System line up is looking grear bud.
I agree with Sandm just get 1 pair of XM9s and use that extra money fo0r the Sub and round out the system. You can add the other pair of XM9s next season and it wont cost you that much as all it requires is splicing them into the existing wires, and retuning the amp.
As for the hidden compartment, it was on the boats with the Ski Locker, you had wire hole in the cubby to the ski locker and it had piping in it for wires, with a chanell that led to the drivers foot well area.
On the 12 and up it went to the Hard tank in the center and this compartment has dispeared as fare as i know. I just ran all my wires in my Mojo yesterday and went around the boar with the wires. Theres enough of a lip in the bow under the seats to zip tie all the wires up out of view and out of the way.
Also you can fit them behind the cup holders, and this is a Strong Must do option if you plan to run an IBS nose bag for surfing or wake boarding
I saw these at Lowe's the other day. They look like what the factory is now using to zip tie cables, wires, hoses, etc up & out of the way.
Appreciate all the help guys, as far as the channel my 2012 still has the ski locker. I think only the 12 mojo went to hard tanks. Ive never looked inside my ski locker for the pass-thru. Anyone else with a 2012 lsv have any experience with this? After looking over exiles site a little more it appears my budget concerns were primarily because I was looking at their higher end sub/amp combos.
Whatre everyones thoughts on the s12 dvc sub with a sm600.1. If i end up adding this to what I had planned will this then require me to add a 3rd battery?
Anyone have dimensions on a sub box that would work with my boat?
if you hang out and chill frequently, I'd encourage a single start battery and a dual battery configuration for the stereo/acc. there are many formulas that mla/earmark can give you to determine whether or not you need one and to what capacity, but I figure for $100, better safe than sorry. I was using 2 standard deep cycle group 24's and had 3 fosgate amps, 2 class ab and a class d on the sub. they never drained the batteries that I noticed and never had an amp go into protect from lack of voltage. we ran them pretty hard when at the dock chillin-typically 3-4hrs a day.
Since your boat is brand new and only has 2 pair of in-boats, I would consider adding a 3rd pair and evaluate the current amp. i do not know if the 2013's are still coming with the Kicker DX200.4 or now a Roswell amp. Even the best speaker will not sound its best when under powered.
A few posts back, you mentioned some concerns about adding batteries and battery life. I would highly suggest looking into a line of full-range Class-D amps. They are soo much more efficient then Class-A/B,as much as 40% more efficient. The draw less battery amp hours while producing the same watts output as a class-A/B, produce less heat as a byproduct and are typically smaller then their A/B counterparts.
Depending on how much bass output you seek, I would look into a 5 or 6 chnl amp for the in-boat and sub. There are quite a few Class-D option that can easily power 2-3 pairs of in-boats with up to as much as 500W RMS for a 2 ohm sub and its all in one chassis. These will drive a variety of 12" subs. This makes wiring easy as its one less amp to find room for and less cabling and connections.
I agree in sticking with the larger 8" HLCD if you want near-field listen and wake-board range projection.
Actually, Class D is typically 60 percent more efficient than Class AB. And Class H is about in the middle range at around 40 percent more efficient than Class AB.
It's important that you deplete your consumer-grade deep cycle batteries no less than 50 percent (from 12.7 to 12 volts) for maximum weekend to weekend performance and longevity.
Higher efficiency amplifiers are less of a strain on the batteries and charging system but there is another important aspect that is overlooked. As the supply voltage drops so does the amplifier power. After several hours of playtime your amplifiers could be at half power. A higher efficiency amplifier will better preserve the voltage and deliver more power under most conditions.
The S12 DVC sub with the 600.1 will rock nicly. A lot of people on here are running that exact combo. It will hit pretty hard. Honestly the Big 12 is a serious sub and unless you want to really shake the boat i think you will be happy with the S12.
Originally Posted by freshturk
As for the amps, im not going to tell you what i think you need to go with. There are sooo many out there, MLA and Dave both know amps very very well and push the Digi amps pretty hard on here.
It sometimes surprises me they do though, in a boating application and in your car using less power is always good, less heat is always good but for true Best sounding amplifers, you cant go wong with a quality A/B amp. I personally prefer to use them even though they run hotter and use more power because to me the sound is the most important thing.
This is why i select the speakers, i do, run the amps i run.
I have listened to everything out there thats big in the market, i have looked at all the new class D amps, and i could very easily go Class D to save room on my amp rack, save a battery in my battery tray, but at the end of the day. Nothing sounds as good as a quality A/b class amp.
Also it doesn't matter what u have if u don't match ur gains up right with ur low level inputs it won't sound the best it can.
I just started using the SMD DD-1 to set gains and it will make an extremely noticeable difference in sound quality and sound level I highly recommend it. The only way you could top it IMO is to set gains with an oscope but the dd-1 is way easier and much cheaper y'all should check it out you can get it from sonic electronix
I agree with the others that have commented on going with 2 tower speakers and adding a sub. I've had a wire come loose on the sub before and the overall sound just doesn't compare with having a sub vs not having one. Plus a large pair of HLCD's should get the job done at wake range.
If you are still debating on amps, which i'd imagine you would just match all the gear, but if not, the professionals here have noted on several threads that there is no quality loss when running the newer class d (maybe g/h as well) vs the class a/b.
jfox brings up a good point too. I still feel like I need to do some tweeking on the tuning side. I don't quite trust my ears to be musically accurate.
Kg go with that SMD dd-1 it awesome I was way off by ear I turned the gains down and it made my stuff louder and cleaner