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Thread: prop advice

  1. #1

    Default prop advice

    I planned to research the vast info on this topic already posted but havent figured out how to search the archives since the crash?

    I recently grounded my prop and caused actually minimal damage although there is a 1" tear in it. My plan was to get it repaired. It is a 4 blade, and I have since determined it is a Michigan Prop 13L13L NiBral model #635101. Came with the boat when I got it used. I was wondering if I should consider just getting a new one as my research has indicated Michigan not quite the quality of an ACME or OJ? Or at least they dont use the CNC process (whatever that is) that is apparently preferred? And also with this group buy deal ending the 20th. Can anybody say whether this prop is worth repairing or should I spend the money on a new one?

    And if so I'd appreciate opinions on 3 vs 4 blade, ACME vs OJ, pitch etc if you know. Boat is an 05 Outback direct drive; we both ski and board recreationally and I dont currently use any ballast as we're really not at the ability where we care about a huge wake. I really just want a reliable good smooth performing all around prop most apropriate for the boat. The only change I may make is I am somewhat considering wake surfing though I have never done it, and if so wont do anything towards that until next year or later and would probably use minimal ballast at that point.

    If the Michigan prop is worth repairing I may pick up a 3 blade as a spare with the group buy too good to pass up. Any experiences and advice is appreciated. Thanks.


    2005 Outback Direct Drive

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Clermont, Fl
    Posts
    104

    Default

    Speaking as one who once owned a 2003 Moomba Outback DD boat...

    If your primarily a skier, I would go with a 3 blade prop. You can still configure your boat for surfin' or boardin'

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    south east michigan
    Posts
    241

    Default

    I have an 03 Outback LS. We primarily ski,and tube. I tried a 4 blade and didn't like it.had a little better holeshot(not that I needed it),lost some top end,and had a slight vibration.Went back to my 13 by 13 3 blade.JMO
    jy

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Durham, NC
    Posts
    641

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    Even if you get a new one, I would still get that one repaired. It should only be $50 to $100 and that way you will have a back up. Also, I have an OJ 13x13 4 blade cast prop and it does fine, and we run 1000# ballast wakeboarding and 1500# wakesurfing, yet we can still run ski speeds with no problem. The CNC (Computer Numeric Control) props are a type of prop called that because of the way they are manufactured. These props are cut with a fancy computer router basically. They do cost more. The traditional ones are cast in a mold. The CNC ones are supposed to be more precise and accurate, but for recreation use, I am not sure it is worth the extra money. The factory prop on my boat was a cast NiBrAl (Nickel, Brass, Aluminum alloy) 3 blade 13x13 and it worked just fine. I tore one of the blades up so I bought a new one.
    Brian Roberts
    2001 Outback DD

  5. #5

    Default

    The ACME 541, which is a 3 blade, 13X12 I believe, seems to be the recommended prop after several inquiries. Indications are it will perform better on my boat than a 4-blade even at the low end. There is a member with an '07 who I think got the same prop and was very happy with it, so I think thats what I'll go with. And yea, I think I probably will get the old one fixed as a spare when I get around to it.

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