Engine starts with Perko switch in the "off" position.

[bzubke1]

We always turn the batteries to the off position after use. One day we forgot to turn the batteries back on but the engine still started and ran fine, after a couple minutes we noticed none of the accessories were working and we left the perko switch in the "off" position. I'm sure there is a problem just not sure what it is?

We had a local audio guy install the second battery and perko switch so I'm not sure if he did everything right I wasn't to excited about the quality of the rest of his work, I ended up redoing most of it anyways.

[bzubke1]

I also noticed that the stock positive and negatives cables are hooked straight to the starting battery, I'm thinking this is wrong.

[DOCDRS]

Sounds like it is hooked up wrong. This way you are unable to control the battery charging from the motor. Look in your manual or the 08 download it will show you how it should be set up. Although there are other ways it can be setup depending how you want the charging and draining of your batteries to to be determined.

The + motor should be going to your common on the perko switch then 1+, 2+ to your batteries respectively. this will control which battery will be charged or both but also which battery/s will be used to start your engine.

[mmandley]

Check this link out it explains it all perfectly

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...alBattery.html

If you run more then 2 batteries like i do then you just piggy back them all off the second battery simply positive to positive and negative to negative.

FYI sounds like to me he ran the Alternator line to the center post in the Perko and ran the starter directly to the battery still. Then ran the fuse panel power to the perko as well.

So in effect he is only controlling the charging system of the boat and not the starting system as well

[bzubke1]

I just went and checked it out. He wired the common post on the perko to the circuit breaker. Then #1 goes to the stereo battery and #2 goes to the stock battery. I also noticed there was a little red blue sea fuse block that he connected straight to the positive of the stereo battery. Is all this good or should I work on changing it?

[EarmarkMarine]

It is truely just as simple as the above schematic implies except that the diagram doesn't inclube all the elements of adding a stereo.
When you add a second battery and a dual battery switch then:
All negatives are interconnected.
The two battery positives connect ONLY to poles 1 and 2 respectively on the switch.
ALL other positive cables and connections including the alternator feed, helm buss breaker and stereo amplifier/electronics go to the 'common' lug on the dual battery switch. No exceptions (note to follow). The starter feed is already parallel with the alternator at the engine so you don't have to be concerned with this one.
Exceptions: If you want you can run the stereo memory directly to the intended stereo or 'at rest' accessory battery. But this is not suitable for long term storage beyond two weeks. Much less if you've put the battery up with less than a full charge which happens with big stereos and short trips back to the trailer. So if you don't want instant memory loss with every switch use then add a small switch or disconnect to the memory feed for long term storage.
The other exception is if you have a bilge float switch/pump and you leave your boat unattended or stored in the water (like the old days before lifts).

David
Earmark Marine

[bzubke1]

I went and looked at it a little closer and it is the fuse for the stock kicker amp so thats all good.

[DOCDRS]

can you post a pic of your set up, do you have a vsr or just a switch?

[bzubke1]

David, if I understand what you're saying I should have the big positive battery cable and all the battery cables for the amp wired to the common post of the perko switch. How do you get all this to fit on that one post.

Doc, I only have the perko switch.

Here's the mess I'm working with hopefully the labels help out and make sense.

[DOCDRS]

Here is another way to set it up as per oem. This way allows you to control your battery charging.
Davids will work but in reality to hook all the +ve to the common lug of the switch is impractical imo.
Looks like the guy was too lazy to change the terminal on the engine +ve.

With the way it is set up now the only way you can charge your stereo battery is to set it to both setting, the switch is only changing which battery will operate your acc bus