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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Tigard, Oregon
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    Quote Originally Posted by dusty2221 View Post
    Thanks cab, the reason I was planning on running a dedicated wire to each + and - on the speakers is because I have 100ft of 12g 4 conductor speaker wire with an outer jacket covering all 4 lines. So, my plan, the wire has red, green, black, and white, was to just make one run which would include all the wires for both speakers. At the speaker, I planned to hook the red and black to one speaker, then the green and white to the other + and -, and back at the amp wire the two positives together and same with the grounds. So it still gets a 2ohm presence at the amp, but each speaker has it's "own" line all the way to the amp. make sense?
    Dusty,

    Running a separate home run from each speaker to the amp (8 wires in all) is certainly the best way to do it, but you are going to have a hard time running 4 pairs of 12 gauge wire thru the tower, especially going around the pivot. But maybe that bundled 4 conductor cable has a lower profile than the traditional, two conductor 12 gauge wire. The way I show it, you would only need 4 home runs back to the amp for all 4 speakers, instead of 8, and you will accomplish the same thing. But either way, yes, the amp will see a 2 ohm load.

    Al
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    1,819

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    Hey Al, I should have clarified, the tower will be ran your way, so that there are only two pair(which is one run of my coated cable) running up tower, but the in boats will have the way I described last.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Tigard, Oregon
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    Quote Originally Posted by dusty2221 View Post
    Hey Razz, here are the ratings for the Sub amp I have, it is a Planet Audio AC1500:
    Anarchy Series Monoblock Car Amplifier
    RMS Power Rating:
    * 2 ohms: 1100 watts x 1 chan.
    Max power output:
    * 2 ohms: 1500 watts x 1 chan.

    And as far as the sub, it is the Kicker CVR with these ratings:
    10" CompVR Component Subwoofer
    Power Handling:
    * Peak: 800 watts
    * RMS: 400 watts
    Dual 4 ohm model

    So based on that combination, what would the preferred method be?
    Dusty,

    "Preferred" implies you have more than one option but with one amp and a dual voice coil 4 ohm sub, there really is only one option. And that is to wire the two voice coils in parralel as shown in my sketch as well as Razz's (Razz's is just much prettier ) which results in a 2 ohm load at the amp.

    Al
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,016

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    Quote Originally Posted by dusty2221 View Post
    Hey Al, I should have clarified, the tower will be ran your way, so that there are only two pair(which is one run of my coated cable) running up tower, but the in boats will have the way I described last.
    Gotcha. Sounds like you have it pretty well figured out then.

    Let us know how it goes and be sure to post up some pics along the way.

    Al
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
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    2,491

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    For the towers, unless we have changed plans?, we are just going to do 4 runs of wires (2 pairs) to the tower speakers so its easier to run and we dont have to drill out the tower holes any larger. We will split run parallel once in the tower cans.

    My questions is this. can we just run the parallel through the speakers as in connecting the 2 + and the 2 - together from speaker to speaker or is it best to splice the wire into 2 pos and 2 neg? Im just thinking it would be cleaner if you could just make a short run of wire from one speaker to the other.

    Kinda hard to explain, if that doesnt make sense I guess i'll have to draw a picture .. :P
    2006 Supra 24SSV

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    2,491

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    Guess you can scratch my 1st paragraph .. ha, that happened quick.
    2006 Supra 24SSV

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
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    I've got a ton of "build" pics so far, but I'm fiing to be stalled out for a couple weeks, so I'll hold off on posting


  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    De Pere WI
    Posts
    4,179

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    kg,
    I took the +/- and soldered that into 2 leads, one short one to the speaker in the can where the wires are joined, and one longer one to leapfrog to the next can/speaker. you can wire the lead coming up the leg directly to the speaker and then jump it off to the next one in the can. I don't think that either is preferred, just make sure you have good soldered joints and wrapped well from the elements and grounding..

    as far as your runs, you only need a left +/- and right +/- up the leg. one set of speaker cables. don't run a pair for each speaker

    keep us posted..
    '06 Supra Launch 20SSV-gone but never forgotten

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,016

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    Quote Originally Posted by KG's Supra24 View Post
    For the towers, unless we have changed plans?, we are just going to do 4 runs of wires (2 pairs) to the tower speakers so its easier to run and we dont have to drill out the tower holes any larger. We will split run parallel once in the tower cans.

    My questions is this. can we just run the parallel through the speakers as in connecting the 2 + and the 2 - together from speaker to speaker or is it best to splice the wire into 2 pos and 2 neg? Im just thinking it would be cleaner if you could just make a short run of wire from one speaker to the other.

    Kinda hard to explain, if that doesnt make sense I guess i'll have to draw a picture .. :P
    KG,

    Yes, u can just connect one pos and neg pair from the amp to ur first speaker then connect the pos of speaker 1 to the pos of speaker 2, and the neg of speaker 1 to the neg of speaker 2. That works fine as well.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
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    ^ Awesome! That should make for a cleaner install as long as it puts the same ohm load on the amps and MAX wattage at speakers

    Speaking of clean installs, ive seen previews of Dustys work to date. Could come out VERY clean ..... and the pressure builds ...
    2006 Supra 24SSV

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