Since I've installed my IBS system I've had a lot of "how to" questions from folks on the boards here. So I figured I'd go ahead and post up a detailed post on the subject. Hope this answers any questions you guys have.
Parts you need.
1 3/4" 12v empty/discharge pump
3 Fly High 3/4" Flow-Rite Quick Release Connect W736
3 Fly High 3/4" Elbow Flow-Rite Quick Release Connector W742
1 3/4" through hull fitting
1 3/4" spring check (must be spring, not ball or swing checks)
1 3/4" barbed 90/elbow
10 stainless hose clamps 1/2" to 1 1/4"
2 3/4" female thread by 3/4" barbed
2 3/4" male thread by 3/4 barbed
8' of 3/4" ballast hose depending on the way you route everything. Measure, measure, measure!
1 role of teflon tape
1 roll of good heavy electrical tape. I use it to wrap the hose clamps up really well so they don't rub on the bags
Tools you need.
3/4" hole saw
1 1/4" hole saw
I like to use a nut driver for the hose clamps because a flat head screwdriver works better at stabbing yourself in the hand and I've stabbed my hand enough.
At least 3 beers.
First mark and drill your holes, 1 1/4" in the floor and 3/4" in the hull.
One thing I noticed is that depending on the day the boat was built the two ballast thru-hulls in the back are going to be spaced differently. So measure the distance between the two back ones and drill your new one the same spacing from the old front to match the spacing on the rear. Make sense?
Now I drilled the hole in the floor behind the stainless angle under the passenger bow seat to keep things tight. If you don't want to drill a hole and you have room in your boat where the battery cables and such come through the floor just run the hose there.
Slide the bow bag back a little to access the front port. For some reason my floor sac fittings were not glued like the rear sacs were from the factory so it spun right out. Results may vary. Depending on the orientation of the bag make sure the port is on top, meaning it would make it a vent.
Attatch the hose to the quick connect and install it on the bag.
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Thread: Integrated Bow Sac install
05-28-2010, 09:28 PM #1
Integrated Bow Sac install
Last edited by newty; 04-15-2012 at 11:21 PM.
05-28-2010, 09:56 PM #2
Now you want to slide the floor sack back into position and feed the hose up through either the newly drilled hole, or through the battery cable chase. Make sure you have enough slack as not to kink the hose when the bag is full.
Making sure you have a few inches of slack cut the hose and install the barbed 90/elbow with a hose clamp. Clamp the remaining hose to the other end of the barb and run it to area where the sac is.
The reason for the elbow is to keep the hose as close to the floor as possible so when the bag is being emptied the remaining water in this leg of the bag will drain back to the floor sack. this alleviates the need for 2 drain pumps.
Install your IBS and measure the hose needed to make the connection.
Next I I installed the two female threaded barbs on the pump and laid it about where I wanted it. Cut the hose accordingly and make the connections.
Run the hose from the pump to your new through hull and make that connection.
Here is the tricky part. Install the two male threaded by barbed to the spring check. You need to remove the floor sac hose from the through hull and install the spring check with the arrow going out of the boat. Now you will need a short hose to make the connection from the spring check to the hull again. This does two things:
1. It keeps air from filling the floor sack on the road.
2. It it creates just enough back pressure to divert the pressure from the full floor sack to the IBS in the bow.
If you want to fill just the floor sac you will need to keep a close eye on it as not to overflow into the IBS.
When both sacs are full the water will overflow out of the new through hull.
The empty pump of the floor sac can easily overcome the spring check so no worries there.
Next I ran the wires from the pump to the ballast switch panel and tied the wires into the empty side of the front ballast switch. So now when flip the switch to empty the front ballast it kicks on the IBS empty pump as well.
They both take approx the same amount of time to empty so it wont hurt anything. These pumps are ok to run dry for a while anyway.
I have considered adding a 4th switch like Brainrinse but for now it works really well. I've run it this way for one full season with no issues.
The only other thing I've considered changing is adding a vent to the nose plug on the IBS to help vent air and tie it into the drain line from the empty pump on the IBS.
This will work on the OBV, LSV and the XLV.
Hope this help guys!
Last edited by newty; 04-15-2012 at 11:25 PM.
05-28-2010, 10:26 PM #3
Looks fantastic. Thanks for the effort here. Need a picture of your surf wake in this thread running this full.My Mom said I'm not allowed to get wet!
05-28-2010, 11:01 PM #4
You bet! for refference I'm 6' on the dark side. Bruce is 5'9" ish on the regular side. Sorry for the poor quality but you get the idea!
Last edited by newty; 05-28-2010 at 11:05 PM.
05-29-2010, 03:44 PM #5
Great write up bro. This looks pretty much exactly how i got mine. Wonder how that happened LOL.
I did run a vent off my Nose bag and Y connected it to the drain.Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
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05-29-2010, 07:43 PM #6Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2009
- Murfreesboro, Tennessee
Good clean job Newty.
05-30-2010, 03:33 AM #7Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
- Tumwater, WA
Wow this is awesome!! I really wanna do this but I'm not sure I have the guts to start cutting like that!! I need to just try it!!
05-30-2010, 10:14 PM #8
Thanks man. Solid write up. I'm looking forward to this mod for sure!! Not too tough, and it works just about the way I thought it would.
And look, no sewing machine required!!08 LSV
Go big, or go home.
06-02-2010, 09:12 AM #9And look, no sewing machine required!!
06-02-2010, 09:44 AM #10
Great writeup, Newty! This is a really great way to get a bow sac automated without a lot of additional cost and work.Dan
08 LSV Mods