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Thread: Trailering Boat help required
07-19-2011, 03:39 PM #11
How are the new bunks holding up RD?At the time it seemed like a good idea...
07-19-2011, 05:27 PM #12
they seem to be doing a superb job however i have not really inspected them that much with the boat off. i kind of assumed that my design is going to work perfect and therefore have kind of ignored them haha. i will give them a good look next time i go out in a couple weeks and give an updateDavid
2008 Mobius LSV, Gravity III , Wake Plate, Z5, Exile SX65c's, Exile XM9s, Exile XI12D, Exile Harpoon, Exile SM600.1 , Exile Xi800.4.
08-27-2011, 11:38 PM #13
Finally got it figured out. Boat slides in trailer bunk just fine now. Trailer hitch has 2 positions, up 2 inches and down 2 inches. I flipped the hitch over to the "down 2 inches" position. This allows the front of the trailer to sit lower in the water, just enough for the front mount to clear the rub rail. However this was just one boat launch. I guess, depending on the angle of the boat launch, I may or may not have problems with different launch areas.
Thank you everyone for the input.past---------------2003 Outback SOLD
present------------2006 Supra Launch 21V
possible future-----2013 Mojo
08-28-2011, 01:35 AM #14
Thats cool that it was an easy(free) fix! Our hull is different but we have always done the 1" under the water thing and the I just compensate with the winch. I do back the trailer in deep to get it wet first as others on here have said. With our new tow rig that sits higher than my old truck in the back actually made putting the boat on easier for some reason... Not sure why, but I didn't want to mess it up trying to figure it out.
2008 MOBIUS LSV - Acme 1847, GIII w/1100lbs Vdrive, IBS, PPSG, Wake plate, Z-5, Kenwood 700U, Kenwood Kca-RC107MR , Exile SXT65, Kicker 700.5, Kicker 350.4, Polk MM651, JL 13.5 Thin-Line Sub.
08-28-2011, 11:03 AM #15
The guideline I use is I back the trailer in until only about 1' of the front most bunks are above the water. I also drift it in and down power on. I then use the winch to get in the rest of the way but if there is too much resistance at the winch, I will back the trailer in another foot or so to make it easier to winch up and save wear and tear on the winch.Al
2006 Mobius LSV
08-28-2011, 11:57 AM #16
08-31-2011, 11:19 AM #17
Hey rsinger. every year I cut off the hook and about 6" of my strap. It does get dried out and weak so i change mine yearly. Its a quick 1-hr change and I have somone resew it for my so the strap is fresh and strong again. Jet89' Comp Resto:
Riding and Mod pic's:
89' Supra/Custom Tower & Interior/Swivel Racks
4 Blade-14X14/1600 lbs Ballast
Roswell Bar/Led's/Krypt 6.5 HLCD's/Krypt 4200 Eq
JL-PPI Amps 1750 Watts/Kicker Interiors/L7 Kicker Sub
08-31-2011, 03:49 PM #18Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2008
- Eugene OR
One thing i do is back the trailer all the way in the water so all the bunks get wet. Pull out a bit so that the water level is where i want it depending on the ramp. load the boat and go. now for a shollow ramp i put some soap (eco friendly) on the bunks before i leave the trailer for the day. Do the same thing as above. This allows the boat to slide on the bunks and also gives it a little scrub to help the cleanning process.2008 Outback V - Sold but never forgotten.
“Do not wait; the time will never be “just right.” Start where you stand, and work with whatever tools you may have at your command, and better tools will be found as you go along." -Napoleon Hill
09-06-2011, 05:59 PM #19
I put the fenders just under water at our ramp and that allows me to get the nose ring within 3 feet of the stop. Then all i have to do is put it in gear and it slides on the rest of the way until about 6" from the stop then i winch. and no clearance issues with my 1235 prop either...2014 Mondo with da flow!!! Exile towers, stock everything else.... for now!