F- to Boatmate Trailers

[rdlangston13]

well maybe we need to find out who all has had a torsion axle failure and has pulled the boat level and who had a failure and had it leaning one direction or another. If I were a trailer builder I would design each axle with the capability of holding the entire load just in case a axle failure or a flat tire occurred. My tandem axle trailer leans slightly forward but that will be corrected once i get home and install my air bag leveling kit that i just purchased. Hopefully with that inflated i can tow the boat level with a truck bed full of gear.

[bergermaister]

With the tandem leaf springs, don't they share a common spring hanger between the axles?

Yes - Mine has a shared spring hanger between the front and rear spring like an inverted T that pivots - lets the front and rear travel up and down independently if that make sense. I've never had an axle hanging in the air going up or down a steep driveway and there's been a few where I've scraped the belly of the trailer. I have seen utility trailers do that though but I'd bet they didn't share the pivoting hanger type setup.

I personally prefer a tandem - less weight per tire. If you ever were unfortunate enough to suffer a blowout you're not going to drop the whole trailer on it's side and start dragging. Imagine doing that at 60-70mph!

Plus I have always felt that a tandem just tracks straighter behind the truck with less sway.

100% agree about towing with the trailer sitting level. Same thing with travel trailers. Get a drop or raised hitch if you need to!

[rdlangston13]

tandem axles also make it reverse straighter

[rdlangston13]

so this last time i was out i noticed about all of the wood screw bolts that hold the bunks on the trailer are about half way out. When I tried to tighten them back in they just spun and would not bite, rotten wood im guessing.

Then when loading the boat back on the trailer i had to give it a little juice since the ramp is so slick i cant back the truck tires below the water line. This ripped out the staples on the back of one of the bunks. I bought some liquid rollers yesterday and plan on replacing and re-carpeting all the bunks as soon as i get home from work in two weeks.

What kind of wood or material do yall recommend for this? I was thinking pressure treated boards at home depot using bolts and nuts to secure the new bunks instead of those cheap screws. i figure if i put a bolt in from the top even if the nut falls off the bolt will prevent the bunk from sliding off the trailer.

[mmandley]

Just make sure you counter sink them bolts on the top or the carpet wont last to long.

[rdlangston13]

Just make sure you counter sink them bolts on the top or the carpet wont last to long.

yeah the plan is to use a router and go about 1 inch into the bunk so the bolt head will be down. then drill a hole into that hole, place the bolt in from the top, nut and washer on bottom. then add carpet adhesive and carpet, then stable the carpet to the bottom of the bunks

[moombadaze]

David, think I remember your not supposed to wrap the carpet all the way under, something about letting it dry so the wood wont rot.

Last year I found I was missing a lag screw and about 1/2 were loose and some were allmost all the way out. I removed them all one by one and added liquid nails and reinstalled them all. Need to check them all soon before hauling long distance again

[rdlangston13]

David, think I remember your not supposed to wrap the carpet all the way under, something about letting it dry so the wood wont rot.

Last year I found I was missing a lag screw and about 1/2 were loose and some were allmost all the way out. I removed them all one by one and added liquid nails and reinstalled them all. Need to check them all soon before hauling long distance again

that is interesting because i assume the ones on the trailer now were the factory ones and they are wrapper all the way around. its not a big deal for me to not enclose it, i can leave a 2 inch slip or so on the bottom for the water to drain and allow air for drying.

i was told about some kind of plastic sythentic wood you can use that never rots but i dont remember what it was called and did not see anything like that at home depot

[pprior]

Don't worry to much. Every time before you tow take a look at the inside and outside of the wheel and see if any oil has leaked out-it will leave a shiny trail down and puddle slightly on the rim lip-if no leak you should be good to go. If you see any, get the seals replaced pronto.

Old thread, I know, but this is good advice.

I had smoking pouring out of one of my axles this summer, rim was glowing a bit (had no idea towing it, just smelled it when I got home) Had to replace the axle. Boat is 2009, no help from boatmate. Was into it $1000 all said and done.

I have since read of a lot of failures on these sealed boatmate bearings. I'm not a fan, but it's what I have at this point. If you do see any shiny stuff coming out, I would highly recommend you get it looked at. They also have some special fancy grease and you can't use anything else. It can take days to get it.