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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    Stillwater, Oklahoma
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    310

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    Quote Originally Posted by E4NASH View Post
    The batteries in the boat are low however he hooked them up to a battery charger connected to the wall and it is still generating a constant 12V.

    I believe the bass boost is turned up a little on on the sub channel. I also have the Remote Bass knob which at one point was turned all the way up.

    On Amp 1 and 2 the Gain is set at about the second notch I think. HPF is set around 100 - 120.



    I don't think there is a short but obviously that could be a possibility. The status light goes to red and then I think it goes completely off if I correctly heard him talking to the other owner of the shop.

    Thanks for the help!

    I am going to bet that you have dead batteries. A charger is going to put out on average only around 10A. You can easily pull 10x that with your stereo, and a battery charger will not keep up. Let it charge a while and try again tomorrow.

    In the meantime, listen to what David has to say, (Earmark) about battery and system power mwiring. He has forgotten more than I will ever know about wiring battery systems and he has some good advice about the PROPER way to wire a dual battery system in a boat and connect a stereo to it. You may want to consider moving your battery loads around based on his advice.

    Phil
    Kicker
    Last edited by philwsailz; 04-28-2011 at 03:37 PM.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Canton, Ga / Lake Lanier
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    1,590

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    Quote Originally Posted by EarmarkMarine View Post
    E4NASH,
    Did you purchase all the equipment from the installer who put it in?
    If you have dual batteries then I assume you have a dual battery switch. If you have a switch then everything should be running to the switch rather than battery direct.
    Has anyone checked the voltage at the amplifier primary terminals when the amplifier begins to clip?
    Give us a bit more description of what you are hearing when the system is "clipping"...the five-channel amplifier only, right?
    While the sub impedance and all other speaker configuration/impedances appear to be fine as you have it, you may want to disconnect the sub and try it. If a voice coil is in the early stages of failure it can behave differently once heated up. Eliminate a set of channels at a time.
    Flip the front and rear RCAs to the two amplifiers to take the HU out of the equation.
    Triple check all the power terminations as they can look fine until you really tug on them. The continuity and voltage can measure fine at zero current draw on a meter but under serious current draw can be starving. Hopefully all the supply cable gauge is adequate.
    I would automatically say its a voltage problem and it would certainly show up on the amplifier with the sub section first. But with showing up in one amplifier only it could be the amplifier. The dealer that you purchased it from should be able to bench check the amplifier under enough load and induce enough heat that when tested independently of the boat they can determine whether its product or not.
    Thats a start.

    David
    Earmark Marine
    David,

    No, I bought the Sub and Amps from a "Licensed E-seller" and my installer is a Kicker Dealer.

    He has checked the voltage when it clips and its a constant 12V

    I do have the dual switch but he ran both the power and ground to the battery itself.

    When the system "Clips" it turns off and then you turn the volume down or adjust the gain and it may come back on.

    Yes the problem is only the 5 channel

    The installer is still troubleshooting the setup now. I had to go back to work. I assume he is going through the tests that you are suggesting.

    The 700.2 was run with 4 Gauge. He ran the 450.2 with 8 gauge. I am not having any problem out of the 450.
    SOLD! 2011 Mobius LSV 325HP EFI
    Digital Cruise Pro, Wakeplate, Kenwood KM550U and KCA-RC107MR x2, Kicker ZXM700.5, Kicker 6.5 Cabins, 10'' Kicker CompVT sub, Wetsounds SYN 4, Wetsounds REV10s, Wetsounds WS420Q, Gravity VI Surf Ballast, Acme 537

    Board: '12 LF Harley (Monster) 139
    Her Board: '11 Ronix Krush 128
    Kids Board: '13 Ronix Vision 120
    Skate: LF Faction 44
    Surf: LF Custom Quad & XXX


    Tow Rig:
    2011 Toyota Tundra CrewMax TRD Magnetic Grey
    3/1 Truxx Lift, and some other stuff...

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Stillwater, Oklahoma
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    Quote Originally Posted by E4NASH View Post
    The 700.2 was run with 4 Gauge. He ran the 450.2 with 8 gauge. I am not having any problem out of the 450.
    Know that the 8 ga is too small for the 450.2....

    Phil
    Kicker

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Canton, Ga / Lake Lanier
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    That is what I thought as well. I am going to have that replaced.
    SOLD! 2011 Mobius LSV 325HP EFI
    Digital Cruise Pro, Wakeplate, Kenwood KM550U and KCA-RC107MR x2, Kicker ZXM700.5, Kicker 6.5 Cabins, 10'' Kicker CompVT sub, Wetsounds SYN 4, Wetsounds REV10s, Wetsounds WS420Q, Gravity VI Surf Ballast, Acme 537

    Board: '12 LF Harley (Monster) 139
    Her Board: '11 Ronix Krush 128
    Kids Board: '13 Ronix Vision 120
    Skate: LF Faction 44
    Surf: LF Custom Quad & XXX


    Tow Rig:
    2011 Toyota Tundra CrewMax TRD Magnetic Grey
    3/1 Truxx Lift, and some other stuff...

  5. #15
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    Feb 2010
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    Canton, Ga / Lake Lanier
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    Quote Originally Posted by EarmarkMarine View Post
    E4NASH,
    If you have dual batteries then I assume you have a dual battery switch. If you have a switch then everything should be running to the switch rather than battery direct....


    David
    Earmark Marine
    David,

    Explain to me why this is best. I'm not doubting you by any means. I just want to understand\learn\know.
    SOLD! 2011 Mobius LSV 325HP EFI
    Digital Cruise Pro, Wakeplate, Kenwood KM550U and KCA-RC107MR x2, Kicker ZXM700.5, Kicker 6.5 Cabins, 10'' Kicker CompVT sub, Wetsounds SYN 4, Wetsounds REV10s, Wetsounds WS420Q, Gravity VI Surf Ballast, Acme 537

    Board: '12 LF Harley (Monster) 139
    Her Board: '11 Ronix Krush 128
    Kids Board: '13 Ronix Vision 120
    Skate: LF Faction 44
    Surf: LF Custom Quad & XXX


    Tow Rig:
    2011 Toyota Tundra CrewMax TRD Magnetic Grey
    3/1 Truxx Lift, and some other stuff...

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Canton, Ga / Lake Lanier
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    ANNNNND...now my installer calls me back and says everything is working fine again. He's going to keep it again over night and see if it happens again and if so find what the problem is. This is CRAZY!
    SOLD! 2011 Mobius LSV 325HP EFI
    Digital Cruise Pro, Wakeplate, Kenwood KM550U and KCA-RC107MR x2, Kicker ZXM700.5, Kicker 6.5 Cabins, 10'' Kicker CompVT sub, Wetsounds SYN 4, Wetsounds REV10s, Wetsounds WS420Q, Gravity VI Surf Ballast, Acme 537

    Board: '12 LF Harley (Monster) 139
    Her Board: '11 Ronix Krush 128
    Kids Board: '13 Ronix Vision 120
    Skate: LF Faction 44
    Surf: LF Custom Quad & XXX


    Tow Rig:
    2011 Toyota Tundra CrewMax TRD Magnetic Grey
    3/1 Truxx Lift, and some other stuff...

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Stillwater, Oklahoma
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    310

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    Quote Originally Posted by E4NASH View Post
    ANNNNND...now my installer calls me back and says everything is working fine again. He's going to keep it again over night and see if it happens again and if so find what the problem is. This is CRAZY!
    Maybe the battery is a little more charged up now....

    Know an amp uses voltage and current to make power. You can measure 12 volts at the battery but have it so dead that it cannot provide the current to keep the amp going. I can put 8 D cell batteries end to end and measure 12 volts but there is no way it is going to run the amp... Not enough current....



    You say he is measuring a constant 12 volts; you should know you can do that with a dead bettery on a charger. A dead battery on a charger will not run the amp; the charger will not put out enough current. However if with the stereo playing you go and measure the voltage right at the amp, when a loud parts comes up and the amp goes dead the voltage will tell a very different story. If you have the system playing intermittently and you put your volt meter probes on the pwer terminals of the amplifier, I bet you will see if sucking down to 10 volts or so...

    That is my hunch at this point... Charge that thing up some more...

    Phil
    Kicker
    Last edited by philwsailz; 04-28-2011 at 04:29 PM.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Canton, Ga / Lake Lanier
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    I did some reading\research and came across this thread:

    http://moomba.com/msgboard/showthread.php?t=14456

    After reading it and gathering what I think is the proper setup for wiring my amps to the Perko Switch I have instructed my installer to Wire the amps directly to the common post of the Perko switch instead of directly to battery number 1 and nothing else going to the batteries other than the #1 and #2 posts. Is this correct? If it's on the common post as stated in the link above how will it know which battery to run the stereo on if I switch it to number 2. Does the common post pull from whatever battery is selected? I think Mike (mmandley) suggested putting them on the 2nd post. Which is the corect way? Shouldn't one be for the stereo and one be for cranking the engine. Thinking that makes me think it should be on the battery # 2 post.
    Last edited by E4NASH; 04-28-2011 at 05:53 PM.
    SOLD! 2011 Mobius LSV 325HP EFI
    Digital Cruise Pro, Wakeplate, Kenwood KM550U and KCA-RC107MR x2, Kicker ZXM700.5, Kicker 6.5 Cabins, 10'' Kicker CompVT sub, Wetsounds SYN 4, Wetsounds REV10s, Wetsounds WS420Q, Gravity VI Surf Ballast, Acme 537

    Board: '12 LF Harley (Monster) 139
    Her Board: '11 Ronix Krush 128
    Kids Board: '13 Ronix Vision 120
    Skate: LF Faction 44
    Surf: LF Custom Quad & XXX


    Tow Rig:
    2011 Toyota Tundra CrewMax TRD Magnetic Grey
    3/1 Truxx Lift, and some other stuff...

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lighthouse Point, FL
    Posts
    208

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    The best explaination for prope battery switch wiring kinda goes like this. Compare it to a sink faucet with a hot and cold control. The water that comes out is your load, ie stereo, starter. If you turn on Hot or 1, the water coming out the faucet is just from that battery servicing the load. if you turn on cold or 2 that battery services the load. If you turn them both on then you are using battery 1 and 2.

    So, if you park the boat and leave the stereo on batt 1, that battery will be run down when you leave, lets just go with its dead. So you cant start the boat, so switch to battery battery 2 and start the boat. Or vice versa
    Did that help??
    REALLY????

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Canton, Ga / Lake Lanier
    Posts
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    Default

    Ok, I got that part but which post on the Perko should the amps be connected to....1, 2, or common? Do I just pick one and let that be that??
    SOLD! 2011 Mobius LSV 325HP EFI
    Digital Cruise Pro, Wakeplate, Kenwood KM550U and KCA-RC107MR x2, Kicker ZXM700.5, Kicker 6.5 Cabins, 10'' Kicker CompVT sub, Wetsounds SYN 4, Wetsounds REV10s, Wetsounds WS420Q, Gravity VI Surf Ballast, Acme 537

    Board: '12 LF Harley (Monster) 139
    Her Board: '11 Ronix Krush 128
    Kids Board: '13 Ronix Vision 120
    Skate: LF Faction 44
    Surf: LF Custom Quad & XXX


    Tow Rig:
    2011 Toyota Tundra CrewMax TRD Magnetic Grey
    3/1 Truxx Lift, and some other stuff...

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