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  1. #41
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    488

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    I've done all mine on the trailer. I hear the recommended method is when it's in the water, but I'm not a big fan of sitting idle on the water while I check all of this. I'd rather be having fun. I think checking it on the trailer is an equivalent method.
    08 LSV
    Go big, or go home.

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    London Ontario Canada
    Posts
    1,862

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    Quote Originally Posted by viking View Post
    Are you guys doing this on the trailer or on the water?
    Does it matter?
    In a perfect world water would be ideal but I don't know too many who do so sometimes we just have to live on our trailer.
    09 21v LAUNCH

    run your engine after you change your oil
    68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
    Doug

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    London Ontario Canada
    Posts
    1,862

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    Quote Originally Posted by squeeg333 View Post
    Well, I'm happy to report that I was successful in getting the engine and prop shaft coupling aligned. With phone call help from Doug (Docdrs), and some advice from Al, I was able to tackle this.

    As I mentioned previously, when the coupling bolts were removed, and the two couplings were pulled away from each other so that the fit on the v-drive coupling was not engaged to the prop shaft coupling, the propeller shaft would naturally sit about 1/8" to the Starboard of the v-drive coupling. Sitting in this orientation, when mated up, the prop shaft was constantly being pulled to the port side. You can see in the first two photos below the offset of the two couplings.

    So, to align the couplings I had to move the front of the engine. I loosened the front two trunnions by releasing the two trunnion pins. Then, using a crow bar, I was able to move the engine to the starboard until I was able to get them to line up. To check that, I repeatedly would check how the fit on the v-drive coupling affected the prop shaft when the two coupling were brought together. As you can see from the third photo, I had to move the engine about 1/4". Marking the trunnions prior to moving the engine was important, so you know where you started, and how far you've gone. The last two photos show how the coupling mates up now, just like it should. The photos have a bolt in them, but that bolt slips in very easily, meaning the couplings are concentric, and the prop shaft, when coupled with the v-drive, is still in it's 'natural' position.

    Once I got the two coupling concentric, the next task was an engine alignment. This involved a lot of minor tweaking of both the front and back trunions, and more up and down movements than the side to side.

    When raising or lowering the front of the engine, be sure to make a mark on a flat of the nut you will be turning and the top of the trunnion, so you know how many revolutions, or 'flats', you have turned the nut. Also, when raising or lowering the back of the engine, be sure to make identification marks so you know how many turns you've made, and to help you make smaller incremental changes (I marked the threads and the flat part of the trunnion in several locations).

    I was able to get everything aligned to within .002 or less. It took me several hours to do all of this, as I was doing this by myself, but this is MUCH better than it was, and I am very pleased that the couplings are aligned, and everything is in it's natural state. The propeller turns much easier now as well.

    Thanks again for all of the advise I got. This was kind of fun - though my knees weren't happy with me for about a day.

    Great job .....thanks for the clear pics.....good to see more guys tackling this
    btw , nice chattin with ya.....cheers
    09 21v LAUNCH

    run your engine after you change your oil
    68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
    Doug

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    488

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    Thanks again Doug. I appreciate the help, and was a pleasure chatting with ya.

    Just a word of advise to anyone who tackles this, and decides to replace their coupling bolts. Be sure to use anti-sieze on the threads prior to tightening things up. I made the mistake of assembling the new coupling bolts and nylocks dry. The 4th one decided to gall on me - and it galled to the point of siezing. So, 35 minutes later (I was using a dul hacksaw blade first - then switched to a brand new one and it cut like butter) I was able to get thru the bolt. I removed the ones I had already tightened, and replaced all with new parts, and put nickel anti-sieze on them. Two of the three that I removed that had already been tightened were galling as they were coming part.

    Just a work of caution here. It shouldn't have been this difficult, but, who knows. Maybe just got a bad batch. But stainless has a tendancy to gall, and if it does, it can be a day ender. I got my new hardware from McMaster, as I couldn't find anything local.

    Happy time!
    08 LSV
    Go big, or go home.

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,016

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    Quote Originally Posted by squeeg333 View Post
    Thanks again Doug. I appreciate the help, and was a pleasure chatting with ya.

    Just a word of advise to anyone who tackles this, and decides to replace their coupling bolts. Be sure to use anti-sieze on the threads prior to tightening things up. I made the mistake of assembling the new coupling bolts and nylocks dry. The 4th one decided to gall on me - and it galled to the point of siezing. So, 35 minutes later (I was using a dul hacksaw blade first - then switched to a brand new one and it cut like butter) I was able to get thru the bolt. I removed the ones I had already tightened, and replaced all with new parts, and put nickel anti-sieze on them. Two of the three that I removed that had already been tightened were galling as they were coming part.

    Just a work of caution here. It shouldn't have been this difficult, but, who knows. Maybe just got a bad batch. But stainless has a tendancy to gall, and if it does, it can be a day ender. I got my new hardware from McMaster, as I couldn't find anything local.

    Happy time!
    So why did you decide to replace the bolts? I just loosened mine, moved the engine, then tightened them back up. I did not have any galling issues.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
    Posts
    929

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    How are you guys accessing the shaft?

    Removing the floor?
    2008 Outback V - gravity III ballasts, perfect pass star gazer, hydraulic wake plate, depth finder, water stainer, rad-a-cage tower, board racks, tower mirror, bimini top, audio package d, graphics package e, appearance package, cockpit & tonneau cover, mooring cover, black stainless rubrail, docking lights, OJ 14.25x14.0 prop.

    Toys: Ronix Viva 136 with Kai bindings, Phase5 Drew Danielo Pro, Straight Line Sumo Sac 750lb, 450lb, 125lb ballast.

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,016

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    Quote Originally Posted by deafgoose View Post
    How are you guys accessing the shaft?

    Removing the floor?
    Just remove the vdrive cover and reach around it. I also disconnected some hoses and electrical that were in the way.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    488

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    Al, I decided to replace the bolts because it looks like the bolts had never been tightened from day one. I think it was last fall, during winterizing, that I found all four bolts were loose. I removed one at that time, and found that the threads that weren't covered by the nuts had been flattened from being worked back and forth. I'm guessing, seeing that damage, that these bolts had never been tightened. I just felt better replaceing them... but then, right on cue, I had issues (the galling). It's all good now, but just frustrating. The old studs were in decent shape besides the flattened threads.
    08 LSV
    Go big, or go home.

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    London Ontario Canada
    Posts
    1,862

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    After a period of checks , the nylocks should be replaced as the nylon wears out its holding power
    09 21v LAUNCH

    run your engine after you change your oil
    68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
    Doug

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Katy, TX
    Posts
    4,234

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    So I am sitting in my boat as I tyPe this, been working on this all day minus 4 hours when the sun was directly over head. Mine was way off and I had to raise the front of the engine half a turn and am now trying to adjust the left right movement and this thing will not budge. I have the 2 pins on either side of the rear loose and am using a 3 foot pry bar and giving it my all, any suggestions?
    David

    2008 Mobius LSV, Gravity III , Wake Plate, Z5, Exile SX65c's, Exile XM9s, Exile XI12D, Exile Harpoon, Exile SM600.1 , Exile Xi800.4.

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