Mojo Surf Ballast Setup
Got my LSV setup today. Took around 4 hours in 100 degree heat. Props to Salyers for the boiling water trick. I put the connectors in the freezer while the water came to a boil. I would then put the end of the line in the water for about 10 seconds, and then the cold connectors would slip right in.
I'll be on the lake first thing in the morning to try it out. Thanks for the great thread.
LOL. I was taking down my "solar" pool heater yesterday. Couldn't get the hose to the heater to slide on the return after I cut the heater out. Nuked a cup of water and soaked it in there for a minute. Slid right home, clamped her down. Great technique.
Thanks guys, I'd love to take the credit but I learned that trick from my Dad when he installed most of the plumbing in his new house. Saved me lots of sweat and four letter words over the past year.
Shoot, I hope Dad doesn't have ballast hose for plumbing all over the house. Then again, bet that house throws a mean surf wave if you can get it moving to 10 mph.
The ACME 1235 is the prop I'm looking for. The guy from wakeprop suggest me the ACME 2079 for my mojo with that ballast config.
I'm afraid about top speed with that 14.5" x 12" prop
As somebody this prop (seems to be a new one) what do you think guys?
The boat is not well with the stock prop to push that weight! And fuel is burning so fast!
I will order the prop next week. As somebody already changed the prop with the boar in the water or is it a bad idea?
Thanks and enjoy w-e
I'm not positive but that 2079 might be the new prop for the Mojo, I know when i talked to Wake Props they mentioned a bigger prop for the Mojo due to clearance. I would just stick with the 1235 as its a good solid proven prop, plus if for some reason you ever want to sell it, it fits a lot of boats.
Originally Posted by gurt
As for changing the prop in the water, prolly wont work to well.
When i took my prop off, the drive shaft spins very easily. Plus on the Mojo the Prop is centered with the Ruder to allow the boat to track in a straight line easier. Very hard to get much more then a wrench on the nut. I had to place a block of wood under the prop for it to dig into to stop the shaft from rotating and break loose the nut. Don't remove the nut all the way, leave it on a few threads. When you use the prop puller and the prop breaks loose it till catch on the nut instead of dropping off the shaft.
Changing underwater is "in case of emergency only" if you ask me. It's very easy to do on a trailer. Harder to do on a lift and very difficult to do underwater. Now, if you have diving gear and want to play around maybe it would be fun.
Mojo Surf Ballast Setup
Went out this morning. The wave was great... The wife was less than thrilled. She'll get used to driving with all that extra weight & list with more time. She was full of great things to say after she turned too quick and took a big splash over the bow.
On my second time up, I was able to ditch the rope. Something I could have never done with the stock ballast.
Next I might need to investigate a new prop. Looking at wakemakers, they don't show the 1235 for the LSV, but rather the 1433. Any thoughts on this one ?
Honestly if your going to buy anew prop for the LSV get the 1617. I ran that on my LSV when the Wake Board prop wouldnt do it anymore. I got better fuel usage as well and the top speed didnt change from the wake board prop.
Originally Posted by drifter
1617 is a beast of a prop, and its super quite.
what is a hippity hop ball?