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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,016

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    Quote Originally Posted by rdlangston13 View Post
    how leaky is leaky on a non dripless shaft seal?
    Well, you're supposed to get one drip every 30-45 seconds. I had a slow but steady stream coming in.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,016

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    I finally was able to get the gap closed to within spec. I started out with a .014" gap at the 9 o'clock position and zero gap at the 3 o'clock position (couplers touching). I didn't have a pry bar so I tried to use a block of wood and a sledgehammer to move the rear of the engine to starboard to close the gap at the couplers but it would not budge. Finally went over to the neighbor's and borrowed his 4' long pry bar and that did the trick. Ended up sliding the rear of the engine about 1/4" to starboard. The gap is now .002" from about 1 o'clock to 6 o'clock and zero gap (my smallest feeler gauge, .0015" would not go in) from 6 o'clock to about 1 o'clock. Is that good enough?

    A big thank you do Doug (DOCDRS) for answering my e-mails today and providing helpful hints that eventually got me thru this. I was ready to throw in the towel and take it to the dealer next week. A pry bar is definitely the way to go.

    I will post up a few pics tomorrow.

    Glad this one is behind me!

    Al
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    London Ontario Canada
    Posts
    1,856

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    that sounds great .... .014 down to .002 is super..... although the goal is to get it less than .002, .003 or less is acceptable in most books. so it just depends how anal you are. thanks for making this post Al, now that you look back you probably are thinking with the proper tools it really isn't that hard a procedure and now your alignment is .012 better.
    I've always been a proponent of alignment , and as Al discovered , your alignment can be out and you will not notice any vibration. It needs to be checked regularly as the rubber in your motor mounst will change over time...
    09 21v LAUNCH

    run your engine after you change your oil
    68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
    Doug

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Katy, TX
    Posts
    4,221

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    can we get a picture posted of what exactly these motor mounts look like and where the adjustment needs to be made at?
    David

    2008 Mobius LSV, Gravity III , Wake Plate, Z5, Exile SX65c's, Exile XM9s, Exile XI12D, Exile Harpoon, Exile SM600.1 , Exile Xi800.4.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,016

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rdlangston13 View Post
    can we get a picture posted of what exactly these motor mounts look like and where the adjustment needs to be made at?
    This is a pic of the couplers. First thing to do is loosen the 4 bolts holding them together then take a feeler gauge and measure the gap at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions.


    This is the port side, rear motor mount. The two nuts in the pic hold the trunnion pins in place. Loosen these two nuts then tap the pins toward the rear of the boat to loosen them and allow the motor mount to slide along the trunnion. Do the same for on the rear starboard side motor mount.


    Mark the trunnion as shown in the pic below so you know if you are moving the engine and by how much.


    This pic shows how to position a 4' pry bar in order to slide the engine to starboard. The blue thing is a steel chisel and was the right thickness for the job.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,016

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    This shows how much I moved the engine (about a 1/4") to close a .014" gap at the couplers to .002". Follow the instructions on the first page of this post to find out which way to move the engine depending on where your gap is.

    Last edited by cab13367; 06-03-2011 at 02:56 AM.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
    Posts
    929

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    Those pics are priceless! Thanks so much for posting.

    I am now confident that I could do this job myself.
    2008 Outback V - gravity III ballasts, perfect pass star gazer, hydraulic wake plate, depth finder, water stainer, rad-a-cage tower, board racks, tower mirror, bimini top, audio package d, graphics package e, appearance package, cockpit & tonneau cover, mooring cover, black stainless rubrail, docking lights, OJ 14.25x14.0 prop.

    Toys: Ronix Viva 136 with Kai bindings, Phase5 Drew Danielo Pro, Straight Line Sumo Sac 750lb, 450lb, 125lb ballast.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Katy, TX
    Posts
    4,221

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    [QUOTE=deafgoose;141506]Those pics are priceless! Thanks so much for posting.

    I am now confident that I could do this job myself.[/QUOTE

    as ami! Thanks!
    David

    2008 Mobius LSV, Gravity III , Wake Plate, Z5, Exile SX65c's, Exile XM9s, Exile XI12D, Exile Harpoon, Exile SM600.1 , Exile Xi800.4.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    488

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    Al, great pics for sure. I ned to re-check my alignment more closely too, I just have a sneaking suspicion after my whole sturt bushing debacle that it needs to be aligned.

    When you say tap on the pins, I am sort of unclear what pins you're talking about. You losen the bolts on the trunions, and then where do you tap (before you start prying)??
    08 LSV
    Go big, or go home.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    488

    Default

    Nevermind Al. Took a look inside the engine compartment just now, and saw what pins you were talking about. Done and done.
    08 LSV
    Go big, or go home.

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