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  1. #21
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    Dec 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by philwsailz View Post
    Something is amiss here guys-

    If your ignition cranking send wire, (ABYC and USCG yellow with red stripe) goes to +12 with the motor running, your starter will be cranking while the motor is running!

    If indeed you really go to 12v positive in gear, there is a starter interrupt relay somewhere between the ignition switch and the starter relay. Move your SI wire to either that relay's output to the starter solenoid, or take it directly to the positive lug of your starter as a means of last resort.


    I do agree the SI wire is likely not necessary on your boat(s) but there is a way to get the SI circuit working properly....

    Phil
    Kicker
    Phil,

    Thanks for chiming in. Yes, the yellow wire with red stripe really does go to 12V+ with the key in the ON position, the engine running, and the transmission in gear (forward or reverse). I verified this with a mutli meter and explains why the ACR will not combine when we are underway (and I get the blinking green LED).

    I might have to take your suggestion to connect the SI wire to the starter positive lug since that would be a lot easier than trying to find a relay under the dash due to my sub box taking up all the room under there.

    Thanks again.

    Al
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  2. #22
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    Dec 2006
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    Tigard, Oregon
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    Okay, thanks to Phil's post, I think I know why the yellow wire with red stripe at the ignition shows 12V when the transmission is in gear. Somehow, that 12V signal translates into why you can't start the engine if the transmission lever is in gear. So it's a built in safeguard that unfortunately makes it not the right place to hook up the ACR SI wire.

    So based on that, if we want to use the SI (starter isolation) feature of the ACR, we must connect the ACR SI wire directly to the post on the starter solenoid where the yellow wire with red stripe is connected. You might be able to find the starter interrupt relay that Phil referred to in his post somewhere under the dash but my heater tubes and sub box are in the way so I can't see it, if it's there somewhere. So for me, it's easier to run the wire to the starter solenoid.

    Below is a pic of the solenoid. You'll want to connect the ACR SI wire to the small post at about the 2 o'clock position on the pic. It's the post with one small gauge wire attached to it, the one with the black heatshrink with yellow stripes. That is the other end of the yellow wire with red stripe from the ignition switch.

    I will try this out this week and will report back once I get on the water again and have had a chance to verify.

    Thanks,

    Al



    Below is a pic of the ACR showing the SI spade that you want to connect to.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Spokane, WA
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    488

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    Hmm, this is intersting, and a good find Al. I'll have to take a good look at this next time I'm out. I too have the SI wire hooked right to the back of the ignition switch. Whenever I've specifically looked at my ACR, I'm at idle. Never looked at it while underway. I am curious if this is maybe why it seems it's easy to drain my stereo battery. At least last year, three times out and the stereo battery was dead. If they are isolated while underway, it's just getting drained, and only charged when at idle, which isn't a whole lot of time. Since then I've had it on a charger after a day on the water.

    When I have looked at the ACR, I have a solid steady green LED. I assume this mean the batteries are combined??

    So, I am curious as well, is the SI circuit really needed?? I don't particulalry want to fish a wire (or pull the floor up) for something that isn't necessarily needed. I could however try to find that relay under that dash...
    08 LSV
    Go big, or go home.

  4. #24
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    Dec 2006
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    Tigard, Oregon
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    Quote Originally Posted by squeeg333 View Post
    Hmm, this is intersting, and a good find Al. I'll have to take a good look at this next time I'm out. I too have the SI wire hooked right to the back of the ignition switch. Whenever I've specifically looked at my ACR, I'm at idle. Never looked at it while underway. I am curious if this is maybe why it seems it's easy to drain my stereo battery. At least last year, three times out and the stereo battery was dead. If they are isolated while underway, it's just getting drained, and only charged when at idle, which isn't a whole lot of time. Since then I've had it on a charger after a day on the water.

    When I have looked at the ACR, I have a solid steady green LED. I assume this mean the batteries are combined??

    So, I am curious as well, is the SI circuit really needed?? I don't particulalry want to fish a wire (or pull the floor up) for something that isn't necessarily needed. I could however try to find that relay under that dash...
    Squeeg, sorry you are having issues. I feel responsible for this since I was the one that said where to connect the SI wire to. I ran all last summer without the SI wire connected so I did not have any issues. In fact, had I not run the remote LED to the dash and installed the Stinger voltage meter, I might not have noticed until my stereo started having issues.

    Yes, solid green means the batteries are combined. No light at all means the batteries are separated. Blinking green means it's trying to combine but cannot due to some pre-defined condition.

    Al

    Al
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  5. #25
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    Jul 2009
    Location
    Spokane, WA
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    No worries Al, it's not your fault. That is where I probably would have looked for it in the first place, and would have never thought to check it when it was in gear. I mean, I checked for voltage before I hooked everything up as well, so, reall, no worries.

    This would be great though if this is the reason why last year it seemed like I wasn't ever getting a charge, or much of a charge, on a brand new battery (stereo battery).

    And just to be clear, almost always the green light will be on - Unless there's an undervoltage lockout on right? I did get that once or twice last year - the undervoltage on one of my stereo battery.

    If I find the same issue, pending what you end up doing, I'll probably just pull the in-line fuse I have on the SI lead and call it good.
    08 LSV
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  6. #26
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    Dec 2006
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    Tigard, Oregon
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    Quote Originally Posted by squeeg333 View Post
    No worries Al, it's not your fault. That is where I probably would have looked for it in the first place, and would have never thought to check it when it was in gear.
    I actually discovered it by accident. We were slogging thru a long no wake zone and I noticed the green LED blinking again so with my son driving, I hooked up the multi meter (again) to the ignition switch and asked him to put it in neutral. Sure enough, it read 0 volts. We started drifting a little close to shore so he put it in gear and that's when I saw the multil meter jump up to 12V+. I had him put in neutral, then in forward, then neutral, then reverse several times and every time he put it in gear, it would show 12V+.

    Quote Originally Posted by squeeg333 View Post
    This would be great though if this is the reason why last year it seemed like I wasn't ever getting a charge, or much of a charge, on a brand new battery (stereo battery).
    If your boat is wired like mine, and I have to believe it is, then I'm almost positive this is it. Could you please confirm the next time you are out? And remember to wait at least two minutes for the ACR to combine from the time the engine is started.

    Quote Originally Posted by squeeg333 View Post
    And just to be clear, almost always the green light will be on - Unless there's an undervoltage lockout on right? I did get that once or twice last year - the undervoltage on one of my stereo battery.
    Any time one of the batteries is receiving charging voltage (13.0V for > 2 minutes), the ACR should combine (solid green LED). It will then isolate (no LED) after you have been sitting a while and one of the batteries falls below 12.75V for 30 seconds.

    It will blink under the following conditions and not combine:

    Undervoltage - one of the batteries is at 10.8V or less. Fast blink rate.
    Starting Isolation - positive voltage detected by SI wire. Slow blink rate.

    The ACR also will not combine if it senses charging voltage over 16.0 volts but it doesn't say in the literature whether or not the LED will blink.

    Quote Originally Posted by squeeg333 View Post
    If I find the same issue, pending what you end up doing, I'll probably just pull the in-line fuse I have on the SI lead and call it good.
    I will probably go ahead and run a wire to the solenoid just to confirm that my ACR is working properly.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  7. #27
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    Jul 2009
    Location
    Spokane, WA
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    Al, I will most certainly check it out next time I'm on the water to see how it reacts going into and out of gear. I can almost 100% guarantee that it'll do the exact same thing as you have described, since I can't imagine between 06 and 08 they changed the wiring... I believe that the wire we have tapped into is a standard color across all boats, at least that's what I gathered from one of Phil's remarks in an earlier post. It would make sense to have some standard wire markings for certain things on boats so troubleshooting them would be easier for mechanics...
    08 LSV
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  8. #28
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    Jul 2009
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    Spokane, WA
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    Al, I was out yesterday and double checked this. When the boat and running, and out of gear, the relay showed the batteries were combined - and when she went into gear, sure enough, the LED started blinking, indicating the SI circuit was closed. So, I pulled the in-line fuse that I have in the SI line from the starter to the relay, and it combined the batteries like it should, both in and out of gear.

    Thanks for catching this, and it makes sense now why I was having battery depletion problems last year as well. I couldn't figure it out - but since my stereo bettery was isolated and never getting a charge when the boat was in gear, it makes total sense!

    For now, I'll just leave the in-line fuse out, but sooner than later I'd like to try to find the right wire to use from the ignition switch - but it'll be a few weeks before I tackle that. Unless someone else out there can find it!!
    08 LSV
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  9. #29
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    Glad you got it squared away. There are only two other spades on the ignition switch, i checked them, and they both show +12V with the key in the run position so it's a no go.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  10. #30
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    Jul 2009
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    Spokane, WA
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    Well crap then! I know you asked the question before, but did you hear anything/find anything about leaving this circuit open all the time? I'm thinking of doing that in lieu of fishing a wire back to the starter.
    08 LSV
    Go big, or go home.

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