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View Full Version : Winterization ?'s Antifreeze vs Drain!!!!



mk_deuce
10-02-2009, 01:58 PM
I have read the excellent winterization process on the this forum describing in detail how to winterize by draining all the water. However I have read that it is better to replace the water by "sucking" antifreeze through the sytem. this supposedly keeps the water passages from corroding like they may if the system is left drained and empty over the winter. I have always done the antifreeze type of winterization on my boats in the past with no problems. Let me know your thoughts or experiences with either type of winterization.

joe98684
10-02-2009, 02:32 PM
Personally.... I do both! I run 5 gallons of RV antifreeze (envoronmentally friendly type) though my system. When done with that I drain everything. Thought process is that there is anything left over in the system (heads.... heater core...etc.) that it at a minimum will be a mix of water/antifreeze. Small price to pay every season to be assured that you dont have freeze problems.
Someone I work with had their block freeze this winter on a Tige.. think his bill was somewhere around $5000. Granted.... his kid took the boat out AFTER he had it winterized, but I would rather stay away from those kind of repair bills.

mk_deuce
10-02-2009, 03:02 PM
when you run antifreeze to the flusher, what water intake under the boat sucks the water/antifreeze into the motor? The driver or passenger side water intake? I'm assuming you just drain the water out of the ballast pump system & don't run antifreeze through it, correct?

deerfield
10-02-2009, 05:07 PM
mk - I have an '07 direct drive Outback and am winterizing this weekend. In addition to the engine, I will winterize the heater core, ballast lines, and ballast pumps. I plan to use a closed loop system to ensure the engine is at operating temparature and antifreeze circulates through completely. With that complete, I will open the drains and let the excess run out. In addition, will change the oil and filter, and pull the impeller (to be replaced with new impeller in spring). My goal is to take and post pictures of start to finish, including the closed loop winterization. - Deerfield

sandm
10-02-2009, 05:21 PM
I'm planning on doing the winterization myself this year as I just spent my winterization money on a new board and bindings :)

I have an insulated south facing garage that stays 58-60 deg all winter. I was planning on just draining the water as listed in the procedures on here.
can you leave the block empty of water all winter without the antifreeze since it's in a "warmer" climate all winter??

not worried about the ballast lines as I'm going to do the tazz upgrade this winter and I think my heater is electric. haven't seen any lines going from the engine to the front where it's located..

Fman
10-02-2009, 05:59 PM
A lot depends on where you live and where you keep your boat. In Northern California, it rarely freezes at my house. My boat is stored in the garage. My winterization consists of draining the block/exhaust manifold, adding Sta-bil to the fuel (which I have been using this month when using the boat), and making sure there is no standing water in the hull of the boat. This is exactly what the dealer does for there $300 winterization charge. In spring, I will change the impeller, fuel filter, and all the oils to start the season.

If I lived where it was freezing I would definitely add anti-freeze to my block, and fog the motor.

sandm
10-02-2009, 06:25 PM
it does freeze here, but the boat is indoors in an insulated garage. guess I'll try just the draining of the block. still going to fog the engine as it seems to be a standard, unlike the anitfreeze/empty debate. every boat up here fogs.

yearround
10-02-2009, 07:54 PM
how long will the time be between use? i have not fogged cuz the boat usually only sits unused for max of 45-60 days. should i fog for this duration?

i store in my garage, it is insulated next to the house, i have not finished the outside wall yet.

i keep a small indoor rated heater in the boat to cycle on/off if/when the air in the boat/garage gets down to 40 or lower. it has come on a few times when we get a cold streak of single days and minus nights.

Mikey
10-02-2009, 10:05 PM
I do the combo of antifreeze and draining with the boat regretably sitting outside tarped through all our nasty weather over the winter,going on three yrs and no problems. I change the oil,fog remove impeller and change fuel filter as,well and add stabil. So far so good.

cab13367
10-06-2009, 04:13 PM
not worried about the ballast lines as I'm going to do the tazz upgrade this winter and I think my heater is electric. haven't seen any lines going from the engine to the front where it's located..

The water lines run under the floor of the boat then out thru the top of the driver's side kick panel (where SC installs the sub). I doubt your heater is electric unless it was an aftermarket install.


In spring, I will change the impeller, fuel filter, and all the oils to start the season.


I was always told to change the fluids before putting it away so you have clean fluids sitting in your engine/tranny over the winter.


i keep a small indoor rated heater in the boat to cycle on/off if/when the air in the boat/garage gets down to 40 or lower. it has come on a few times when we get a cold streak of single days and minus nights.

Man, that's chancy. What if your heater fails in the middle of a cold spell? At a minimum, I would put two heaters in there to have redundancy. Personally, I would drain all the water out to be safe.

cab13367
10-06-2009, 04:19 PM
it does freeze here, but the boat is indoors in an insulated garage. guess I'll try just the draining of the block. still going to fog the engine as it seems to be a standard, unlike the anitfreeze/empty debate. every boat up here fogs.

It only takes 10 minutes to drain the water out (two engine block plugs, one muffler plug, disconnect the exhaust manifold drain hoses, and two plugs on the v-drive). I'd personally spend the 10 minutes rather than risk a $5,000 repair bill in the spring.

sandm
10-06-2009, 05:36 PM
yea, going to drain vs antifreeze. I have read the faq and know about the vdrive, engine and muffler drain plugs. just not going to bother running antifreeze thru. the little bit of water that may be left won't be able to expand as my garage doesn't freeze.

terryleonard2000
03-07-2010, 05:15 PM
we just took our 2000 Moomba out today to enjoy the warm weather. I noiced that one of my peacocks(block drain plug) is leaking some. Can that be tightened too much and strip or break? Also what is involved in changing it out for a new one?

DOCDRS
03-07-2010, 05:27 PM
is it leaking from the block or the actual valve? you can try some plumbers tape on the threads. or there just may be a little rust in the valve thats preventing it from closing all the way open n flush then close

terryleonard2000
03-07-2010, 05:42 PM
thanks for the info. It is leaking from the plug, I will take it all the way outg and check it over real good, again thanks

zabooda
03-08-2010, 02:03 AM
Replace it with a two piece drain plug and you won't need to worry about it again. Do they still use petcocks on the newer boats? I replaced those on every boat I had especially my last boat where it was difficult to get to them but a wrench would work.

gus 08 mobius lsv
03-09-2010, 07:28 PM
you guys with newer boats still under warranty who do the winterization yourself... is that ok in sc eyes or will they fight you try to say you aren't certified to do it. i thought about doing it myself to say the cash but didn't wanna cause an issue down the road if something would happen to the engine

DOCDRS
03-09-2010, 07:49 PM
You have to be comfortable doing the winterization in that you are leaving no water in the system that could freeze. Freeze damage is not covered by warranty. Yes I,ve always done my own . even on my brand new boat, as its wintered on my boat house lift. the info on here is outstanding

gus 08 mobius lsv
03-10-2010, 10:40 AM
You have to be comfortable doing the winterization in that you are leaving no water in the system that could freeze. Freeze damage is not covered by warranty. Yes I,ve always done my own . even on my brand new boat, as its wintered on my boat house lift. the info on here is outstanding

so if i pay a dealer to winterize it and they f it up and something freezes its not covered? i'm at the mercy of my dealer to make it right is that what your sayin doc?

DOCDRS
03-10-2010, 10:06 PM
An inboard dealer I would hope would not mess it up. These motors are very easily winterized. You would have to go after who ever winterizes and prove that they messed up. All the accessories have to be winterized as well, heater ballast, shower ,old speedo pickups,etc. You have to be comfortable that you or who ever is doing it is very knowledgeable!

deerfield
03-10-2010, 10:33 PM
All the accessories have to be winterized as well...old speedo pickups

Okay, Doc, you got me on this one. Never heard of winterizing speedo pickups. How would I do that on a 2007 Outback w/ factory Moomba Cruise? - Deerfield

Mikey
03-10-2010, 11:17 PM
You wouldn't on an 07. its the older airtube type speedos that you were advised to blow the remaining water out of to winterize.

DOCDRS
03-10-2010, 11:37 PM
Mikey knows...:D.....thats why i put old in the post:D ya don't have to worry on paddle wheel or ultrasonic pick ups

deerfield
03-10-2010, 11:59 PM
Mikey knows...:D.....thats why i put old in the post:D ya don't have to worry on paddle wheel or ultrasonic pick ups

That is good to hear. Thanks!