine:
1) Separate the exhaust manifold hoses by separating the hose fitting. The two hoses come together at the fore end of the engine, on the port side. Disconnecting the two hoses drains the two manifolds.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3031.jpg

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3033.jpg
2) Remove the port engine block plug using a 9/16” socket.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/portsideplug2.jpg
3) Disconnect the bottom of the "J" hose where it connects to the water recirc pump.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_5384.jpg

cab13367
10-27-2008, 02:46 AM
4) Remove the plug underneath the muffler, on the port side using a 3/8” socket. Use a container to catch the water so it doesn’t drain onto the carpet.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3036.jpg

From the starboard side of the engine:
5) Remove the starboard engine block plug using a 9/16” socket.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3028.jpg
6) Disconnect and drain the two hoses attached to the water pump which is attached to the main pulley on the aft end of the engine. Use a 5/16” nut driver on the hose clamps.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3037.jpg

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3038.jpg

7) Remove the impeller from the water pump using a 5/16” nut driver to remove the impeller housing cover. Access to impeller is improved if you remove the small, fixed engine access cover towards the back of the boat, on the starboard side. Use needle nose vise grips to carefully remove impeller. Stick one jaw between the impeller blades and the other into the middle of the impeller, all the way in. Carefully pull out impeller. I like using vise grip needle nose pliers because the jaws stay parallel and therefore, grab better. Coat the impeller with Vaseline and put it in an airtight (ziplock) bag. If the impeller is two years old, replace it with a new one. It’s a Johnson Pump impeller, part # 09-812B-1. Be careful not to overtighten the impeller cover screws as they are fairly soft.

cab13367
10-27-2008, 02:53 AM
From the v-drive:

8) Remove the two (2) plugs on the v-drive unit, one on the front on the port side, the other on the rear on the starboard side. Both plugs are pretty high up on the v-drive housing. A 7/16” closed end wrench fits perfectly on the square head plug. The front is a vent plug and you might not get any water out of it. Look for the wrench to see the location of the drain plug.
Front:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3040.jpg

Back:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3043.jpg

9) Remove and drain the water intake hose at the v-drive.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3048.jpg

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3049.jpg

cab13367
10-27-2008, 02:56 AM
10) Drain the ballast system as follows:
(a) Disconnect and drain the hoses at the solenoids using the quick disconnects on the hoses. Watch for rubber o-rings and make sure they don’t fall out.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3044.jpg

(b) Remove water strainer and housing and drain. Clean strainer if dirty. Be careful when screwing the strainer and housing back on as the strainer has to properly seat on the top and on the bottom. Don’t leave this to chance – look at the top of the stainer when screwing it back on to make sure it lines up correctly.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3045.jpg

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3046.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/Winterizing/IMG_3047.jpg

(c) Disconnect and drain the bags, then put one capful of bleach in them to prevent mold.

E) Remove each spark plug and spray fogging oil into each cylinder for about 2 – 3 seconds. Spray a little fogging oil on the spark plug hole threads. With all the spark plugs still out, bump the starter for 1 second to evenly coat the cylinder walls with the fogging oil. Reinstall the spark plugs. You should be able to turn them by hand all the way until they seat. Tighten with a ratchet and spark plug socket.

I leave the hoses disconnected and the drain plugs out over the winter. I put a little grease on the threads on the block and the v-drive unit as they will become rusty over the winter and the plugs will be difficult to install in the spring if you don’t.

If you drain the water with the boat in your garage, be aware that enough water is drained out of the block and hoses that the bilge pump will probably kick on.

Just to double check, you should have removed two engine block plugs, two v-drive plugs, and one muffler plug for a total of five plugs in all.

Don't forget to winterize your heater system if you have one (I don't).

csmsk
10-27-2008, 06:20 PM
HOLY CRAP, CAB!!!! That's gotta be the best winterization post ever! Thank you very much for the in depth coverage of your procedure. I'm sure many DIYers on here will appreciate your post as much as I do.

Bcoutsfly
10-27-2008, 07:46 PM
Do you not run antifreeze through your engine??

futuredeadguy
10-27-2008, 08:22 PM
The most useful and timely information I've found on the web in years.

Freeze is coming to Nashville this week and when I called the guy who always does my winterizing today, his phone has been disconnected and his web site is gone as well (Anyone know what happened to Ski Hut? - probably posted here somewhere - will check around).

I rigged up a temporary compartment heater with a couple 60 watt bulbs to get me through 'til my winterizing supplies get here.

Now that I have some decent instructions, this will never happen to me again.

Thank You!

Dead

csmsk
10-27-2008, 09:50 PM
Do you not run antifreeze through your engine??

Should be no reason for antifreeze if you get the water out.

cab13367
10-27-2008, 10:45 PM
Dead,

You're welcome - that's exactly why I did it, hoping to be able to help someone like you.

csmk,

Thanks. I know you are a seasoned vet at this so please review it to make sure I didn't miss anything.

Thanks,

Al

cab13367
10-27-2008, 10:48 PM
The most useful and timely information I've found on the web in years.

Freeze is coming to Nashville this week and when I called the guy who always does my winterizing today, his phone has been disconnected and his web site is gone as well (Anyone know what happened to Ski Hut? - probably posted here somewhere - will check around).

I rigged up a temporary compartment heater with a couple 60 watt bulbs to get me through 'til my winterizing supplies get here.

Now that I have some decent instructions, this will never happen to me again.

Thank You!

Dead


Dead,

Just to be sure, you could remove then re-install just the block plugs to make sure you don't crack your block in case something happens to your lights or if they don't do the trick. It will only take you a few minutes and could potentially save you thousands of dollars.

Al

poohlvhun
10-28-2008, 11:34 AM
Thank you SOOO much for the pics! This clears up a lot of questions!

I have one more question tho; I have a direct drive, does that mean i don't have to drain anything else since I am skipping the "v-drive" part?

98outback
10-28-2008, 01:11 PM
With the new ethanol i have heard different things about storing for the winter.

Cab

Did you fill your tank completly or did you drain it? WHats your opinion on this.

liquidlite
10-28-2008, 03:33 PM
dude, thank you so much!

cab13367
10-28-2008, 03:52 PM
Thank you SOOO much for the pics! This clears up a lot of questions!

I have one more question tho; I have a direct drive, does that mean i don't have to drain anything else since I am skipping the "v-drive" part?

I think so but you might call your dealer service guy just to make sure. I've never even seen the engine bay of a direct drive so I don't know for sure.

cab13367
10-28-2008, 03:55 PM
With the new ethanol i have heard different things about storing for the winter.

Cab

Did you fill your tank completly or did you drain it? WHats your opinion on this.
I filled it completely. I put the Stabil in before filling up the tank then ran the boat 15 minutes on a body of water to make sure the Stabil is thouroughly mixed in with the fuel. I have always put my boats away for winter with Stabil and a full tank and have never had a problem come spring.

Besides, I am pretty sure that with the recent drop in gas prices, filling up now is going to cost me a lot less than filling up in the spring!

cab13367
10-28-2008, 03:56 PM
dude, thank you so much!

Dude, you're welcome!

98outback
10-28-2008, 07:37 PM
On the port side of my boat i have a knock sensor instead of a drain plug. Do i just take this off to drain the water? Also does anyone know what size wrench i will need. This has the vortec 350 fuel injected engine. Thanks

james
10-28-2008, 07:50 PM
nicely done.

choard
10-28-2008, 08:34 PM
I used your first posting guide to winterize my boat but with the pictures this is probably the best post I have seen!

One trouble I am having is removing the impeller, i'll have to get those needle nose vise-grips. other boats i have had the impeller slid right out?

Anyways thank-you.

jclay5
10-28-2008, 09:43 PM
Dead,

You're welcome - that's exactly why I did it, hoping to be able to help someone like you.

csmk,

Thanks. I know you are a seasoned vet at this so please review it to make sure I didn't miss anything.

Thanks,

Al

Cab,

Are 5 nuts the same size? or do you label them and put them in different bags?

cab13367
10-28-2008, 11:25 PM
On the port side of my boat i have a knock sensor instead of a drain plug. Do i just take this off to drain the water? Also does anyone know what size wrench i will need. This has the vortec 350 fuel injected engine. Thanks

I honestly don't know. Sorry.

cab13367
10-28-2008, 11:32 PM
I used your first posting guide to winterize my boat but with the pictures this is probably the best post I have seen!

One trouble I am having is removing the impeller, i'll have to get those needle nose vise-grips. other boats i have had the impeller slid right out?

Anyways thank-you.

choard,

I think my first posting guide had you removing a third water pump hose that didn't exist. I've since edited that post.

Once I removed the impeller cover and the hoses to the water pump, I liberally sprayed the impeller with silicone lubricant. I did this after I removed all the plugs and sprayed it with fogging oil. Then I hit the starter to spin the engine briefly. This lubricates the impeller and the housing and makes it a little easier to pull out the impeller.

Be gentle with the needle nose vise-grips - you don't want to actually "lock" them on the impeller or if you do, make sure you don't put too much pressure on the impeller. The fact that the jaws stays parellel means it has lots of gripping surface so you don't have to squeeze it that tight.

Good luck.

Al

cab13367
10-28-2008, 11:33 PM
Cab,

Are 5 nuts the same size? or do you label them and put them in different bags?

The two block plugs have a hex head and the two v-drive plugs have a square head. They are NOT interchangeable. The muffler plug looks completely different than either.

Al

cab13367
10-28-2008, 11:41 PM
Should be no reason for antifreeze if you get the water out.

csmsk is right - either replace the water with anti-freeze, or drain the water. You don't need to do both.

jclay5
10-28-2008, 11:57 PM
csmsk is right - either replace the water with anti-freeze, or drain the water. You don't need to do both.

So wouldn't it just be easier to replace the water with antifreeze rather than pulling all the plugs out? Is one way better than the other>?

cab13367
10-29-2008, 12:13 AM
So wouldn't it just be easier to replace the water with antifreeze rather than pulling all the plugs out? Is one way better than the other>?

I don't know, I've never done it the other way. How would you go about replacing all the water with anti-freeze and making sure that you got all the water out? Then you've got to properly dispose of the anti-freeze in the spring. Removing the plugs and disconnecting the hoses really does not take that much time, maybe 15-20 minutes total. It's just 5 plugs and 4 hoses.

I'd be interested to hear the procedure for replacing the water with anti-freeze though.

Al

Bluepilot
10-29-2008, 12:13 AM
Very nice bro! But I'd like to add one small item, HEATER anyone? Dont forget to blow out your heater lines and core out with compressed air. I could not find a drain for my heater core on my 2008 lsv. If anyone knows please post! I must say best post I've seen!

cab13367
10-29-2008, 12:16 AM
Very nice bro! But I'd like to add one small item, HEATER anyone? Dont forget to blow out your heater lines and core out with compressed air. I could not find a drain for my heater core on my 2008 lsv. If anyone knows please post! I must say best post I've seen!

Bluepilot,

Thanks, and good point. I don't have a heater in my boat (yet) so I don't have to worry about it :)

Al

pnichol080
10-29-2008, 01:17 PM
Does anyone know the Napa part number for the oil filter, and impeller? I have the 325 Indmar.

04OUTBACK
10-29-2008, 01:30 PM
Oil Filters
----------------
AC/Delco PF25
Castrol CM30
Fram PH30
Napa 1069
Pennzoil PZ3
Penske PN30
Purolator L20049
Motorcraft FL10
Quaker State QS30
WIX 51069

Impeller is Johnson 812 or 812B
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP061018

JesseC
10-29-2008, 02:40 PM
ummm, just in case I do, when will you be posting the reverse process?


Ed, just flip your monitor over and read from top to bottom. Should work.


Don't forget to disconnect your battery. No reason to allow a slow drain when your boat is not in use.

JesseC
10-29-2008, 02:47 PM
Cab,

Are 5 nuts the same size? or do you label them and put them in different bags?


Careful with this one! Even though the bolt/plug threads look the same, they are not!!! The ones in the engine block have a hexagonal head with TAPERED threading. The V-Drive plugs have a square head with standard threading(correction, I think they are just less tapered than the engine ones). I got them backwards one year and the V-Drive bolts will not go into the engine water jacket very far. All you will get is about two threads in and they stop. Be careful putting the correct ones back in, it is really simple to remember which ones go where.

Hexagonal - engine water jacket
Square - V-drive

cab13367
10-29-2008, 03:50 PM
Careful with this one! Even though the bolt/plug threads look the same, they are not!!! The ones in the engine block have a hexagonal head with TAPERED threading. The V-Drive plugs have a square head with standard threading(correction, I think they are just less tapered than the engine ones). I got them backwards one year and the V-Drive bolts will not go into the engine water jacket very far. All you will get is about two threads in and they stop. Be careful putting the correct ones back in, it is really simple to remember which ones go where.

Hexagonal - engine water jacket
Square - V-drive

Jesse,

Thanks for pointing that out. I thought that they are different sizes but maybe not.

Al

cab13367
10-29-2008, 03:53 PM
Does anyone know the Napa part number for the oil filter, and impeller? I have the 325 Indmar.

The impeller part number is in my post: 09-812B-1 and it's for a Johnson pump.

Al

Wake Master
10-30-2008, 09:35 PM
Remember if you have the 340HP with the EXT/CAT exhaust do not fog the engine. The fogging oil is not good for the CAT's. It is recommended to pull each spark plug and spray a small amount of oil in each.

LSV04
11-01-2008, 08:14 PM
Cab For President!!!!!

csmsk
11-01-2008, 09:16 PM
Second....

helix_rider
11-02-2008, 05:02 PM
Okay, so I love Cab's new and improved version. This is the 3rd year I've done my own winterization, but NO one (dealer, friends, etc) ever told me about the drain in the port muffler. I took A LOT of water out of that.

I did have an interesting (read: SCARY) experience though, and was hoping some of you more mechanically inclined could help me out. I removed the starboard engine block drain plug with no issues. I then went to the port side, and if you've done this, you know what I mean, the plug is kinda in an awkward place, you are crunched up in the rear compartment and so I just reached down with my socket wrench to 'feel' for the plug. Much to my surprise (and shortly thereafter fear), an enormous amount of sparks came flying up at me from the wrench!!! If there had been any gasoline fumes, I might be toast right now. The key was not even in the boat, nothing was turned on...but I had not disconnected the battery yet. I will now do that 1st every year...but my last step was to always take the battery out previously, and I've never had this happen. It really looked like I was arc-welding (my 9/16 socket left some of its 'silver' on the brass plug. It reallly cranked it. Anyway, just thought I'd get that out there so any other newbies like me stay safe.

futuredeadguy
11-02-2008, 05:32 PM
Dead,

You're welcome - that's exactly why I did it, hoping to be able to help someone like you.

csmk,

Thanks. I know you are a seasoned vet at this so please review it to make sure I didn't miss anything.

Thanks,

Al

Thanks again, Al. Your directions were spot on accurate. I had no trouble at all winterizing today. I didn't get my oil hot enough, so the oil extraction took awhile, but other than that it went great. I was using a 'portable lake' for cooling - I don't like to run the engine too long when I use it - I never feel like it's getting enough water, although it probably is.

One thing I didn't do was remove the impeller. Is that going to be an issue? The Moomba dealer never removed it on previous winterizations.

Would also like to give kudos to Overtons for shipping my winterization supplies immediately. Great service - had all my stuff in three days via UPS ground.

By the way, I reformatted your directions into a word doc that I'm keeping with my boat documents. Worth it's weight in gold! You rule!

Dead

cab13367
11-02-2008, 08:09 PM
Okay, so I love Cab's new and improved version. This is the 3rd year I've done my own winterization, but NO one (dealer, friends, etc) ever told me about the drain in the port muffler. I took A LOT of water out of that.

I did have an interesting (read: SCARY) experience though, and was hoping some of you more mechanically inclined could help me out. I removed the starboard engine block drain plug with no issues. I then went to the port side, and if you've done this, you know what I mean, the plug is kinda in an awkward place, you are crunched up in the rear compartment and so I just reached down with my socket wrench to 'feel' for the plug. Much to my surprise (and shortly thereafter fear), an enormous amount of sparks came flying up at me from the wrench!!! If there had been any gasoline fumes, I might be toast right now. The key was not even in the boat, nothing was turned on...but I had not disconnected the battery yet. I will now do that 1st every year...but my last step was to always take the battery out previously, and I've never had this happen. It really looked like I was arc-welding (my 9/16 socket left some of its 'silver' on the brass plug. It reallly cranked it. Anyway, just thought I'd get that out there so any other newbies like me stay safe.

helix,

Good point on disconnecting the battery - I had not thought about the possibility of accidentally touching the positive terminal on the starter with your ratchet while the other end is on the block plug.

Al

cab13367
11-02-2008, 08:12 PM
Thanks again, Al. Your directions were spot on accurate. I had no trouble at all winterizing today. I didn't get my oil hot enough, so the oil extraction took awhile, but other than that it went great. I was using a 'portable lake' for cooling - I don't like to run the engine too long when I use it - I never feel like it's getting enough water, although it probably is.

One thing I didn't do was remove the impeller. Is that going to be an issue? The Moomba dealer never removed it on previous winterizations.

Would also like to give kudos to Overtons for shipping my winterization supplies immediately. Great service - had all my stuff in three days via UPS ground.

By the way, I reformatted your directions into a word doc that I'm keeping with my boat documents. Worth it's weight in gold! You rule!

Dead


Dead,

Good to hear that the directions were helpful. I think Moomba/Indmar recommends replacing the impeller every two years. It's cheap insurance against failure while on the water. I replaced mine even though the original still looked new. I now keep the old one on the boat in a ziploc bag as a spare so if the impeller ever lets go while I am on the water, I can replace it right then and there.

Al

cab13367
11-02-2008, 08:13 PM
All,

I edited the directions to include all the good additional info brought up by the forum (disconnecting the battery, winterizing your heater, the difference in the plugs, etc). Thanks for the input.

Al

helix_rider
11-03-2008, 12:22 PM
If anyone has gone to the lengths that Cab has for the impeller (pictures in particular) and could post that would be awesome...that whole a picture is worth a thousand words is so true when we are talking mechanical workings, as I'm a neanderthal and need 'easy diagrams' lol. That's the only thing I've not done myself and will do in the spring when it comes time to get back on the water.

Garn
11-04-2008, 11:52 AM
You guys who edited thie thread into a Word document, would you mind posting it? That would save me having to do it again.

Thanks,

Garn

Jon J
11-04-2008, 04:59 PM
GREAT POST!

Does anybody know if that muffler drain exists on a DD? I have DIY winterized now for the past two years and this is the first time I have heard of this drain. That muffler is way in the back under the rear ballast tanks in a DD and I'm curious if it has a drain plug like the one shown in the V-Drive photos.

MoombaMaster
11-10-2008, 11:29 PM
Remove the plug underneath the muffler?

Sadly I hate to admit I could not figure this one out. How important is this step? What will happen if I dont do this step? I have a Moomba Outback Inboard with no Vdrive? Where is this plug can someone tell me and explain it to a total non mechanical dufus?

Thanks for these steps. I was not going to be able to winterize because I'm flat broke and this saved my moomba. Now if I can just find that plug!!!

cab13367
11-12-2008, 03:42 AM
Remove the plug underneath the muffler?

Sadly I hate to admit I could not figure this one out. How important is this step? What will happen if I dont do this step? I have a Moomba Outback Inboard with no Vdrive? Where is this plug can someone tell me and explain it to a total non mechanical dufus?

Thanks for these steps. I was not going to be able to winterize because I'm flat broke and this saved my moomba. Now if I can just find that plug!!!

Jon J & MoombaMaster,

I don't know if the DD's have the muffler drain or not. I would think so. Just run your hand along the bottom of the muffler and see if you can feel it. It is on the very end on the port side on mine (see pic on page 1 of this post).

Al

98outback
11-17-2008, 01:00 PM
I hope Cab dont mind but I put his instructions and pictures into a Microsoft Word file so that I could print it out. I then took it out to my boat with me and it made the process very simple. If anyone would like this file just let me know and I will email it to you. Thanks again Cab.

jclay5
11-17-2008, 01:38 PM
How important is it to remove the plugs on the V-drive unit, because I cannot get them to budge at all! It looks like they have never been touched. I got the hoses off the unit just didn't get the plugs pulled...

JesseC
11-17-2008, 03:06 PM
How important is it to remove the plugs on the V-drive unit, because I cannot get them to budge at all! It looks like they have never been touched. I got the hoses off the unit just didn't get the plugs pulled...

I would not think this would be a big deal. All that is in the top of the V-Drive is a single channel with a curved tube running through it. I would leave the hoses off and use a compressor or shop vac to get as much out as possible. I could not imagine there being much to crack in there. It is a farely open space inside the top of the unit.

JesseC
11-17-2008, 03:15 PM
Here is an exploded view of the Vdrive. It appears that there is not much in the upper water jacket.

Here is the link to the MUCH larger image.

http://www.pearson424.org/manuals/VDrive/pages/Page17_jpg.htm





http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q21/StarkRaven/vdrive.jpg

cab13367
11-17-2008, 11:52 PM
I hope Cab dont mind but I put his instructions and pictures into a Microsoft Word file so that I could print it out. I then took it out to my boat with me and it made the process very simple. If anyone would like this file just let me know and I will email it to you. Thanks again Cab.

No problem at all, glad the instructions helped.

Al

mustangairchair
11-18-2008, 12:01 AM
do you have a shower or heater if sohaw did you winterize them with out antifreeze?. i drain every hing and used antifreeze. i used the shower ti pump my antifreeze in thanks gord

jclay5
11-18-2008, 11:03 AM
[QUOTE=JesseC;51274]Here is an exploded view of the Vdrive. It appears that there is not much in the upper water jacket.

Here is the link to the MUCH larger image.

http://www.pearson424.org/manuals/VDrive/pages/Page17_jpg.htm



Thanks JesseeC I used a shop vac and sucked what little water was in there out so I should be all good.

Le Bateau
07-05-2009, 06:52 PM
After some searching we also found that link!
there's one thing that we found on our boat that's not in the photos.
the winterization crew left a hose with a clip on it randomly hanging from the back of the engine. does it connect to the quick disconnect hose?
thanks!

jester
07-06-2009, 02:26 PM
On my 08 OBV i have a single hose on the right hand side with a clip and a plug in the end just hanging. I think it is used to drain the oil. Might be the hose your talking about.

dhickey
08-11-2009, 03:03 PM
Cab - great post. Love the pictures (worth a thousand words!).

In Indmar's engine manual, they only mention about putting fogging oil in the throttle body - which should get to the cylinders/pistons. No mention of removing spark plugs and spraying into the cylinders directly. Any thoughts on why to spray directly into the cylinders via the spark plug holes if spraying into the throttle bottle should do the same?

squeeg333
08-26-2009, 06:39 PM
This is awesome information. Thanks so much! I just bought an 08 LSV, and wouldn't ya know it, I've got about 1 month left before I need to winterize. I feel much better now about doing it myself, as I really didn't want to pay to have it done!

Did you change the V-drive oil at the same time as the Engine Oil?

cab13367
09-22-2009, 02:44 AM
After some searching we also found that link!
there's one thing that we found on our boat that's not in the photos.
the winterization crew left a hose with a clip on it randomly hanging from the back of the engine. does it connect to the quick disconnect hose?
thanks!

The hose with the clip on it is the oil drain hose. It hangs from the back of the engine when not in use to keep it off the floor of the bilge area. The quick disconnect hoses are completely different - they have water running thru them. These hoses are the ones that need to be disconnected and drained during winterization.


Cab - great post. Love the pictures (worth a thousand words!).

In Indmar's engine manual, they only mention about putting fogging oil in the throttle body - which should get to the cylinders/pistons. No mention of removing spark plugs and spraying into the cylinders directly. Any thoughts on why to spray directly into the cylinders via the spark plug holes if spraying into the throttle bottle should do the same?

Good question. I was told this by the dealer on my first boat along time ago and have always followed this recommendation. I guess it's just to make sure that the cylinder walls are adequately coated and that the fogging oil sprayed into the throttle body didn't get purged during the combustion process.


This is awesome information. Thanks so much! I just bought an 08 LSV, and wouldn't ya know it, I've got about 1 month left before I need to winterize. I feel much better now about doing it myself, as I really didn't want to pay to have it done!

Did you change the V-drive oil at the same time as the Engine Oil?

You're welcome. No, I changed the v-drive oil separately, during the recommended interval. I will probably change it again when I winterize this fall as it's been a couple years now.

squeeg333
09-27-2009, 06:04 PM
Hey Cab, one more question for you. Do you leave the impeller out for the winter, and then put a new one (if it's at the two year interval) or the old one back in during your "summarization"?

cab13367
09-28-2009, 02:33 AM
Yes, the owner's manual says to take it out, coat it with Vaseline, then store it in a sealed ziploc bag over the winter.

squeeg333
09-28-2009, 06:28 PM
Thats what I though.t!! I just replaced the cover and will wait until next year to install. It took some serious effort to get it out (thanks for the advice about the vice grips), so I am kind of worried about getting it back in. Though the new Impeller came with some lubrication, so hopefully that helps!


Thanks Cab.

newty
09-28-2009, 08:04 PM
Great job Cab! Thanks for that.
BTW I don't winterize mine, and I have a drysuit so if you get the itch call me!

dhickey
09-28-2009, 10:53 PM
CAB - I know you have an 06 LSV. For 08 and newer boats with a dripless shaft, is there anything you need to do for winterization?

cab13367
09-28-2009, 11:09 PM
Thats what I though.t!! I just replaced the cover and will wait until next year to install. It took some serious effort to get it out (thanks for the advice about the vice grips), so I am kind of worried about getting it back in. Though the new Impeller came with some lubrication, so hopefully that helps!

Thanks Cab.

After I remove the water pump hoses, I spray some silicone into the impeller through the hose fittings. Then, when I bump the engine after spraying fogging oil into the cylinders, that helps coat the impeller and inside of the housing with the silicone which makes removal easier.


Great job Cab! Thanks for that.
BTW I don't winterize mine, and I have a drysuit so if you get the itch call me!

Thanks Ryan, I'll keep that in mind. Do you keep your boat in a heated garage?


CAB - I know you have an 06 LSV. For 08 and newer boats with a dripless shaft, is there anything you need to do for winterization?

Good question. You can disconnect the hose but I don't know how you would get the water out of the seal. Suggest you call the dealer then let us all know :)

newty
09-29-2009, 12:03 AM
Its not heated but the water heater and HVAC is in the gararge and its never gotten below 45 degrees.

squeeg333
09-29-2009, 12:51 PM
I was thinking the same thing about the dripless packing cooling water line. I didn't think there would be much that would come out of the blue pex line, but you never know. I might do it just in case, but let us know what you find out, dhickey!

I've also got another question about Spark Plugs. I replaced mine with new while doing winterization, but was reading the Indmar manual and it says to put new ones in when you summerize it. Would it matter one way or the other? Would it be better to leave the old in over the winter, and then throw new ones in? I thought about putting the new ones in after I burnt all the fogging oil out of the engine, but I can't imagine it's that hard on plugs. But, I guess you never know...

Bcoutsfly
09-29-2009, 02:32 PM
I winterized with anti-freeze last season. Seemed to work just fine, had no problems this year. The procedure is really simple. Here's a list of what you need.

1. 5 gallons of biodegradable anti-freeze. I used -50F.

2. A cheap plastic bin that is wide enough to catch the anti-freeze coming from both exhaust outlets.

3. A fat sac pump.

Place the bin underneath the exhaust outlets and dump your anti-freeze into the bin. Disconnect your water intake beneath and to the right of your V-drive unit. Place the fat sac pump into the anti-freeze connecting the other end into the water intake hose that you just disconnected. Turn on the pump and make sure it is pumping anti-freeze into the intake. Now start your engine and let it run for about 5-10 minutes or until operating temps. The anti-freeze will make a mess coming out of the exhaust, just keep checking on it to make sure it's flowing into the plastic bin. I found it easier to disconnect the wakeplate arms so the antifreeze flows down instead of around the plate. After you're at operating temps, you're done. The antifreeze replaced the water. For peace of mind you can loosen up a few drain plugs to make sure there's antifreeze in the motor. To dewinterize just drop the boat in the lake and start.

squeeg333
10-06-2009, 01:14 PM
Did you find out any information on the dripless packing? I meant to disconnect where the blue cooling water line went into the seal before I put the boat away, but remembered last night that I forgot to do it. I won't be able to get up to the storage place until hopefully this weekend, but I was curious if you found anything out about the need to winterize that.
Let me know if you could!

cab13367
10-06-2009, 04:03 PM
Its not heated but the water heater and HVAC is in the gararge and its never gotten below 45 degrees.

I have the exact same storage arrangement but I still winterize it. Don't want to take any chances like the heater going out while we are on vacation and it gets really cold. A perfect storm, I know, but it's still a possibility. Plus I don't ride between about now and spring anyway.


Did you find out any information on the dripless packing? I meant to disconnect where the blue cooling water line went into the seal before I put the boat away, but remembered last night that I forgot to do it. I won't be able to get up to the storage place until hopefully this weekend, but I was curious if you found anything out about the need to winterize that.
Let me know if you could!

I thought you were going to call the dealer and let us all know??

I would think the water would just drain out the seal where the shaft exits the hull. But you're the one that has the dripless seal so you should find out for sure :)

Venom93corba
10-06-2009, 06:23 PM
Hey guys I'm was starting my winterization process today and was disconnecting the exhaust manifold hoses and noticed there was a BLUE hose that was T'ed into it. I've got a 2009 Supra w/ the 325 Hp Assault. Anyone know what this is? I tried to follow it but could see where it ended up.

OutbackRoy
10-06-2009, 06:40 PM
Jon J & MoombaMaster

Did you guys ever find out if the Direct Drives have the Exhaust Manifold plug that needs to be removed? What a great Post.............. Thanks for all your effort ......:D

squeeg333
10-06-2009, 07:01 PM
Nah, Dhickey was going to call the dealership and let us know, I thought.

I've got an 08 LSV, and the blue cooling line runs to the dripless packing. I can't recall off the top of my head if it comes from the manifold hoses or not, but I know that's where it ends. I would imagine that the blue line you're talking about is the same line - dripless packing cooling water. That was the question I had was if it needed to be drained at all. I meant to disconnect mine before I put it away, but forgot.
I think Cab is probably right though. I would think the water in that cooling line, once the pressure of the cooling system is released during winterizing, would just draing out thru the dripless packing gland. I can't say for sure though!

dhickey
10-08-2009, 01:40 PM
I called the dealer. They use the anti-freeze method for winterization (vs just draining) so they believe they have it covered. I asked about if you were just to drain and the response was "I guess you could disconnect the hose and blow some air in there". Not very convincing. I also asked about the name of the manufacturer and they did not know - "We just order the parts through SC". Was hoping then I could contact the manufacturer. Also emailed SC - no reponse.

VA LSV
10-08-2009, 03:21 PM
water def drains out the dripless seal. the line on mine empties every time I raise the boat in the lift.

cab13367
10-10-2009, 02:37 PM
Some of you have asked for just the text of the winterizing instructions so here it is.

Winterizing Instructions for 2006 Moomba Mobius LSV
(other years and models may vary)

A. Put Sta-Bil in fuel, 1 ounce per 2.5 gallons so 16 ounces for a full tank (40 gallons).
B. Run the boat on a body of water for at least 10-15 minutes to get the engine oil nice and hot. Drive it back on the trailer and with the engine still running, remove the spark arrester (held in place by a large hose clamp). Spray 4-6 ounces of fogging oil into the throttle body then shut off engine immediately. Replace flame arrester.
C. Let the boat sit 5 - 10 minutes to let the oil cool a little. Drain/Change the oil and oil filter (I use a Fram PH30 filter and Shell Rotella T 15W40, crankcase capacity is 5.5 quarts including filter). I did this at the boat ramp parking lot as it’s a 30 minute drive back to the house and the oil would cool off too much by then. Best method I found is to use a fluid extractor (Pela 6000 worked great for me) and suck it out of the oil drain hose, not the dipstick tube. This way, you know you are sucking it out of the low point of the oil pan since the oil drain hose is attached to the oil pan where the oil pan drain plug would normally be.
D. Drain all water from the block and hoses as follows: (note that for the purpose of this write up, aft is the end of the engine closest to the transom of the boat and fore is the end closest to the bow).

From port side of engine:
1) Separate the exhaust manifold hoses by separating the hose fitting. The two hoses come together at the fore end of the engine, on the port side. Disconnecting the two hoses drains the two manifolds.
2) Remove the port engine block plug using a 9/16” socket.
3) Remove the plug underneath the muffler, on the port side using a 3/8” socket. Use a container to catch the water so it doesn’t drain onto the carpet.
4) Disconnect the bottom of the "J" hose where it connects to the water recirc pump.


From the starboard side of the engine:
5) Remove the starboard engine block plug using a 9/16” socket.
6) Disconnect and drain the two hoses attached to the water pump which is attached to the main pulley on the aft end of the engine. Use a 5/16” nut driver on the hose clamps.
7) Remove the impeller from the water pump using a 5/16” nut driver to remove the impeller housing cover. Access to impeller is improved if you remove the small, fixed engine access cover towards the back of the boat, on the starboard side. Use needle nose vise grips to carefully remove impeller. Stick one jaw between the impeller blades and the other into the middle of the impeller, all the way in. Carefully pull out impeller. I like using vise grip needle nose pliers because the jaws stay parallel and therefore, grab better. Coat the impeller with Vaseline and put it in an airtight (ziplock) bag. If the impeller is two years old, replace it with a new one. It’s a Johnson Pump impeller, part # 09-812B-1. Be careful not to overtighten the impeller cover screws as they are fairly soft.

From the v-drive:

8) Remove the two (2) plugs on the v-drive unit, one on the front on the port side, the other on the rear on the starboard side. Both plugs are pretty high up on the v-drive housing. A 7/16” closed end wrench fits perfectly on the square head plug. The front is a vent plug and you might not get any water out of it.
9) Remove and drain the water intake hose at the v-drive.
10) Drain the ballast system as follows:
(a) Disconnect and drain the hoses at the solenoids using the quick disconnects on the hoses. Watch for rubber o-rings and make sure they don’t fall out.
(b) Remove water strainer and drain. Clean strainer if dirty. Be careful when putting the strainer it has to properly seat on the top and on the bottom. Don’t leave this to chance – look at the top of the stainer when screwing it back on to make sure it lines up correctly.
(c) Disconnect and drain the bags, then put one capful of bleach in them to prevent mold.

E) Remove each spark plug and spray fogging oil into each cylinder for about 2 – 3 seconds. Spray a little fogging oil on the spark plug hole threads. With all the spark plugs still out, bump the starter for 1 second to evenly coat the cylinder walls with the fogging oil. Reinstall the spark plugs. You should be able to turn them by hand all the way until they seat. Tighten with a ratchet and spark plug socket.

I leave the hoses disconnected and the drain plugs out over the winter. I put a little grease on the threads on the block and the v-drive unit as they will become rusty over the winter and the plugs will be difficult to install in the spring if you don’t.

If you drain the water with the boat in your garage, be aware that enough water is drained out of the block and hoses that the bilge pump will probably kick on.

jester
10-12-2009, 12:28 AM
Al,
Thank you for the text version.

For people with a heater i have included pictures below.

NOTE: This is from a 08 OBV

NOTE: The first picture the bottom of the picture is to the bow. The Second two pictures are the same in that the left side of the picture goes to the bow of the boat.

The heater has two hoses

The first hose is connected to the block right next to the dip stick. Just undo the hose clamp twist and pull. WARNING: If the block is hot then hot water will come out. You can see the hose clamp in the first picture by looking down the dip stick. http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/IMG_7774.jpg

The second hose is in the back of the engine (Closest part of the engine to the swim platform). It is the hose going from the middle bottom of the picture too about center of the picture. It is the same size hose as the first one. It is also a hose clamp so just undo the hose clamp, twist and pull.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/IMG_7775.jpg

The last picture below is the hoses coming from the bow of the boat. They are the two hoses at the bottom of the picture that are zip tied together. The first hose comes up in about 3/4 of the way to the right of the picture.
http://i334.photobucket.com/albums/m429/j3stert/IMG_7777.jpg

You can take your mouth and blow air into one of the hoses until all the water is out.

mcdye
10-12-2009, 10:29 AM
Awesome work.

I was reviewing my notes that I made when I brought my boat. The dealer and I did the water drain since I brought the boat in the winter and we did a sea run. The only additional item that I had in my notes was to drain what he called the "J" hose. You can see it in the second picture up. It is between the thermostat housing and the lower part of the engine water pump(not fresh water pump). We disconnected from the pump end and drained.

Another item, How many of you spray the engine with some sort of rust inhibitor once all done? (wd-40, engine stor,etc..)

DOCDRS
10-12-2009, 11:58 AM
Awesome work.

I was reviewing my notes that I made when I brought my boat. The dealer and I did the water drain since I brought the boat in the winter and we did a sea run. The only additional item that I had in my notes was to drain what he called the "J" hose. You can see it in the second picture up. It is between the thermostat housing and the lower part of the engine water pump(not fresh water pump). We disconnected from the pump end and drained.

Another item, How many of you spray the engine with some sort of rust inhibitor once all done? (wd-40, engine stor,etc..)

good addition , i have always disconnected the j hose, alot of water comes out of here, plus i was amazed how much water comes out the muffler on my v drive

thanks for the great pics and posts

cab13367
10-12-2009, 01:35 PM
Awesome work.

I was reviewing my notes that I made when I brought my boat. The dealer and I did the water drain since I brought the boat in the winter and we did a sea run. The only additional item that I had in my notes was to drain what he called the "J" hose. You can see it in the second picture up. It is between the thermostat housing and the lower part of the engine water pump(not fresh water pump). We disconnected from the pump end and drained.

Another item, How many of you spray the engine with some sort of rust inhibitor once all done? (wd-40, engine stor,etc..)

McDye,

You piqued my curiosity so I went out and pulled the bottom of the J hose this morning (I already winterized my boat using my write up so I did not previously pull this hose). I got no more than to 1/3 cup of water out of it. I think that most of the water in the hose drained out the engine block drain holes and the little bit of water I got out is what was sitting in the bottom of the J so if it was to freeze, it would have plenty of room to expand.

In any case, I agree that this hose should be drained as the goal is to get all the water out. I will revise my procedure accordingly.

Thanks for bringing this to our attention.

cab13367
10-12-2009, 05:24 PM
good addition , i have always disconnected the j hose, alot of water comes out of here, plus i was amazed how much water comes out the muffler on my v drive

thanks for the great pics and posts

How much water comes out of the J hose and the muffler I think depends on what you do first. I removed the block plugs first and got very little water from the muffler drain and the J hose.

cab13367
10-12-2009, 08:55 PM
Write up has been revised to include the "J" hose, both the version with pics on page 1 of this post and the text version only on page 8. I will also make a separate post to make this point so that those that are going of the old write up will be aware.

Thanks again.

cab13367
10-12-2009, 09:13 PM
Another item, How many of you spray the engine with some sort of rust inhibitor once all done? (wd-40, engine stor,etc..)

mcdye,

I noticed that the inside of the hose outlets are very rusty so I would be interested in this. How would you get the rust inhibitor into all of the water passages in the engine? I suppose that filling the system with antifreeze as opposed to draining all the water would help prevent this.

DOCDRS
10-12-2009, 11:47 PM
cab , great write up, pics and awesome to keep updating. As a diy'er access to information is very useful. Brian Raymond at SC has also been a valuable source of information if needed. keep all the good work

DOCDRS
10-13-2009, 12:03 AM
Winterized mine saturday and the nuts on the vdrive were a royal pita. I couldn't loosen them so i put a shop vac on one end of the unit to suck out any ridual water then ran plumbing antifreeze thru it. came back to it later after i was done everything as to not let a little bolt get the better of me. I got the rear one loose figured it was lower than the front so the better of the two and having removed both intake and discharge hoses no antifreeze drained out the bolt hole. Don at Aquamarine didn't think there would be much after disconnecting the hoses....he was right...but i had to find out for myself.

Did some research on the dripless shaft seal systems and it appears as they are self draining and actually when operating one saying upto a gallon per minute. so apparently no real need to do any winterizing here....... and nothing was mentioned to me as far as i know by my dealer......

cab13367
10-13-2009, 12:27 AM
doc,

You're fine. Nothing ever comes out of the front v-drive plug. Dealer told me it was a vent so I should not expect anything to come out of it. Did you use a closed end, 7/16" wrench as shown in the pic? It fits perfect. If you can find a make shift cheater bar such as the right size pipe, you should be able to break it free. But no real need to.

DOCDRS
10-13-2009, 12:53 AM
Cab
actually used an open 3/8 or 5/16 not sure which one that fit perfectly with a cheater to get it loose , will prob just use shop vac to blow out and use antifreeze next year as thats prob even over kill. Always nice to hear what others do

mcdye
10-13-2009, 11:52 AM
mcdye,

I noticed that the inside of the hose outlets are very rusty so I would be interested in this. How would you get the rust inhibitor into all of the water passages in the engine? I suppose that filling the system with antifreeze as opposed to draining all the water would help prevent this.

Sorry I was not clear, I was not refering to inside the engine. But to coat the outside of the engine with something to prevent corrison. It is in my Indmar manual.

For internal I would suspect that antifreeze would be the answer.

dhickey
10-16-2009, 02:00 PM
Cab
actually used an open 3/8 or 5/16 not sure which one that fit perfectly with a cheater to get it loose , will prob just use shop vac to blow out and use antifreeze next year as thats prob even over kill. Always nice to hear what others do


Cab - I also used a 3/8 wrench for these plugs. You sure you have the right size in your document?

cab13367
10-16-2009, 02:34 PM
Cab - I also used a 3/8 wrench for these plugs. You sure you have the right size in your document?

Yes, a 7/16" closed end or boxed end wrench (see below) fits perfectly on the squared headed plug. And it sounds like a 3/8" open wrench fits it too. I prefer the boxed end wrench as there is no chance of slipping and possibly rounding off the corners of the square headed plug especially if the plug is stubborn and requires a lot of force to break free. But either one will work.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sjdiscounttools_2076_190924754

Venom93corba
10-18-2009, 12:11 PM
Im all finished with mine thanks everyone for the great info. When I finished mine 2 weeks ago I noticed that some of the carpet was damp so I left all the hatches open. Should I leave it like that or do you you guys close everything up and put the cover on?

cab13367
10-18-2009, 02:37 PM
I bought a couple of cheap 18" box fans at HD and after every outing, I leave the hatches open and run the fans overnight to dry the carpets.

I don't put the covers on during winter lay up as my garage does not get very dusty. Plus, I am always climbing in and out to look at stuff and work on winter projects.

Glad the instructions were helpful.

DOCDRS
10-18-2009, 07:23 PM
Hey Al, i've heard that petroleum based lubricants are not good for the impellers and that water sol ones are better.....ky is a good brand and it's more sexier lol , i used to use vaseline and have had problems in the spring.

Also recently i've heard dryer sheets will keep the rodents away , not that i've ever had a prob but easy and cheap to do,distibute the around the boat and you will have a sweet fresh boat in the spring

Doug

cab13367
10-18-2009, 08:56 PM
Doug,

The owner's manual specifically says to use Vaseline. What problems did u have in the spring and how do u know it was caused by the Vaseline?

Al

DOCDRS
10-18-2009, 10:38 PM
I know it says vaseline in the manual, but when i put the impeller in that i used the vaseline it went in nice and easy but there was no updraw of water from the lake. I took it out imediately cleaned the inside of the pump and put in my spare old which had not been coated and eveything was fine. I figured somehow the vaseline was preventing a good seal...didn't make sense but i didn't have any problems till I tried the vaseline. Just my experience. i'm am one who if it works for you keep doing it, I am just passing on my experience. When that did happen i did some research into impellers and thats when i found out the petroleum based products should not be left on the impellars for extended lengths of time.
( also recommended by johnson
This is how to fit the new one
Lubricate the shaft and the inside of the pump body and the end cover. Use soap or vaseline (petroleum jelly) to help develop prime and prevent damage from dry-running the pump at initial start-up. Mount the impeller by making a pushing and twisting movement in the rotating direction. Lubricated impellers should not be stored for extended periods of time. Engine should be run after installation of a new impeller to wash out the lubrication.
These recommendations also apply to any service work on the pump and its components that require the use of lubrication inside the pump for assembly and start-up.)

This is when i switched to water based lubrication . only as an installation and removal aid

here is a johnson pump article http://www.johnson-pump.com/JPMarine/products/IB_Pdfs/IB-507_SP-Imp_guide.pdf


Another interesting note is that when i traded to a new v drive this fall the service tech said he doesn't remove the impeller for winterization on v drives, he only removes them when he replaces them ,totally surprised me. I asked how often and i think he said he gets 4 years out of impeller.......i was flabergasted to say the least ......mind you i have impellers that I have used 3 years and look day 1 brand new but i do take them out at winter to relax the arms. I also think having a water strainer is a must, i have yet to ever se anyarms deteriorated torn or marked on any of my impellers. I am going to talk to him again about this just to verify and will keep this updated.

brenpire
10-19-2009, 10:06 PM
I just completed winterizing my Moomba for the first time by myself. THANK YOU CAB!!!! Your instructions are perfect.

Up until now I had it done by a boat mechanic. I have to say I'm still a bit nervous. I hope I got all the water out. Guess I'll find out in the spring.

I did have kind of a weird situation. When I "bumped" the starter I lost all power in the boat. It was like i tripped the main breaker. then the power came back, so I tried it again. This time a 6 inch spark/flame shot out from the positive terminal on the battery. Any idea what that was?

cab13367
10-19-2009, 11:59 PM
I just completed winterizing my Moomba for the first time by myself. THANK YOU CAB!!!! Your instructions are perfect.

Up until now I had it done by a boat mechanic. I have to say I'm still a bit nervous. I hope I got all the water out. Guess I'll find out in the spring.

I did have kind of a weird situation. When I "bumped" the starter I lost all power in the boat. It was like i tripped the main breaker. then the power came back, so I tried it again. This time a 6 inch spark/flame shot out from the positive terminal on the battery. Any idea what that was?

You're welcome, glad the instructions empowered you to do it yourself. And don't worry, if you followed the instructions, then you got as much water out as the mechanic would have as he would have done the same thing.

As far as the sparking issue you experienced, I have no idea what that could have been. What boat do you have?

cab13367
10-20-2009, 12:18 AM
[SIZE=2]I know it says vaseline in the manual, but when i put the impeller in that i used the vaseline it went in nice and easy but there was no updraw of water from the lake. I took it out imediately cleaned the inside of the pump and put in my spare old which had not been coated and eveything was fine. I figured somehow the vaseline was preventing a good seal...didn't make sense but i didn't have any problems till I tried the vaseline. Just my experience. i'm am one who if it works for you keep doing it, I am just passing on my experience. When that did happen i did some research into impellers and thats when i found out the petroleum based products should not be left on the impellars for extended lengths of time.

So it seems that the issue you had with Vaseline was not related to using it for storing but rather, the water pump would not draw water thru the intake and you believe this was because the impeller was coated with Vaseline.

Nevertheless, you got me curious so I called Johnson Pump today and spoke to one of their engineers. He said that putting a thin coat of Vaseline on the impeller then putting it in a ziploc bag for the winter will not hurt the impeller. This is also what it says in the Indmar manual that came with my boat. Based on those two things, I will personally continue to use Vaseline on the impeller.

I think everyone should do their own reasearch and do what they're comfortable with.

Thanks,

Al

viking
10-20-2009, 01:56 AM
Another interesting note is that when i traded to a new v drive this fall the service tech said he doesn't remove the impeller for winterization on v drives, he only removes them when he replaces them ,totally surprised me. I asked how often and i think he said he gets 4 years out of impeller.......i was flabergasted to say the least ......mind you i have impellers that I have used 3 years and look day 1 brand new but i do take them out at winter to relax the arms. I also think having a water strainer is a must, i have yet to ever se anyarms deteriorated torn or marked on any of my impellers. I am going to talk to him again about this just to verify and will keep this updated.


I specifically asked my dealership twice as I was getting it serviced/winterized if they take out the impellers and they said the same thing. I thought it was because they are lazy (and maybe it is), but they say that it doesn't hurt them to stay in all winter as long as you don't run it without any water pickup. Said that if you start it and run it without water for any length of time that pretty much eats them up. And that makes sense! I had read the same thing about using vasaline but think I might just leave it in this winter and see what happens. I have a spare anyway!

AaronWhitt82
10-20-2009, 02:06 AM
Question about the impeller: Does it matter which way it goes in?
When I took mine out today I looked closer at it and on one side it says Johnson and the # and the other side it says nothing.
The splines on one side (don't remember which side it was) come all the way out to the end of it and the other side there is maybe a half inch gap before the splines start.
I'd imagine it would only fit one way, but figured I'd check.
Mine was in with "Johnson" side facing towards the back.

Thanks

cab13367
10-20-2009, 10:39 AM
Question about the impeller: Does it matter which way it goes in?
When I took mine out today I looked closer at it and on one side it says Johnson and the # and the other side it says nothing.
The splines on one side (don't remember which side it was) come all the way out to the end of it and the other side there is maybe a half inch gap before the splines start.
I'd imagine it would only fit one way, but figured I'd check.
Mine was in with "Johnson" side facing towards the back.

Thanks

Aaron,

I made the same mistake u did - pulled the impeller the first time and didn't pay attention to which end was which. I don't recall there being that much difference - more like 1/8" maybe as far as where the spline starts.

I decided that Johnson would put their label and the part # so that it would be visible when u pulled the impeller cover so that's how I put it back in earlier this yr and it worked fine. I think it goes in both ways and I don't think it matters which way u put it in.

If anyone knows any different, please let us know.

Thx,

Al

squeeg333
10-20-2009, 11:31 PM
Cab, and all, have any of you ever taken the top cover off of the V-drive in the spring to clean it out? The Walters V-drive manual says to pop the top (I think it says 6 hex head screws) and vaccuum out any particulates that have accumulated. It would just be the small area where the cooling water passes thru to cool the fluid in the pressure lines. It appears, from the schematic, that this pass-thru area for the cooling water is pretty small, and I can't imagine too much getting caught in there.

On another note, once I pulled my impeller this year, I found most of one paddle almost completely gone. I read several posts on worrying about pieces possibly passing thru the engine. Thinking of this, I pulled the line that goes into the in-line transmission cooler, and wouldn't you know it, there was the piece of the paddle, and some additional junk. Luckily, it let me know that for anything to pass thru that cooler, it would have to be fairly small. It also made me realize that putting a stainer on the cooling water intake might not be a bad idea, since with that piece of paddle I found a whole glob of accumulated seaweed.

I bought the boat used this year (it's an '08) and I could tell the impeller hadn't been pulled before. Thankfully I did! Bummer that it had a paddle gone already, but, I think whether you leave it out over the winter, or leave it in, pulling the impeller each year is a good idea. That, along with the inlet to the transmission cooler just to make sure nothing is in there, and the cooling flow is strong.

cab13367
10-21-2009, 02:18 AM
My Walters V drive manual does not say to pop the top and neither did the service guy at the dealership who showed me how to winterize.

Yeah, for the 5 minutes that it takes, I pull the impeller every winter. I'd rather do it at my convenience rather than on the water with a boat load of people.

VA LSV
10-21-2009, 12:17 PM
Popped the top off my v-drive last year. Very open path for water flow and very little buildup so I don't think this needs to be an annual check. Gasket was extremely thin paper and not reusable so used RTV. Also replaced the original bolts with anodized because they were so rusty. Plan to pull the bottom off this winter and make a new gasket to see if this stops my oil leak.

mcdye
10-21-2009, 12:27 PM
If one doesnt have a fresh water strainer I would recommend checking/cleaning the Transmisson cooler at least annually. There is a screen in there and can get blocked.

It is a easy mod to added a fresh water strainer. It was one of my first mods and glad I did it. Do search for fresh water stainer to see the before/after. The parts were less then $70. Here is a link to my project thread http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/showthread.php?t=7597

squeeg333
10-21-2009, 03:46 PM
I agree with that. The piece of mind that comes from knowing you've got a filter cleaning that water is one less thing to worry about! I plan to throw one of those in this spring!

SC_LSV
12-01-2009, 03:40 PM
Going to winterize my LSV this week. I have 06 LSV with EFI 5.7L 340 EXT/CAT. Asside from the no flame arrestor and fogging the cyclinders thru each spark plug, is there any other deviations from this procedure that anyone has noticed?

mmandley
12-02-2009, 12:59 PM
If you have a heater system you need to blow the water out of it. Al's boat doesn't have a heater yet. Mine does, there's a line at the water pump area and the other part is by the Starboard exhaust manifold, you need to remove these and blow out as much water as possible.

Other then that Al's write up is perfect.

DOCDRS
12-02-2009, 07:52 PM
on my 340 cat the heater hoses are on the port side , its an 09 tho, how do you like the tsunami? have you ever tried a ride? thinkin of getting one for the newbies they are suppose to be faster? anyone know if they are?

SC_LSV
12-03-2009, 10:51 PM
Not sure if you question was directed toward me or not, but tsunami surfer is pretty money. it is faster and lil harder to ride than the larger Broadcast any others. Little harder to learn the sweet spot than the larger boards. Good for trying spins though. I learned on a Tsunami so can ride about anything now.

Not trying to Pirate Cab's thread so if u got more questions on the Surfers start new thread.

Cab awesome post will be using this tomorrow when I winterize, tried to wait it out in hope of one last ride, but might snow saturday night so its time.

SC_LSV
12-07-2009, 12:01 PM
Got the winterization done. Thanks for the instructions Cab. Couldn't get the V-drive plugs out, but got the hoses loose so not too worried about it.

Could tell its been a few week since I had been on the boat, bc I hit the towers speakers with my head about 4 times. Seeing Stars. Most knuckles came out bloody too.

Anybody with 340 ETX-CAT on LSV, how the he11 do you get to spark plug 1. I fogged all except that one. Couldn't get the socket to it bc of the Cats.

mmandley
12-07-2009, 07:55 PM
Got the winterization done. Thanks for the instructions Cab. Couldn't get the V-drive plugs out, but got the hoses loose so not too worried about it.

Could tell its been a few week since I had been on the boat, bc I hit the towers speakers with my head about 4 times. Seeing Stars. Most knuckles came out bloody too.

Anybody with 340 ETX-CAT on LSV, how the he11 do you get to spark plug 1. I fogged all except that one. Couldn't get the socket to it bc of the Cats.

Pretty sure it says NOT to FOG Cat engines. The FOG spray causes the CATs to over heat and may cause damage. Id assume you can use something like carb cleaner in the cylinders to wash that FOG spray into the oil then change the oil. I would consult a dealer about what to do since you FOGed it. Sorry to be the bringer of the news bro.

SC_LSV
12-14-2009, 10:47 AM
mmandley,

Indmar manual says for Cat engines that cylinders can be protected by removing spark plugs and applying fogging oil directly to cylinders. Everything I have read about this engine says to remove plugs and spray about 3 seconds into each cylinder then bump starter.

SC_LSV

squeeg333
12-17-2009, 04:28 PM
I've got a little question for you all. Just some food for though, or ideas of what others have done. When winterizing this year, I had the plugs out, and sprayed the fogging oil in the cylinders as is recommended, then turned the engine over a few times to lube the entired cylinder. Well, the pistons pushed some of the fogging oil out, enough that it got on the lowered engine comparment doors, and a little on the rear compartment carpet. This wasn't a huge issue, as it cleaned up easily with some simple green - but I am just curious when winterizing by yourself, how you guys kept this from happening -or did you?

DOCDRS
12-17-2009, 06:03 PM
throw an old towel over the side, or put the plugs back in before ya bump it, 2 or 3 secs of fog oil is not enough to cause hydraulic lock.

cab13367
12-17-2009, 09:50 PM
I've got a little question for you all. Just some food for though, or ideas of what others have done. When winterizing this year, I had the plugs out, and sprayed the fogging oil in the cylinders as is recommended, then turned the engine over a few times to lube the entired cylinder. Well, the pistons pushed some of the fogging oil out, enough that it got on the lowered engine comparment doors, and a little on the rear compartment carpet. This wasn't a huge issue, as it cleaned up easily with some simple green - but I am just curious when winterizing by yourself, how you guys kept this from happening -or did you?

Squeeg,

This has never happened to me. Maybe u sprayed a little too much oil in there and/or spun the engine too long? I only spray about a second or two and bump the engine for about 1 sec.

Personally, I wouldn't put the plugs in then bump the engine as you'll have that thick oil on the plugs all winter and run the risk of fouling them. I guess if you had some old plugs you could screw them in part of the way then bump it.

squeeg333
12-18-2009, 03:28 PM
Thanks guys. This wasn't really too much of an issue, just something I needed to clean a bit. Just curious if you all had experienced this. This was my first time winterizing, so now I know for next time.

graybmg
12-28-2009, 11:23 PM
Drained all the water from my Outback, or so I hope. I was reviewing the manual and I apparently missed the part about the transmission cooler. I didn't drain anything from there. My boat is locked up in the storage building at my marina and I can't get there for another week. Is this something that could cause a problem if it freezes in the storage building?

DOCDRS
12-28-2009, 11:50 PM
Drained all the water from my Outback, or so I hope. I was reviewing the manual and I apparently missed the part about the transmission cooler. I didn't drain anything from there. My boat is locked up in the storage building at my marina and I can't get there for another week. Is this something that could cause a problem if it freezes in the storage building?

not sure when they moved the tranny cooler to after the raw water pump, if its there and you took out the impeller you should be ok as it's self draining. If its before the raw water pump then it depends if you have a water strainer. If you do and its before the cooler there could be a problem, if there is no water strainer you my be ok as it may be a gradual slope down to the water intake and most of it should have drained out

DOCDRS
12-28-2009, 11:58 PM
Drained all the water from my Outback, or so I hope. I was reviewing the manual and I apparently missed the part about the transmission cooler. I didn't drain anything from there. My boat is locked up in the storage building at my marina and I can't get there for another week. Is this something that could cause a problem if it freezes in the storage building?

checked the 02 manual and it looks like its before the raw water pump, if you have a strainer then you will have a problem if you get freezing temps for a period of time......all depends on your storage facility......if you don't have a strainer between the cooler and the water pick up your prob ok as long as there is no rise in the hose..........good luck

graybmg
12-29-2009, 09:54 AM
Thanks DOCDRS,

My water lines to the the transmission are BEFORE the water pumper and there is NO strainer. However, I took some pictures of the engine when I last saw the boat and it looks like the lower hose on the transmission is indeed lower than the outlet. I guess there is a screw plug on the lower side of the transmission to drain the water. I hate that I missed that. I live in Alabama so I can only hope that the upper 20's we've had this week aren't enough to lower the temp in the building. Lessons learned.

Thanks for your help and I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I have a thermometer on the engine block that records high and low temp. I'll know for sure in about 10 days.

graybmg
12-29-2009, 11:21 AM
Correction, I now believe that the transmission cooler is the black cylinder between the water intake and the water pump. On this cylinder are two brass elbow connectors with hoses to the transmission. I mistook these hoses as carrying water. I now believe they are carrying oil to be cooled. I hope I am right and if this is the case, I don't have a freezing issue because there is no water in the hoses on either side of this cylinder.

DOCDRS
12-29-2009, 12:05 PM
sounds like your fine Gray, i used to just pull the intake hose off the low side(back) of the cooler and off the impeller pump. no need to undo the little nut on the cooler

162cat
09-07-2010, 10:05 AM
New to the site and new to moomba

just picked up my 2008 moomba LSV with the 340 hp is there any difference in winterizing between the 325 and the 340? I am from Alberta canada and my boaty will sit in a unheated shed for the winter ,so I have to be 100% sure I do not miss anything.
great post man

mnpracing
09-08-2010, 12:17 AM
I was reviewing this thread to make sure I am ready to winterize in a few weeks and noticed that my engine drain plugs look like the pic below. There are a few threads showing on each bolt; the bolt heads are not all the way down to the block. I loosened the port side bolt and re-tightened and it is pretty snug in this position. Is this normal?

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab49/mnpracing/IMG_3429.jpg

cab13367
09-08-2010, 02:27 AM
I was reviewing this thread to make sure I am ready to winterize in a few weeks and noticed that my engine drain plugs look like the pic below. There are a few threads showing on each bolt; the bolt heads are not all the way down to the block. I loosened the port side bolt and re-tightened and it is pretty snug in this position. Is this normal?

Yes, I think the plugs are tapered thread so they only go in so far. As long as water is not leaking past them when the engine is running, then they are properly seated.

chrismay
09-09-2010, 12:50 PM
This may be a silly question, but is there a difference in procedures for the first day out after winter (draining vs. antifreeze)?
I have always had antifreeze in my boat over winter and when I go out for the first day all I need to do is drop it in the water and start it up. If I drain my engine, will I need to do something special prior to launching it in spring?
Thanks a lot.

mnpracing
09-09-2010, 12:56 PM
If you have anti-freeze in your engine, please drain this and flush it and dispose of it properly. Do not flush the antifreeze by just dropping the boat in the lake.

lewisb13
09-09-2010, 01:43 PM
If you have anti-freeze in your engine, please drain this and flush it and dispose of it properly. Do not flush the antifreeze by just dropping the boat in the lake.

X2!!!!! :(

cab13367
09-09-2010, 04:36 PM
This may be a silly question, but is there a difference in procedures for the first day out after winter (draining vs. antifreeze)?
I have always had antifreeze in my boat over winter and when I go out for the first day all I need to do is drop it in the water and start it up. If I drain my engine, will I need to do something special prior to launching it in spring?
Thanks a lot.

Chris,

We assume you are using environmentally friendly anti-freeze, if there is such a thing. To answer your question, if you drain the water, you don't need to do anything different. Just reattach all the hoses and reinstall the plugs, back her in the water, and start her up.

Al

zabooda
09-10-2010, 12:34 PM
If you have a shower, that needs to be blown out as well. I can see why the shops charge so much! I don't do nearly as much and in a hour I am done and it works. All you have to remember is to get at least 10% of the water out of all compartments.

DOCDRS
09-12-2010, 11:54 AM
New to the site and new to moomba

just picked up my 2008 moomba LSV with the 340 hp is there any difference in winterizing between the 325 and the 340? I am from Alberta canada and my boaty will sit in a unheated shed for the winter ,so I have to be 100% sure I do not miss anything.
great post man

yes, do not fog the engine thru the throttle body if you have the cat exhaust. you have to do it thru the sparkplug holes and sparingly at that, a few seconds of spray then bump engine over (cover holes with rags) and reinstall plugs.....
some say you don't even have to do this (fog a cat engine)...it is a debate topic :)

deerfield
09-12-2010, 12:03 PM
a few seconds of spray then bump engine over (cover holes with rags) and reinstall plugs.....
some say you don't even have to do this...it is a debate topic :)

Don't have to do which, spray or bump the engine?

boatdrinks
10-18-2014, 12:37 PM
I bought a 2010 LSV this spring and this was my first v/drive winterization (always had an outboard). I want to thank CAB for this awesome how to. The only thing I did different is hook up my portable ballast pump to the raw water intake and add RV antifreeze. Thanks!

Lori Moomba
10-18-2014, 03:36 PM
Great post with instructions and fine pictures. I have a 2005 Outback, direct drive. This is my first year with it, and thus, winterizing it. I did use antifreeze and was told to keep antifreeze in engine. Anybody have input on that? Also, I only found two plugs (along with the hoses to drain, of course). Did I miss some plugs with the direct drive? Peace of mind is always a good thing.

fu-man
10-19-2014, 10:50 PM
Lori, two (brass I think) drain plugs on either side of the bottom of the engine and the hose on the back that connects the two sides. That's it on the DD. I drain those and then run antifreeze. Whether or not to use antifreeze is debated. Indmar manual says to merely drain the water. I run antifreeze and leave it in case any water didn't drain, to protect the inside from corrosion, and to keep the impeller from "drying out" and becomming brittle. Some put in the antifreeze and then drain that. Others pull out the impeller for storage but I've never been able to do that without damaging it.