cab...I did the same install on the sub and found that the wall is very thin. The screws rattle loose and I get a lot of rattle from the sub and areas around it. Did you have the same experience.
Also, on the location of the second amp. That also looks like a thin wall on the 06 LSV. I am scared to screw into it, but it doesn't look like you had a problem. What's the secret?
Is there any reason why I should not remove (cut out) the entire kick pannel and put a sealed box in the same place? Would this create any structural issues? or is it only there for looks.
I was told and read here that it is cosmetic only. I'm going to have mine cut out and put a 12 at my feet. I would prefer a 10 but I have 3 12's I got in trade for my old boat and need to use at least 1.
What do ya think 3 12's in an Lsv lol....
Al, You out there!
I got to hear the system and the bass does not sound boomy, its pretty punchy could be the JL amp being bridged. I do need to dial the gain a bit because it is somewhat overpowering. The rest of the system sounds great as well. :)
Sorry for the late post. I was off the board for a long time, have been trying to make up for it the last few weeks :)
Good to hear your system sounds good. Funny, I just scored a great deal on a JL M6600 new on EBay so we have very similar systems. I am running six Polk db651's in the cabin and 4 on the tower in aerial cans plus a 10" Polk/MOMO sub in the footbox. Only difference is that I have a separate amp running the sub. I plan to use the M6600 to power all 10 full range speakers. Will wire the 4 tower speakers parallel to channels 1&2, the 4 cabin speakers parallel to 3&4, and the 2 bow speakers to 5&6. My HU is an upgraded Kenwood with three sets of preouts and 4V input voltage so I've got plenty of signal strength and preouts and won't need an EQ. I am also going to try and get by with one battery for now - we'll see how that works out.
Can't wait to get it all hooked up. I still plan to seal that footbox - not sure how your sub sounds tight and mine boomy. I might try to run the sub off the M6600 to see if it's my sub amp, which is a cheap Boss but it's rated at 200W x2 rms @ 4ohms and I am running it bridged so it should have plenty of juice (says 1200W x1 bridged at 4 ohms but that's probably peak not rms). It does push the sub effortlessly so I don't think that's it.
Cool wait til you hear the JL ,order the bass control knob, that may help dial it in based on music type. You have the 06 lsv which may have a taller kick panel , which " may" cause some reverb.
I just ordered more aerial cans as well, they have the infinity 612m in them so i want to compare between the polk 651 for sound and loundness.
keep me posted.
One thing to remember is that even a non freeair sub in a freeair situation can sound decent if you adjust the amp correctly for conditions. Adjusting the amp/subs frequency limits is imperative to achieve this with the HU flat is a priority, then you can adjust the HU sub controls for optimum sound. Adding deadening material like Dynamat to the internal surfaces can help as well.
Originally Posted by Razzman
It's been a year since I installed the sub but I did make sure that it's only receiving low frequencies and the frequency cut off that I used was consistent with the sub and lines up with where I have the high pass filter set for the full range speakers. The gain adjustment on the sub amp is good as well.
My HU EQ is flat and I do use the subwoofer volume control to adjust the sub volume for the music playing at the time. I will try the dynamat. What else is there?
I don't have that problem. The screws are tight, no rattles.
Originally Posted by GoBucks
If you are talking about the walkway wall on the passenger side, that is pretty thick. I removed the spotter seat backrest at the hinges then used a long C- clamp to measure the thickness. I don't remember now exactly what it was but I want to say it was at least an inch thick.
That's exactly what Newty did. Search his posts to see lots of pics.
Originally Posted by ABC