Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Bay City, MI
    Posts
    52

    Default Wiring Wakemakers Gravity III Upgrade to Factory Switches

    I know some of you have done the upgrade from Wakemakers, and it says right on their site that it doesn't include instructions for how to wire to the factory switches. I know that the upgrade kit comes with pre-wired connectors, but I have some questions around that.

    1) What is the best way to route the electrical from the pumps to the switches? (I plan to put all three pumps right under the ski pole.)

    2) How do I get power from the battery? Is there a fuse block under the helm I can tap into? (Boat is in storage, so I can't look.)

    3) It doesn't look like the kit comes with fuses. Do I need to put in-line fuses in? From what I've read, I will need 25's.

    Pictures would be very helpful if anyone has them or can take them. I appreciate any advice anyone has!
    2008 Mobius LSV
    Wakemakers Gravity III ballast Upgrade
    Wakeboard prop
    2 Wetsounds Pro 80's, 2 Wetsounds MB8's

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    1,609

    Default Re: Wiring Wakemakers Gravity III Upgrade to Factory Switches

    How many batteries do you have and where are they?
    2002 Moomba Mobius LSV - Sold
    2006 Moomba Mobius LSV

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Bay City, MI
    Posts
    52

    Default Wiring Wakemakers Gravity III Upgrade to Factory Switches

    2 batteries and a Perko switch. Located under the passenger (port) seat where most are.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2008 Mobius LSV
    Wakemakers Gravity III ballast Upgrade
    Wakeboard prop
    2 Wetsounds Pro 80's, 2 Wetsounds MB8's

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    1,609

    Default

    1. Depends, if you're pulling up the floor to add a new hose then use the floor channel. The easiest is to run the wires in the wiring chase, along the drivers side. If you look towards the rear from underneath the helm near the sidewall you'll see what I'm talking about. Just follow the existing wires and ziptie them out of the way.

    2. Each pump uses 15-20 amp on startup, the OEM system can't handle that. You need to install a new fuse block, depending on where you batteries is/are this can be easy/hard. You may already have a separate fuse box under the helm, it should have a large 10 gauge or so supply. I had to run a 10 gauge wire from my battery in the storage area under the floor into the helm. My second boat this was already there..

    Fuse block, fuse holder, fuse.
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    My older setup:
    http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/showt...hlight=ballast

    3. Buy breakers instead of fuses, these reset after they cool, otherwise you'll be replacing fuses all the time. The fuse box cover doesn't fit with the breaker.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    4. Switch location, I moved the key start to the other side and used that are for the ballast switches.
    http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/showt...hlight=ballast
    2002 Moomba Mobius LSV - Sold
    2006 Moomba Mobius LSV

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    1,609

    Default

    Instead of the 100amp fuse, this is much better. My 06 has this, not sure if thats standard or someone added it.

    http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...+Surface+Mount
    2002 Moomba Mobius LSV - Sold
    2006 Moomba Mobius LSV

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Salt Lake City, Utah
    Posts
    584

    Default

    Ok, so I literally just finished this project on Saturday. It is a lot to do but not too bad. You can either run the wiring from the pumps to the switches 2 ways. You can run them over the gas tank (once the floor is pulled up) where the old wiring is. It comes up under the dash where most of the dash wiring is. The other option is to run the wires from the pump to the starboard side of the boat and then up the side behind the seats to the switches. That is what I did. It was much easier to do that than try and fish the wires up through the hole under the dash.

    I ran the wires from the battery to the switches through the ski locker and up under the dash and to the switches. If you can get your head in the ski locker (which isn't too easy) you can see that there are a lot of wires the go from the port side to the starboard side through the ski locker. I just followed those wires. They come up through the hole under the dash and then run them to the switches. You will have 2 wires going to each switch, one from the pump and one from the battery. Unplug the old wiring from in back of the switches and put the connectors on and then wire them up. Pretty easy. Spencer suggested not going through a fuse block, just run the wires straight from the battery to the switches.

    they do provide 3 in-line fuses to connect to the positive coming from the battery and they are 30amp fuses. I asked Spencer at Wakemakers were the best place to put them is and he suggested to connect one side right to the battery terminal. The closer to the battery the better is what he said.

    I took some pictures and was going to post them up here soon. Let me know if you have any other questions, happy to help.
    Scott
    2007 Mobius LSV with a lot of great upgrades and mods

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    1,609

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 996scott View Post
    Ok, so I literally just finished this project on Saturday. It is a lot to do but not too bad. You can either run the wiring from the pumps to the switches 2 ways. You can run them over the gas tank (once the floor is pulled up) where the old wiring is. It comes up under the dash where most of the dash wiring is. The other option is to run the wires from the pump to the starboard side of the boat and then up the side behind the seats to the switches. That is what I did. It was much easier to do that than try and fish the wires up through the hole under the dash.

    I ran the wires from the battery to the switches through the ski locker and up under the dash and to the switches. If you can get your head in the ski locker (which isn't too easy) you can see that there are a lot of wires the go from the port side to the starboard side through the ski locker. I just followed those wires. They come up through the hole under the dash and then run them to the switches. You will have 2 wires going to each switch, one from the pump and one from the battery. Unplug the old wiring from in back of the switches and put the connectors on and then wire them up. Pretty easy. Spencer suggested not going through a fuse block, just run the wires straight from the battery to the switches.

    they do provide 3 in-line fuses to connect to the positive coming from the battery and they are 30amp fuses. I asked Spencer at Wakemakers were the best place to put them is and he suggested to connect one side right to the battery terminal. The closer to the battery the better is what he said.

    I took some pictures and was going to post them up here soon. Let me know if you have any other questions, happy to help.
    Using the fuse block is a cleaner and safer install, not to mention once you start up grading you'll be glad you'll have the extra fuse box for other mods. Both will work, but once you get the modding bug you're not going to stop......

    Make sure work out how you fasten those wires down to the battery so they stay put, In my boat a ton of crap gets thrown in there and I've ripped off amp wires connected like that. You then get the fun job of pulling everything out and climbing back into that hole to fix it, usually with all the screaming family & friends.. lol..
    2002 Moomba Mobius LSV - Sold
    2006 Moomba Mobius LSV

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Bay City, MI
    Posts
    52

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by parrothd View Post
    1. Depends, if you're pulling up the floor to add a new hose then use the floor channel. The easiest is to run the wires in the wiring chase, along the drivers side. If you look towards the rear from underneath the helm near the sidewall you'll see what I'm talking about. Just follow the existing wires and ziptie them out of the way.

    2. Each pump uses 15-20 amp on startup, the OEM system can't handle that. You need to install a new fuse block, depending on where you batteries is/are this can be easy/hard. You may already have a separate fuse box under the helm, it should have a large 10 gauge or so supply. I had to run a 10 gauge wire from my battery in the storage area under the floor into the helm. My second boat this was already there..

    Fuse block, fuse holder, fuse.
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    My older setup:
    http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/showt...hlight=ballast

    3. Buy breakers instead of fuses, these reset after they cool, otherwise you'll be replacing fuses all the time. The fuse box cover doesn't fit with the breaker.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    4. Switch location, I moved the key start to the other side and used that are for the ballast switches.
    http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/showt...hlight=ballast
    Thanks, parrothd. I want to make sure I understand how this all works. Forgive my ignorance.

    The fuse holder and fuse (terminal fuse block & fuse) go right on the battery post. Then, run 10 gauge wire from there to the block under the helm. Then, use the breakers instead of the fuses in the fuse block.

    I like this option. Much cleaner. Should I buy two of the 100 amp fuses to have a spare in the boat? Or are the chances of that blowing slim to none since I'll have 3 30 amp breakers in the fuse block and that is it?

    Thanks for all the help!
    2008 Mobius LSV
    Wakemakers Gravity III ballast Upgrade
    Wakeboard prop
    2 Wetsounds Pro 80's, 2 Wetsounds MB8's

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    1,609

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by boarder3304 View Post
    Thanks, parrothd. I want to make sure I understand how this all works. Forgive my ignorance.

    The fuse holder and fuse (terminal fuse block & fuse) go right on the battery post. Then, run 10 gauge wire from there to the block under the helm. Then, use the breakers instead of the fuses in the fuse block.

    I like this option. Much cleaner. Should I buy two of the 100 amp fuses to have a spare in the boat? Or are the chances of that blowing slim to none since I'll have 3 30 amp breakers in the fuse block and that is it?

    Thanks for all the help!
    Yep, except if you have the budget, buy the 100 Amp breaker instead of the 100 amp fuse and fuse holder. You can reset that one as well..

    http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...+Surface+Mount

    Battery > short 10 gauge > 100 breaker> 10 gauge to under helm > fuse block > 25 amp breakers.

    From the fuse block to the + on the switches...
    2002 Moomba Mobius LSV - Sold
    2006 Moomba Mobius LSV

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    1,609

    Default Re: Wiring Wakemakers Gravity III Upgrade to Factory Switches

    The previous owner installed the perko and 100amp breaker and a buss bar instead of a fuse block, the 25 amp breakers are longer than normal fuses. I used fuse adapters instead of replacing..
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2002 Moomba Mobius LSV - Sold
    2006 Moomba Mobius LSV

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •