I've got this same rattling issue. It can get pretty rediculous when waves are coming toward the back of the boat also (when we're sitting still). I've heard some people have the holes welded up, and re-drilled. Some people drill the existing holes larger and use different sized pins. As well as the suggested shim stock. I haven't decided what to go with yet to fix the issue, but hopefully will try something this summer.
speaking from experience, the drilling of the holes with larger pin is not going to help. if you study the platform, it's slop at the top that's allowing it to move back/forward. I drilled out and it didn't help at all.
ok, here's what I did. remove the swim platform at the brackets. undo all 12 or so screws from the brackets and pull them off. get some kind of gauge of how loose your bracket is. I took a metal slide, wedged it in, and found out that it was the perfect thickness to secure the shims in place. went to the local Metal Supermarket and bought some stainless, think it was .94gauge or something like that. had them cut me pieces around 4" long and 1.5 inches high or so. if you catch a shop on a slow day and shoot the breeze with them, cutting will be free :) total costs for me were around $5. take the pieces home. bend 1/2" of one side back at about a 45deg angle. wedge the piece in, then use a hammer and a blunt object(used a socket extension) to bend the other side back so that it does not slide out. do other side, reinstall platform and good to go. I did this last spring and had good results, but have not had to take platform off since then. it will be a challenge to remove, but it fits just fine in my garage with it attached..
this is not the ideal fix, but seems to work for the time being until, as the brackets attached to the boat wear out, someone posts or designs a permanent solution..
(sorry about blurry pics. horrid light in the garage and not about to disturb the sleeping beast :) )
INtresting Sandm, i am having AWS repair my swim deck because its complete cracks along the seems where the gel coat meats the bottom and it allows water inside my deck. From the pics it loosk like your swim deck has the same cracks and such.
it does, but does not affect the performance of it that I know of. I have thought about glassin the bottom to get it smoother and see if the elimination of the lip affects the surfwake, but it's too dam cold to work in the garage right now. maybe spring.
Originally Posted by DOCDRS
As a few others have done, I also used the plastic toilet wedges and they work great. Pound them in and snap them off, you are good to go. I never remove my platform and it has been rock solid for the past couple seasons. If you remove your platform often it might be a little bit more of a problem.
Yea i have seen some people glass it in and they said it doesnt effect the performance, if i was to glass it in id add lights to it first.
Originally Posted by sandm
AWS said its under warranty so im going to have them fix it. The other problem with min is the cracks are making a L and running from the front to the back and you can put your hand in it and feel all the foam inside the deck.
To anyone how as cracks around the swim platform brackets GET IT FIXED or you may loose your swim platform.
There is a known issue with SC that the swim platform brackets are not properly secured to the hull (this was supposably fixed in 09 or 10). The brackets are suppose to create a "sandwich" when connected to the hull. Meaning swim platform bracket, fiberglass, aluminum backing plate. The problem is that the swim platform bracket is not always connected to the aluminum backing plate.
When my cracks were first noticed they looked like gelcoat cracks. AWS talked to SC about the cracks and what they were supposably told and I was told by them is that SC would cover the repair under the lifetime hull warranty if the cracks are actually in the fiberglass and not just gelcoat related. But the only way for AWS to know if the cracks were in the fiberglass was to start the repair work. Problem there was if it was just gelcoat repair I was stuck with the bill (I didn't want to fix gelcoat in an area that no one usually sees). So we elected to watch the cracks and see if they changed at all and go from there. Mine changed via a Tige 50/50 my boat, which is how we learned that between the 2 brackets I had 1 out of the 8 screws hitting the aluminum backing plate. AWS was amazed my swim platform had stayed attached to the boat for as long as it did let alone after the accident.
I remember having the same rock in the my swim platform that you guys describe prior to the accident, but I do not remember it being there after the accident (disclaimer I have only been out once after the accident and that was a couple months ago). I am wondering if the rock in the swim platform is being caused by it not being connected properly to the hull, or if it is the brackets not being leveled correctly.
Mike - Your boat is in good hands at AWS, Cary does great work. (Granted his clean up afterwards is not always the best, but the new service manager might have changed that). Since they are typically slow this time of year they should get you turned around fairly quickly. But I would get your boat in there soon just in case, because you never know how long it is going to take to get the gelcoat and any other parts from SC after they order it.
will watch out for cracks, as that would be a very bad issue to have your platform and brackets fall off in the lake, as I can imagine that with that would come lots of water pouring into the hull :( I know that area very well, replacing several exhaust flappers over the last year(another questionable design using 3.5" outlets and only having 3" and 4" flappers) and working on the swim platform, and have not noticed any on my boat as of late..
I will say, however, that the rattle that I know I have is due to the block attached to the transom of the boat and the "L" shaped bracket that slides down into that block that the platform is screwed to. the block has some grooves that are wider from front to back than the bracket going down into it. by using the shims described, it wedges the bracket into the block on the transom, eliminating the platform movement.
how the block is attached and whether or not the brackets are level do not have any bearing on the issue that I know I have(and would suspect others have as well). it is simply a very cheaply made mounting system, and by cheap, the design is there, just not executed very well.
If the wedges don't do the job I'd recommend swapping the brackets over to the OJ Folding ones, they are a much sturdier construction (not cast) and allow you to simply fold the platform instead of lift it off and store it somewhere else. FWIW they are available for Moomba and Supra.
those are the brackets that should have come on the boats from the start. I think the issue with retrofitting them, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, to access the bolts on the existing brackets, you have to cut out the floor where the ballast bags go?
I don't remember seeing any other way to access them.