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cab13367
11-26-2009, 04:07 AM
So I started my amp upgrade project this week. I am replacing an old school Sony 4 channel amp currently running 8 speakers and a Boss 2 channel amp running the sub with a JL Audio 6 channel and a Kicker 5 channel. I took out the battery and the subwoofer amp, built an amp board, then mounted the amps to it. Pics below.

This was my first time making an amp board/working with carpet so I am pretty happy with how this turned out. I used 1/2" King Starboard that I had left over from my walk thru transom project. I got the exact carpet that's in my boat from the local Skier's Choice dealer. I used some industrial strength double stick tape because my electric stapler could not make a dent in the King Starboard.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/IMG_5652.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/IMG_5654.jpg

Amps installed - JL Audio M6600 6 channel amp on top which will power the 6 cabin speakers, Kicker ZX700.5 5 channel amp on the bottom which will power the four tower speakers and the sub. After I took this pic, I flipped both amps 180 degrees so that they are both upside down. This is to make the adjustment knobs and buttons accessible.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/IMG_5658.jpg

cab13367
11-26-2009, 04:11 AM
Here are pics of the amp board in place. I have not secured it yet. I will put a couple of screws into the rubrail backing strip on top and probably use a couple of L brackets on the bottom. Or I may screw into the reinforced "ledge" on the bottom.

You can see in these pics why I had to mount them upside down. I would not be able to get to the adjustment knobs and buttons otherwise. I chose this location as it is unused space so it will not eat into my usable storage space. Will post more pics as I get further along.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/IMG_5663.jpg
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/IMG_5662.jpg

mmandley
11-26-2009, 10:18 AM
Very nice AL, very clean man. Now im going to have to visit you again to get a better look at your work lol. I will wait till its all done though. LOL.

Looks real nice man.

Razzman
11-26-2009, 10:56 AM
Looks good Al! Nice and clean setup, can't wait to see the finished product.

cab13367
11-26-2009, 05:34 PM
Thx guys. I am also adding a 2nd batt, a batt switch and ACR, replacing all the speaker wires, and trying a different set of tower speakers (thanks mmandley!). Plus do something with the footbox. So much to do, I don't know what to do next. Good thing I have lots of time, and I enjoy doing this knd of stuff. Very therapeutic:)

jmvotto
11-28-2009, 11:18 AM
great looking amps, wish i could hear the system when its done. have to do a youtube test video.
;)

cab13367
12-26-2009, 08:15 PM
I am finally about done with my amp upgrade and Blue Sea add-a-battery install. I am still waiting on some shorter RCA cables and y-splitter that are on order but other than that, everything is pretty much done. Just need to set the gains aned crossover points and do some tuning once the RCA cables are on.

Below are some pics of the (almost) finished product. I moved the starting battery to starboard as far as it would go and that left just enough room for the Group 27 house battery. I wanted both batteries as far forward as possible in order to minimize loss of storage space and it worked out just fine. There was just enough room between the Kicker amp and the starting battery for the house battery to fit.

Note that I ran three of the cables to the battery switch thru a hole behind the switch for a clean look and direct cable routing.

All in all, this was a very fun project but more time consuming than I anticipated (isn't that always the case?) although from the finished product, it doesn't look like a lot of work. But I replaced both amps, added a second battery, added a battery switch and automactic charging relay along with four thermal circuit breakers and replaced all the factory speaker wiring so there was quite a bit to do. At this point, there is nothing left of the original stereo in the boat. I will report back once I get the RCA cables in and have had a chance to hear the system.

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/IMG_5793.jpg

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/IMG_5780.jpg

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/IMG_5781.jpg

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/IMG_5786.jpg

Razzman
12-26-2009, 08:36 PM
Nicely done Al! Very clean install, you'll like having the batts out of the way laving the compartment open in the front.

badasshybrid
12-26-2009, 08:54 PM
Nice job, its very clean.

moombadaze
12-27-2009, 12:25 PM
Very nice work Al.

cab13367
12-27-2009, 01:26 PM
nice Al!

So guys, tell me more about this blue sea batt switch

what's all needed and what does it all cost...if I decide to give the perko a shove.

Am I seeing circuit breakers on each cable?

Ed,

When you say Blue Sea batt switch, I assume you are referring to the Add-A-Battery package which is comprised of the switch and the automatic charging relay (ACR). With this system in place, your batteries are isolated when the engine is off and combined when the engine is running. This way, when you are just sitting and listening to your stereo, it is only running of your 2nd battery so you won't accidentally run down your starting battery and leave you stranded. Then once the engine is running, the ACR will combine the batteries so that they are both receiving the charging current from the alternator. You set the switch to ON and forget it as this will all happen automatically. There is also a combine position on the switch in case your starting battery has a bad cell or somehow gets discharged. Putting the switch on "combine" connects both batteries so that you can start and run the boat off the 2nd battery.

With just a battery switch (Pergo or Blue Sea) you have to manage this process manually or run the risk of running your batteries dead leaving you stranded (which will happen eventually).

The add-a-battery system costs about $120 shipped. You'll also need (2) 100A fuses (or circuit breakers) and some 4 gauge power cable and ring terminals.

Yes, those are resettable circuit breakers on the power cables - I opted to go with them instead of fuses so I don't ever have to worry about having spare fuses on board (thanks to Razz for this tip).

Below is a very good FAQ on the Blue Sea ACR.

http://bluesea.com/viewresource/1366

And below is a product sheet on the Add-A-Battery system. I think you will find both documents very helpful.

http://bluesea.com/files/resources/sales_sheets/ADD_A_BATTERY_(5,000%20KB).pdf

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Al

cab13367
12-27-2009, 01:50 PM
Thanks Al!

After reading about this for months now, I wish I had insisted this switch be put in when I had the install done, instead of cheaping out with the perko.

Oh well, we often learn expensive lessons don't we.

I haven't read thru the info yet, but I do have one question...

why a circuit breaker before AND after the switch (input/output)?

Ed,

The instructions called for a 100A fuse for each cable so that's what I did. I'm not an electrical engineer but I believe the circuit breakers protect the ACR from current spikes coming from either battery. Each cable coming from the ACR goes to the pos terminal of each battery. By closing or opening this circuit, the ACR combines or isolates the battery.

As far as your situation, all you are really out is the cost of the Perko switch. Since you already have a second battery and battery cables to and from the Perko switch, your install will be a lot easier and less expensive than mine. I bought the switch and the ACR separately on Ebay and got great deals on both so I paid a lot less than $120.

Al

EarmarkMarine
12-27-2009, 04:04 PM
Ed,

Actually, you're not out a dime. There are more comprehensive schemes when adding a VSR or ACR which will put a dual-battery Perko switch to very good use.

Your single Perko can be wired in conjunction with a solenoid to provide multiple modes:
1.) 'Normal', the voltage sensing solenoid does its intended job automatically.
2.) 'Emergency bypass', circumvents the solenoid in case of failure.
3.) 'Fixed isolation', maintains isolated banks when using a dual-bank AC shore charger.

The same VSR/ACR benefits that serve to a.) protect your alternator from an inordinate load, b.) keep your starting battery in reserve, and c.) control excessive voltage dumping from starting battery to stereo battery while underway... Will, under certain conditions, keep your stereo battery from getting fully charged by your alternator. So, when using a VSR/ACR, a quality dual-bank multi-stage charger (not a 'tender') is highly recommended.

Supplementing the VSR/ACR with a multi-function switch facilitates all of the above considerations in a way that a single on/off pre-packaged switch cannot.

The fuses or breakers are applicable when the batteries are located far apart but have less importance when all components are in close proximity. You still need your helm buss and stereo amplifier breakers in any case.

Shoot me an email and I'll walk you through a couple of scenarios.

David
Earmark Marine

cab13367
12-27-2009, 04:41 PM
The same VSR/ACR benefits that serve to a.) protect your alternator from an inordinate load, b.) keep your starting battery in reserve, and c.) control excessive voltage dumping from starting battery to stereo battery while underway... Will, under certain conditions, keep your stereo battery from getting fully charged by your alternator. So, when using a VSR/ACR, a quality dual-bank multi-stage charger (not a 'tender') is highly recommended.

David,

Thanks for your comments. I understand that if I sit on the water and listen to the stereo cranked for a couple hours then start the boat up and immediately head to the boat ramp 2 minutes away, that the stereo battery will not get fully charged. In these cases, I plan to charge the stereo battery once I get home with a Schumacher Speedcharge set at the maximum 6A charge setting. This is an all purpose charger that I already have, that I have used for my boat, car, and motorcycle in the past. Will this be sufficient for the purpose of recharging the Group 27 stereo battery, or do I need to buy one with a higher amp charge rate and if so, what amp charge rate would be ideal? Is the Schumacher line of chargers good enough quality or do you recommend going with a different brand?

Here's a link to the exact charger that I have:

http://store.schumachermart.com/sc-600a.html

Thanks,

Al

DOCDRS
12-27-2009, 05:44 PM
what you do want to get is a digital voltmeter so you can read your battery voltage to help determining its discharge status and condition. Watch your electrolyte levels and I would suggest a smart charger maintainer to keep the batteries fully charged. 2 amps may be ok as it will be split between 2 batteries, your maintenance voltage charge should be between 13.2 and 13.5 volts. Another thing you can do is add a desulfator.....there is a wealth of info on this topic.

jmvotto
12-27-2009, 07:33 PM
Ed, you can buy the blue sea ACR or the BEP marine VSR and add it to the perko to utilize the switch with the auto charging


BEP marine VSR
http://www.keenzo.com/showproduct.asp?ID=3139870

Blue sea ACR
http://www.boatersland.com/blu7610.html

DOCDRS
12-27-2009, 07:48 PM
JMV, you rival Al in finding the best prices for things.........Al are you going to let him low ball you?:)

heres another Bep...kinda partial as that what i have
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=15306&familyName=BEP+Marine+Voltage+Sensitive+Relay+Modu le

sandm
12-27-2009, 09:33 PM
very nice install.. good work....

cab13367
12-27-2009, 11:59 PM
Ed, you can buy the blue sea ACR or the BEP marine VSR and add it to the perko to utilize the switch with the auto charging

Actually, this won't work. The Perko switch I believe has an "Off", "1", "2", and "Both" position. So all your loads are wired to the switch and depending on where you have the switch set, everything is either running off battery 1, battery 2, or both batteries. The Blue Sea switch that works with the ACR has an "Off", "On", and "Combine" position. It is a dual circuit switch in that it allows each battery to be both on but isolated (when in the ON position). It has 4 posts on the back of the switch vs 3 on the Perko. So the pos lead from the stereo battery runs thru one side of the switch and the pos lead from the starting battery runs thru the other side. So you have two separate batteries, one wired to the amps and the other to the starter and the distribution block under the dash (for the blower, the ballast pumps, etc). This is why you won't run down the starting battery when you sit and listen to the stereo - the amps will always run off the 2nd battery. With the Perko, you have to remember to switch to battery 2 when you sit and listen to your stereo so you don't drain battery 1.

The ACR is just an automatic relay that opens and closes depending on the absence or presence of charging voltage. When it senses charging current being delivered to the starting battery (when the engine is running) it closes the circuit so that the charging current is delivered to both batteries. When the charging voltage stops (when you shut off the engine) the circuit opens and the batteries are isolated again.

I verified this with a tech at Blue Sea because I already had a Blue Sea switch that was similar to the Perko but was told that it wouldn't allow automatic operation for the reasons above.

Hope that made sense. If not, please see the link to the Add-A-Battery FAQ I posted earlier in this thread.


JMV, you rival Al in finding the best prices for things.........Al are you going to let him low ball you?:)


Joe's link has the ACR for $80 (plus shipping I assume). I paid $40 for my ACR including shipping and $28 for the switch including shipping, both from Ebay. Both items were brand new in the unopened package. Both were one off auctions that I was lucky enough to find when I was shopping for these items.

How's that? :)

cab13367
12-28-2009, 12:11 AM
Below are the links to installation instructions of the Perko equivalent Blue Sea 4 position switch and the Blue Sea dual circuit switch. It includes a wiring diagram for each switch as well as an explanation of how they operate that I am sure is easier to understand than what I wrote above :)

4 position switch: http://bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/9002e_web_version.pdf

Dual Circuit Plus Switch: http://bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/5511e_web_version.pdf

jmvotto
12-28-2009, 09:58 AM
Al, i thought the perko was similar to my bep switch, 1,2 combined and off

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=12691&familyName=BEP+Marine+701-S+Mini+Battery+Selector+Switch

which is combined with the vsr in a small compact package for auto isolation.

Ed, looks like you have to get either system. blue seas or bep.

Al, you always find the deals, i searched ebay fro weeks before i pulled the trigger online.

DOCDRS
12-28-2009, 01:55 PM
Joe's link has the ACR for $80 (plus shipping I assume). I paid $40 for my ACR including shipping and $28 for the switch including shipping, both from Ebay. Both items were brand new in the unopened package. Both were one off auctions that I was lucky enough to find when I was shopping for these items.

How's that? :)

THats pretty darn gooooooooooooooooooooood best i could find was around 73 incl shipping but just the ACR...........your the best Al....:)

Razzman
12-28-2009, 02:21 PM
Ed your right about the instructions and my advice to anyone that goes with the Blue Sea setup is forget the text and look at the pics in the instructions, seriously. If you look at them a minute it all becomes clear as a bell.

DOCDRS
12-28-2009, 02:27 PM
Ed, look at my set up. The switch just determines from which battery juice(current for those technically minded) flows to the motor starter and back from the alternator battery 1,2, 1+2.... thus when the motor is running juice flows back to the battery (or both if 1+2) charging it. simply put i believe. You hook your stereo up to the 2 battery directly thus it will never drain your 1 battery. The VSR monitors line voltage so it will always charge your 1 battery first.When the voltage reaches a determined value the VSR will close and the 2 battery will begin to be charged. this is with the switch at the 1 position. If you have it at the 2 position then the 2 battery will be charged first then the 1 battery. If at the 1+2 then the VSR is overridden and both charged at same time but both are connected in parallel and your stereo will drain both(not Good)

so leave at 1 and when ya get back from the lake hook up a chrger/maintainer to your 2 battery and both will be charged in reverse....thats what the dual sense is for. The VSR should keep both batteries charged, but if your stereo is not a green power consumer you may still have to charge you 2 battery.

my .02 just to confuse the issue more

mmandley
12-28-2009, 02:43 PM
Ed, look at my set up. The switch just determines from which battery juice(current for those technically minded) flows to the motor starter and back from the alternator battery 1,2, 1+2.... thus when the motor is running juice flows back to the battery (or both if 1+2) charging it. simply put i believe. You hook your stereo up to the 2 battery directly thus it will never drain your 1 battery. The VSR monitors line voltage so it will always charge your 1 battery first.When the voltage reaches a fully charged state the VSR will close and the 2 battery will begin to be charged. this is with the switch at the 1 position. If you have it at the 2 position then the 2 battery will be charged first then the 1 battery. If at the 1+2 then the VSR is overridden and both charged at same time but both are connected in parallel and your stereo will drain both(not Good)

so leave at 1 and when ya get back from the lake hook up a chrger/maintainer to your 2 battery and both will be charged in reverse....thats what the dual sense is for.

my .02 just to confuse the issue more

I got the switch system and what i learned first hand about it is this. Mine is the selectable style like Ed has i believe and what your describing but slightly different in the findings for me.

Switch on 1 charges Only Battery 1 no matter if its charged or not. Only looks at battery 1

Switch on 2 charges Only Battery 2 no matter if its charged or not. Only looks at battery 2

Switch on Battery 1+2 < both > charges both batteries as a unit, both batteries drain as a unit at all times and stays as a 12V source.

I did this to both batteries last summer as an experiment.

Switch on 1. Wakeboarding and surfed all day. Stereo went dead Battery 2 was at 10V battery 1 was at 13. So all day i ran the boat and battery 1 stayed charged and the second battery went completely dead.

Switch on 2 Ran the boat all day with the stereo on all day. Stereo was perfect, at the end of the day my Battery one never died on me but it was at 11.3 volts and i had to charge it at home.

Switch on both all day boat starts stereo plays everything charged at the end of the day. You lose the security of a back up starting battery because it drains them both all the time.

So the biggest and only real difference i see in the two options is the one Al has, Razz has and many other is the fact they never have to switch it at all. The ACR system is a set it and leave it system. Drains the stereo battery when not running the engine and always allows the boat to restart. Its a much better system then what I or You have Ed. I will be upgrading this as AL has.

Razzman
12-28-2009, 04:27 PM
So the biggest and only real difference i see in the two options is the one Al has, Razz has and many other is the fact they never have to switch it at all. The ACR system is a set it and leave it system. Drains the stereo battery when not running the engine and always allows the boat to restart. Its a much better system then what I or You have Ed. I will be upgrading this as AL has.

Mike, well put and the very reason i dumped the Perko and the only reason for it imo. No mess, no fuss and always have ready batts. Any other explanation is way to much and overblown, again imo. Been running this setup for two seasons without one issue. On & off, can't get any easier.

Razzman
12-28-2009, 04:28 PM
here's what is confusing to me....you guys do this?

Seems like you need to in order to not damage the ACR when starting the boat.

http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/picture.php?albumid=223&pictureid=1973

Ed, nope don't use it and don't need to if you don't want to, it's an optional connection.

cab13367
12-28-2009, 04:55 PM
here's what is confusing to me....you guys do this?

Seems like you need to in order to not damage the ACR when starting the boat.

http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/picture.php?albumid=223&pictureid=1973

Ed,

Yes, I ran this wire. It's easy - just run small gauge wire with an inline 10A fuse from the ACR, thru/around the ski locker and connect it to the appropriate ignition switch wire.

Al

cab13367
12-28-2009, 05:03 PM
Al, i thought the perko was similar to my bep switch, 1,2 combined and off

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=12691&familyName=BEP+Marine+701-S+Mini+Battery+Selector+Switch

which is combined with the vsr in a small compact package for auto isolation.

Ed, looks like you have to get either system. blue seas or bep.

Al, you always find the deals, i searched ebay fro weeks before i pulled the trigger online.

Joe,

I'm not familiar with the operation os the BEP switch/VSR and the Perko may very well work with it but I know it won't work with the Blue Sea ACR.

On scoring the deal, I just got lucky - right deal at the right time.

cab13367
12-28-2009, 05:39 PM
Thanks Al.

I took another look at your photos (and they get nicer each time I look at them) and it appears you also wired in the remote LED?

Where's that located?

Thx for the compliment Ed.

No, I did not wire the remote LED. The other wire u r seeing is the ground wire. I know I should have used black but didn't have any.

BTW, if u are interested in the circuit breakers, I got them at Sonicelectronix.com but u can also find them on eBay.

DOCDRS
12-28-2009, 06:16 PM
http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=4081&stc=1&d=1262036845

this is the BEP vsr and selector switch, as you can see the lower red cable goes to the starting 1 battery and the top red cable goes to stereo 2 battery. Each are connected to the VSR. The right red cable goes to the engine. There is a small sensing wire that goes to a negative pole for dual sensing of the voltage sensitive relay . All house stereo connections are made directly to the 2 battery.
This is very similar to the blue sea. With this BEP set up you can if you want to adjust which battery starts your engine 1,2, or both, which battery you want to have the priority charge 1,2, or both.
But as with the blue sea I just set it to 1 motor battery and let it do all the work

jmvotto
12-28-2009, 08:04 PM
Ed, look at the BEP with the switch, very simple to set up, thats why i chose it over the blue seas,

cab13367
12-28-2009, 08:37 PM
I must say, after looking at docdrs' pic and description, the bep system looks like a much easier install. It looks like the vsr accesses the batteries thru a direct connection with the switch whereas on the blue sea, separate cable runs to each battery is required. Had I known that, I probably would have gone with the bep. I guess I really didn't research the bep much since I ran across such a great deal on the blue sea stuff. The only thing I can think of that u can't do with the bep is turn power off to everything since the house and stereo loads are connected directly to battery 2. You can
do this on the blue sea since connections are made to the switch, not directly to the batts. This is a nice feature in case u have a short somewhere that causes a slow drain on ur battery. With an off switch, u can disconnect all loads to both batteries when not in use to prevent a slow drain running ur battery dead. Dont know how important this feature really is though.

DOCDRS
12-28-2009, 10:47 PM
I think both the BEP and The Blue Sea vsr's are good ,either will automatically charge a dual battery system if your alternator capacity is large enough. You won't go wrong with either . Some of the Audio Systems you guys are running may even require a 3rd battery or additional accessory chargers. Hear is an example

1 charger per battery Travis. Keep the battery switch off while charging though.
I used Stinger 6A/hour charger's on my batteries, but that charger is designed for the Stinger dry-cell batteries only. All chargers are hard-wired to the batteries. The 110V side cords go under the panels and plug into a 3-way 12G receptacle that's screwed down in the ballast locker. I have a 50' 12G cord that's rolled up and hangs on a hook. When I get back to our camper, my shop, or the dock, all I have to do is throw the cord out and plug it in. The batteries and charger have all been relocated to under the rear bench seat behind the cooler/melter. My alternator can't even think about charging any of these batteries considering the size and voltage draw of the stereo, so I plug these in after every use of the boat. The SP800 runs the boat and accessories, the 2 SP1500's power the stereo only.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d19/jonyb1/Supra/DSC_7208.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d19/jonyb1/Supra/DSC_7209.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d19/jonyb1/Supra/DSC_7210.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d19/jonyb1/Supra/DSC_7211.jpg[/quote]

philwsailz
12-30-2009, 05:20 PM
given that I have no way to charge a battery while the boat is not in use and refusing to take out the batteries to charge them, I opt out to learn to properly use what I aready have...the lowly Perko.

"all" for running around, #2 for floating around listening to tunes without the engine running and #1 to start the boat.

I've interviewed several mates to handle the switch ditues and have found a chimp named "david dukey" who seems to have an uncanny knack for fondling rotary dials.

He loves my wife.

Just be careful to not "break" connection between 1 and 2 prior to making connection with either. Similarly, do not accidentally switch to or past OFF with the motor running. You do not want to blow your voltage regulator.

Phil
Kicker

philwsailz
12-30-2009, 05:45 PM
yes, thank you. I have been edumacated on all of this by stereo dudes and my dealer.

I had a detailed discussion yesterday with one of the pro stereo guys on this board and we came to the conclusion that since I do not have the ability to put a charger on the boat while it is being stored between runs, I might as well stick to what I, excuse the pun, "currently" have.

Therefore david dukey will handle my battery responsibilities.

If I do blow something up, it's gonna be cause I went from a stereo and battery bank that worked perfectly fine to one with Kicker speakers on the tower.

I will blame you Phil and no one but you.

Hah hah hah.....

Awesome! :D

Happy New Year!

DOCDRS
12-30-2009, 06:54 PM
I really don't see why ya can't add the vsr (Bep or Blue Sea) your system Ed. You don't even need a switch with one of these, the switch just gives you options. you just run wire from your 1 battery hook up to the vsr , and a wire from your 2 battery hook up to the other vsr connection, its just an automatic charging relay when you have 2 batteries. So when David D gets upset you can always tell him he can be replaced for about $60 :)

DOCDRS
12-30-2009, 08:16 PM
I like how you can always give us a laugh.......the draw from the vsr is insignificant 15 ma ,
quite unlike that of the lady standing on the corner in the red pumps

Razzman
12-30-2009, 09:00 PM
well...what I sorta understand is...when the boat sits with no batter charger active, the vsr itself can suck the life out of the batteries.

Hence the reason i use the Blue Sea switch. I don't like leaving batteries connected when the boat sits for any period of time, even overnight. In case anyones wondering why, a boat fire is not a pretty site.

Just out of curiosity Ed how long is between runs? Where do you keep it during those periods?

cab13367
01-03-2010, 07:44 PM
My RCA cables came in so I was able to finish the install and test out the stereo. With the towers and the sub off, I set the gains on the JL Audio M6600 6 channel amp running the 6 Polk Audio db651 cabin speakers with the crossover frequency set at about 120 Hz on the advice of David at Earmark Marine. WOW, do they sound fantastic! The amp is rated 55Wx6 @ 4 ohms @12.5V. It's extremely loud but very clean and crisp. At 14.4V (i.e., engine running), the amp delivers 75W per channel so it's more volume than I will ever need.

Next I added the Kicker ZX700.5 but just the sub channel. At 210Wx1 @ 4 ohms, I must say, I am a little disappointed at the output. My previous sub amp put out 400Wx1 @ 4 ohms so I guess I am used to a little more thump from the sub. I may have to get a 2 ohm sub in order to get the 420Wx1 out of the amp. I am sure I would have plenty of thump then. I currently have the gain set almost all the way up (my head unit's pre-amp output is 4V and the range on the low level input tops out at 5V so I think it's about right), bass boost at +12db and the remote knob all the way up and it sounds decent but it's pretty much maxed out. One question I have is that I have the ability to control the sub level from the head unit also and it's currently at 0. When I increase this, I get noticeably increased output from the sub even when the remote bass control knob is already turned all the way up. So what is the head unit doing when I turn up the subwoofer level that causes output from the sub to increase when it seems that everything is already cranked up on the amp?

I've not had a chance to set the gains on the Kicker KMT6's on the tower yet as I will need to get the boat out of the garage to do that with any degree of accuracy. Currently, I have it wired to just two channels from the 700.5 (@ 3 ohms, it should get about 80W per pod) so we'll see if that's going to be enough.

Al

mmandley
01-04-2010, 02:35 AM
I'm not sure exactly how the deck sub output works I have mine turned off on my deck and I just use the amp controls

jmvotto
01-04-2010, 09:37 AM
Al, need to get that youtube video..

I knew you would not be disappointed with the JL amp. it sounds great with the polk interiors. Try the bridged mode on the jl channel 5 & 6 and see if that gives your sub enough pop.

cab13367
01-04-2010, 11:53 PM
Al, need to get that youtube video..

I knew you would not be disappointed with the JL amp. it sounds great with the polk interiors. Try the bridged mode on the jl channel 5 & 6 and see if that gives your sub enough pop.

Joe,

Bridging two JL channels will yield 200w and the kicker is delivering 210w so nothing to gain there. Besides, I am using all 6 channels on the 6 interior speakers.

Al

dereklschmidt
03-04-2010, 03:12 PM
Hopefully someone will still see this. I am about to do the Add-a-battery in 2 weeks. Where do you run all of the grounds to? Do you have a picture by chance?

Also, just to clarify, one side of the switch only gets the starter wire and the other side gets everything else that requires power, is that correct? Thanks.

DOCDRS
03-04-2010, 08:47 PM
Not necessarily

you can just run the leads to your batteries, any vsr,acr,combiner is for the batteries not your engine or accessories...its to maintain and regulate battery charging

cab13367
06-14-2010, 09:11 PM
I guess I never posted any pics of the completed project so here they are. Everything is working great.

Still lots of usable storage space, even on top of the batteries. That's where we put our lunch cooler.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/IMG_6511.jpg
The white JL M6600 is a 6 channel amp and drives the 6 cabin speakers. The black Kicker ZX700.5 is a 5 channel amp and drives the four tower speakers and the sub. All the full range speakers are being driven at 4 ohms for the best possible sound as well as being easy on the amps and battery. The sub is being driven at 2 ohms to get the most out of the 700.5's 5th channel.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/IMG_6507.jpg

I used Absolute resettable circuit breakers instead of fuses for ease of operation.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/IMG_6512.jpg

This is the back of the switch.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg276/cab13367/Boat%20Pics/IMG_5786.jpg

cab13367
06-14-2010, 09:13 PM
I just noticed that the new ones have a built in digital volt meter. I might have to get two of those and swap out the ones to the batteries. Only $20 each.

Link: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8392_Absolute+DICB100.html

http://images.sonicelectronix.com/images/442528/big/dicb100.jpg