If those of you in the south are worried about the heat shutting down the amps, a couple of the JL lines have "rollback protection". It lowers the peak voltage when it gets to overheating temperatures in order to prevent complete shut off. I copied this from their website ...
"Should a G-Series amplifier ever overheat, its intelligent, unregulated power supply reacts by limiting available peak voltage until the amplifier returns to a safe temperature range. Likewise, if an impedance lower than optimal for the amplifier is present at the outputs, the G-Series amplifier will roll back peak voltage to protect itself without shutting down.
Benefit: The music just keeps on playing."
Results 11 to 20 of 110
Thread: Amps Over Heating
07-12-2011, 10:18 AM #112006 Supra 24SSV
07-12-2011, 02:49 PM #12
I can only speak for Texas and our 12 years of having a dedicated marine division. Regardless of brand, a 1.33 ohm load isn't going to cut it here during July and August because its possible for the port locker to reach 140 degrees, and black gelcoat (if you have it) isn't doing you any favors. Add to that the fact that a Class AB can generate four times the heat at a similar current draw and you have decreased the lower efficiency further as you have dropped the impedance. You can fan cool the ampifier to death but its still generating an inordinate amount of heat at its core and that is unhealthy. Its kind of like treating high blood pressure with medication so that you still eat the wrong foods and never exercise. Sorry, but its wrong to only treat the symtom and not the root cause. If you have a 'hybrid' in Texas you better split it up into two amplifiers. Also, keep in mind that efficiency affects voltage and low voltage compounds thermal issues. So if you want to play big you better have serious battery reserves, a REAL shore charger and possibly an upgrade alternator.
As for the HD600/4, early production models were a little sensitive to the remote turn-on voltage falling off which happens out on the lake. JL Audio has a revision for this. Also, because its strictly regulated it pulls more current to offset a decline in voltage so that the output power doesn't drop. An unregulated amplifier will stay on longer and just produce less and less power as the voltage drops where as a strictly regulated amplifier must have a more aggressive protection circuit and will shut down at a higher voltage threshold.
07-12-2011, 03:03 PM #13
No to highjack, but your description is pretty much spot on with my build and experience thus far with the system so far David. As far as my Exile Hybrid, I think another 800.4 is in the works to split the load from the Harpoon. Not to mention, my battery bank is now up to 345 a/h dedicated stereo with 2 quality shore chargers to charge the 4 total batteries. I will be running like this through the summer and plan on either a dbelectrical H/O alternator, or seeing what I can have my factory built to and still have it reliable. I'm all about fixing the problem at the source, and hopefully am taking the right steps!
I would imagine up in the Northern parts of the country, these Hybrid setups can run all day without issue, as my issues didn't start until the 100 degree days. Unfortunately, in Texas, once they are here, they stay, and I want to make everything as efficient as possible because I have absolutely loved all my equipment. Before the Texas heat set in, I had played two or three different occasions at the same level for 4+ hours with zero issues.
You are exactly right about the temperature in the compartment when playing extended times at a high volume. We actually talked about bringing a dual thermometer to watch the temp inside the cubby compared to outside just for fun.
Last edited by dusty2221; 07-12-2011 at 03:10 PM.06 Supra 24 Gravity Games
07-12-2011, 03:11 PM #14
Do you really need a thermometer when you open up the observer's seat and it singes your eyebrows and eyelashes? Just kidding, but you can usually feel the blast furnace when you intially open up the cushion. Its really the same as a black BMW with a solid rear bulkhead so that the trunk-mounted amplifiers get no relief from the cabin AC. Its often a major difference with a hatchback or SUV.
07-12-2011, 03:17 PM #15
We leave the hatch open, which makes the thermometer test that much more fun...to see how much the heat affects it even while open!06 Supra 24 Gravity Games
07-12-2011, 03:22 PM #16
07-12-2011, 08:40 PM #17-Mark
Tow w/: Volkswagen Touareg V8
Mods: Stereo, Stainless Cup Holders and Thru Hulls, Chrome Steering Wheel, EZ Nets, Moomba Etched Cleats
"Be more concerned with your character than your reputation, bc your character is what you really are, while your reputation is merely what others think you are."
07-13-2011, 10:42 AM #18
Pimped 08'LSV and we surf!http://moomba.com/msgboard/showthrea...highlight=surf
07-13-2011, 10:44 AM #19
Lol. You got me there bud.06 Supra 24 Gravity Games
07-13-2011, 11:51 AM #202011 Mobius LSV 325HP EFI
Digital Cruise Pro, Wakeplate, Kenwood KM550U and KCA-RC107MR x2, Kicker ZXM700.5, Kicker 6.5 Cabins, 10'' Kicker CompVT sub, Wetsounds SYN 4, Wetsounds REV10s, Wetsounds WS420, Gravity VI Surf Ballast, Acme 537
Board: '11 Ronix District 143
Her Board: '11 Ronix Krush 128
Kids Board: '13 Ronix Vision 120
Skate: Liquid Force Faction 44
Surf: Broadcast & XXX
2011 Toyota Tundra CrewMax TRD Magnetic Grey
3/1 Truxx Lift, and some other stuff...