So I finally finished my Johnson Reversible Pump Ballast Upgrade from GIII on my 2008 LSV. I had previously followed Fman’s Tsunami upgrade and it just didn’t work well for me. I know it can be done well as others here have, but I just couldn’t get it right. This is also my first attempt at a “How To” thread so please bear with me and let me know what I could do to make it better for next time. (Newty I kinda used some of your threads as a template, hope you don’t mind.)
Jester’s – “GI to GIII with reversible pumps, 08 OBV”
My thread to ask questions from our great and knowledgeable members. – “Reversible ballast pump locations on '09 or newer LSV?”
And of course Jason at Wakemakers.com
Parts I ordered from Wakemakers.com:
4 – Johnson Ultra Ballast Reversible Pumps
3 – 1” Bronze Thru-Hull Intakes
1 – ¾” Stainless Steel Barbed Thru-Hull (For the new IBS vent)
3 – 1” Bronze Ball Valves
3 – 1” Thread x 1” Hose Barb Fittings
1 – ¾” Thread x 1” Hose Barb Fitting (Goes into the ¾” Ball valve that came stock on my boat as I am reusing it.)
4 – Fly High 1” Flow-Rite Quick Release Connect W743
4 – Fly High 1” Elbow Flow-Rite Quick Release Connectors W746
Plugs for the unused drain holes in you bags.
50ft – 1” Ballast Hose Black
14 - 1” Stainless Steel Hose Clamp (Just buy them from Lowe’s or wherever. The ones from Wakemakers broke with the slightest pressure applied to tighten them.)
15ft – ¾” Ballast Hose Black (Bought this but didn’t need it, as the ¾” thread to 1” barb worked great.)
90ft – 12 Gauge 2 Conductor Marine Pump Wire
8 – 12 Gauge Crimp Butt Connector (Order a few extra, if you mess one up you’ll have to go get another one.)
21 – 12 Gauge Female Crimp Terminal (Order a few extra also.)
1 – Extra Ballast Switch
Parts I got From Lowe’s, Radio Shack, Fry’s and West Marine:
16 - Stainless Steel Hose Clamps.
16 – Stainless Steel Round head bolts, washers, lock washers, wing nuts and nylon lock nuts. I cannot remember the sizes, just take the rubber vibration mounts and inserts that come with the pumps to Lowe’s and get ones that fit tight and are about 2” long.
25ft Roll - 14 Gauge Red Wire (Power)
25ft Roll – 14 Gauge Black Wire (Ground)
1 – 14 Gauge Fused Red Wire (comes with 30 amp fuse, but you need 20amp.)
4 – 20amp Fuses
Various sizes of heat shrink tubing for electrical connections. (Try to get the kind with adhesive lining, which is better protection for water exposure.)
Tools I used:
3/16” Drill bit to start the holes for the hole saw.
1 1/4" hole saw for the 1” Thru-hulls
1 1/8" hole saw for the ¾” Barbed Thru-hull used for the new vent in the starboard side of the boat.
Blue Painters Tape
Dremel Tool with a small tube-style sanding bit. (Used this to feather the holes in the hull and protect the gel coat.)
5/16” Nut Driver
Wire Cutters & Crimpers
Razor knife to cut the ballast tubing.
Cresent Wrench (12”)
Needle Nose Vice grips (I used these to hold the new intakes from inside while it was being tightened. Some people have used wrench handles and other things.)
Beer is optional…. I did it stone cold sober… Was wishing I had some beer…
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09-12-2011, 02:54 AM #1
'08 LSV GIII upgrade to Johnson Pumps2008 MOBIUS LSV - Acme 1847, GIII w/1100lbs Vdrive, IBS, PPSG, Wake plate, Z-5, Kenwood 700U, Kenwood Kca-RC107MR , Exile SXT65, Kicker 700.5, Kicker 350.4, Polk MM651, JL 13.5 Thin-Line Sub.