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Thread: Paging Phil

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Kaukauna, WI - 3minutes from glass
    Posts
    1,604

    Default Paging Phil

    Phil I have a 10 L5 that I am looking to build a new box for but I cannot find any of the specs on the Kicker website. Can you help me out.

    I am hoping to build something similar to this:
    http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=387410

    Thanks
    -Mark

    02 Mobius LSV - GIII Ballast - Kicker 6500.2 Six Pack powered by 650.4 - Polk cabins, 10" L5 powered by Kicker 750.5 - Perfect Pass wakeboard pro

    "Hey you only live once"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    2,350

    Default

    That is very sweet!! You have to share some of those pics if you do it. Great use of space.
    2006 Supra 24SSV

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Stillwater, Oklahoma
    Posts
    297

    Default

    Looking at what the guy did, it looks like roughly 2 cu.ft. sealed. That is a good volume for the woofer you are considering. I would follow that guy's lead in terms of duplicating the construction for your boat. You can't go too wrong with a big sealed box like that.

    I will recommend a void-free plywood for construction of the sub box. I know there are those who would argue with my opinon, but as a wood boat restorer, I have a keen understanding of what woods work and what woods don't in a marine environment. If you can find a 13-ply 3/4-inch "birch" plywood it is an ideal material for enclosure building.

    I saw a you-tube video of some 'tard trying to explain why you want MDF and his description was complete and utter nonsense... Shy away from MDF. It cannot last, and for the frequencies involved in a sub box, it has no acoustic benefit.

    Build the box so it is resting on some synthetic, (plastic, fiberglass, ABS) stand-offs/feet so that the raw wood, treated wood, whatever wood is not sitting there right against the carpet.

    If you can cut smooth straight tight-fitting joints, use Franklin Tite-bond II waterproof wood glue and STAINLESS screws to build the enclosure. If you are doing jig-saw/skill saw construction, consider a gap-filling adhesive such as construction adhesive, (caulk-tube stuff) instead if the Tite-bond. Whichever way you go, caulk all inside seams just to make sure you are as air-tight as possible.


    Other than that, cut your parts to fit your boat, shooting for about 1.5 - 2 cu. ft. and make it your own unique creation!

    Phil
    Kicker

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Kaukauna, WI - 3minutes from glass
    Posts
    1,604

    Default

    Thanks Phil! Your input is 75% of the reason that I have the equipment that I have on my boat.

    Current Equipment:
    Kicker 650.4 for towers
    6500.2 on the tower
    Kicker 750.5 Cabins / Sub
    Solo Baric 10" L5


    I will definitely take pictures when I start construction.
    -Mark

    02 Mobius LSV - GIII Ballast - Kicker 6500.2 Six Pack powered by 650.4 - Polk cabins, 10" L5 powered by Kicker 750.5 - Perfect Pass wakeboard pro

    "Hey you only live once"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    toronto
    Posts
    46

    Default

    2nd to what Phil said about the MDF, even MDO (exterior version) won't stand up. Epoxy will be your friend in this situation.
    '90 Supra Conbrio

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    880

    Default

    In our shop we have an example of cabinet grade birch constructed with solvent-based adhesives. After a long stay in a boat and resting on the sole it was totally delaminating after two seasons. No matter what you build your box from, osmosis will eventually break down the material or adhesive. Your best barrier will be the quality of construction and the execution. Even if you rest a gelcoated fiberglass enclosure directly on the sole, with that much surface area against carpet you've created a major moisture trap resulting in mold and mildew. Its just a matter of time. So elevate the enclosure by at least 1/2-inch with polymer pads, allow for drainage between the enclosure back and angled floor hump and put your boat into storage with an empty bilge.

    David
    Earmark Marine

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