View Full Version : Check engine light HELP
05-30-2009, 12:02 PM
Hey all, finally got my boat, dumped in water yesterday, started fine sounds good, good oil pressure and temps, engine light is on and power is cutting off. Did the search and saw about cycling three times to reset light. Am going to try unhooking battery an cycling, but while in the water yesterday we started ran, shut off, read manuals, started ,ran, shut off, then started and loaded. Wouldn't this be 3 cycles or is it important to do this cosistantely right in a row without much time in between? Any more info/help would be appreciated as the dealer is 300 miles away and I just got my boat after a 45 day delay from Florida to Montana......ooh and it's going to be 90 today..I wanna board!!!!!...Thanks-3BAGR
05-30-2009, 12:35 PM
A check engine light could be almost anything. I would check all the connections you can to especially include your battery connection. Give the dealer a call and explain the situation, many will help diagnose on the phone.
06-01-2009, 12:31 PM
Tried the 3 cycles, but am sure this means 3 separate trips to the lake as it takes way to long to cool the boat all the way while sitting in the water. Also tried resetting ecm by unhooking baterry leads, did this 2-3 times with no luck, doing this would also cancel my cycles wouldn't it?...........I'm prob at ground zero now but still not wanting to trailer to dealer(3hours one way) Also the last time I unhooked the batteries and re-hooked I lost all acc power, no stereo bilge, lights, etc.... Checked all fuses, main breaker and looked for loose wiring. Noticed the battery relay was on meaning battery #1 was fully charged to close the relay, but before that the boat wouldn't start on battery 1. Had to start on 1/2 then switch to 1. Do you guys all run on battery1 like they suggest?. Am going to pull batteris and get them load tested first. And to top it off my tower speakers dont work at all except for popping and crackling, getting popping with trim too, read that was a wakeplate relay?............Thanks-3BAGR
06-01-2009, 04:27 PM
????Anyone with any ideas on theses problems??
06-01-2009, 06:47 PM
I run duel batteries and some of the problems your having sound like an issue ive ran into twice now.
Popping and crappy sound - when i had this i thought it was my factory amp and sub acting up, it was a dead #2 battery that ran that amp.
Last week stereo cut out and sounded all crappy = Battery 1 was dead and this is the factory configuration, battery 1 runs the Boat. Battery 2 is sliced into he factory system with a Perko switch and generally upgrades are added to this battery.
I try to always run my boat in 1/2 so the alternator charges them both all the time. When i stop for swimming or sitting for lunch and or generally hanging out in the boat with no engine. I will switch it to 2 so the primary battery has only the Deck load on it and what was then the factory amp. This way Battery 2 goes dead = crapy sub sound, then i can still start the boat up.
Since i installed new amps last week i rewired them all to Battery 2 and only the boat starter, pumps, interior lighting, and deck are on Batt 1 and i have had no issues with this.
As for the check engine light im not use for that yet. =(
06-01-2009, 08:46 PM
I had the check engine light come on a couple of week ago. Found the PCV valve had come out. Put the PCV valve back in place and the check engine light did go off after several full cycles. I really did not count how many. I believe the engine must go from cold to normal operating temp. for a full cycle.
06-01-2009, 09:58 PM
I had the same issue this year. I figured it was from me crawling around under the dash this year changing this and that. I pulled the teather off and put it back on. Light stayed on. Memorial day weekend started out with the light still on.. What can I say, but by sunday it was out.
Unless you do actually have a problem?
06-01-2009, 11:20 PM
Ya, pulled batteries and am charging now. #2 showed no charge and #1 had 1/4 charge. Hopefully thats what it is. The boat wouldn't start on 1, sterted on 1&2 then switched to one, relay closed showing the #1 should be fully charged but that to me doesn't mean the batt stayed charged or is even good. The amps always lit up, but maybe they would even underpowered and not enough to drive the towers....?
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