Another Swivel Seat
I went with the thread that Newty posted, I know someone else did it too but I could never get their pics to download on my computer, for some reason I can't always get the attachments included in some threads. I got the Bass Pro seat swivel for 9.99 ( I'll see how it holds up), I got a 5/16" aluminum plate 9"x13" at Metal by the foot and 1" angle cut 9" long, costing $30. I used a cheap poly cutting board that I got at Walmart for $3, I cut that to match swivel and took Newty's advice and cut another piece to double up the spacing. I think the cutting board was 5/16" thick. I got all bolts and nuts at Lowe's, The screws that go into boat seat attaching 2 pieces of cutting board and swivel are 1/4-20x 1 1/2" and are perfect once you tighten 'em down with driver- if you screw in by hand they appear too long. Step by step goes like this: 1- remove seat cushion and remove seat.
2-cut the cuting board(2) and attach them and swivel to seat, I used the 4 center holes in seat, with 4 sets it gives you a few options to play with.
3- drill holes in plate and attach it to slide rail ( I centered mine)- leave out all 4 poly spacers that were originally there and place 1" angle just forward of the back bolts
4- place the seat and swivel assembly on plate and play with positioning until you get it where you like, then mark and drill holes in the plate
5- attach the plate to the seat assembly
6- attach that entire assembly to the slide rail
7- get a cold brew, swivel around, kick feet up on rear seat and take a drink or 2 or.....
5/16" aluminum plate 9"x13"
1" angle aluminum 9" long
seat swivel- most will work just check bolt pattern on seat bottom (mine is 5x5)
4- 1/4-20x1 1/2" machine screw and washers to attach swivel and cutting board to seat
4- 1/4x1" carriage bolt and washers and lock nuts to attach swivel to plate
2- carriage bolts 5/16x 1" to replace the original 2 in front slide holes
I think that's got it,Pics should help.
Attachment 15550Attachment 15551Attachment 15552Attachment 15553Attachment 15554
Attachment 15555Attachment 15556Attachment 15557Only problem we had with the non-locking swivel was when surfing the seat wants to turn to the side that is weighted down. It really wasn't a problem for me, but my wife has shorter legs and had to work to brace herself. A comfortable driver makes a better driver, so I decided to add a removable peg to hold seat in forward position if so desired. I used some spare 3/4 aluminum angle bar I had. I mounted that to the holes in the seat on right side that were originally used to mount to the slide rail. I made it long enough to stick out beyond seat about 3", but short enough to be covered up by the bolster when it's down. I then lined up the hole I drilled into the angle bar with the aluminum plate and drilled that hole. Then insert peg and you have a fixed seat again.Attachment 0
Brilliant! This is next on my list after I move my check valves to fix my non-priming issue on my two surf bag pumps. Gotta have me some swivel action.
Nice work, and great pics! For us that haven't done this yet could you just get a locking swivel or would that create other problems? Would another piece of cutting board work in place of the aluminum plate?
Kane can you describe what you have to do to the check valves to fix the issue?
Originally Posted by kaneboats
EXCELLENT! I have the swivel and the cutting boards I just need to get the bolts and the metal. This is exactly what I needed to see!
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According to Moombadaze's theory I have to move my check valves way closer to the bag and farther from the pumps.
Originally Posted by mnpracing
I used a locking swivel and it works great. It locks in multiple positions all the way around. I think I got it from overtons or some place similar.
Got pics? Curious where the handle to release the lock is at and how it looks.
Originally Posted by moombahighrider
I don't think a cutting board in place of the metal plate would be rigid enough to support the weight of the seat and driver. It isn't mounted flat onto the slide rail, so the plate has to be strong enough not to flex (2nd pic). The reason that you don't mount it flat is to be able to slide seat back and forth. I used aluminum mainly because it's a bit easier to work with than steel, although a steel plate could be a bit thinner, I believe Newty said his was 3/16" thick. Hope that helps.
Originally Posted by brain_rinse